Little GS, Big Adventure - F650GS to Alaska from Philly leaving 5/21

[jhbfly]

So, I’m finally doing it again. Another big transcontinental trip. Ever since finding my way to Spokane for the 2004 MOA Rally I’ve yearned to make another BIG North American trip. That trip becomes reality starting next Thursday, May 21 – out the driveway in Malvern, PA and on the way again. Destination, Anchorage, Alaska by June 5th. Mapquest says it’s about 4400 miles. By the time I get there I’m pretty sure it’ll be close to 5000 miles. Route will take me to Detroit, where I lived for over 30 years, the first day (600 “slab” miles.) I’ll spend a day with Michigan friends, then the trip will really begin. My hope is to get to Dawson Creek, at the head of the Alaska Highway in one week and then on to Anchorage the second week. In Anchorage I’ll be joined by my wife and another couple for a week of “touristy” travel (Denali, Fairbanks, etc) by train and car. Then at the end of the week I’ll shovel everyone onto an airplane and I myself will commence to find my way back home by a considerable less direct route. Is there anyone out there with great destination and routing ideas for that return leg? Also, I’d be interested in knowing about any meets, rallies or the like on the way out or back. I’m thinking of the AK highway to Watson Lake then south to Prince George, BC then on Southward to re-enter the US at Seattle. From Seattle Eastbound who really knows. I need to be back home to the Philly area by about July 3. I did the 2004 trip on an R1150RT but for this one I’m headed out on a 2009 F650GS twin. I’m really looking forward to traveling on the lighter GS. I plan to regularly post stories and pics here while on the road. Anyone who is interested can also follow my trip on my blog at http://www.2wheels2alaska.com
Jack Broomall
Malvern, PA
#65086

[BubbaZanetti]

:lurk

welcome to the forum :thumb

[jhbfly]

Thanks Derek. I Think I'm gonna have fun here (and on the road too!
Jack:bikes

[SIBUD]

Well, that's a pretty good first post!

Good luck. Looking forward to reading about your adventures. :wave

[Beemer01]

Leaving Chicago 5-21 aiming for the Yukon. Riding a bright yellow 1150GS, Illinois plates.

[AKBeemer]

Jack,

Another welcome. Look me up when you are in Fairbanks; my email is k.huddy@uaf.edu. Too bad your not riding up here as well. I suspect you may already have housing lined up, but if not check out this thread.

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34373

[jhbfly]

Thanks everyone for the kind welcomes.

For Beemer01, looks like I'll be a couple of days behind you. Where are u headed in the Yukon? I'll probably spend one night in Whitehorse on the way up and also returning.

To AKBeemer, Thanks on the tip for Fairbanks lodging at the university. We are all set for the portion of the trip in Fairbanks with wife and friends. However it's still an open possibility to head back up to Fairbanks (and perhaps farther North!) on the return trip. Will keep it in mind and try to drop u a line when I'm in FBK.

Ride safe, have fun!

Jack Broomall

[jhbfly]

My ride to Alaska is going to "officially" start from RevZilla Motorsports (http://www.revzilla.com), 38 Jackson St, Philadelphia, PA 19148 on Wednesday, May 20, at 1:30 PM If you're in the Philly area come on out and say hi! More info at http://www.2wheels2alaska.com
Hoping to see Philly area motorcyclists there to support me and my favorite charity The Austin Hatcher Foundation (http://www.hatcherfoundation.org)
Ride safe,
Jack :wave

[xp8103]

Jack,
Best of luck to you! Keep good notes, I see an ON chronicle in the near future!

[jhbfly]

I'm working pretty hard to make sure this trip is documented, chronicled, and shared both completely and, as far as possible, in real time. (and having fun doing so!)

[Statdawg]

Jack

What is harder preparing for, the Speed Record or sorting out this venture ?

Best of luck and we will be riding with you. :thumb

[Brettendress]

If you have the opportunity on the way home don't miss Red Lodge Montana, up to bear tooth pass, and the chief Joseph highway into Cody Wyoming and Yellowstone. If you are coming that way you can also catch Glacier Nat park before this and the bad lands in South Dakota after. All part of a ride I did a few years ago and really loved these areas. Also if you forgot anything stop in Altoona pa on the way i'm sure I have spares lol.

Brett Endress
Altoona pa

[jhbfly]

Jack

What is harder preparing for, the Speed Record or sorting out this venture ?

Best of luck and we will be riding with you. :thumb

Geez, that's a tough question. They are SO different. The Bonneville thing is all about making 2 more horsepower on the dyno, picking the correct gearing, tweaking your tucked seating position around to get even "smaller". figuring out how to get less drag out of wheel bearings and brake hardware, ad infinitum.......and all this for a ride that only lasts about 20 seconds through the flying mile. The cross country adventure stuff adds the dimensions of navigation, serving as a travel agent, dealing with oblivious drivers of cages while they text message, the vagaries of weather and road conditions, fatigue, and the simple fact that the whole enterprise last a whole lot longer! Different as they are, however, they both begin by formulating a goal, and then following through with a well thought out plan. Hopefully my plan for the Alaska trip works out as well as the Bonneville thing did in 2008! Thanks for following and for the good wishes!
Jack Broomall

[motorman587]

If I were on a GS I would do the haul road to Prudoe Bay/Deadhorse and then jump in the Arctic Ocean. You have to do back ground check which has a 24 hour return. The area up there is owned by oil companys, so you can not directly jump in the water. The sight sounds and smell is nothing that you can read about as you travel the couple hundred miles of gravel road. You can and will see all types of wild life up there.

