Replacing valve adjuster screw and nut.

[Oldhway]

Ok, first a confession. I am a ham fisted yutz and the previous owner was probably the same.

Checking my valve clearances I found that I have a stripped intake side valve lash adjuster screw and nut on the right cylinder of my 1995 R100RT.

It looks like I have to pull the rocker to replace it. Looks straight forward and I can probably ease it back on the studs enough to have clearance without removing it fully (at TDC).

Is there anything special or unexpected to deal with here?


Thanks for the group expertise.

[CTellman]

I screwed one up experimenting with a new torque wrench I wanted to buy. (Returned it and still can't find one . . ) Anyway the adjustment screw is easy to remove. I don't remember if the valve gear has to be separated from the head, just loosened. I am an average mechanic who uses Clymer's and asks lots of questions. The screw is about $15.
Good luck.
Campbell Tellman II
'93 R100RT
:thumb

[sumran]

I would be wary of loosening the stud nuts on one side of the head. You could probably leave the short bolts at the 12 an 6 o'clock positions tight, but I would loosen the four stud bolts together, in increments in a criss cross pattern. Retorque the same way. I may be worried about nothing, but heads are expensive.

[crazydrummerdude]

The PO of my R90 stripped 2 of them.. and I didn't find out until I was getting ready to get it running for the fist time in 25 years.

I loosened the head up, like sumran said, and took the offending rocker(s) off. I was able to remove the nut however I cared, because the threads no longer mattered on that bolt. To save the threads in the rocker itself, I backed out the bolt as far as it would go (think; giving max valve clearance) since the damaged threads are near the end of the bolt. I then used a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder to cut off the bad-thread end of the bolt. Finally, I could remove it from the rocker with no damage.

Twice.