proper orientation of clutch cable in lever

[20715]

Would the experts be kind enough to look at these two photos of my clutch cable? It's only got a few thousand miles on it, new when I switched to Euro bars on my R75/6, and it's already badly frayed. Almost snapped yesterday. I'm picking up a new cable tomorrow morning. I read where it's critical to put the barrel end correctly into the handlebar lever. I assume I did this one wrong., since it failed so quick. Original was still in good shape with over 60K. I'd do the opposite, but when I took this one out I wasn't in position to see which way the slot in the barrel was oriented. I'm thinking the first photo below is the correct orientation. Hope you can see from the photos what I'm asking. I tried to show the barrel just ready to be inserted into the lever. The angle of the photo is from the rear. Thanks.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c304/55hyena/2-1.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c304/55hyena/1-1.jpg

[20774]

Howard -

Just replaced my cable this past weekend. The cable is properly engaged in the barrel. But what I can see is that the outside of the barrel is very dry. It must be lubricated so that the barrel can rotate as the lever goes through its range of motion. The failed cable is a classic symptom of the barrel not rotating.

When you operate the lever, look down at the angle the cable is making. It should not make any angle or curves as the lever moves in and out. That barrel should rotate so the cable remains basically a straight line.

A good silicone grease or even a small amount of wheel bearing grease would work.

[roncooper]

+1 on the lube. Also lube the barrel on the bottom where it contacts the release arm. If it is dry there, the clutch action will be rough and noisy.

[manicmechanic]

I would also suggest taking the lever off the perch, clean the pivot area on both the lever and perch, then clean out the recess for the barrel. Maybe use a small jeweler's file to make sure the openings and slots don't have any burrs. Try-fit the barrel and cable into the lever and make sure everything operates smoothly. Then apply a dab of grease to all joints and reassemble. Observe the cable and barrel to ensure everything is free. Then you should be good to go.

[Bill Burke]

I would also suggest taking the lever off the perch, clean the pivot area on both the lever and perch, then clean out the recess for the barrel. Maybe use a small jeweler's file to make sure the openings and slots don't have any burrs. Try-fit the barrel and cable into the lever and make sure everything operates smoothly. Then apply a dab of grease to all joints and reassemble. Observe the cable and barrel to ensure everything is free. Then you should be good to go.
And do yourself and your clutch cable a huge favor : Renew the white nylon bushing that is press fit into the lever, where the lever pivots on the perch. For about $1 (the cost of the bushing) you can eliminate almost all the worn out slop in the clutch lever, and the feel of the lever action becomes more precise. Not to mention reducing the flex action on the cable...a good thing.

[20715]

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated. I would not have thought to do any of that. If they have the little bushing for the lever, I'll replace it as well. Just to make sure I'm clear - orient the barrel so the slot is facing forward when I reassemble, as seen in the top photo, and not facing backward, as seen in the bottom photo, right? I thought I read somewhere that is critical as well. It'll probably be clear to me when I reassemble and watch the cable closely to make sure it stays straight.

Thanks again.

[skiteach]

[QUOTE=. Just to make sure I'm clear - orient the barrel so the slot is facing forward when I reassemble, as seen in the top photo, and not facing backward, as seen in the bottom photo, right? I thought I read somewhere that is critical as well. It'll probably be clear to me when I reassemble and watch the cable closely to make sure it stays straight.

Thanks again.[/QUOTE]


I'm not sure that is as important as the end piece being free to pivot. Your pictures show that it was most likely flexing the cable, rather than rotateing.

[20715]

Thanks for the help, everybody. Special thanks to Jack at Twin City for getting out a new lever and barrel so we could see which orientation of the barrel was better. I made sure to lube the barrels on both ends with plenty of silicone paste. Also replaced the white bushing in the lever. The original was worn. I just got done installing and adjusting it - feels good - test ride tomorrow.

One last observation (or question). I'm sure I got the shorter cable, for Euro bars, but like the one I just replaced, it seems longer than necessary, even when the handlebar is turned full left. I was careful to route it the same, as I had done when I switched to Euro bars. I used the Flanders repro bars - maybe they're a bit shorter than BMW Euro bars? Not planning on changing them - because they feel perfect. Just wondering if others with a /6 and low bars have noticed that.

Thanks again.

[Bill Burke]

http://www.largiader.com/articles/cables/