Another place that puts a dot on the map for me is Hyder Alaska. Eat at the bus and then go to the Glacier Inn and get "Hyderized".

[jhbfly]

Prudhoe Bay is, for sure, on my "possible" list. I can't do it on the way North because I'm kinda on a schedule to get to Anchorage to meet with wife and others. On the other hand, after I put them all on an airplane headed home I've got a bit more discretionary time. That would be my chance to make a shot at the Arctic Ocean, or at least Coldfoot and the Arctic Circle. I Will wait till I'm up there to decide based on weather, etc. Life sure is full of possibilities, no?

[terham]

Good luck on your trip Jack, I'll be following along. :thumb

[ST Paul]

I went Prudhoe bay in 2004 on a R1150GS, I think your bike is much better.
You will really like Coldfoot, food and bar is great.

[jhbfly]

Thanks Terence and St Paul for the good wishes. Not much left now but to get on the bike and do it. Tomorrow (Wed 5/20) will be pretty busy. I'm gonna take off from home and ride the 80+ miles (in the WRONG direction!) to the New Jersey shore accompanied by long time riding buddy and partner in crime, Don Verdiani. There I'll briefly dip my toe in the Atlantic Ocean (55 degrees they tell me ....brrrrrrr) and photo document same. This will validate the claim that this ride is truly "coast to coast." Then I'll turn around (ok, maybe a brief stop for salt water taffy)and come back to Philadelphia for a 1:30 PM get together at RevZilla Motorsports (http://www.revzilla.com). Friends, supporters and interested parties are all invited to the store to chat about the ride, the bike, long distance travel, the charity that my ride supports - The Austin Hatcher Foundation (http://www.hatcherfoundation.org), and to check out the absolutely blazin' hot ride gear in the RevZilla showroom. The RevZilla store is at 38 Jackson St., Philadelphia, 19148.I sure hope some friends, new and old, can make it. Looks like a perfect day to ride! By 3:00 I'll be headed out for real, this time headed in the proper direction - North and West. The short ride back to my home in Suburban Philly will end what I'd calling Day 0. Thursday the real mileage thrash begins with the 600 mile leg to Michigan! I'm excited. The long awaited trip is really here!!!

[jhbfly]

Day 0 - Wednesday May 20
Start: Ocean City , NJ
End Malvern, PA
Trip Miles Today: 93
Total Trip Miles: 93

We're off! Quick trip to the Jersey Shore to claim "Coast to Coast" then back to Philly for a little get together at RevZilla Motorsports (http://www.revzilla.com) RevZilla was kind enough to make a donation to The Austin Hatcher Foundation (http://www.hatcherfoundation.com). A video guy from the CBS TV outlet in Philly was there to capture it, and the ride was the subject of a short segment on CBS3 news at 6:00PM tonight!. Back home now going through the throes of hysterical, mad, packing! Off to Detroit tomorrow for the start of the "real" miles (600 miles-all highway). Hope that nice weather you see in the pics holds! More tomorrow.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/541835394_dM8SH-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/541834482_MKKJY-M-1.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/541837405_q3xL8-M.jpg

[HFD190]

Good luck, have a safe trip!

In your first post you stated that you were planning on re-entry back into the US in Seattle. I would highly recommend that you consider taking the ferry from Victoria BC to Port Angeles, WA instead. Olympic National Park is there, it’s one of those “off the beaten path” locations that’s absolutely beautiful. Hurricane Ridge is just outside of town and depending on time you could travel 101 west out of Port Angeles and then follow the Pacific coast south until you get back to the Olympia area.

[jhbfly]

Day 1 – Thursday May 21, 2009
Start: Malvern, PA
End: Novi, MI
Trip Miles Today: 555
Total Trip Miles: 648.5


It's pretty hard to make an adventure of a 550 mile ride on Toll Roads! Suffice to say the day was without drama. Bike and gear performed flawlessly in perfect weather. The F650GS is getting about 55mpg at a steady 70-75 mpg even with those big bags hanging out there. Hardly the optimum aero package!

I will stand down in Michigan Friday to visit with friends, then head out bound for Wisconsin Saturday AM. Hope the nice weather holds! Enjoy the pics and ride safe, Jack.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/542903212_BC2VJ-S.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/542903599_PPQPX-S.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/542903700_s2KwU-S.jpg

[osceola]

Jack,
Best wishes for a great safe ride! Went to Alaska from Chicago in 1984 on a 1980 R100RT. It was a trip I wanted to do all my life. I've gone lots of places after that too. I've had some serious health issues in the last year and I don't think I'll be doing any long distance riding again but it's great to read about yours!:clap

[jhbfly]

Day 2 – Friday May 22, 2009
Start: Novi, MI
End: Novi, MI
Trip Miles Today: 146
Total Trip Miles: 792

Not much to report today. Friday was always planned to be a down day in Michigan to visit with old friends. Rode a surprising amount just hopping around from place to place and to peoples homes. Now the serious business of riding hundreds of miles each day on the way up to Anchorage begins. I'm off to Wisconsin today in (amazingly) another good weather day. Yahoo!
:clap

[jhbfly]

Day 3 – Saturday May 23, 2009
Start: Novi, MI
End: Edgerton, WI
Trip Miles Today: 427
Total Trip Miles: 1218

After a 400+ mile day I'm in Wisconsin and rapidly moving NW. The weather is cooperating amazingly well with nary a sign of rain yet. If the weather channel is to believed I will be good for another day or two before I stand a chance of getting wet. Visited an old country airport in Brodhead, WI and then spent some time with a friend nearby. At least I finally got off the interstates and on to some interesting roads. On Sunday, on the recommendation of a friend who knows the area well, I plan to ride the Wisconsin backroads from where I am now in the general direction of Lacross WI and the Mississippi valley. Reputed to be the best riding roads in the state. To Minnesota and (hopefully) beyond on Sunday!!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/544041195_N5WjR-S.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/544041927_tjs6D-M.jpg

[wezul]

Hey, you're in the neighborhood . . . . sorta.
Great adventure, may the Gods of travel smile on you.
Maybe you will run into Bryan (Beemer01) along the way. Have ridden with him, good guy.
Enjoy your journey!

