Adjusting paralever pivot bearings

[PETDOC]

I've got an '04 1150 GS with 43,000 miles and for the first time noticed a very slight amount of play in the rear wheel when gripped at the 9 and 3 position. Play remains with rear brake on so I assume it is the paralever bearings. Although I've purchased the JL Paralever bushing replacement I just want to adjust the factory set this time. My question is does the outer 30 mm lock nut have to be heated to 249 degrees F or just the inner pin bolt with the 12 mm hex head.
In the Oct '07 MOA article Paul Glave indicated he torques the inner 12 mm hex head bolt to 7 N-m, marks it and then lets it sit for 30 minutes as the red loctite sets up before torquing the outer bolt to 160 N-m. Again my question is does the outer bolt have red loctite on it?

[MCMXCIVRS]

Yes the whole thing will be held with loctite. You'll need to heat it to loosen it, remove it, clean the old loctite off the threads, then reassemble with new loctite.

And with all that, your half way to installing those new bushings :banghead In my own experience, when the bearings get loose, they are probably fairly rough and retorquing them will just make them tight and not pivot smoothly. Give it a try though, but be prepared to do the full replacement if needed.

[bikerfish1100]

Concur with previous post- yes, you need heat for the large nut, and yes, you might as well go in and replace the old bearings with the new bushings. The bushings are (close to) a lifetime replacement, and you are only likely to pull a few thou out of those bearings (i got maybe 8K out of my last adjustment when in the same condition as yours, but i did not have the bushing kit in hand at the time).
Just do it once, and be done with it (until the 1K mile NECESSARY retorque of the bushings).

[PETDOC]

You guys have convinced me to swap out the bushings for the bearings. As I've never separated the rear drive from the paralever I have a couple of questions.

Do you separate the reaction link and completely pull apart the rear wheel drive from the paralever or just let the rear wheel drive pivot down on the reaction link?

I've read some posts saying you want the drive shaft to be "in phase" upon reassembly. I assume that means the front and rear U joints are aligned at the same axis of rotation? Is this important?

Is there anything else I should be forwarned about to make this go smoothly?

Thanks for the help.

Dave

[bikerfish1100]

yes, you want them in phase, otherwise you get some really annoying vibration, along with (likely) accelerated wear.
rear wheel comes off, rear hub comes off, torque arm comes off.
some good write ups on how to do it over on http://forums.pelicanparts.com

[PETDOC]

Quick follow up question--after I heat up the left sided lock nut and hex head pivot pin I assume I first loosen the outer lock nut. After this do I completely unscrew the inner pivot pin with the lock nut still attached?

[bikerfish1100]

yes. Both L & R side pins must must come out, as they sit inside of the bearings that are going to be replaced. The bearings and respective races should just slide right out.

[BubbaZanetti]

after you phase the joints, paint a little white line between the joint and the shaft, makes things easier if you have to go in again.


also, when you reassemble, LOCTITE GREEN, my directions didn't specify and i don't know that i used the right stuff.

[mathew_hennessy]

Concur with previous post- yes, you need heat for the large nut, and yes, you might as well go in and replace the old bearings with the new bushings. The bushings are (close to) a lifetime replacement, and you are only likely to pull a few thou out of those bearings (i got maybe 8K out of my last adjustment when in the same condition as yours, but i did not have the bushing kit in hand at the time).
Just do it once, and be done with it (until the 1K mile NECESSARY retorque of the bushings).

Interesting.. I just replaced my final drive (and I had to pull the swingarm and driveshaft out to see if anything got damaged above it) and I was wondering if there were any 'hard part' upgrades like those bushings I should look out for? I'm thinking the clutch will have to go next as it's slipping and likely a bit messed up from my meltdown last summer, so if I have to tear this apart over the winter I'd appreciate recommendations on the stuff that should go and the best stuff that should replace it.. My 2001 is at 39k now, will prob be 42-44k by the time I'd get up the nerve to break it in half for the clutch work over the winter..

