Oil pressure gauage and sender

[lbrackr756]

The clock in the dashboard of my '80 R100Rt finally quit after 29 years. Instead of replacing it so I know what time it is I was thinking about mounting an oil pressure gauge instead. Back in the '70's I found a VDO gauge and sender for my R60/6 and liked it very much. Does anybody know of a source for the gauge and sender now?
Thanks for any help.

Little Egypt Airheads
'66 R50/2
'80 R100RT
'65 Honda 305 Dream (resto project)

[bfuriousb]

I saw one on ebay a while back. See the picture of the coffee cup below.

I did some checking, and the parts listed below are likely to be the parts from the one in the picture. This information may be helpful if you want to try and put it together yourself. I did not actually build one... decided that I didn't need it. (I still like my clock.)

* VDO Oil Temperature Gauge 300 Degree Cockpit Black 2 1/16" ~$28
* (optional) VDO Gauge Mounting pod for 2 1/16" ~$30
* VDO 300F Oil Temp Sender M18x1.5 ~$20

I found the parts available online at a place called germansupply (no affiliation). But these are common parts I imagine.

The description from the picture:

"Used BMW airhead (R-bike) VDO oil temperature gauge. Sending unit replaces the oil drain plug, comes with new seal ring. Gauge and light work, gives accurate temp. Handlebar mount. CONUS shipping only."

If you put one together, be sure to let us know how well it works...

[535is]

Hit a few good auto parts supply stores and see what's available. There are a lot of choices.

The pictured unit is for oil TEMPERATURE, not pressure. There is no way pressure would be measured in the pan. If you want a pressure reading, you will generally have to install a tee fitting if you plan to keep the light switch (a good idea; who watches a gauge for a sudden loss of pressure?). You have the choice of a hydraulic or electrical gauge as well as regular or oil-filled movements. A hydraulic gauge means a small hard line run up to your dash, but is not as problematic as it might seem. An oil-filled movement is less susceptible to vibration inaccuracy.

I did some recent shopping and found gauges from under $20 to about $85. In the end, the biggest problem you might face is finding the smallest gauge face to fit where you want it.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Old post, I know but I am curious.

Where would you install a T-fitting on a non-oil cooled Airhead to read the oil pressure? Doesn't seem possible without some serious machining.

On an oil-cooler bike, I could see it.

[mfwren]

I run a VDO electric oil pressure gauge on my R100S. They make sending units that have duel output poles. One set at 7 pounds for idiot light, other for electric gauge. So you can replace stock sending unit that is used for idiot light with duel output unit and be good to go- some adapters will be needed as threads are not the same. I would assume you could also run a T out of stock oil pressure sending port if you were trying to use a mechanical pressure gauge, but I would think this may get somewhat cumbersome.

Michael Wren
__________________
78 R100S 81 R100RS

[154048]

I found an oil pressure gauge at Autozone that fits perfectly into the clock hole on my '80 RT. I ran the hard line up under the tank, then took the oil pressure sending unit off my engine and had the guy at the auto parts place set me up with the appropriate 'T' fittings.

[Isamemon]

so you say hard line, does that mean you have an oil line running up to your gauge. Or do you have an electrical line.
to me an oil line would be one more potential problem area, esp since in the early days with the oil lines being plastic, Ive had em give out for various reason and leave me stranded in a car, would not want that on my bike. My 2 cents worth

otherwise, I too have a dead clock and have thought of an oil pressure gauge, but maybe I dont want to know

I may have been one of the people that bid on that oil temp gauge

[PGlaves]

Most inexpensive pressure gauges use a small (about the diameter of a slim ballpoint pen cartridge) line that goes from the take-off point to the back of the gauge. More expensive units have calibrated electrical sending units and wires up to the gauge.

The "T" point is most often right at the block where the sending unit for the light is located. A short nipple into the block with that nipple, the gauge sending unit, and the OEM sending unit into the three openings in the T.