[jhbfly]

Day 4 - Sunday May 24, 2009
Start: Edgerton, WI
End: St. Cloud, MN
Trip Miles Today: 454
Total Trip Miles: 1672

Finally, today I spent all morning on the wonderful Wisconsin secondary roads. NW from the Janesville area to the Frank Lloyd Wright home , Taliesin, near Madison. Then West to the Mississippi River and North to Lacrosse where I , once again got on the Interstate. Neat stop this afternoon in Austin Minnesota at the Spam Museum (the Hormel food product, not email trash!). It's a cute little museum just off I90 and worth the stop! Then more miles to my overnight at St Cloud , MN. North Dakota and beyond tomorrow. Looks like I may get wet for the first time this trip. Still planning on Dawson Creek and mile "0" of the Alaska Highway by Friday.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/544934623_RRx3E-M-1.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/544935376_kVEqD-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/544936408_Y2bhh-M.jpg

[jhbfly]

Day 5 – Monday May 25, 2009
Start: St. Cloud, MN
End: Dickinson, ND
Trip Miles Today: 453
Total Trip Miles: 2125


Day 6 – Tuesday May 26, 2009
Start: Dickinson, ND
End: Shelby, MT
Trip Miles Today: 501
Total Trip Miles: 2626


Days 5 & 6 were, in truth mostly about getting in position to start the part of the ride that I'm really excited about - Canada and the North! I managed to cover nearly a thousand miles in two days but it's hard to get jazzed about describing hundreds of miles on I-94 across North Dakota and Montana. It wasn't all tedium however. I did, however, make time to see "Sue - The World's Largest Holstein Cow" in New Salem, ND. My carefully crafted strategy was to do "big" miles the first 5-6 days of the trip so that I can take smaller bites and stop more often for photo ops and interesting sights and events once I got to Canada. That "better" part starts tomorrow. I will "highway" it up to Calgary tomorrow, then the plan is to do the Banff/Lake Louise/Jasper loop on the Icefields Parkway Thursday, and hopefully the Bighorn up to Grand Prairie and beyond on Friday. Will decide on a day to day basis based on weather but it looks pretty good. Bike is running great and I am surprised to say that even the stock seat is tolerable - at least up to a point!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/547099308_jPxyM-S.jpg
Isn't Sue a beauty!
http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/547106583_2Mjf2-S.jpg
http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/547109110_aJ5MZ-S.jpg
Eastern and Central Montana - nary a twisty to be found!

[jhbfly]

Day 7 – Wednesday May 27, 2009
Start: Shelby, MT
End: Banff, Alberta, Canada
Trip Miles Today: 323
Total Trip Miles: 2949

Day 8 – Thursday May 28, 2009
Start: Banff, Alberta, Canada
End: Jasper, Alberta, Canada
Trip Miles Today: 179
Total Trip Miles: 3128

You can read more about yesterday and today (as well as the entire story of my trip) on my blog at www.2wheels2alaska.com (http://www.2wheels2alaska.com) but the past two days have been almost entirely the antithesis of the days immediately before. I've arrived at some of the most beautiful scenery on earth. Pictures just don't do it justice! For anyone who is ever touring in this part of the world I have to give my highest, unqualified recommendation to the Icefields Parkway between Banff and Jasper. 130+ miles of unrelenting beauty. Just make sure you pick a nice day as I did! Tomorrow further North to the area around Grand Prairie, AB or perhaps over to Dawson Creek, BC, the site of "Mile 0" of the Alaska Highway. The F650GS just keeps pounding along with no issues!!!

Below are just a sampling of the many more pictures from my trip, posted (mostly) daily, at http://jackb1.smugmug.com/ (http://jackb1.smugmug.com/)

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/548017978_r5Q5n-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/548019599_FrbNz-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/548760981_qYNzy-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/548751762_rdcVk-M.jpg

:type

[bogthebasher]

Day 8 – Thursday May 28, 2009
Start: Banff, Alberta, Canada
End: Jasper, Alberta, Canada
Trip Miles Today: 179
but the past two days have been almost entirely the antithesis of the days immediately before. I've arrived at some of the most beautiful scenery on earth. Pictures just don't do it justice! For anyone who is ever touring in this part of the world I have to give my highest, unqualified recommendation to the Icefields Parkway between Banff and Jasper. 130+ miles of unrelenting beauty.

