Long Term Storage

[rmdrc]

I have come to the unfortunate situation where I need to put my 93 R100r in long term storage. I know this is probably the worst thing I can do for the bike but it is my first BMW and I can’t bring myself to sell it.

I know the drill for winter storage but I’m probably talking more than 5 years here. Any suggestions on long term storage out there?

[boxermaf]

Make sure that there is absolutely NO food/seeds/edible stuff for little critters anywhere around as they WILL decide to make a home in the bike (they might anyhow, but food source nearby will guarantee it).

I'd fog/oil the cylinders and inside the fuel tank, and fog the carbs after fulling draining them, etc. You might even consider fogging the engine cases or applying some light oil or anti-corrosive to slow down the effects of oxidation.
Change the oil & filter and other fluids like fork oil, final drive, drive shaft, gearbox, etc.

Block up the bike so that both front and rear tires are off the ground and suspension is not compressed. This will prevent your springs from taking a set and also flat-spotting your tires. Make sure the bike is clean and waxed and covered. I block off the exhaust pipes and all airbox inlets with material to prevent critters (mice, chipmunks) from getting in there and setting up house.

Take the seat and battery home with you and store in a warm, protected place. Put battery on tender, or else just plan to buy a new battery in 5 years and give the battery to a buddy who will use it the next few years.

These are just some things that come to mind. 5 years is a long time for a bike to sit there, lonely.... maybe you should loan it to one of us to keep her happy and regularly exercised for the duration !

[mymindsok]

Five years? Thats a long time...

Unless you have a dry, heated place to store the bike, you would be better off selling it!

OTOH, I'd find a nice dry basement to store it in, drain all of the fluids and replace them with fresh, drain the tank, disconnect the fuel lines and leave the tank lid open, put the bike on the center stand, give the battery away, cover it with a good, heavy duty bike cover and hope it's there when you return.

The real enemies of a stored bike are moisture and sunlight and thats why basement storage is almost ideal. Next best is in a heated garage and the worst places are barns, unheated garages, sheds or outside in the elements.

[seniorasi]

I was discussing long term storage recently with an individual who fills the transmission case with oil through the top of the transmission where the air box bolts on. His theory is that no damage can occur if all the bearings, shafts, gears, etc. are submerged in oil. Ditto the former suggestions.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Get some #0000 bronze wool, tear off a chunk and wrap a few mothballs in it, then push it into each muffler. Also do the same with the air cleaner (I think your bike has the plastic, dual ram intakes that are perfect for mice to crawl into.

Clip the toes off a pair of panty hose, fill with moth balls, knot them and drop into places like the tool kit area, tank bag, etc. Any place where mice might want to nibble and nest (thinking seat foam, etc.).

The bronze wool will not rust like steel wool, I use it all the time on boats. That'll keep the rodents out. The moth balls also keep the rodents away and they won't chew the broze wool without a good dentist.

+1 on draining and venting the tank, blocking the bike to save the suspension and giving the battery away. 5 years isn't really worth it.

Might want to spray a heavy coat of silicon spray (not WD40) on the rims, engine, and wipe all painted parts clean, then wax them (thinking of the frame too here). Don't leave the wax on.

Brake fluid might be fine, since its a sealed system.

Get those large paper price tags that have string (not wire) and write "DO NOT START, OVERFILLED WITH OIL FOR STORAGE" all over the areas you filled (Trans, crankcase, FS, etc.) and one wrapped around the right grip covering the starter button.

[tghsmith]

wash and dry the bike
drain fuel system(tank+carbs) oil fog
flush the brakes( compress the pistons and invert the calipars if possible while doing this,)
grease and lube pivots and bearings
drain all the lubes...
final drive/ fill from the vent untill FULL
shaft/ FILL completely
gearbox, replace vent bolt and fill from air box bolt untill FULL
pull spark plugs and had rotate the engine oil fogging(through plug holes) so that the valve areas are coated, bring the pistons to TDC and FILL the engine with oil
remove battery and give it to another needy airhead..
remove and wrap seat
wipe all plastics down liberally with protectant
place bike in storage area , wax the painted, spray protectant on metals(bike bag might be considered)
oil fog mufflers place bronze or stainless steel wool in ends(pot scrubbers)
moth balls or other critter deterants
depending on tire age plan on replacing
write a note of everything done and place at bike
put keys were they will be found(maybe two sets in seperate locations)
Note: all filling of oils is to the MAX that location can hold/ reduces airspace preventing condisation and coats and covers as much as the internals as can be...

[rmdrc]

Thanks guys, the bike was my spare and I would lend it out from time to time when the need arose. However a new purchase has left me with no space in the garage. Not to worry though I still have an airhead on the road.

Thanks again

[3moskvichi]

My r100rt was in storage for 11 years.

Don't use KREEM to coat the gas tank. It flakes off after some time. I've heard POR15 is a better alternative tank liner.

Here's what I did, and my bike is on the road today.

Remove all gasoline from the tank, lines, and carbs. I coated the tank, but did nothing special to the carbs other than completely empty them.

