View Full Version : Repainting an R75/6
Markst1
09-17-2004, 10:56 AM
I recently purchased a 1974 R/75/6 in good condition. Paint looks to be original, black with white pinstripes. Paint on the tank, headlight, and fenders is in very good condition. Tubular frame and swing arm are rather dinged up and a little rusty in places. I want to make the bike look better and protect it but I don't want to completely dismantle it to have it painted. Was thinking about selectively painting the rough places. Any suggestions? Where to get paint? Can these areas be carefullty brushed, or should they be sprayed? This is a daily rider. I want it to be serviceable, look decent, and be protected. I don't want to disturb the parts that are original and in good condition.
dlearl476
09-17-2004, 11:46 PM
My R75/5 is a little more special than a daily driver, but it's also a long way away from a nut and bolt restoration. I take care of the frame like this:
Tools: Small wire brush (toothbrush size, available at hardware stores. I like the steel ones best) or a Dremel tool with a wire brush attachment. Rust converter. Black Paint. I don't get real meticulous about the frame. I don't have my paint book here in front of me but I believe your bike is "Avus Black" I'm not sure if that's the same paint they used on the frames, but I'm sure someone will post that info. I just use "Semi-gloss Black" Rustoleum. If you want to get more specific, you could go to a body shop supply place and get some of the proper black and have some put in an aerosol and some left in a can. My bike hasn't needed a repair large enough to warrant spraying.
You'll also want some of the appropriate solvent for the type of the paint you buy. Lacquer thinnner, more than likely.
I clean the area with the wire brush, apply some rust converter, then brush paint over the area according to the rust converter instructions* (some say dry, some say tacky). I use small paint brushes like you would use to paint a model.
If you want to go all out, you can use some fine grit wet/dry sandpaper after that, then paint another coat. With a little practice, you can do a "touch-up" that's next to invisible from further than 1 foot away.
*Note: In general, rust converter needs rust to "convert". You don't want to brush down to bare metal, you just want to remove the loose flakes.
BubbaZanetti
09-18-2004, 06:40 PM
wow, i did this THIS WEEKEND on my r100 before my trip. i took apart the entire bike with the exception of the engine and the headlight assembly. i was able to selectively paint almost all of it that way and it looks great. the bike had sat outside for 10 years and was very rusty in places. the only areas i wasn't able to paint this way were where the frame cradle ran under the engine
dlearl476
09-18-2004, 09:14 PM
> the only areas i wasn't able to paint this way were where the frame cradle ran under the engine
A little trick for those hard to reach spots:
Q-tips with plastic sticks and a pair of hemostats (or a small pair of vice grips). Bend the Q-tip to facilitate application of the paint, hold the opposite end with the hemostats and DAUB the paint on. Don't try and brush it, you won't get much to stick.
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