Yes, I sometimes forget how beautiful our backyard is here... sorry I missed this thread - I certainly would have come out to see you through. If you every need help I am in the 'Anonymous'. :usa :ca

[jhbfly]

Day 9 – Friday, May 29, 2009
Start: Jasper, Alberta, Canada
End: Dawson Creek, British Columbia, Canada
Trip Miles Today: 326
Total Trip Miles: 3454

Got an early start on a cold morning out of Jasper, AB. I saw more wildlife in the first half hour than I did over the rest of the day. Go figure! Elk as well as Bighorn sheep blocking the highway (a truck coming the other way scared them off before I could squeeze off a couple of pics!) Took the Bighorn Highway North from Hinton, AB to Grand Prairie, AB. Not nearly so scenic as the Icefields Parkway yesterday (what could be?) but pleasant enough nonetheless. Sure better than going through Edmonton. After Grand Prairie west West into British Columbia and on to Dawson Creek and the Official start of the Alaska Highway - "Mile 0". Plan over the next three days is to go to Fort Nelson tomorrow, Watson Lake Sunday, then on to Whitehorse Monday. Each day's ride is about 300 miles. Sounds like I could get wet over the next 36 hours or so. I should get out of Dawson Creek in the morning while still dry but then get into rain shortly afterward. Forecast seems to indicate I could be in rain (showers at least ) until sometime Sunday then it should be good for a few days. Can't complain - I've had it pretty good!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/549563231_rHdrJ-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/549624597_VGtvM-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/549563665_cARrq-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/549621903_h42Ho-M.jpg

To see many more pictures of my trip go to http://jackb1.smugmug.com/

[jhbfly]

Day 10– Saturday, May 30, 2009
Start: Dawson Creek, British Columbia, Canada
End: Fort Nelson, British Columbia, Canada
Trip Miles Today: 278
Total Trip Miles: 3732

Got up early once again, but at least this time it was intentional. I wanted to go back to downtown Dawson Creek and get some more pictures of the Mile “0” stuff without traffic of "rush hour" like last evening.

Just before 7 AM it was off to Fort Nelson, BC – about 280 miles distant.

First stop of the day was in St. John for gas. This came only about 40 miles down the road, so about 240 remained to Ft Nelson. Up here one has to keep good track of gas stops and distances as gas stations can be very far apart!

As the pictures indicate, it was a pretty morning but cold (low 40s) and very windy/gusty!

The first 100 miles or so of this route is just rolling foothills. However after a time one can, once again, begin to see snow capped peaks to the west and the hills/valleys become steeper.

Sometime shortly after leaving Fort St. John I saw my first moose (actually 2) . No pics though. For a large ungainly animal they can move pretty fast!

I stopped for gas a second time in a place called Pink Mountain. Pink Mountain was my first stop at the prototypical Alaska Highway gas station. It had a dirt parking lot, sold no brand anyone ever heard of, had regular only, and took cash only. By this time it was still dry, still windy , but sky out in front changing, and not for the good.

About 60 miles outside Ft. Nelson it began to rain and, at the same time,got considerably cooler. The temperature was now back to the same low 40s that it had been when I started the day 6 hours earlier. So I managed the final hour or so in those conditions. Looks like tomorrow's leg to Watson Lake, Yukon Terr. will start out much the same but will get better as I go.

I arrived at Ft. Nelson shortly after 2. I found it a bit more developed than when here last in 1995. Unlike 1995, when I stayed in a shack of a motel with a black and white tv (and no telephone) I am staying in a very nice new Super 8 with internet, satellite TV and all!

So tomorrow, as mentioned, I'm off to Watson Lake, in the Yukon Territory. It's about 330 miles distant, directly through the Canadian Rockies via a very scenic route. Once I get on the other side of the frontal activity that's causing this rain it is expected to warm up considerably and be excellent weather for several days. Looking forward to riding in the warm once again!!

You can see more pictures from today and from the entire trip by going to http://jackb1.smugmug.com/
(http://jackb1.smugmug.com)

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/550246930_aC938-S.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/550253526_ariWy-S.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/550255391_ASU2B-S.jpg

[jhbfly]

Day 11– Sunday, May 31, 2009
Start: Fort Nelson, British Columbia, Canada
End: Watson Lake, Yukon Territory, Canada
Trip Miles Today: 333
Total Trip Miles: 4065

Today was a day that actually seemed like two entirely different days. Part I started with departure from Fort Nelson under threatening, but dry skies. Those conditions held for about 40 miles before the misting and then steady drizzle started. This, plus the temperature hovering in the low 40s (F), was ominous as the first 100 miles from Fort Nelson is mostly an uphill ride to the pass at Summit Lake, the highest pass on the Alaska Highway at well over 5000 feet. As I climber the temperature fell and the rain increased. Then I arrived at the snow band where the temp went to freezing and the rain turned to a mix of snow/sleet/freezing rain. To make matters even more “adventurous” there was, in the midst of all this, even a construction zone which basically was a rutted muddy path for close to a mile. In better conditions this is one of the more scenic areas on the Alaska Highway. For me, today, there was little time to look at anything but that didn’t matter because visibility was a serious problem with visor and glasses fogging anyway. The good news is that immediately following the Summit Pass the road starts downhill again and the temperatures almost immediately got better. By the time I approached Toad River, and a much needed break after 120 miles of truly unpleasant conditions, it was actually back up to 50 degrees F and the sky was clearing. This was the start of Part II of today’s ride which was a very pleasant Sunday afternoon ride. This part was warm, unencumbered by weather issues, and full of great scenery and especially wildlife sightings. The road follows the Liard River Valley for many miles and it is very compelling visually. Also readily sighted today were a fair share of Bear (6 in all!), Bison, and Stone Sheep, a sheep variant indigenous to this area and similar to Bighorn but slightly smaller and darker in color.) Stayed overnight in Watson, Lake, YT in a wonderful little place, the “Air Force Lodge”. Built as a 1942 barracks for military airmen/women it’s quaint, clean , reasonably priced and motorcycle friendly. Fullest recommendations!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/551729087_HkHFN-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/551769835_tLDLX-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/551784266_QvMCV-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/551740650_cH4go-M.jpg


