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DougT
09-23-2004, 08:19 PM
Hi all. I''m about to do my 600 mile head/valve/tbi service and have read everything I can find but there's no mention of the mechanical screw stop for the throttle body butterfly when synching them. Should this be left alone? How do I know if my starting point is right? Dealer says don't touch. Bike is 2004 R1150R. Thanks again

jdiaz
09-24-2004, 04:52 AM
Doug, you should pay your dealer to perform the 600mi service to aid with warranty claims down the road. This is the only service my bikes ever see at the dealer, and I've never had a claim denied. Just $0.02.....

DougT
09-27-2004, 11:06 PM
Thanks for the reply, but I did my own 600 mile service. The 300 bucks I saved went towards a twinmax and some other goodies. My dealer said it wont affect warranty and he's a pretty straight shooter. I would still like some info on setting the mechanical stop screws for the tbi butterflies though. Any suggetstions?

kbasa
09-28-2004, 12:50 AM
Have you read OVAD from the Advrider site? It's in the Hall of Wisdom at www.advrider.com

DougT
09-28-2004, 10:05 AM
I think you mean the tbi section. And yes I read both. There is nothing that addresses the butterfly stop screw. I feel this is crucial to set up. I was thinking about using a drill blank or something to check the opening. Or I could use the twinmax no? Rather than having the brass screws adjusted differently ( more than 1/2 turn difference) if you can't get it close one would have to adjust the stops. What do you think?

kbasa
09-28-2004, 11:03 AM
You're not supposed to monkey with the throttle stop screws. You adjust the idle with the brass screws and the high speed synch with the cables.

Why would you want to adjust the throttle stops when you have the brass screws?

DougT
09-28-2004, 11:12 PM
Here is 2 examples of why I would need to adjust the stops. One would be if the brass screws were so different in the amount of turns out to achieve proper balance. The other reason, which is my problem is that my idle is too high. I'm at about 1800 rpm. The brass screws are only 1/2 turn out. If I close them more the idle gets too rough. The cables already have slack and the mechanical stops are touching. The only thing left is to move the stops. Tia.

kbasa
09-28-2004, 11:53 PM
I assume you're doing this after the bike is warmed up. I've owned three oilheads and never had to touch the throttle stops.

Ozonkiller
10-04-2004, 09:50 PM
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/zero528.shtml
Check out this web site. It worked wonders. Smoother, better mileage and free!

AntonLargiader
10-05-2004, 07:41 AM
Originally posted by Doug T.
...I'm at about 1800 rpm. The brass screws are only 1/2 turn out.
I think this is basically why some of us recommend taking it to the dealer for the 600 mile. You're talking about tampering with the "do not tamper" stuff on a brand-new under-warranty bike. Under warranty for now, but BMW has voided parts of the warranty for people who have screwed with the TBs, or insisted on replacing them. Why would you want to cut yourself off from dealer support so early in your bike's life?

It's unlikely that the high idle is caused by the stop screws being wrong, anyway (although you can cover the problem up by adjusting them, sure).

DougT
10-05-2004, 05:26 PM
What a great sight. Very detailed info on the tb setup. I think i'm going to just live with the high idle for now. With about 1200 miles on the bike, the idle has gone down to 1500 rpm. I'm gonna play with some other stuff for now just to try and tweak the bike into perfection.