HEXHEAD Tech - R1200RT - Brake Fluid Change, 2007-current

[Semper_Fi]

The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.

Lastly, please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner. Most Auto Parts stores and service stations will accept used oil and lubricants, tires and batteries, please check for your local availability.

NOTE - you will be generating up to a pint or so of waste brake fluid, please ensure you dispose of in an environmentally responsible manner.
RECYCLE NOTE: for proper disposal of waste fluid please refer to this link to find approved recycling centers in your area http://earth911.com/ - special thanks to Ted for providing the link.

NOTE - you will be working near and with brake dust, recommend that you use gloves to protect your hands and a dust mask to protect your lungs.

NOTE - brake fluid DAMAGES paint - please ensure all work areas are properly protected in the event of a spill

This article, text and photos are Copyright of the individual authors and the BMW MOA, any copying or redistributing is permitted only by prior written authorization.

[Semper_Fi]

Tools Needed:

Referencing the picture below and starting from the top:

- 3/8" drive click type torque wrench

- 3/8" drive T spanner (optional)

- 8mm Combination wrench

- 6 mm Combination wrench

- 3/8" drive flexible rachet

- T45 Torx Socket

- 3" 3/8" extention

- small straight blade screwdriver

- 6" straight blade screwdriver

- 2 3/8" extensions (optional)

- #2 Phillips

- 1 can of DOT 4 Brake Fluid

- Mighty Vac, or equivalent

- 2mm id tube with adaptor - used for the Front Brake Master Cylinder

Note - purchased tubing at pet store - used commonly for fish tanks

[Semper_Fi]

Brake Fluid Replacement Procedure Overview.

This procedure addresses replacing the fluid in 4 specific locations.

Following the order as indicated in the repair CD you

- Fluid replacement of the Front Brake Reservoir

- Fluid replacement of the Right then Left Front Calipers

- Fluid repacement of the Rear Brake Reservoir

- Fluid replacement of the Rear Caliper

[Semper_Fi]

FLUID REPLACEMENT - FRONT RESERVIOR


Place bike on centerstand in a smooth and level location.

Prep the area to be worked on - as brake fluid can damage paint, i use a full towel and cover the whole area as shown

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Set the brake lever to maximum span.

First write down the orginal span setting

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Push lever forward and then adjust the wheel to the Number 4 positon

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The number 4 position is the maximum span setting

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Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove these four screws

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Once the screws are removed, remove the cover.

Note - you may find the cover difficult to remove especially if this is the first time taking the cover off.

What I did to remove my cover was to use a small straight slot screwdriver and very gently twist to pry up, it did not take alot of force - just enough to break the seal.

[Semper_Fi]

Remove the cover and set aside.

I also seperated the rubber inner gasket from the back of the cover to be able to clean it prior to re-assembly

[Semper_Fi]

Nasty fluid - this is about year and a half old fluid

IMPORTANT NOTE - if you are not replacing your brake pads at the same time of this fluid change - remember how much fluid the reservior has.

It is important at the final refill portion - so as not to overfill the reservior.

[Semper_Fi]

Remove the fluid using a mighty vac or similar device.

Please note that i did not completely remove all the fluid, as i did not want the fill hole to be uncovered.

[Semper_Fi]

Now the actual fluid replacement process begins.

Using an UNOPENED bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid fill the reservoir (most mechanics will not use fluid from a bottle that has been opened previously. They feel the fluid starts to go bad as soon as the seal on the bottle is broken.)

Note - brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture once exposed to air. As water is absorbed it lowers the boiling point of the fluid. Keep the bottle tightly capped when it's not being used.

Below is what I used. DO not use DOT-5, its silicone based and not recommended for ABS equipped brake systems. Some people use DOT 5.1 - which is a better version of DOT-4 and is fully compatible with DOT-4. DOT 5.1 has a higher boiling temperature. BMW suggests using DOT-4.

[Semper_Fi]

Once you have refilled the front reservior with fresh fluid it is time now to bleed the reservior.

Note - the bleed nipple on the reservior is smaller than the ones on the brake calipers, therefore I needed to get smaller tubing than I had. I went to my local pet store and in the Fish deprtment I selected some 2mm ID tubing.

I then used one of the assorted couplings in the mighty vac and created this section of tubing.

There are other solutions - this is what I had on hand

[Semper_Fi]

To bleed the reservior, connect the small ID tubing to the reservior nipple.

Using a 6mm combination wrench, open the nipple a little bit and apply vaccum to draw the old fluid out.

Set up shown below:

[Semper_Fi]

Continue applying vaccum and filling the reservior until the fluid being extracted is clear.

DO NOT let the fluid get too low as this will allow air into the system and you have a lot more work ahead of you to clear it

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Clean fluid being extracted from reservior, compare fluid color difference with picture above.