Much obliged!
= Matt

[bikerfish1100]

Mathew-
i asked the same question of 3 different techs (at 3 different shops)- and all said the ceramic clutch from Tourtech is really designed for racing, and would not be the best option for road use. All concurred tht in this case, the stock unit is the best choice.

regarding Derek's comment on painting a white line on the 2 parts after getting the the phasingcorrect- how about painting that line BEFORE you pull things apart, to make the phasing process that much easier? (yeah, that's what i did)

[BubbaZanetti]

regarding Derek's comment on painting a white line on the 2 parts after getting the the phasingcorrect- how about painting that line BEFORE you pull things apart, to make the phasing process that much easier? (yeah, that's what i did)

would be nice if ALL of them came phased from the factory :whistle

[PETDOC]

I have dutifully read all the available posts here, on ADVRIDER and on Pelicanparts regarding replacing the rear paralever pivot bearings with the JL bushings. The only recurring problem I've seen is when the bronze bushing does not totally seat on the pivot pin. In one thread the guy dis-and reassembled his rear pivot pins 5 times before getting them fully seated. Any words of advice on how to best make sure the bronze bushing seats correctly
Second question is I found a couple of knowledgeable posters on ADVRIDER state they do not use any loctite on the assembly of the pivot pins, and one poster say he only used blue loctite. Any thoughts?
Last question--from the time you apply Loctite 271 (red stuff) how long do you have to seat the copper bearing by torquing the pivot pin to 7 N-m?

[henzilla]

I thought the JL instructions talk about lightly sanding the pins to get a nice fit...I used a fine grade wet/dry sandpaper to do that. One set popped on w/out ...a few others required sanding.

Loctite 270 has been the "recommended" type, also mentioned in JL info...maybe on the website info page. ... it sets rather quickly...put it on the pin as you screw it in and torque real soon! If you wait ,you will have to heat and remove the pin and start over by cleaning it all off the threads as it sets pretty hard.

I set the fixed pin, then the inside one....let that sit for awhile before installing the locknut and torqueing...it keeps the pin from turning by letting the loctite set...I have put a little mark to verify it doesn;t...so far so good

Too each his own on no loctite or blue( easy remove). I don't think at that torque they will vibrate loose...but I am not chancing it..especially on Helen's or others bikes I work on. I think the green is prob better than none...it is made for already installed fasteners as it seeps in the threads.

[PETDOC]

Steve,
Thanks for the reply. I was wondering if I shouldn't press in the inner steel races then put the bronze bushings on the pivot pins (no loctite), torque the pivot pins down, remove them, then apply loctite and re-torque. Wouldn't this allow me to seat the bronze bushings?

Dave

[bikerfish1100]

Too each his own on no loctite or blue( easy remove). I don't think at that torque they will vibrate loose...but I am not chancing it..especially on Helen's or others bikes I work on. I think the green is prob better than none...it is made for already installed fasteners as it seeps in the threads.

Tom Cutter was VERY specific about the need to use 270 loctite, and ONLY the 270. He has forgotten more about beemers than most of us will ever know, so if Tom says to do it like that, i trust him on it, 100%.

[PETDOC]

Tom Cutter was VERY specific about the need to use 270 loctite, and ONLY the 270. He has forgotten more about beemers than most of us will ever know, so if Tom says to do it like that, i trust him on it, 100%.

Actually there is a very long and informative "Loctite" thread on ADVRIDER with the primary authority being a guy who works for Loctite. It appears Loctite 270 is the Eurpean version of 271 in the US. The 270 is relatively difficult to find here and when shipping is added, can be somewhat pricy. The loctite 271 is available at all Home Depots for $5.00. Other interesting facts I've learned is Loctite has a shelf life of about 1 year so don't buy a big bottle, and is not the optimal thread locking compound for stainless steel bolts.

[henzilla]

Steve,
Thanks for the reply. I was wondering if I shouldn't press in the inner steel bushings then put the copper bushings on the pivot pins (no loctite), torque the pivot pins down, remove them, then apply loctite and re-torque. Wouldn't this allow me to seat the copper bushings?

