Dismantling a R69S - questions

[bikerfish1100]

Finally getting around to tackling my long-neglected '65 R69S project. Will be getting the frame stripped and powder-coated.
A few questions have arisen as parts are removed:
* Is a pin spanner readily available (Sears, HF. McMaster, etc?) for removal of the swingarm locating pins, or is that a specialty tool?
* Is there some special trick for removing the brake linkage assy off the threaded shaft of the brake pedal, or do i just need a bigger hammer (everything is disconnected from swing arm & rear hub, and large nut is also off).
* Dismantling of the Earles shocks requires some special tools (at elast according to my Clymer's)- is that really the case? Best source for new shock units?
* Tool/method for removing the rear shocks & shock caps?

tia

Joe

[marchyman]

* Is a pin spanner readily available (Sears, HF. McMaster, etc?) for removal of the swingarm locating pins, or is that a specialty tool?


Do you have the original toolkit? There is a pin spanner that can be used for the exhaust nuts. It also has two pins on the side that can be used for the swingarm pivot pins. If you don't have that tool see http://www.cycleworks.net/tools_chassis_wheels.htm and look for the "Multi-Pin body" plus the pin set for the /2.


* Is there some special trick for removing the brake linkage assy off the threaded shaft of the brake pedal, or do i just need a bigger hammer (everything is disconnected from swing arm & rear hub, and large nut is also off).


I started from the back and worked forward. I first removed the brake rod, then the bell crank from the swing-arm (the rear fender has to be removed first), then the bits connected to the brake pedal. All were held with nothing more than cotter pins and washers. The pedal is held with a star washer (I think) and a thin nut. There is a busing that comes out with the pedal. Looking at my notes I see that "I got most of the linkage apart save the thrust rod lever from the brake pedal. A bit of liquid wrench, a drift, and a rubber mallet took care of the stuck bits." http://www.snafu.org/restore/1998-10/page2.html


* Dismantling of the Earles shocks requires some special tools (at elast according to my Clymer's)- is that really the case? Best source for new shock units?


No, it can be disassembled and assembled without the tool. The tool makes assembly a bit easier. It's no more than a rod with a threaded end that screws into the end of the swingarm pivot. I screwed a bolt into the end of the axle then applied any needed force with a dead blow mallet on a rod pushing against the bolt to help in removal. Once the axle is unscrewed gentile taps should be all that is needed.


* Tool/method for removing the rear shocks & shock caps?


The shocks come off easy with a screwdriver and wrench. It's the shock cap that can cause problems. Heat helps, along with some Kroil or the like. Some taps to break any corrosion might help. It the worst case people have drilled the caps off to get to the shock. That same original tool kit pin wrench mentioned above fits the shock cap, too. When the cap is off it looks like this:

<img src="http://www.snafu.org/pics/moa/p-20010225-1608-1540.jpg" title="rear shock to frame">

Less the dead fly, of course. :D

Hope that helps.

[DarrylRi]

You can make a crude pin spanner with a short piece of 1x3 and two nails or decking screws. Carefully mark the distance between centers of the pin holes on the wood. Then drive the nails/screw the screws through at those locations. You could make a more durable version with some flat stock and two thin screws with nuts.

For the Earles shocks, you need to compress the telescoping covers and the spring inside to reveal the machined flats in the shaft that screws into the upper mount. BMW had a special tool for this, but it was expensive even in the era, and is really only necessary for a shop that is doing a lot of this work. Cycle Works (http://www.cycleworks.net) sells a shock compressor that is two machined aluminum plates that each fit over one end of the shock, and two long pieces of all-thread with nuts at either end. By tightening down the nuts, it draws the plates together and compresses the spring.

They also sell a pin wrench for your swingarm and another for the hub nuts on the wheels. In fact, they have a lot of great tools for the /2, depending on how deep you're going. They also sell a lot of the supplies you may need, too.