Basic landscape how-to?

[Sailorlite]

If, for example, you find yourself at one of the Angeles Crest Hwy's many scenic overlooks, you will often be looking southward into quite a bit of haze.

The shots I get there with several p-n-s digital cameras all seem to lose definition, overexpose the sky, lose some color, and in general are not very attractive. I can get some improvement if I remember to set the camera to "vivid" and then use the computer to enhance the image.

Lately I've been thinking it's time to give up on the p-n-s's and get my first DSLR camera (Nikon D40). That would be kind of an expensive experiment and I wouldn't want to find out that the fancier camera doesn't make much difference.

So, my question is: While I know that the photographer is more important than the camera, would a DSLR (maybe with a filter) be a significantly better solution to the scenery problems I mention above?

[wezul]

Perhaps consider a UV filter. Will cut down the haze and help with exposure.
There are also graduated half filters available, I believe.
More experienced photogs please chime in.

[SNC1923]

Can you post an example of what you're trying to avoid? Might help in making suggestions. Absent that, I would offer the following:

Try underexposing the photo a little bit. Your camera has an "EV" setting. Set it to -1/3 or so.

Try composing the images so that sky does not comprise a majority of the composition.

Try shooting these landscapes from a different perspective—on the ground—rather than a scenic turnout. Also, watch for a great weather day, following a rain or the Santa Anas that are so common to So. Cal.

Finally, if you do spring for a DSLR (which I would encourage), the only "special effects" filter you'll ever need (more or less) is a circular polarizer. Given the right angle of shooting, this will go a long way toward reducing the haze.

Good luck.

[ian408]

There are a couple of hints worth considering.

I do think the major component of a landscape is the notion of "near to far" meaning something interesting in the foreground that leads the eye to the background. If I may, I'd like to show you an example:

http://ian408.smugmug.com/photos/517443021_7GYtS-M.jpg

If look closely, you'll see the mist in the background. The foreground helps disguise that a little bit. This was taken with a dSLR. In the interest of disclosure, this is two images blended. One for the foreground exposure and one for the background.

Another technique is to use depth of field and feature something in the foreground. This is an extreme example of that but you get the idea.

http://ian408.smugmug.com/photos/515482413_iWKjv-M.jpg

With a P&S, as long as you can control the exposure either with EV compensation or full manual, you can make either of these pictures (really).

A polarizer or UV haze, you can reduce some of that misty/hazy look. There are also several techniques for getting rid of it using Photoshop. You cannot easily put filters on most P&S cameras so if you want to use one, you will need a lens that accepts filters--which means a dSLR.

If you feel your photography is progressing to the next level, then a dSLR is for you. There are many excellent choices these days.

Good luck!

[tommcgee]

The shots I get there with several p-n-s digital cameras all seem to lose definition, overexpose the sky, lose some color, and in general are not very attractive. I can get some improvement if I remember to set the camera to "vivid" and then use the computer to enhance the image.

You can also go back on a clear day.

[dancogan]

...
Try composing the images so that sky does not comprise a majority of the composition. ..
All good suggestions, but this one I think is very important, especially on days when the sky tends to be a bland gray color. On the camera it will show up as white. It's best to include as little sky as possible.

The DSLR will improve the quality of the overall picture, but it won't cure problems like the ones you're having. I will often use a split neutral density filter. The top half of the filter is a neutral gray that cuts down the exposure to the sky by 2 or 3 stops, and allows some definition in the sky (such as clouds) to show through, while the foreground is correctly exposed. Some good books on landscape or nature photography will help.