Tires, Valves & Oil

[deancox]

Well at least tires and oil have been beat to death here and elswhere....

I went to replace my Michelin Macadams today only to be told that they have been replaced by the Pilot.....OK, so give me the Pilots then.....no, they are on back order everywhere in the US...(hard to believe)....finally settled for the Metzler Lasertecs...we'll see how they do - I hope I am not disappointed.

I have an 89 K75C approaching 75K miles...I have put on 40K of them, the bike runs flawlessly....when should I have the valves adjusted....is this a "shop only" procedure or can I buy the Clymer's book and do it myself? What is the best indicator of need....simply mileage?

Who was the "genius" who decided to use an oil sight glass rather than a dipstick in some form? It is a very difficult way to see oil levels, especially when the oil is new and clean. Any suggestion on getting better oil level reads? Should I try to polish the window in order to see the levels more easily?

[stkmkt1]

I have mixed emotions regarding the site glass. My GSA also has one. The biggest problem I see with it is that about 99% of the people don't understand how to use it. It really is quite simple. But you do have to get down on your knees to check it. But I have no problem reading it even with brand new oil.

I could really get people excited and tell them that BMW has had so much luck with the fuel strips that they are now adopting that technology for oil level monitoring and that site glasses will soon be a thing of the past. Just kidding.

Just check your oil AFTER you have been out riding, not before. Their are those who will tell you different, but I have spoke with my dealer and he confirms that the best time to check oil is after the ride, engine is a FULL operating temperature. Just let it sit on side stand for a few minutes if you have an oil cooler. Then put on level ground and on center stand. IF you have problems seeing the oil level, once down on your knees, grab the handlebars and carefully rock the bike a bit. You'll see the oil level.

[deancox]

Yeah, I do all that ....but it is still hard to read.

[bikerfish1100]

if your sight glass is dark/cloudy & hard to read, and it is the original with 70+K miles on it... just change it out. difficult to see through can be a precursor stage for "gonna take myself for a short flight, and leave you stranded". it seems that Ks are a bit less susceptible to sight glass ejection than oilheads, but i'd still swap it out. easy job, about $25 for the sight glass.
valve adjustment on a 2 valve K bike is piece-of-cake easy.. once you have the 2 tools, feeler gauges, and a source for spare shims. i would usually measure mine, see if i could do some swapping between existing shims and those i needed, and then go to my dealer to buy what was still needed. cost of the tool will be paid for with your first adjustment, after that it is only time and shims.

it's fine to check a K bike's oil level with the motor stone cold. No oil cooler to trap any quantity of oil (the reason you have to do an oil or hexhead when warm, and after doing the "let-it-sit-on the-sidestand-then-up-on-the-center-stand" dance with it). fill to about halfway between the dot and the circle top. DO NOT overfill. as long as you can see oil, you are safe... don't so need to freak out on the road if it drops a bit low.
FWIW, neither of my K75s ever burned a drop of oil- ever (well, except for when i activated the mosquito fogging attachment:laugh). put it in, then take out the exact same amount at the oil change with a new filter & ride it.

[PHMarvin]

Hi, Dean,
You can check your valve clearances with just a feeler gauge. If any need adjusting, you need 2 tools to depress the valve spring and then hold it in place while removing and installing the shim. The tools can be obtained at your dealer for (last time I heard) around $180, or a perfectly good substitute can be obtained from Ken Lively for under $30. I don't have his e-mail address but it had "polepenhollow" in it.

Be careful of the valve cover gaskets and half moons. Murphy's Law says if you remove the valve cover and don't have new gaskets, you WILL need new ones. You can, probably, clean off the old sealer and reuse the old ones - probably! Sealer needs to be used around the half moons and at the junction of the head and the timing cover.

Be careful when you replace the valve cover. The bolts are shouldered. Once the shoulder is down, tightening any more does no good. The grommets and the valve cover gasket seal well with the bolts snug. If you do tighten them with two grunts and a fart as your torque reading and strip one or more, remember they bolt into the cam bearing blocks. These are line bored and not individually replaceable. If one cannot be helicoiled, it is new head time. Be forewarned.