Dave

I got mine to fit as the instructions advised...The bronze bushings should be snug, but you need to be able to pull them off the pins...I would think if you did it your way, they would be on there for good...I am assuming he wants them to slip/rotate on the pins some.

[henzilla]

after you phase the joints, paint a little white line between the joint and the shaft, makes things easier if you have to go in again.


also, when you reassemble, LOCTITE GREEN, my directions didn't specify and i don't know that i used the right stuff.

BTW...the 270 is kinda green...I have the green labeled type as well that as mentioned can be applied to already tightened fasteners.

[henzilla]

Tom Cutter was VERY specific about the need to use 270 loctite, and ONLY the 270. He has forgotten more about beemers than most of us will ever know, so if Tom says to do it like that, i trust him on it, 100%.

I agree...he's the man on those bushings....I use the 270 on FD's all the time, never used anything else.
Maybe the ADV guys didn't have a heat gun or they were changing bearings out a lot!

[PETDOC]

I got mine to fit as the instructions advised...The bronze bushings should be snug, but you need to be able to pull them off the pins...I would think if you did it your way, they would be on there for good...I am assuming he wants them to slip/rotate on the pins some.

Steve,
Thanks for all the feed back. After reading everything I was under the impression that the bronze bushings were not supposed to rotate on the pins; hence, the reason for applying loctite between the bushing opening and the pin surface. I'm all set to give it a try.
FWIW. When reading my Clymer manual on removing/adjusting rear pivot pins they spec Loctite 271. It is red and 270 is green, but I don't think color has anything to do with the composition of the product.

Dave

[henzilla]

I haven't installed a set of bushings on our bikes in a bit so I was going on memory. I didn't dig thru my stuff for the instruction sheet. , several bearings since then on friends bikes but that's what I recall from the JL.
As mentioned, it seems 270 and 271 are supposed to be compatible. I use enough to warrant a large bottle of 270 from Rubber Chicken. Maybe Bikerfish will add some more info on the pin fit

[bikerfish1100]

I'm in the same boat as you are Steve- working from memory (did mine 1 year ago), could not find my insturctions from Tom, and he does not have them posted on his site as a pdf (he does have other downloads available however).
270 vs 271 is a non-issue, both work & spec the same. whatever it was that tom said to do: iirc, it's the bushings lock to the pin with loctite, and the races lock to the housing- leaving the bushings free to rotate against the inner face of the race. Thinking about it, doesn't that make the most sense, having the 2 most accurately mated faces that are specificially designed for smooth movement being the only place that movement happens?

[PGlaves]

OK - after five sets of these things, and a discussion with Mr. Cutter and with Jess Lindley who invented/makes the things here is the drill.

Jess originally machined the bushings to be a slight interference fit on the stub axles. He had some problems with the bushing splitting due to the interference fit. Thereafter he has machined them to be snug - not sloppy - but not a tight interference fit.

You want the movement to be between the bronze bushing and the steel race - not against the softer pin. So, the correct way to insure this without the interference fit and risk of splitting the bushing is to use 270 Loctite between the bushing and the stub axle, as well as on the threads.

So polish/sand the stub axles until the bushing are a snug HAND fit. Insert the bushings into the races in the final drive. Grease the bushings first. Honda Moly 70 works. I prefer a heavier greasier moly grease like Guarddog 535 or a plain sticky grease like Wurth 3000. Apply Loctite to the stub axle surface and the thread sections. Tighten the fixed pivot. Tighten the movable pivot to the point where the lateral movement in the joint is just eliminated.

Like Henzilla - I apply Loctite to the threaded movable pivot and tighten it to zero preplay, very slight preload - and then let it sit for about 30 minutes. I then tighten the locknut to its specified torque without Loctite on the Locknut. I paint mark the pivots so I can see if anything ever moves.

[henzilla]

And there ya go! Thanks Paul! Not up to five sets so was a little fuzzy...That's how set 2 was done on the 1150.

