Home Made Airhead Tools

[lonelobo]

I'm in the middle of digging through my Airhead and being the frugal type (ie. not possessing disposable income) I have need of creative ideas concerning all the specialized tools that make servicing Airheads easier and less of a chore. However, I have not found a depository or thread for just home made tools. I come across good ideas all the time buried in threads about doing this bit of maintenance or that rebuild. But then when I need to find them they seem to vanish into internet ether. Please post your clever cheap specialized tool solutions to this thread so there is a common depository for said invaluable information. Pics are most certainly needed here. A verbose description just doesn't do it for a bonehead like me. I will deposit any pics I find of solutions I find on the web AFTER getting permission from the owner of said pics and I encourage every other Airhead to do the same. A home made tool is a terrible thing to waste. I encourage those of you with lesser models of BMW's to start a similar thread IN YOU OWN FORUM!!!

[airhead78]

Fantastic idea, solowolf!

[sumran]

If you need to set an output seal on a transmission, a 2 inch PVC coupling works well. No modification needed.

[seniorasi]

I need transmission tools, final drive tools, and, well ok I did buy a junk bike and I'll end up rebuilding virtually every moving part on the bike so if it's a tool for a 1983 R100RT I'll need the tool. This thread is an awesome idea!:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap

[RecycledRS]

An old socket and 3/8 drive used to make this transmission output wrench tool<a href="http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p285/79cafe/?action=view&current=BMWtools003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p285/79cafe/BMWtools003.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Kept the socket and drive 2" apart to ease torque calculations.

[RecycledRS]

An other tool I made was a combination exhaust wrench and front bearing carrier puller. 1/4" aluminum plate, careful tracing of the exhaust nut and about an hour on the band saw and hand file produced this tool. Tool fits in the bike tool case and I can use a hammer or rock from the side of the road to tap the tool around.

<a href="http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p285/79cafe/?action=view&current=tools002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p285/79cafe/tools002.jpg" border="0" alt="exhaust wrench/carrier puller"></a>

[RecycledRS]

Clutch alignment tool is just a bit of 1/2" electrical tubing and a washer welded on each end.
<a href="http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p285/79cafe/?action=view&current=BMWtools004.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p285/79cafe/BMWtools004.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I've also made the rotor removal tool, its very easy to produce.
<a href="http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p285/79cafe/?action=view&current=BMWtools005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p285/79cafe/BMWtools005.jpg" border="0" alt="Rotor removal tool"></a>

I want to take the trans mission apart so may try and build the output flange puller next. This one will need to be very strong!

[lonelobo]

Hey RECYCLEDRS. Thanks for the posts. How did you machine off the threads for your rotor bolt? I don't have a mill.

[20774]

How did you machine off the threads for your rotor bolt? I don't have a mill.

You can buy this rotor pulling tool for less than $10 from Cycleworks. I think, in some cases, it's hard to justify building a tool when they come so cheap. Obviously, if you don't have a mill, that becomes a problem. There is an alternative, though. Joe 'Cuda posted information on making your own rotor removal tool. It's at http://www.airheads.org/content/view/194/98/.

[RecycledRS]

Hey RECYCLEDRS. Thanks for the posts. How did you machine off the threads for your rotor bolt? I don't have a mill.

The tubing I used is EMT (the thin wall tubing, has no threads).

[sumran]

Hey RECYCLEDRS. Thanks for the posts. How did you machine off the threads for your rotor bolt? I don't have a mill.

If you decide to make a rotor puller it must be hardened steel. Otherwise, it can cause problems for the puller and the bike. The first one I bought bent. I bought a hardened one from Rick at Motorrad http://www.motoelekt.com/goodstuff.htm for $5. Worked great on the same rotor that bent the other one. I agree with Kurt that this one might be better to buy.

Love the thread.

[lonelobo]

Just a friendly bump for those who don't come around often.

[seniorasi]

Just a friendly bump for those who don't come around often.

What's a bump?

[20774]

What's a bump?

A post to bring the thread up to the top... bada bump...