More pics from today and the entire ride to Alaska at http://jackb1.smugmug.com/

[jhbfly]

Day 12– Monday, June 1, 2009
Start: Watson Lake, Yukon Territory, Canada
End: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada
Trip Miles Today: 292
Total Trip Miles: 4357

For once I managed to sleep in a little later and didn’t actually get on the road until after 9. This following a nice breakfast at Bee Jays Truckstop, reputed to be the finest restaurant in all of Watson Lake.

When I rode out this morning it was already over 50 degrees (F) and it only got better from there. It was 75 (F) when I arrived in Whitehorse around 3:30PM, and sunny thoughout. Following two days of difficulty with weather, there was nothing but a few construction zones to inhibit progress today. Thankfully. Incredibly, after all the wildlife observed yesterday, I saw nothing in the way of interesting critters this entire day.

The ride today was almost directly westward through area dominated by hills and wide river valleys. The road follows, in sequence, the Rancheria River, the Swift River the Teslin River, then immediately before Whitehorse it crosses the Yukon. White capped mountains are seldom out of sight on this part of the route. Tonight’s layover, Whitehorse, is both the largest city in the Yukon and it’s capital. Whitehorse, at the headwaters of the Yukon River, played an important role in the region’s 1890s Gold Rush History. It was a stopover point for Stampeders who came overland from the Alaska Ports of Skagway and Dyea, 100 miles to the Southwest. After drying out and repacking their stuff most continued by steamboat to the gold fields further down the Yukon River. The area’s rich Gold Rush History colors many of the tourist attractions but there is much to see also in the way of scenery and wildlife. I personally enjoy the vistas at nearby Miles Canyon on the Yukon River.

I was surprised, and pleased to find a VERY nice new botique hotel, SKKY (www.skkyhotel.com (http://www.skkyhotel.com)), on the Alaska Highway just across from the Whitehorse Airport. A number of years ago, while on a flying adventure to Alaska, I had stayed at the old hotel on this site, the Airport Chalet or some such. The previous place was, to put it mildly, pretty dumpy. No so this place, only opened in February. Very nice place and very nice people. Rates are not out of line with the numerous lesser choices. I hope they make a go of it!

More pictures from today and from the entire ride to date can be seen at http://jackb1.smugmug.com/ (http://jackb1.smugmug.com)

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/552378283_dehCW-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/552385843_iq5Vp-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/552394263_bAoSx-M.jpg

[jhbfly]

Day 13– Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Start: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada
End: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada
Trip Miles Today: 224
Total Trip Miles: 4581

For the first time in over a week I didn’t go anywhere today. Well, it’s not exactly that I didn’t go anywhere. Maybe we’ll just think of it as a “local” ride. What I did was that I got up nice and early and rode the 100 miles to Skagway, Alaska, then returned later in the afternoon to Whitehorse. I made that trip for a couple of reasons. First, the ride along the South Klondike Highway is as scenery packed as just about anywhere else I’ve been on the trip. High alpine peaks, mountain lakes and rivers, waterfalls, the Klondike has it all. Secondly, Skagway is a very cool place to spend a day (or part of a day.) Skagway was an important port of entry during the Alaska Gold Rush at the end of the 19th century. Steamships came here from all the Pacific ports – Seattle, San Francisco, et al. Here the steamers discharged their gold stampeders, some 30,000 in the 1898 season, and they began their overland (and uphill!) trek to the headwaters of the Yukon River some 40 miles distant through the White Pass. Skagway today is basically a tourist destination that plies its Gold Rush heritage to good effect. As a deepwater port at the end of the Lynn Canal, Skagway is served by virtually all of the major cruise lines that offer Alaska tours. The ships come in as day stops. There were 4 of them docked in Skagway today. There is virtually no overnighting of tourist crowds here. The town comes alive with tourists about 8:00 am as the cruise patrons surge down the gangways and by about 8:00 in the evening it’s all back to a sleepy little town again as the cruise boats depart for their next destination North or South. Shopping, exploring the town’s history (an excellent visitor center), hiking, rafting, sightseeing, dining are all available. The third reason I cam here today is that good friends Don and Sandy Verdiani were on one of the cruise boats berthed in Skagway today. I went there to surprise them and to have breakfast before they headed out on their scheduled activities. Don and Sandy are the friends who will be joining my wife and I in Anchorage on Friday for our week touring as a foursome.

Riding over to Skagway also meant that I reentered the US and, in particular, Alaska for a few hours. So I guess I can now say I rode to Alaska. Still, there are some 700 miles to go till I get to my real destination which is Anchorage and the surrounding area. No claims of “mission accomplished” quite yet.

As you can tell from the pics, the weather was perfect – except for the part where it was really cold riding out there in the early morning hours. Like REALLY COLD! Like 28 degrees (F) in places. By the time I returned after noon it had warmed up mightily and it even got over 80 (F) this afternoon, so my discomfort was short lived.

I saw two more bears today. I saw one on the way over to Skagway and the other on the way back. Both Blacks, but they seemed bigger that the ones I saw the other day. Perhaps that’s just because I was closer to these guys. Each one was right adjacent to the side of the road! No pics, though. They ran away too quickly. I suppose that’s actually a good thing.