[PETDOC]

Paul,
Thanks for the input. Three quick questions for clarification:

Does it matter if you torque the outer pivot pin to 160 N-m before putting inner pivot pin in place or should you put them both in with loctite applied to threads before first torquing the outer pin then setting the inner pin? The reason for the question is having not done this before I'd like to have a trial run on setting the tension on the inner pin before applying loctite.

Am I correct in assuming you do not at any point use a torque wrench when setting the inner, adjustable pivot pin?

How long do you have to adjust things before loctite starts setting up?

Thanks

Dave

[PGlaves]

Paul,
Thanks for the input. Three quick questions for clarification:

Does it matter if you torque the outer pivot pin to 160 N-m before putting inner pivot pin in place or should you put them both in with loctite applied to threads before first torquing the outer pin then setting the inner pin? The reason for the question is having not done this before I'd like to have a trial run on setting the tension on the inner pin before applying loctite.

Am I correct in assuming you do not at any point use a torque wrench when setting the inner, adjustable pivot pin?

How long do you have to adjust things before loctite starts setting up?

Thanks

Dave

You can go ahead and torque the fixed fivot to its final spec right away and leave it. Apply loctite sparingly to both the axle stub and the threads before tightening.

Then you could run the fixed pivot in without loctite to practice and get a feel for how it goes together if you wish. I doubt that is necessary however.

You should tighten the movable pivot to snug to be sure that the bushing is fully seated on the pivot. You need to do this right away so the bushing on the fixed pivot which already has its loctite is pushed fully onto its stub axle too.

You will feel some resistance while the bushing is being pushed onto the stub axle. You will feel it get tight suddenly when it is all the way on.

Then back off until you can get slight wiggle in the unit side-to-side. Then tighten to take up all of the slack. If the threads are clean, with new loctite and the bushing is all the way on the stub axle so it turns freely without impediments, then a final torque on the movable pivot of 4 INCH pounds is appropriate. To get this measurement requires it be tightened, then loosened, the tightened to final torque. This assumes that all traces of old loctite have been physically removed from the threads prior to assembly. I use a wire wheel on the male threads, and a Dremel tool with a small rotary brass brush on the female threads. I always run the fasteners in and out with fingers only to make sure the threads are clean and sound.

The loctite sets pretty fully in 10 or 15 minutes, even if not yet to full strength. I like to tighten and not disturb within just a few minutes - and there is no reason this doesn't work (usually :) )

Now about those steering head bearings on my F650 ............................... :)

[PETDOC]

Paul,
You are obviously a very talented mechanic. I tried to put in a JL paralever race 7 times using the technique you described in your MOA article. Seven times I had to remove the race because it got a little off level and would no longer move inward. I began to think I may have to find a machine shop to insert the races, but tried a variation on your technique which worked.
I put the race in a cup of ice while heating the rear drive housing to 250 degrees F. I removed the race from the ice, dried it and placed it on the rear drive housing as level as I could get it. I then used a rubber mallet to tap the race in as far as it would go. Each time it started to move off level I'd hit it on the high spot. Once the race stopped moving inward (approx 2/3 of the way) and was level I used your technique with the bolt and washers. Everything went fine at that point.
Almost done; thanks for all the advice.

Dave

[PGlaves]

Paul,
You are obviously a very talented mechanic. I tried to put in a JL paralever race 7 times using the technique you described in your MOA article. Seven times I had to remove the race because it got a little off level and would no longer move inward. I began to think I may have to find a machine shop to insert the races, but tried a variation on your technique which worked.
I put the race in a cup of ice while heating the rear drive housing to 250 degrees F. I removed the race from the ice, dried it and placed it on the rear drive housing as level as I could get it. I then used a rubber mallet to tap the race in as far as it would go. Each time it started to move off level I'd hit it on the high spot. Once the race stopped moving inward (approx 2/3 of the way) and was level I used your technique with the bolt and washers. Everything went fine at that point.
Almost done; thanks for all the advice.

Dave

Bearing races can be a problem. BMW has a nice array of factory tools that help a lot. I don't have them so often need to improvise. Freezing the bearing (race) and heating the case always helps.

