Oil filler cap just spins

[gharlow]

I went to add oil to my 2004 r1150rt, and the oil filler cap just spun. Cap appears to be aftermarket; might be a Moto-Techniques part. It's the first time I've needed to add oil, but the oil has been changed at the dealer twice in the year that I've owned the bike.

I'm guessing I need to pull the valve cover, but I'm not sure what I'll need to do after that. Re-tighten the set screws? Press the damn thing out and install a new one? Any and all advice is appreciated, as I have zero experience working on this bike.

Thanks,

Geoff

[RTs4me]

It looks like the Allen recess has rounded off. You might be able to remove it by jamming a slightly-oversize Torx bit into it and turning it whilst pushing down into the valve cover. The cap is not threaded - it's a bayonet-type fitting.

[DrPaul]

This does appear to be the Moto-Techniques oil filler cap assembly. The cap screws into a ring mounted inside the valve cover which is retained by two set screws. These have probably backed out a bit, allowing the ring to spin within the valve cover. The following is from their website:

START THE SET SCREWS IN THE INSIDE (THREADED) PART OF THE NEW INSERT. THIS WILL MAKE IT EASIER TO TIGHTEN THESE LATER. WE RECOMMEND THE USE OF LOW OR MEDIUM STRENGTH (BLUE) LOCTITE, EITHER NO. 222 OR 243 ON THE SETSCREWS. EVEN WITHOUT LOCTITE, WHEN PROPERLY INSTALLED, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE FOR THE SET SCREWS TO FALL INTO THE ENGINE AS THEY ARE "TRAPPED" BY THE THREADED PLUG WHEN SEATED. HOWEVER, IF THE SETSCREWS ARE NOT SUFFICIENTLY TIGHTENED AND/OR LOCTITE’D, IT IS POSSIBLE FOR THEM TO LOOSEN ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE INSERT TO ROTATE IN THE VALVE COVER.

You should be able to remove the valve cover, further loosen the set screws, remove the ring, clean everything up, reinstall with threadlocker. Complete installation instructions are on their webpage.

[flars]

In addition to what DrPaul says about the set screws, I also wrap the filler cap with teflon tape to keep it from sticking to the threads. Seems to help. I have trouble with the cap about once every other year.

[RTs4me]

Apologies - the OE cap is bayonet-type fitting. I wasn't aware that the Moto-Techniques cap was threaded.

[gharlow]

Thanks very much for the replies. I'll have at it on Sunday. And I will use teflon tape on the threads.

Geoff

[breyfogle]

Even with the valve cover removed at allow access from the bottom/inside, the set screws are blocked by the cap. You will have to find a way to loosen and remove the cap before you can tighten the set screws.

Just my opinion, but somebody severely over tightened the cap, judging from the hex key. It really only needs to be finger tight !

[Acejones]

Unless you park in a really rough neighborhood, I'd scrap it and just get the stock cap.

[kgadley01]

unless you park in a really rough neighborhood, i'd scrap it and just get the stock cap.

+1

[DPeakMD]

Mine did that once when it was put on too tight. I got it loose without taking the valve cover off. Here's how! Take a 7mm hex wrench which is L-shaped. Place it in the keyed hole with the long end of the hex key facing out towards you. Now, apply a slight bit of pressure downward on the key as you turn. The downward pressure may help the allen screws to bite on the insert. It might allow the screw to loosen.

I would still recommend taking the cover off and inspecting the installation. The Moto-Techniques instructions make pains to insure that the insert is inserted ALL the way into the hole during installation. It should be flush on the outside surface and actually sticking inward on the inside. I had to tap mine into the valve cover using an appropriate sized socket and hammer. Of course, check the allen screws and Lok-Tite them as above.

[gharlow]

Thanks to all who offered advice and suggestions. It turned out to be an much easier project than I had feared.

I pulled the valve cover, and (gently) tapped the cap/insert back out with a hammer. (The set screws in the insert were covered by the screw-in cap.) Seems pretty clear that the dealer way-overtightened the cap when they changed my oil, as the toughest part of the project was breaking the screw-in cap loose from the insert after I removed them from the valve cover. But I also suspect that the set screws in the insert had loosened over time, as it didn't take much to tap out the cap/insert from the valve cover.

Reinstalling the insert was easy, and I was careful to use Loctite. Nothing seems to be leaking, so I'm OK for now. If I have problems again I'll follow the advice above about getting a stock filler cap.

Geoff

[GrafikFeat]

Thanks very much for the replies. I'll have at it on Sunday. And I will use teflon tape on the threads.

Geoff

Never use teflon tape on threads where lubricating oil is involved.

There are a few tricks to using teflon tape in any application.
Wind in the direction of the thread and make sure that you're fully on the thread with none hanging over the end.
If you have any hanging over it will likely be cut during installation and end up floating through which ever system you were working on creating a blockage.

Not a good thing.

[flars]

"...If you have any hanging over it will likely be cut during installation and end up floating through which ever system you were working on creating a blockage..."

I guess if you aren't stupid enough to let any excess hang down inside the valve cover it will be okay, then????
Just asking since I have 140,000 miles on my RS so far and the tape stays right where I put it. And when I change it, it comes off in one long, oily piece.

[GrafikFeat]

I guess if you aren't stupid enough to let any excess hang down inside the valve cover it will be okay, then????
Just asking since I have 140,000 miles on my RS...

...and I had 15 years in the piping/plumbing trades.
Hey... Do what ya want... It was only a heads up.

...Oh and the reason it would hang down inside is because sometimes it will push through.
But you knew that. Seeing how you have the ability to see inside your valve cover when it's installed.