New 1993 R100GSPD

[AKBeemer]

This is my new bike.... I'm a happy boy. I picked her up last evening.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e109/AKBeemer/R100GSPD/P6080013.jpg

It had 2311 miles on the odo and has been stored in an aircraft hanger. The previous owner bought it new here in Fairbanks and rode it every year or two.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e109/AKBeemer/R100GSPD/P6080017.jpg

I put new TKs on last evening; it had the original Saharas mounted and they had some dry rot. I will change all the fluids in the next day or so.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e109/AKBeemer/R100GSPD/P6080020.jpg

I plan to add some driving lights and a pelican case as a top-case, but other than that I plan to just ride her like she was meant to be ridden.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e109/AKBeemer/R100GSPD/P6080015-1.jpg

In ten days my wife and I leave for a ride that will take us to Valdez, Dawson, the Denali Highway and Deadhorse.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e109/AKBeemer/R100GSPD/P6080018.jpg

I've already received some great information from Josh about owning a GSPD (transmission circlip for example will be done in the winter) but I'd appreciate any thing you have on, for example; recommended farkles, sources for farkles and parts, use of synthetics in the transmission or FD.... anything you can suggest.

Yippee!!!!

[BubbaZanetti]

holy clean batman!

[Kirbster919]

Yeah.... that is probably the cleanest example on earth. I think its great that you are going to ride it!

[jdmetzger]

Wow! That sure is cleaner than mine! Nice!

Now I have more motivation, since the mechanicals are pretty much sorted out, to strip everyone out of the frame this winter so I can repaint/power coat everything. Rush is taking hold in a few places and I need to head it off.

Beautiful bike! :thumb

[sumran]

A thing of beauty! And the perfect paint scheme for Alaska.:thumb

[Solo_Lobo]

Are you taking this bike for that ride in 10 days?

If so, I would say to try and put at least 500 miles on the bike between now and then... thinking being if the tires were dry rotted, chances are some other rubber bits may be as well...

I'd definately replace the carb to head, and snorkel to airbox rubbers for a start.... and the odomoter cable rubber at the gear box...

[AKBeemer]

Your cautionary advice is well placed. I've looked for other signs of dry rot and dried seals and have found none, but it's what I can't see that will bite me. I do plan to put as many local miles on it as I can to look for trouble.

[hidgecodge]

Ive owned a1992 r100gspd since new and love it.Put a nice soft face cloth on top of the tank and install the tank bag.The tank stays scratch free and you can store maps etc in the bag.

What a nice looking machine! My last set of tires were michelin anakees which held up well.They did well on dirt roads.

Enjoy, Hidgecodge

[AKBeemer]

Any problems with running synthetic engine oil and gear oil?

[henzilla]

WOW...Great looking and what a find! I bet you are all smiles for sure!

I myself would stay away from the synthetics...As I found out on the '95 oilhead, the older the seals and gaskets, the harder the transition was and caused several leaks in both the engine and the FD within 1000 miles of switching...too much of a coincidence. But, that's my opinion.

[henzilla]

Wow! That sure is cleaner than mine! Nice!

Now I have more motivation, since the mechanicals are pretty much sorted out, to strip everyone out of the frame this winter so I can repaint/power coat everything. Rush is taking hold in a few places and I need to head it off.

Beautiful bike! :thumb

:laugh:laugh:laugh Uh...JD...Freud moment or what are you really listening to on the radio? sorry dude...couldn't resist!

back to our current thread...

[Recht]

Absolutely beautiful! Nice Find.

[Solo_Lobo]

Any problems with running synthetic engine oil and gear oil?


I take the tact of using dino oils and changing more frequently... I've heard tale of synh causing leaks as well, but haven't ever ran it myself...

[AKBeemer]

Changed the engine, trans and FD oils last night. So far the only thing that appears wrong is the front brake. It had a foreign substance on the rotor when I picked it up. I've cleaned it twice and it has returned to a small degree. Ordered new pads. Also ordered some rubber pieces that are showing signs of dry rot.It runs and rides like a new bike.

[robsryder]

Any problems with running synthetic engine oil and gear oil?