I’ve just checked the weather and it looks like the good stuff is going to hold for the next two days. That’s good. I’ve got about 700 miles to go and I am going to try to split it up as 400 miles tomorrow and 300 on Thursday. If that works out I should be in Tok, AK tomorrow night. Stay tuned to see if it happens just as planned.

Thanks for being on the ride with me!

More pictures from today and from the entire ride to date can be seen at http://jackb1.smugmug.com/

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/553196498_bVN8D-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/553199397_zFgrg-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/553201468_ZFtsk-M.jpg

[womanridge]

Your ride report is very enjoyable. I look forward to reading and viewing each day. Keep it up and thank you.

[jhbfly]

Day 14– Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Start: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada
End: Tok, Alaska
Trip Miles Today: 378
Total Trip Miles: 4959

Day 14 will be fondly remembered as the day of poorer road conditions and construction zones. However, the day started out on a somewhat odd note. I departed Whitehorse with no drama and was happily sailing along, some 50 miles down the road when I noticed that the gas gauge was WAY down – like already only a quarter of a tank left. This with another 50 miles to go to the next available fuel at Haines Junction! My heart sort of skipped a beat (or two!) as I went through, in my mind, what the problem could be. Maybe the fuel gauge has failed….seems unlikely to fail in this mode. Maybe the engine controller is in some sort of default mode where it goes full rich…nah, the bike’s running too good, and there is no sort of indication of any problem in the dash. Geez, maybe the fuel tank is split and the fuel’s spilling overboard……stopped, checked, no leaking fuel! Then it came to me. The problem is that I am a moron, and I had neglected to fill the tank last night after returning from Skagway. Whew. I had pondered how I could complete the trip with some sort of failure that allowed me only to go 100 miles at a time and it wasn’t a pretty scenario. Good thing the problem is simply that I am an incompetent.

Anyway beautiful weather prevailed and the main thing to be said about today is that the condition of the roadway North of Whitehorse, and especially after Burwash Landing and the Kluane area is dramatically inferior the that of the highway further South. I also spent probably 25 miles in construction zones today – loose gravel, hard packed gravel, and mud. It’s really not so bad if one maintains a reasonable speed but the worst is the trucks and buses, all going too fast, and pelting the bike and I with rocks. Thank heavens for lexan visors. I mentioned that the road was bumpy with uneven patches, holes, frost heaves and hollows. The highway department tries to mark some of the big ones with red flags and cones but there are so many that it is easy to become numbed to their existence. Also, they clearly can’t/don’t mark them all. Be advised - if there is a red flag there is probably a bump. If there is no red flag, you cannot assume there is no bump!

The route today takes you through several regions. Most of the remaining portion of the route in Yukon continues in the same wide river valleys and around lakes in the same fashion as prior to arriving in Whitehorse. As before, snow capped peaks are not far away and almost always in sight Then, getting closer to the Alaska border the character of much of the terrain changes to large marshes, ponds, and swamps (as well as, no doubt, this year’s bumper crop of mosquitoes.) This is the kind of place where you would expect to see moose, which I did. He was a huge bull just grazing through one of those innumerable ponds. Sadly, he was too far away to get a worthwhile picture. The other wildlife sighting of the day was a very large porcupine which crossed the road in front of me, then stopped and ran alongside for as long as he could. He was a bigger animal than I expected him to be, and another critter that I had never before seen in the wild.

Rode just short of 400 miles today and will finish up the remaining 300 miles to Anchorage tomorrow. The bike has developed this cute little “thing” where it likes to stall at idle. I believe it has something to do with fuel tank venting as now, whenever I open the fuel tank to fill it there is a substantial vacuum in the tank. Just got off the phone with the BMW dealer in Anchorage and he is going to take the bike in on Friday and see what he can do with that as well as do a 6000 mile service while I am in town. Other than that, all is well and I look forward to completion of this northbound portion of the ride tomorrow and errands in Anchorage on Friday. I’m warming up to the idea of not riding for a few days and simply being a “tourist” like so many others I have met on the trip.

More pictures from today and from the entire trip can be seen at http://jackb1.smugmug.com/
(http://jackb1.smugmug.com/)

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/554372048_YBTic-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/554372415_EZx2H-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/554372748_4ZvRN-M.jpg

[jhbfly]

Day 15– Thursday, June 4, 2009
Start: Tok, Alaska
End: Anchorage, Alaska
Trip Miles Today: 364
Total Trip Miles: 5323

Well, the weather held on for one more day and I was able to complete the Northbound segment of my ride to Alaska without having to crawl in to my rain gear a final time. While I did have times of cold and wet, I really don’t think I could have hoped for any better at this time of year, in this place!

The 364 miles today was pretty straightforward. South from Tok Junction on the Tok Cutoff, briefly to the Richardson Highway, then to the Glenn Highway into the Anchorage area. This is Alaska Route 1 the entire way and it would be hard to get lost. The scenery is pretty non-descript for the first 50 miles or so but then you get an excellent look at the Wrangell-St Elias National Park and the Wrangell Mountains – most notably Mt. Sanford at over 16,000 feet. After the turn onto the Glenn Highway at Glenallen, most of what can be seen is the glaciated North side of the Chugach Mountains and this range remains in view all the way into Anchorage as the highway follows the Matanuska River Valley. I did make the side trip up to the Hatcher Pass, above Palmer as The Hatcher Pass was the symbolic goal for my charity raising activities for the Austin Hatcher Foundation. Fortunately the weather was decent as it can still be pretty nasty this early in the season.

