chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent??

[26667]

Oak suggests, before giving in and replacing the clutch, I try cleaning my oily friction plate w/ a "powerful chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent." Wikipedia shows lots of stuff w long organic chem' class names under that heading. The only two I recognize at all are Benzene and Naptha.

Obviously ya wanna dissolve the hydrocarbons present in motor oil, but what's a good/safe/effective type or brand-name to look for at Mr. Hardware Store? Then let it soak? Wipe w a rag? Use rubber gloves? Mask?

He thinks based on my description of the problem that the oil on the plate is not too serious, and that a cleaning and light sanding are very likely to do the trick. I just hate to take any more of his time.

Thanx, chem' students!:groovy

[tommcgee]

You're not gonna find that stuff at your local hardware store. The days of buying gallon bottles of carbon tet are long gone.

[20774]

Big discussion was going on over at the Airheads list about a month ago...California is pulling cleaners off the shelf, one of them being Brake-Kleen which is chlorinated. They have a non-chlorinated variety though. Tom Cutter indicated that the non-chlorinated didn't do a good job of cleaning. That's probably why Oak is suggested the other as it will have a chance of cleaning things up.

[lostboy]

Very hot water will remove oils that modern cleaning solvents won't touch. Adding some electric dishwashing detergent helps-in other words, put it in the dishwasher! Get it out before the drying cycle begins to prevent rusting and run the diswasher empty before washing dishes, preferably before the lady of the house gets home.

[26667]

Lostboy...you're just trying to put my wife over the edge, aren't you? Do you know how much I've spent on this bike?...? and how much of it my wife thinks could've gone to more important things like purses and shoes??

...which is not to say I'm not willing to risk being beaten half to death with a mop and having my head stuck in the dishwasher :bikes

[108625]

That's a lot of labor to go through twice if it doesn't work, just to save a friction disc.

Fix the leak, clean the flywheel the steel and iron parts with brakleen, and crack open your wallet for fresh asbestos (or whatever "organic" product they're made from now). Or spend the day stinking up the place and giving yourself a headache while you try to be thrifty (an airhead owner, say it ain't so!) and put the questionable one back in again, and ride with another gremlin of paranoia whispering in the back of your mind; "will it hold up? will it hold up?"

[airhead78]

That's a lot of labor to go through twice if it doesn't work, just to save a friction disc.

"

I am on Bob's camp on this one. Perhaps Ok to try the cleaning if you are going to do it yourself. If you are going to end up payng for the install, I would play it safe and get a new one or go the Southland route.

[26667]

I hate to admit it, but Bob and 78 are right;I'm kidding myself, and the paranoia is what's been taking the fun out of the ride. So I think that leaves me back at new clutch.

Tho' you guys and one other source seem to think it's ok to replace only the friction plate, while another says all the plates must be at the least re-faced, or the recommended method; re-Placed so they all match.

Once again, I'd appreciate opinions, but i think it'd best to bite the bullet and go w the whole new clutch.

Thanx for listening:wave

[tommcgee]

Once again, I'd appreciate opinions, but i think it'd best to bite the bullet and go w the whole new clutch.

I agree. Do it once with fresh parts and don't worry about it for a long time. A friend and I rebuilt a clutch in an old British bike almost 40 years ago. We did have it apart a few times getting it right. Never again.