Some years back I tried Mobil 1 15W-50 in a couple of my airheads. One bike is a 93 GS/PD and the other is a 75 R60/6. Within a couple of days both bikes were leaving a puddle of oil beneath them in the garage. Previously neither had leaked oil. I quickly replaced the Mobil 1 for some Valvolene Dura-Blend 20W-50 (a semi-synthetic) oil.

The 93 GS/PD stopped leaking; the R60/6 did not. I ended up replacing all of the engine oil seals on the R60/6.

After 15 years the pushrod seals on my 93 GS/PD began leaking. Last summer I replaced the left side set when they leaked. Now the right side set need to be replaced. The replacement can be done in a couple of hours or less.

I remove the exhaust from the head. The carb is disconnected from the head and moved out of the way. Both cylinder spark plugs are removed. The valve cover is removed. With the engine at Top-Dead-Center and the valves closed (will feel some wiggle on the rockers) I remove the rockers and pushrods.

To remove the rockers I loosen in a criss-cross pattern (initially 1/4 turn each) the four bolts on the long studs holding the head and cylinder to the case. I do NOT loosen the top and bottom nuts that hold the head to the cylinder.

I pull the head/cylinder away from the case enough to expose the piston skirt and wristpin. I remove the circlip from one side and push the wrist pin out enough for the piston to become free of the con rod. Take care to not allow the con rod to fall against the engine case. I leave the piston stuck in the cylinder and remove the head/cylinder/piston assembly.

The old pushrod seals are removed. The area around the engine case is thoroughly cleaned. I apply a bit of silicone to the new pushrod seals and place them on the pushrod tubes. I found that the rubber o-ring was missing from the base of the left-hand side cylinder (there was a groove present). This o-ring was likely not installed at the factory. I added the o-ring. I applied a very light coating of hylomar about the base of the cylinder and engine case (very light coating!).

The head/cylinder/piston assembly was slipped over the studs. The wrist pin pushed through the con rod little end - the circlip was replaced in the piston. The cylinder was seated against the engine case. Take care to make certain that the pushrod seals are oriented properly.

Replace the pushrods and rockers. Apply the four nuts to the studs and finger tighten. I tighten in a criss-cross pattern in stages. The torque at each stage is 10 ft-lbs, 18 ft-lbs, and finally 25 ft-lbs. The valve clearances are set and the valve cover is replaced.

The carb, exhaust, and spark plugs are replaced. Clean-up and then start the bike. Hopefully no more leaks!

I don't see the point in synthetic transmission / final drive oil. I use Valvolene 80W-90 gear oil with a bit of Dow Gear Guard M (5% vol).

[From MARS]

Any problems with running synthetic engine oil and gear oil?

I put Amsoil 20/50 in the engine and 75/90 in the rebuilt tranny and F/D of my '93 PD (32K miles) about 600 miles back. The PO had the pushrod seals changed, and I changed the rear seal and oil pump o-ring this past winter. No leaks, so far.

As to why I went to the syn oil...... I figured that since most of my riding is done off pavement (lower gears/slower speeds, higher rpm's, and hot weather) the syn might be a good idea. Besides, I had a case of the stuff left from my K-bike days.

Tom

[AKBeemer]

Well I've got over 1500 miles on my new GSPD including a ride over to Dawson, YT for the annual Dust-2-Dawson gathering of Adventure Riders. The bike performed like a new machine and I could not be happier. The horn was not working and we isolated the problem to the switch. Took it apart and did not see an issue; reassembled the switch and the horn works. I met another R100GS rider who had an aftermarket windshield on his bike. It was much wider and extended out as wide as, and as low as the turn singles. He said it was on his bike when he got it and did not know the a manufacturer; anyone know who may still offer aftermarket windshields for a 1993 GSPD?

[johnborsellino]

My mechanic highly recommends and uses a Parabellum windshield on his GS and I am a shade over 6' 4'' and a few days before my trip to Laconia's Rally installed a Laminarlip on my 1992 R100R windshield and am very impressed with the marked improvement in comfort even at very high speeds