Two R50/5 questions

[briana]

Is there a special tool to remove the exhaust flanges? I just bought a bike that has been sitting for LONG time and i'm expecting them to be difficult to remove.

How do you remove the key/switch assembly on top of the head light? It looks like there're 4 tabs, but you can't get at the 2 rear tabs.

Thanks,

Brian

[barryg]

Yes, there is a special tool. The wrench fits around probably half the exhaust nut fins, this wrench has to be used or the fins will most likely be broken off. Not good. When using the proper wrench to remove the nut, pay close attention to the feel of the nut moving. If the nut fills like it is not moving properly. Stop! Both nut and head are aluminum. Threads will gall up. Exhaust nut will be ruined and threads on head will be destoyed. Expensive to fix. Again, not good. If it feels that nut is not moving properly, U will need to get a hacksaw blade and saw thru the nut perpendicular to the threads, then pry the nut off. It is destroyed but the head exhaust threads hopefully saved. Exhaust nut kinda cheap to replace. Fixing galled threads on head expensive.
I have removed some ignition switches from /5s, but its been awhile back. U will probably have to remove the instrument cluster. Not so hard. Unscrew speedo and tach drive cables. Remove lite bulbs one at a time, leave electrical wire connected. Tag as needed. U should now have access to the switch. Good luck with your project.

[briana]

Thanks, where do i get one of these exhaust Flange tools?

Brian

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Most dealers sell the exhaust nut wrench for $25-35. Don't try to get the nuts off with anything else or you will undoubtedly ruin them.

http://tinyurl.com/bmw-airhead-exhaust-wrench

My worst fear was stripping them, since my bike sat for 8+ years before I bought it. Here's what I did and it worked great for me.

Since your bike sat for a long time too, you might want to spray penetrating oil on the threads each time after a ride for a week or so. I used Kroil (gun oil) but most any will do. When they are hot, it pulls the oil into the threads. I'd do this for a week of more. It'll give the wrench you order time to arrive anyway.

Then, when you get the tool slip it onto the nut and take up the slack. I used a rubber mallet and gently tap the end of the wrench. If you don't see ANY movement, stop and do the oil thing again. Do not use a hammer, deadblow or otherwise. The nuts should ease up relatively easy.

Once the nuts are off, put a clean shop rag in the exhaust port and clean the threads with a brass brush, gently. Be extra careful not to get anything into the exhaust port or it could score and ruin your valves, pistons and cylinders, etc.

When you are ready to put them back on, use plenty of anti-sieze (I use Permatex, but there are a lot of brands). Keep it OUT of the exhaust port. Snug the nuts by hand, then a couple light taps with the rubber mallet. Don't hamfist them, or you'll strip the threads (could get expensive).

Good luck.