won't idle cold on enricher (choke) at start up.

[Boxwrench]

When I start my RT up cold I hold the enricher all the way.
However If I let it go to snap back to the normal detent the bike rpm drops to 850-900 rpm, runs for a few moments and quits.

Until it get the least bit warm it will not stay running unless I hold the enricher all the way or use the throttle.
Once warm w/ at least 1 bar showing it idles at 1100 rpm and I can set the enricher back to off.
What's wrong?


My Zuki has it's own warm up cycle and all I need to do it hit the start button.

[jcridge]

Is this something that just started? If so, look for cable adjustment or air leak ( rubber caps on bottom of T/B) Bad fuel.

If it has beengetting worse, then a proper tune maybe in order. Pay attention to the T/B adjustments and replacing the fuel filter. A can of Seafoam will clear-up dirty injector nozzles and carbon on the back of the valves.

My wife's 1100 did the same thing when we purchased it. We went through the fuel system and synchronized the T/B, it doesn't surge, smooth roll-on , good idle and no vibration (to speak of).

Enjoy,

John

[John Brase]

The enrichener/choke is really only a high idle stop (even though BMW puts a picture of a choke on the lever). The actual mixture is controlled by the computer.

It sounds like you need to adjust the cable to get the cold revs up a little bit. Of course a full TB sync would also be a good idea so you don't just mask a problem.

John

[MotorradMike]

I agree with what John(jcridge) said except for the fuel filter. IMO a clogged filter would still be trouble after warmup, and worse at speed.

I'd add a valve adjustment.

Also, be aware that the cold start lever doesn't do any enriching or choking. It simply increases throttle as though you were twisting and holding just a bit.

My 2 cents.

[mweiland2]

Had the same issue on my 1999 RT that I purchased in November of last year. It turned out to be a stretched cable that had no more adjustment left in it. I felt that the dealer should have caught this before the bike was put on the lot (I've only ridden it 5K miles) but I had it replaced when doing my 54K service. Now it works perfectly. I've found I only have it half way open to get a good 1500 rpm idle. I hope this helps.
Mark

[Boxwrench]

thanks for the replies. Lots to think about now.
Don't know 100% if the the bike had 14.7k when I bought it several months ago or 114.7K.
I do know that the BMW dealer checked it's VIN and it came out of Missouri.
Don't look like it has 114k
meebbe after 9 years the cable did stretch.
Problem started shortly after owning it.
If it is the cable hope the cable ain't too expensive.

[mweiland2]

I just looked at my repair bill and here are the prices:
Choke Cable was 38.49
Labor was 245.43
I was told shortly there after that BMW stands for "Bring My Wallet" as you have to remove the fairing to get into the junction box. I've ordered Jim Baden's DVD on R1100/1150 maintenance to determine what I can do and what I should farm out to others.
I hope, for your pocket book's shape, that it is just an adjustment. By the way how many miles do you have since your last 6K or 12K service. My bike really started telling me that it was time for a valve adjustment, sychronizing of the carbs, and the rest of the stuff that you do at those intervals.
It ran just like a top as I took it to California right after my service.
Take care!

[JimMoore]

That problem will also occur if you have too much slack in your lower throttle cables. In that case, the fast idle lever only takes up the slack. It doesn't open the throttle bodies. That's pretty easy to fix with a throttle body synch.

[Boxwrench]

I just bought a twinmax, feelers on the way.
Plan on doing syc, brakes and I guess now investigste the cable when the guages come.
I do have a cylmers and did order that DVD.

[jlaban]

Read your Clymers when it arrives. Adjusting the choke cable is about the simplest mechanical thing you can do. Just pull back the rubber boot at the choke switch, loosen the stop nut and turn the adjusting knob to set the idle at 1500± when the choke is at the low choke indent.

John

[mneblett]

Read your Clymers when it arrives. Adjusting the choke cable is about the simplest mechanical thing you can do. Just pull back the rubber boot at the choke switch, loosen the stop nut and turn the adjusting knob to set the idle at 1500± when the choke is at the low choke indent.

JohnThanks for posting this! The wife's '01 1150GS has always been on the ragged edge of running at the mid-detent position. I don't ride the bike much, so I never had the issue in mind long enough to try to figure out why the crappy cold idle. Your post made this a "no brainer." The bike now it holds a cold idle fine -- fixed a several year-old problem in under two minutes. :thumb