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At this point - secure bleed nipple and if the reservoir is low put enough fluid in to ensure there is no chance of air getting into the system.

DO NOT FILL TO THE TOP - the next steps involve opening up the brake pads - this will force fluid up into the reservior - if it is full you will have a mess. As a point of interest the above pictures shows how much fluid I had when I secured the reservoir nipple.

NOTE - the tightening torque for the reservoir nipple is 2Nm - I set it hand tight.

[Semper_Fi]

FLUID REPLACEMENT RIGHT/LEFT CALIPER

The next steps in fluid replacement for the front brakes are to replace the fluid in the calipers and lines.

To do this BMW uses some really cool tools to push back and hold the pads open to push out the fliud.

If interested the tool part numbers are 341531 and 341532 - as I have no intention of getting these tools, I subsituted by removing the calipers to push back and hold the pads in place.

To remove the calipers use a T-45 Torx.

Remove the two bolts highlighted below:

[Semper_Fi]

Once the screws are out you can remove the caliper by twisting the caliper so that the pads can be spread a little using the disc.

You do not have to twist too much - just enough to spread the pads to clear the disc and remove.

[Semper_Fi]

Now you need to pry back the pads.

I used my hi-tech 6" straight slot screwdriver - use what ever you are comfortable with.

[Semper_Fi]

The next step is to hold the pads back in place., starting with the Right side caliper

I was able to use a 3/8" drive extension (the socket male end) to fit in nicely without damaging the pad.

Please note that this may not work all the time depending on pad thickness due to wear - in that case you need to solve that problem.

Double check the level of fluid in the reservoir - if getting too high get rid of some because you need to do the same thing to the left side caliper

[Semper_Fi]

Do the same for the left side.

PROCESS NOTE - please note that the ABS sensor cable is attached to the left brake line.

The is no need to remove it - just be aware it is there

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Left caliper held open

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Now that both calipers are held open you can begin vaccum bleeding the caliper.

The set up I used is shown below.

You will need an 8mm wrench for the caliper nipple.

FLUID REPLACEMENT PROCESS -

1 - Remove fluid from reservoir on handle bar and replace with new fluid
2 - connect vaccum device to bleed nipple
3 - open bleed nipple and start vaccum
4 - check fluid level in reservoir - do not allow to drain completely
5 - continue steps 3 and 4 until clear fluid is being extracted.
6 - close off bleed nipple
7 - top off reservoir

Repeat for other side


PROCESS NOTE 1 - as a personal preference I remove the rubber nipple covers to be able to properly access the nipple.

PROCESS NOTE 2 - the standard tubing included with the Mighty Vac - fit ok onto the nipple but not snugly enough to prevent asmall amount air leakage - when extracting the fluid there were some bubbles noted in the stream. For next fluid replacement I will get some smaller tubing for a snugger fit. The tubing ID use on the front reservior was too small for use on the caliper nipple.

[Semper_Fi]

The set up for the left caliper.

Repeat process again

FLUID REPLACEMENT PROCESS -

1 - connect vaccum device to bleed nipple
2 - open bleed nipple and start vaccum
3 - check fluid level in reservoir - do not allow to drain completely
4 - continue steps 3 and 4 until clear fluid is being extracted.
5 - close off bleed nipple

After mount the calipers back onto the fork tubes.

[Semper_Fi]

After mounting the right and left caliper torque the bolts to 30 Nm.

At this point we need to prepare for a manual bleed.

1 - with both calipers properly mounted and torqued squeeze the front brake lever repeatedly until the brake pads make contact with the disc.

MAINTAIN a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir to ensure it does not go too low.

The manual bleed set up I used is shown below

[Semper_Fi]

Front Brake Manual Bleed

The closing portion is to do a manual bleed of the front brake at the caliper - this is to ensure no air managed to enter the system during vacuum evacuation.

Process for Right Side Manual Bleed

1 - Pump lever a few times (3 to 4 times should be enough) until you have solid resistance.

2 - while maintaining pressure on the lever - open the bleed screw slightly - and observe color of fluid being expelled

3 - tighten the bleed screw BEFORE LETTING GO OF THE LEVER - I can not stress this enough as there is a potential for air injestion.

4 - Repeat steps 1-3 until clear fluid is extracted - please keep an eye on your reservior fluid level.

NOTE - It took me 3 repeats of the above steps to get clear liquid - this is not to say to do it only 3 times, but rather it did not take many repetitions to achieve the desired results.


Process for Left Side Manual Bleed

Note - it is extremely helpful to have an assitant support you in this actiity - they can do the hand lever and watch the fluid level, while you do the bleeding at the caliper.

1 - Pump lever a few times (3 to 4 times should be enough) until you have solid resistance.

2 - while maintaining pressure on the lever - open the bleed screw slightly - and observe color of fluid being expelled

3 - tighten the bleed screw BEFORE LETTING GO OF THE LEVER - I can not stress this enough as there is a potential for air injestion.

