Back from the Death

[beamster]

A few weeks a go i looked at a 1971 R75/5 with 58K, i Bike a Friend of mine did not ride since 1986, sitting around on his junkyard. The Bike was complete, except for the Battery, Tooltray, and Tools. It came with a Fairing and Luggage Rack, wich i both removed. Anyway, the Engine turned over with the Kickstarter, and therefore, i bought it and hauled to my place.
I started with rebuilding the carbs, changed petcocks, fuel line, fuel filters, air filter, resealed the fuel tank, and installed a new battery.
Thanks God, it started to run right away, not perfectly, but i was happy anyway.
I adjusted the Floats, and air mixture Screws, from 1 turn to 3/4 and it runs now very nicely, except for the the idle speed wich is always to high. The Idle adjustment Screws do not even touch the Lever, does anyone have a idea?
Later on, i have to rebuild the Fork, change Tires, and i am sure, i will even more than that, but the idle speed is the most important thing for now. Thanks a lot!
:usa

[manicmechanic]

The idle speed in your case is probably being set by the throttle cables being misadjusted. Loosen the sdjusters at the carb and see if the idle speed comes down. Then set with the speed screw on the carbs, and balance everything out.

[carockwell]

What manicmechanic says about the throttle cable is the most probable issue. The only other thing that seems likely would be the ignition set or stuck too far advanced.

[beamster]

The throttle cables have plenty of slack, perhaps it is the timing, Thanks!

[krehmkej]

Worn (stretched) advance springs in the ignition are a common cause of fast/ erratic idle. Also, be sure to set the idle with the engine HOT, like after at least a 20 minute ride.

[beamster]

I removed the Rear Wheel today, to change the Tire, found the Brake Pads full of Grease/Oil. I was thinking, that someone used the wrong Grease on the Splines, wich melted, or could it be Oil from Differential?
I am sure that the Pads are shot now, i just do not want this to happen to the new Ones again.
Did anyone experienced something similar? Thanks a lot!

[skiteach]

If the seal is leaking, most likely it is, new shoes will be ruined by the 90w.

[beamster]

I see, i cleaned everything up, including the old pads.
After my first ride, i will check again.

[skiteach]

Check the final drive, make sure there is lube, 90w gear oil, in it.

[tghsmith]

check next to the drain plug on the final drive,, there is a small hole that is the drain for the seal area.. any gear oil that drips from the seal should drip out here and not onto the brakes...you may need a new seal, but you also need to make sure this pathway isn't gunked up....

[Weasel]

If those are slide type carbs, make sure that the idle adjustment screw is in contact with the slide. If the slide has a groove worn into it at the point of contact with the screw, then adjustment may not be possible. Mine are like this, shot, so it won't idle correctly.

[beamster]

Thanks, i have CV Carbs.

[beamster]

The Final Drive Oil is full, all the way to the Top.

[mneblett]

The Final Drive Oil is full, all the way to the Top.
When you say all the way to the top, do you mean to the top of the fill hole, or the top of the entire final drive? The top 1/2 of the final drive is needed as an air space.

I was taught to fill only to the bottom of the threads of the fill hole.

[beamster]

The Wheels are off, it might not be even right now.

[Bill Burke]

I removed the Rear Wheel today, to change the Tire, found the Brake Pads full of Grease/Oil. I was thinking, that someone used the wrong Grease on the Splines, wich melted, or could it be Oil from Differential?
I am sure that the Pads are shot now, i just do not want this to happen to the new Ones again.
Did anyone experienced something similar? Thanks a lot!
There are o rings on the rear brake actuation lever that prevent migration of oil to the pads. Those o rings may have dried up/lost their sealing ability while the bike sat. Replace the o rings. Depending upon model, there are either three or four.

[beamster]

OK, i will do that, Thanks!

[beamster]

I have a loose wire, below the Oilpan, and the Neutral Light is flickering, does anyone know where the Neutral Wire exactly connects to? Thanks!

[20774]

There's a neutral switch in the center of the bottom of the transmission. Is the wire in question not connected to anything? If so, I wonder why the neutral light is flickering. The only way it can do that is if the loose wire is momentarily touching ground somewhere or somewhere along the path of this wire is a chafed area which is touching ground. That's all the neutral switch does, either make or break a connection to ground. Once it makes a ground connection, this completes the path and the light illuminates.

[beamster]

Thanks!
The green with maroon wire is not connected to anything, but was touching the bolt on the bottom of the Transmission. How does the Connector look like? Thanks!