[deancox]

Hi, Dean,
You can check your valve clearances with just a feeler gauge. If any need adjusting, you need 2 tools to depress the valve spring and then hold it in place while removing and installing the shim. The tools can be obtained at your dealer for (last time I heard) around $180, or a perfectly good substitute can be obtained from Ken Lively for under $30. I don't have his e-mail address but it had "polepenhollow" in it.

Be careful of the valve cover gaskets and half moons. Murphy's Law says if you remove the valve cover and don't have new gaskets, you WILL need new ones. You can, probably, clean off the old sealer and reuse the old ones - probably! Sealer needs to be used around the half moons and at the junction of the head and the timing cover.

Be careful when you replace the valve cover. The bolts are shouldered. Once the shoulder is down, tightening any more does no good. The grommets and the valve cover gasket seal well with the bolts snug. If you do tighten them with two grunts and a fart as your torque reading and strip one or more, remember they bolt into the cam bearing blocks. These are line bored and not individually replaceable. If one cannot be helicoiled, it is new head time. Be forewarned.

Excellent, practical advice.....s'what I love about this forum. THANKS!

[98lee]

An e-mail from a couple years ago:




Hi Lee
Yes, I have BMW "K" engine Valve Adj tools available for the 2 valve "K" engine.
The 2 Pieces are made from 3/16” Laser cut steel. Working contours are identical to factory tools. Tools are new. Tools come w/ instruction sheet.
$27 S/H included.
Clutch pilots for K's are available also. New, from steel
$18 S/H included.
“Pay Pal” to Polepenhollow, Cashiers Checks, Money Orders and Personal Checks accepted.
I ship as soon as Pay Pal is posted or the check arrives.

Thanks, Good Luck and Good Riding.
Kenneth Lively
318 S Hart St
Palatine Il 60067

polepenhollow@yahoo.com
847-561-8555




:dance:dance:dance

[PHMarvin]

I went to replace my Michelin Macadams today only to be told that they have been replaced by the Pilot.....OK, so give me the Pilots then.....no, they are on back order everywhere in the US...(hard to believe)....finally settled for the Metzler Lasertecs...we'll see how they do - I hope I am not disappointed.


Who was the "genius" who decided to use an oil sight glass rather than a dipstick in some form? It is a very difficult way to see oil levels, especially when the oil is new and clean. Any suggestion on getting better oil level reads? Should I try to polish the window in order to see the levels more easily?

Hi again, Dean,
I have 3 K75's, but I believe the (at least) rear tire is different from yours. Mine all have 17" rears and 18" fronts; if yours, being an '87, has a rear drum brake, I think yours has an 18" rear wheel. I just ordered and received 2 front (100/90V18) Michelin Macadam 50E and 3 rear (130/90v17) Michelin Macadam 50 tires from www.motorcycle-superstore.com. The fronts were $82.99 and the rears $100.99 with no charge for shipping. If your order is $75 or more, there is no shipping charge.

The oil sight glass is a PITA when it is old, cloudy and/or dirty. It is easy to change. Remember, it is nothing more than a seal with clear plastic in it. You can drive a screwdriver through the plastic or drill through the plastic (be aware of the swarf, though) or heat a pointed rod and melt a hole in the plastic. Then lever out the old sight glass, being careful not to scratch the sealing surface, then drive in the new sight glass using a suitably sized socket. It is now good for the next 70k miles. I carry an extra sight glass with me on trips. They have been known to pop out (mostly from R1100 bikes), and it's comforting to have one instead of an immobile bike! I also carry an extra oil filler cap and "O" ring in case I forget to replace it and discover it down the road! Of course, this never happens with K75's because they never use oil:). On mine, it's true; they don't. My first K1100LT did use oil and I got into the habit of carrying the extra cap. Old habits die hard.