4 - Repeat steps 1-3 until clear fluid is extracted - please keep an eye on your reservior fluid level.

NOTE - It took me 3 repeats of the above steps to get clear liquid - this is not to say to do it only 3 times, but rather it did not take many repetitions to achieve the desired results.


Close off caliper bleed screws. - BMW stated torque is 5Nm - I did them hand tight

[Semper_Fi]

Bleed Nipple Cover Installion

If you did not remove the bleed nipple covers continue directly to the Final Reservoir Fill

Else see below:

The nipple cover has a small rubber ring which fits onto a groove in the bleed nipple.

[Semper_Fi]

Slightly over stretch the circular portion of cover and fit it over the nipple onto the groove.

Do not over stretch as it can break

[Semper_Fi]

Clean nipple and press on to cover

[Semper_Fi]

FINAL RESERVOIR FILL

After the calipers have been manually bled we fill up the reservoir one final time.

Picture below shows the max fill level marker inside the reservoir body.

Important note - if you are not replacing your brake pads at this time remeber to fill the reservoir to the orginal value else you have a good change of over filling the reservoir.

[Semper_Fi]

Clean off rubber gasket and install into reservoir

[Semper_Fi]

SPILLAGE :banghead - oh well slightly miss-calulated - clean off and draw some fluid out - try again

[Semper_Fi]

Put cover on and tighten #2 Phillips screws securely

[Semper_Fi]

Once the screws are in - I wipe off the area and do a few pulls of the brake lever to check for any additonal leaks and that I do have a functioning brake lever.

If everything is all set then we can proceed to do the rear brakes.

[Semper_Fi]

FLUID REPLACEMENT REAR BRAKE RESERVOIR

Prepare the work area by

1 - remove seats

2 - remove right side saddle bag

The process for the rear brake will be the same as it was for the front.

1 - Empty the reservior of the old fluid and slightly fill

2 - remove rear caliper and push back pads

3 - remove old fluid from reservoir and refill slightly

4 - install caliper and bleed until clear.

Below is shown where the rear caliper reservoir is located.

[Semper_Fi]

Rear reservoir fluid removal set up

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After the old fluid is removed - add some new fluid back in to just cover enough not to allow air in.

Remove the rear caliper as shown below with a T45.

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Remove the rear caliper off its mounts and push the pads back in a similar way as done with the front.

Again there are special BMW tools specific for this application.

SPECIAL NOTE - the front brake lever also actuates the rear brake - ensure that neither the brake pedal or the brake lever is activated as this may can push the pads out

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Remove fluid out of reservoir that was expelled into it from the caliper.

Refill about half way and install the rear caliper.

Install the screws for proper thread engagment abnd then torque to 24Nm

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Once caliper is installed set up for a vaccum bleed as set up below.

Conduct the vaccum bleed until clear fluid is extracted.

Always be monitoring your reservoir fluid level so you do not pull it too low.

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Once you have successfully obtained clear fluid thru the vaccum extraction, close off the bleed nipple and set up for a manual bleed.

This again is done to ensure that there was no air introduced into the line during the vacuum bleed.

Process.

1 - press brake pedal several times until you have firm resistance.

2 - make sure you have sufficient fluid level.

3 - while maintain pressure on the brake pedal open up the bleed screw

4 - inspect color of brake fluid being extracted.

5 - tighten the bleed screw BEFORE LETTING GO OF THE PEDAL - I can not stress this enough as there is a potential for air injestion

6 - repeat steps 1 - 5 until clear brake fluid is removed.

PROCESS NOTE - the bleed nipple cover for the rear caliper does not have a securing ring as the front ones do - therefore when you remove it - don't lose it

[Semper_Fi]

After clear fluid is extracted from the mounted and torqued rear caliper, fill the rear brake reservoir to the max level as shown below.

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Once the rear reservoir is full, close it up.

Install seats and saddle bags.

FINAL INSPECTION

1 - confirm full, firm brake lever and brake pedal action - if not then that brake set needs to be bled again

2 - confirm no leaks - if any leaks at all they must be identified and corrected

3 - with items 1 and 2 succesfully met - take bike off center stand.

4 - test brakes while straddling the bike

5 - go for a road test, no issues you are done

Go for a ride :dance clean up later!!!!

[deilenberger]

NOTE - the procedure outlined by Luis is for models with the integral brake reservoir on the front brake master cylinder. Other models such as the R1200R and R1200GS use a different design for the front cylinder, and the bleed/flush process is slightly different. When we have an opportunity, the difference will be documented.

PLEASE ONLY DO THIS JOB IF YOU ARE COMPETENT WITH TOOLS - Brake Failure is a very bad thing to happen to anyone!

Thanks again to Luis for an excellent and detailed DIY! :clap