I just had to do the steering head bearings on my F650. Very similar to Paralever races - except you can't do it on the work bench. Driving the bottom bearing race upward while squatting or lying on your back makes for very interesting grunting type sounds.

'Glad you got it!

[PETDOC]

For anyone else who replaces the OEM bearings with the JL bushings the other item I found of great benefit, besides a rubber mallet to set the races, was a small gear/bearing puller.
I sanded (and re-sanded) my pivot pins with 400 grit sand paper and pushed on the bushings 5 times before I was able to get them to seat by digital force alone. The first time I used heat to remove the bushings (as recommended by instructions from Rubber Chicken Racing Garage). Ouch!! After that I used my Posilock bearing/gear puller (Mdl. 103, got at Sears for $39). It made the repeated bushing removal incredibly easy.

[beemermyke]

After months of procrastinating, I finally pulled my set of J&L paralever bushings off the shelf and went to work on it this past weekend. Thanks for all the comments on this thread about tips and tricks for doing this job. Even know I did have to do some sanding on some parts, the job itself was relatively easy to do. Thought I'd offer a few of my own amatuer observations/tips here:

I found that a heat gun did not work too well for the job, in my case. I ended up using a blowtorch, but to protect the finish on the housing surrounding the left and right pins, I took a small piece of 3/4" wood plank and bored a hole in it the approximate size of the pins. I just put the board over it, heated the pins (sure, a little burnt wood, but not too bad) and it avoided any damage to the finish.

Once you separate the aft housing and get it up on a bench, and pop out that short piece of axle in there (whatever ya call it); inserting a 13/16 socket and an extension to get on the back side of the old bearing's outer race keeps you from having to use a bearing puller and the old parts came out with a few taps of the hammer. (I placed the board with the hole in it under the housing to prevent damage and allow a place for the old bearings to drop into.)


I didn't need to disconnect the lower shock strut to aid in alignment during reassembly. Also, instead of stuffing a rag up in there to raise the driveshaft up a bit, I took a piece of a metal coathangar, fiddled around with the shape, and then put it in through the left (inboard) pin hole. I tucked it up under the driveshaft to support it and it took me less than a minute to mate the shafts back together. The wire came out easily, and that potentially aggravating part of the job was done.

Lastly, I didn't see it in the instructions, but when you seat the steel races into the assembly, you want to make sure that they seat all the way down to where they are against the "lip" at the bottom of the hole. In other words, the race won't be flush with the surface of the assembly, it will be down below it approx. 1/16" or so. (I called Tom Cutter just to be sure). I found that freezing the races and heating the assembly just before putting it together helped ALOT.
I've got some various photos that I took during the job if anybody wants them. :thumb

[jm1515]

beemermyke....
What was the final torque you applied to get rid of the wheel slop? :scratch

[beemermyke]

Hey jm515, I did not exactly set my torque wrench on the final torque of the inboard (left) pin. After torqueing the right pin, I used the "calibrated elbow" method (which I normally don't do) when I tightened down the left. I did it in gradually until the slop was gone. Coincidentally, RoyB wrote an outstanding article with lots of pics in this forum, and he mentions a minimum and maximum torque value. I feel confident that my torque was within the range he mentions. Of course, I still gotta ride it a few hundered miles to see if everything went well. A general question for anyone out there... when you do the final torque on the nut, do you put loctite on that too? I haven't yet, but marked it so I can look for any signs of it backing off. Besides what RoyB wrote, Paul Glaves' comments were very very helpful.