As has been the case throughout, the bike ran just fine, though it did do its little idle die-out trick a couple of times. Tomorrow it will be deposited at the BMW dealer in Anchorage for the motorcycle version of a week at the spa.

No recent day would be complete without the mention of wildlife. An early morning highlight was a very good look at a moose, up close and personal. A large cow (shown in the pictures) was grazing on the right side of the road. The good news is that I saw her in time because apparently my movement, or light, or noise, caused her to do the obvious thing – move into the road directly in front of me. Oh well, it makes for great photo ops! These animals are not PhD candidates. I did see one other moose standing in a lake well off the side of the road. However, THE most amazing sighting came at about 4:00 PM, inside the city limits of Anchorage and not a mile from the International Airport. I was sitting at a stoplight, amongst all the other cars, and here come a moose mommy and her two calves walking slowly and deliberately up the median. This sort of thing is not seen very often in the part of the world where I live!

I sit here tonight asking myself how it went by so fast. It was 15 days, and 5323 miles ago, that I was standing in the surf at Ocean City, NJ. When I checked in to my hotel this evening I felt tired, the normal result of a long hard uphill push. Less than an hour later, though, I found myself with maps spread on the bed – contemplating the return trip and how to make it a worthy partner to the northbound trip I completed today. I am both somewhat weary, but amped up at the idea of a return that follows a different route and is longer yet! I achieved all the goals I set out for myself for this segment. I arrived at the Hatcher Pass, in the Talkeetna Mountains, just north of here, near Palmer, with a minimum of fuss. This completed the “Hatcher Foundation to the Hatcher Pass” element of my trip which has been so important to me as a fund raising activity for The Austin Hatcher Foundation. In fact it was made even more fun when I added a visit to Austin, Minnesota and the Spam Museum so I could call it the Austin (Mn.) to Hatcher (Pass, AK) ride. OK, maybe only fun for simple minds like my own. I was also able to accommodate one of my most important supporters, RevZilla Motorsports, by being able to also claim “RevZilla to Wasilla.” I was, however, mightily disappointed this afternoon, as I stood on Main Street in Wasilla, and discovered that I could not actually see Russia. Perhaps if I were a little taller.

I do not intend to do daily entries as I spend the next 10 days or so traveling with my wife, Lisa, and friends Don and Sandy Verdiani. I may make entries from time to time but, not to worry, I will be back to a (hopefully) daily entry to cover my return trip starting on or about Tuesday June 16.

More pictures from today ride, as well as from the entire ride can be seen at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/555073035_bXvZP-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/555062108_tPbfo-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/555068628_BA6KK-M.jpg

[dancogan]

I'm truly enjoying your posts and the account of your trip. I should have posted sooner, but in any event, I'm sure a lot of us will be looking forward to your return trip! Nice job. :thumb

[ddorwart]

I am inspired by your conquest. After reading your posts, it seems we live in the same area. I am outside of Philly in the Chadds Ford area (Unionville). I also have a place in OCNJ.

I am planning on a long trip coming up over the next fews weeks and quite frankly, overwhelmed with the possibilities on where I can go, or should go. Also have my bike maintained at Hermy's.

I enjoyed your blog and your pics. I am assuming you are heading down to the International Rally in July?

[jhbfly]

The touristy phase of my trip is over and I'm getting back on the road today!! Leaving Anchorage for the first leg of the even longer trip back home! Regular reports will begin again today!
Jack

[jhbfly]

I am inspired by your conquest. After reading your posts, it seems we live in the same area. I am outside of Philly in the Chadds Ford area (Unionville). I also have a place in OCNJ.

I am planning on a long trip coming up over the next fews weeks and quite frankly, overwhelmed with the possibilities on where I can go, or should go. Also have my bike maintained at Hermy's.

I enjoyed your blog and your pics. I am assuming you are heading down to the International Rally in July?


Hi! I've found a number of local folks who have popped on to my radar scope as a result of my trip and my posts. It's very cool. Won't be going to the MOA rally this year as i have to be at a wedding in Vermont. Good luck planning your adventure trip. Keep me posted!
Jack

[terham]

Safe trip home. Hope the Phillies are still in first when you get home.:)

[jhbfly]

Day 27 - Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Start: Anchorage, Alaska
End: Tok, Alaska
Trip Miles Today: 317
Total Trip Miles: 5902

Once again, the game is on! I departed Anchorage this morning under partly cloudy skies on the first leg of the trip to home, to Malvern, PA. Ordinarily there is something distinctly anticlimactic about a return trip. That’s doubly true in this case as the first three travel days will be exactly the reverse of my northbound journey. So, today’s leg was Anchorage to Tok, AK via the Glenn and Richardson Highways and the Tok cutoff. Tok is my entry point for the Alaska Highway southbound. Despite the lack of scenery surprises (I’m seen it all before) there were several very unexpected highlights to this day. Sure I got another look at the Wrangell-St Elias Range and also the glaciers on the North side of the Chugach Mountains. In many ways the scenery looked were better than 1 ½ weeks ago because as I went along today the weather only got better and better. By mid afternoon it was mostly sunny and 70 degrees (F) so I actually did get more really good photos this time through the area. However it was those unexpected elements that served to make today special.

