New guy question-'79 R80/7

[lucky23]

Hello! I just bought an 1979 R80/7 that runs good, but needs a new alternator rotor. I plan on buying one from Motorrad Elektrik along with the removal tool and doing the work myself, but is there anything i should be aware of that's not covered in the Clymer manual? it seems pretty straightforward. Should i replace the brushes while im in there? Thanks in advance!

[20774]

How many miles on the bike? What are the length of the current brushes? My guess is that the current brushes will be fine. It's fairly easy to get the stator off to replace the brushes, so that could be done most any time. Plus, change only one thing and see how the charging system works. If you change several things at once, you won't know the effect of any one item.

[sumran]

Welcome.

Be sure to disconnect the battery before removing the cover. You probably already know that. There is a three-wire plug on the front of the alternator. Many prefer to make those three single connections. You can fit new connectors or carefully divide the existing one. It makes it easier to get solid electrical contact. You will be there anyway.

I would carefully check the grounding of the diode board. If you have the rubber mounts you may want to install the solid mounts or plan for it in a future service. With the rubber mounts it is especially important to have the ground wires at each post and well connected to the chassis.

The brushes may be fine and are easy to inspect. They last a long time. I wouldn't change them unless they are too short.

You are in good shape if you are talking with Rick. He will give you good info and won't sell you something unless you need it.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Disconnect the negative cable at the battery post before you remove the cover. You'll be told this just shy of 1 bazillion times. Good advice to heed.

One other point to consider when you are removing the stator, be careful not to pull on the aluminum housing alone...you need to get the windings too or you'll pull it apart. So grab it from the part the is against the timing chain housing. Of course if you KNOW its bad and you are replacing it with an Omega...I guess it wouldn't REALLY matter...but it may still be good and resellable to offset the cost of said Omega.

Once you get it on the bench, it's good to check the ohms and a heck of a lot easier to remove the brush housing if you want a close look. If you are going to remove the housing, it may pay to buy a 8mm or 10mm (can't recall the exact size right now) ignition wrench, heat it and gently bend the head to a 30 degree angle to get to the inside nut on the brush housing. Its hard to get to because of the stator windings and all too easy to round the nut. DAMHIK

[lucky23]

All great replies. Thanks so much everyone! As soon as I hear back from Rick @ Motorrad Elektrik and order the parts I'm ready to go...