Paul: You should just go ahead and compile your articles and write some maintenance manuals and get it over with. I'd buy yours over the Haynes book any day! :thumb

[bikerfish1100]

In Tom Cutter's instructions, he says "Apply Loctite 270 to OUTBOARD pivot pin threads and install. Pivot pins fit snuggly into bushings so care must be taken to seat pin fully into bushing. Carefully tighten INBOARD pivot pin to INBOARD pivot pin out one turn and torque OUTBOARD pivot pin to 110 ft. lbs. Set preload torque with INBOARD pivot pin to 36-48 in. lbs. Apply Loctite 270 to locknut and torque to 75 ft. lbs. Check preload torque at 500-1000 miles. You must remove the locknut from pivot pin and clean the threads or old Loctite will cause false torque readings."
When i rechecked mine, I just backed the pin out a bit, and reset it to the correct torque setting.
In talking with Tom, he was adamant about the need for that 500-1K retorqueing so as to get maximum life from the bushings. He claims well over 150,000 miles on his bike's pivot bushings.

[PETDOC]

Before replacing my pivot pin bearings with the JL bushings I read every article and chat group post I could find on the topic. The recommended uses or not of loctite on the left (inboard) pivot pin and/or lock nut were all over the place, ranging from use on both to don't use any!
After replacing my own pivot pin bearings I opted for loctite on the pivot pin, but not on the lock nut for now. I'm undecided what I'll do when I recheck the pivot pin setting in 500-1000 miles. Although at first I considered the recommendation of no loctite at all to be crazy, but the more I thought about it the more logical it seems. I have 8 valve adjusters which are held in place by lock nuts. They are subjected to a lot more movement and heat than my paralever joints, and are bathed in oil. Why do I trust them to not move, but can't trust the paralever bolt with a lock nut not to move? What is the purpose of a lock nut here if you're going to apply loctite 270/271 to the pivot pin?
If I make BMW's special tool (30mm socket with hole for 12mm Allen wrench) before I readjust my inner pivot pin I am currently considering only applying loctite to the inner surface of the bronze bushing and the lock nut, but not the threads of the pivot pin. If your response echoes my mom's comment "Because I (inset any name you want) said so" it won't help me resolve my lingering doubt on the need for loctite on the inboard pivot pin threads.

[beemermyke]

Hey PETDOC, I'd actually read someone's post (don't recall who) that mentioned threadlocker on the inboard pin threads, and he had made an off-handed comment like "I've heard there might be a Service Bulletin by BMW that specifies not to use threadlocker on the inboard pin threads, but I haven't contacted a dealer to ask about it". Well, I did contact my dealer as I had all these parts laying on the tailgate of my truck, and the service department there either hadn't ever done paralever bushing replacements (yeah, right), or they just plain didn't want to help me. In closing, he said something like "well... the techs are real busy right now". Won't bash the dealership on here by mentioning the name of the place, but they've lost my business since I already had parts issues with them a month ago.

Anyway, I used the threadlocker on the pin threads, but for now I left it off the nut just in case I have to re-tighten the inboard pin after 500 miles or so. I figure it's one less thing I gotta melt with the blowtorch if I find the wheel is loose again...

[bikerfish1100]

..... just in case I have to re-tighten the inboard pin after 500 miles or so...

again, according to Tom Cutter, that retorque at 500-1000m is critical for the longevity & performance of this bushing installation, and it must be done with the nut loose.
so your leaving the nut un-loctited sounds like a pretty reasonable call. intimating that the retorque is a matter of "just in case" is not so reasonable, nor prudent.

[rbertalotto]

You want the movement to be between the bronze bushing and the steel race - not against the softer pin. So, the correct way to insure this without the interference fit and risk of splitting the bushing is to use 270 Loctite between the bushing and the stub axle, as well as on the threads.

I just installed my bushing last night.

http://www.rvbprecision.com/motorcycles/bmw-pivot-bearing-replacement.html

But someone brought up the point of how do you remove the pivot pin in the future if the bushing is loctited to it? Heat and let the threads pull it apart?

I believe a big issue folks are having with this kit are the directions are not clear that the race needs to be seated to the bottom of the recess. I even called Jesse to be sure. If it isn't seated to the bottom of the recess, over time it will try to seat itself and continuously loosen up the pivot joint. Clear pictures showing this in the link above.

[beemermyke]

intimating that the retorque is a matter of "just in case" is not so reasonable, nor prudent.