[Polarbear]

I made mine from quarter inch steel stock, about three inches wide by two feet long. Cut 4 bolt holes with a drill and the center large hole with a torch. Mount the tool in a large VISE and bolt the tranny flange to it and the nut can be removed with a large breaker bar at 175 ft.lbs. of pull:). A good rap on the loosened flange is usually needed to getr loose. Its an interference fit, no key. Randy:thumb

[Bill Burke]

If you decide to make a rotor puller it must be hardened steel.
I had a spare 6mm allen wrench (hardened steel). Have a machine shop cut a 2 and 1/8th inch section and grind off the sharp edges on the cut. Voila - you have a rotor removal tool. When it's time to remove the rotor: remove the stock rotor bolt, insert your "special tool" and reinsert and torque down your stock bolt until the rotor releases with a pop.

[skiteach]

I made mine from quarter inch steel stock, about three inches wide by two feet long. Cut 4 bolt holes with a drill and the center large hole with a torch. Mount the tool in a large VISE and bolt the tranny flange to it and the nut can be removed with a large breaker bar at 175 ft.lbs. of pull:). A good rap on the loosened flange is usually needed to getr loose. Its an interference fit, no key. Randy:thumb

Be careful! I peened the output shaft doing that. I was able to grind away the peen and salvage the threads. I tried several pullers and ended up taking the tranny to a dealer to replace the seal . An air impact wrench will remove the nut with ease. Still haven't figured out how to get flange off!

[sumran]

Be careful! I peened the output shaft doing that. I was able to grind away the peen and salvage the threads. I tried several pullers and ended up taking the tranny to a dealer to replace the seal . An air impact wrench will remove the nut with ease. Still haven't figured out how to get flange off!

The pullers I have seen all use the same method. An outer ring that is bolted to the driveshaft mounting holes on the flange with a center bolt that works against the end of the shaft. The fancy ones have a threaded insert that goes in the large opening of the holder. The homemade units I have used have a separate plate that fits on top of the holder. I leave the nut on the shaft to protect or clean the threads, but that proved an unnecessary precaution.

With a two piece unit you have to watch the bolts. If they are long enough to go through both pieces, it is easy to damage the output seal when you are working with just the holder.

[lonelobo]

This Thread is almost USELESS (to a bonehead like me) WITHOUT PICTURES!!!!!!! If you do not know how to upload a picture to post here, send it to the LoneLobo and I will do it for you. I learn better with pictures. Thanks guys for all the great posts.

[sumran]

This Thread is almost USELESS (to a bonehead like me) WITHOUT PICTURES!!!!!!! If you do not know how to upload a picture to post here, send it to the LoneLobo and I will do it for you. I learn better with pictures. Thanks guys for all the great posts.

:laugh Well I would, but someone else is using it.

[lonelobo]

Here's what I did when I found I didn't have a tool to lock the flywheel so I could remove it. Actually, you should only need one turnbuckle, depending on whether you are assembling or disassembling. I just like to over engineer when it's cheap.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2483/3666585564_7e4cde5e25_o_d.jpg

[lonelobo]

Easy peasy,
3 bolts, 8mmx50mm 1.0 thread (ie. fine thread)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3302/3665781171_a372e4e955_o_d.jpg

Remember to buy nuts and washers so you can tighten down on the clutch pak so you can remove the other 3 bolts. Then, just release the pressure with the nuts and then remove the bolts.

Reverse procedure for installation.

[seniorasi]

Easy peasy,
3 bolts, 8mmx50mm 1.0 thread (ie. fine thread)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3302/3665781171_a372e4e955_o_d.jpg

Remember to buy nuts and washers so you can tighten down on the clutch pak so you can remove the other 3 bolts. Then, just release the pressure with the nuts and then remove the bolts.

Reverse procedure for installation.


Cool idea! BTW, what is the mark for? (the extending from the spline to the outer edge)

[lonelobo]

Come on, guys! Am I the only one finding these work around tools? Or is this thread my lot in life?

Here's another one from:
http://bmwscotter.com/tools/oil_breather_pullers/oil_breather_pullers.htm

2. Modified Puller
http://bmwscotter.com/tools/oil_breather_pullers/gear_puller.jpg


This is a small bearing puller modified by replacing the three arms with three pieces of cut chain. These then loop under the spokes of the oil breather.
http://bmwscotter.com/tools/oil_breather_pullers/original_bearing_puller.jpg


A typical original bearing puller is this Harbor Freight item for $10 (June, 2006).

[20774]

BTW, what is the mark for? (the extending from the spline to the outer edge)

My guess is it's the mark to show how the parts were aligned before removal.

[20774]

2. Modified Puller

Nice, but it can be done much simpler with only some pieces of strong wire and a stout piece of wood while using leverage off the frame backbone. A couple of good pulls and the breather valve is out.