Change all oils. Add about a cup of oil to each cylinder through the spark plug hole and manually turn the engine over a couple of times by turning the rear wheel in top gear. Put the plugs back in.

Ditch the battery.

When it wakes up, the tires may be dry-rotted, or hardened.

[mmmalmberg]

Ditto on the tires - be careful on them when you break it out of storage, they may not be quite safe. I've heard it's best to let the air out of them - anyone else confirm this? Only other thing I can say is the rustiest one of my bikes ever got was when I covered it with a really good waterproof cover for the winter and it was in a humid environment; the cover trapped the humidity under it and rusted parts that had lasted years outdoors with no problem... You want some ventilation under the cover if possible...

[StevesGarage]

My 2 cents:

If stored on concrete, put some type of vapor barrier between the bike and the floor. A blue tarp is o.k., but I prefer clear 4 mil plastic so I can see who or what might be underneath.

Oh and you can find 'bronze wool' in the dishsoap section of Walmart. First time I went looking for it, the guy at the hardware store looked at me like I was nuts.

--Steve

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Oh and you can find 'bronze wool' in the dishsoap section of Walmart.

Bronze Wool: http://tinyurl.com/bronze-wool

[seniorasi]

http://www.montecristo-moto.com/

Montécristo Motorcycle Storage Procedure

# 1. Run the engine until hot.
# 2. While the engine is running close the gas valves, and let the engine die by fuel starvation.
# 3. With the engine still hot, drop the old oils and filters and replace.
# 4. Fill up the gas tank to about 75% of it's capacity with fresh gasoline. Then add 1/4 liter of engine oil to the gas, close the tank filler cap and shake well.
# 5.Remove the spark plugs then drop in the spark plug holes 1 oz of new engine oil per hole. Before refitting the plugs crank over the engine a few seconds. The oil in the cylinders will prevent piston ring seizure.
# 6. Remove the battery from the motorcycle and store it in a warm place. Trickle charge the battery once a month.
# 7. Reduce the air pressure in the tires to 15 lbs. Place the motorcycle on it's center stand or on a suitable block.
# 8. To protect the painted body parts of the motorcycle, a good quality automotive type wax should be applied.
# 9. The rubber parts can also be protected from cracking by wiping them with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Avoid applying brake fluid on the tires riding surfaces. Be careful not to spill any of this fluid on painted areas as it can damage them.
# 10. It is higly recomended to fit a storage cover (canvas) over the motorcycle during storage time.
# 11. If the storage area is to be damp at some time, special care should be taken to protect the bare metal and chrome areas by wiping them with a light soft grease or heavy oil. The alloy part can be protected by smearing them with WD40 type lubricants. Remember that before you restart the engine this grease should be thoroughly cleaned.
# 12. Take the extra time to grease and lube:

* the steering head bearings
* the swing arm pivot bushing or bearings
* the front and rear wheel bearings and axels
* the drive chain

With the storage of your motorcyle well prepared, you should have a worry free restart. If needed we can also supply you with a Restart Procedure upon request.

I take exception to the Dot 3 and WD-40 statements in your suggestions. Silicone lubricant is far better than brake fluid for rubber and won't dry out nearly as quickly. Brake fluid will attack the rubber not designed to be compatible with that substance. The active ingredient in WD 40 is the same as super glue. Try coating your finest feeler gauges or a really good micrometer with WD 40, place it in a tool box drawer and forget about it for a few years. I'll guarantee you'll be really pissed when you go to use it again. This is the voice of experience you are hearing.:blah

[AnnapolisAirhead]

+1 on the brake fluid being bad for rubber. That's not a good idea.

Wouldn't the gas/oil mixture in the tank separate rather rapidly, like in a matter of hours? :scratch

I didn't know about WD-40 long term....yikes. I've switched from WD-40 to using Kroil (gun oil) or SiliKroil (silicon) lubricant. It creeps everywhere and it seems to work long term on my pistols.

I still keep WD-40, but just for minor things, usually not on the bike. :dance

[Kirbster919]

Back when I was interested in classic cars, a company made a kit that involved a 100% sealed bag that you would drive the car into. Before sealing it up, you would place this bucket of a certain solid in the bag. The solid would absorb any moisture left in with the car, and continue absorbing any small amounts of moisture that may seep in. I don't remember the product's name, but I'm sure it could be found with some research.

[seniorasi]

My 2 cents:

If stored on concrete, put some type of vapor barrier between the bike and the floor. A blue tarp is o.k., but I prefer clear 4 mil plastic so I can see who or what might be underneath.

Oh and you can find 'bronze wool' in the dishsoap section of Walmart. First time I went looking for it, the guy at the hardware store looked at me like I was nuts.

--Steve

So what do you use if you are storing the bike on dirt or gravel?

[tghsmith]

the bike bag system might work http://www.caresecrets.com/cycle_shield

[R80andR100RT]

Cover it with a canvas drop cloth you can get from Lowes or a paint store. Its breathable.