Based on the assumption that we change out the bushings due to play in the wheel assembly, I'm going to assume that if I have no play after 500-1000 miles, I won't need to retorque it. I think it is a "check" and you don't necessarily have to do anything if everything is still tight after that many miles. Anyone else have an opinion on this? Maybe I mis-read the intent of the check and maybe I should ignore my "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset.

[PETDOC]

Based on the assumption that we change out the bushings due to play in the wheel assembly, I'm going to assume that if I have no play after 500-1000 miles, I won't need to retorque it. I think it is a "check" and you don't necessarily have to do anything if everything is still tight after that many miles. Anyone else have an opinion on this? Maybe I mis-read the intent of the check and maybe I should ignore my "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset.

What you suggest makes sense to me. Wonder if Tom Cutter or Jess Lindley would offer an opinion?

[PETDOC]

Based on the assumption that we change out the bushings due to play in the wheel assembly, I'm going to assume that if I have no play after 500-1000 miles, I won't need to retorque it. I think it is a "check" and you don't necessarily have to do anything if everything is still tight after that many miles. Anyone else have an opinion on this? Maybe I mis-read the intent of the check and maybe I should ignore my "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset.

Well I put 1100 miles on my JL paralever bushings and there is a very, very slight wobble so whether to re-torque or not is a moot point. Now all I have to do is decide where or if to use loctite 271.

[rbertalotto]

I have 1200 miles on my JL bearings with zero movement.

I fellow at the MOA rally had a great idea to secure the two bolts. Cut a couple of pieces off an allen key that insert into the holes and stick out about .25". Drill a small hole through the piece of allen key and run a piece of wire completely around the FD and through both holes to secure the bolts from turning.

Neat huh?

[PETDOC]

Roy,
When I set my JL paralever bushings I torqued the inboard paralever bolt to 42 in-pds. Rear end was rock solid. I'm curious when you set yours what final torque setting did you use?
Dave

[rbertalotto]

I also used 42 in lbs.............as you say, "rock solid"........

[PETDOC]

I also used 42 in lbs.............as you say, "rock solid"........
Roy,
Took the locknut and inboard pin out. Cleaned off old loctite with acetone until the pin threaded smoothly. I put the pin back in, bedded it and then backed off before torquing to 42 inch-lbs. I then grabbed the rear drive at 12 and 6 and tried to wobbled it. It had a very slight wobble. I gradually tightened the pin until no detectable wobble could be produced.
After this I removed the pin, put my torque wrench away, applied some loctite 271 on the inner surface of the bushing and pin thread, screwed in the pin til it bedded, backed it out slightly and then slowly tightened while repeatedly trying to wobble the rear drive. When I could no longer produce a wobble, I stopped. I have no idea what my final torque is, although I know it is slightly greater than 42 in-lbs. In the future I am going to use the "wobble" technique vs a torque wrench when adjusting this pin; makes more sense to me.

[rbertalotto]

Petdog,

I agree completely...........Some adjustments require a torque wrench but lots of low torque fittings like this are better done by feel.

After 1000 miles, mine are still perfect...................:clap

[PETDOC]

Tighten the movable pivot to the point where the lateral movement in the joint is just eliminated.

Actually I should add that using the "wobble" technique for tightening the inboard pivot pin is what Paul Glaves tried to tell me back on post #23!

[beemermyke]

I used the "wobble technique" (aka... I don't need no stinkin' torque wrench!) and I've gone just over 1,000 miles too with no play to report. Gotta love those J&L bushings!

[j-budimlya]

With the wealth of experience in this thread...even I think that I can do this change out. I have re-torqued my bearings twice and again are getting loose, so as its been said, its time to do a replacement to put this issue away for good.

Thanks for all of the help here...especially Roy's great photos and explaination.

[rbertalotto]

Hey Jim,

Alway glad to help a West Coast Yankee Beemer!

[beemermyke]

Good luck with it Jim. I still occasionally still check for wheel slop on mine, and I'm happy to report that it's still rock solid 6200 miles since I installed my J&L bushings.:clap