So how often do you see a Bentley Automobile? I’d have to say not very often and I’d wager that anyone who is reading would say much the same thing. Bentleys - stately, expensive, rare. So all that being said, who would have expected to see over 30 classic and vintage Bentleys cruising along my route today? That’s exactly what I got. Over 30 Bentleys being driven to their overnight stop in Tok, AK as part of the 2009 Bentley Drivers Club Canada-Alaska Tour. Some of the cars date to the 1920s, there are a number from the 30s and the newest that I’ve seen “only” date to the 60s. The event started in Vancouver several weeks ago and I’ve tripped over the group as they make their return from Anchorage. It looks like we’ll be on the same route for the next couple of days….Tok to Whitehorse….Whitehorse to Watson Lake, YT. I’ve personally spoken to entrants from England, Australia, and Switzerland and I’m told there are others. The Bentley Drivers Club is an International organization that stages several International rallies like this per year. Seems the members just ship their cars to wherever in the world an event is being staged. This is obviously an avocation for the “Leisure class.” To read more about this event go to http://www.bentleyalaska.com The cars are WAY COOL and these people drive then pretty hard!

The other unexpected highlight today was aviation related. First, let me back up to last weekend. Over the weekend, on TV and radio, we kept hearing about some substantial military exercises that were being commenced in the South Central Alaska area. Mostly the PR was to make people aware of the potential for sonic booms (Cool!), lots of military aircraft activity and the like. OK. This morning, about mid morning, while still following the Glenn Highway in the Matanuska River Valley, I happened to look up just in time to see two Air Force C-17 Transports flying the river valley, directly toward me, and not 500 feet in the air! Those suckers look huge at that altitude! Of course, they were gone before I could dig the camera out of the tank bag and fire it up. Nonetheless, a very neat sighting – right up there with seeing bears (which I did not today!)

Several people have asked about my return route. As mentioned, I’ll take the Alaska Highway at least as far as Watson Lake, YT. At that time I’ll make a decision whether I’ll go south to Prince George via the Cassiar Highway or continue on The Alaska Highway to Dawson Creek, BC and then go south to Prince George from there. I’m mostly waiting to seen on weather and road conditions, though the fact that this Bentley Group plans to take the Cassiar complicates things a bit as they have the ability to absorb nearly all the hotel rooms in some of these tiny towns. I’ve got a couple of days to sort that out. In any case I’ll get to Prince George, and then continue southbound to re enter the US near Seattle. After that I’ll be headed for Oregon and only then begin to head East via a, as yet, mostly undetermined route.

I’ve also had inquiries regarding the stalling issue with the bike. The bike was in the BMW Dealer in Anchorage (The Motorcycle Shop) for a week while I traveled with my wife and friends. Upon my return and following pickup the bike has performed flawlessly. The idle is stable, as it was when new, and I’ve had no stalling issues in the first 500 miles of riding. The dealer was pretty evasive about what they did but talked about lines to the vacuum canister. The fact that there is a 40+ page thread on ADV Rider regarding a whole of litany of issues as I described makes me believe that there is a real issue and apparently dealers know what to do with it. In any case, the problem is fixed – at least for now.

I’m in kind of a reflective mood tonight as it’s my last night in Alaska (for now!) but tomorrow, in any case, it’s off to Whitehorse. That will be a nearly 400 mile day through the crappiest (and most construction intensive) portion of the Alaska Highway so I’ll be glad to get tomorrow behind me. I hope the weather holds!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/566103823_6vpR4-S.jpg

http://http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/566126284_frLZp-S.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/566149412_t4wJu-S.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/566144320_ew55Z-S.jpg

There are always more pictures at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[dancogan]

:clap:clap:clap Thanks, and keep it up. Interesting about the stalling. I've heard about it quite a bit over on F800.org, but so far my bike hasn't been bitten...:brow...yet.

[jhbfly]

Day 28 - Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Start: Tok, Alaska
End: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory
Trip Miles Today: 384
Total Trip Miles: 6286

Well, my trip is now over 6000 miles and counting. Not exactly “epic” in the classic sense but pretty epic by my standards. I’m pretty sure that I’ll break 11,000 miles by the time I return home and 12K is not out of the question. I found today to again be a battle against the elements. The elements today consisted mostly of road conditions and a bit of weather thrown in for good measure. As I mentioned during the Northbound leg of the trip, the 125 miles from the Alaska-Canada border to the East end of Kluane Lake in the Yukon, is the area in most disrepair and the area with the majority of construction activity on any portion of the highway. When re-entering Canada this morning the construction zones were already on my mind but, unprovoked, the nice lady at Canadian Customs advised “be really careful in the construction zones, we’ve had several bikers down in the past few days.” As if I needed reminding. Basically these construction zones (5 of ‘em in the first 125 miles–varying in length from 3 to 8 miles) are where the old paved road has been completely torn out and a dirt/gravel/mud path takes their place. Sometimes there is 2 way traffic and sometimes it’s one lane only with either flagmen or pilot cars. Also, the condition varies from very hard, stable dirt with embedded stone to something that is like a slurry of pea gravel and mud. The pea gravel-stone-mud ones are the worst, especially just after rain or the water truck has come through to keep the dust down! This mushy stuff is just waiting to toss unwary motorcyclists. The first construction zone after crossing into Canada is the very worst for these conditions. I came pretty close to dumping the bike but judicious throttle application saved the day. Others were not so fortunate. Late in the day I spoke to some German Tourists, riding 2 up on a Moto Guzzi, and they had laid the bike down in that very area. Like the Canadian Customs Lady said “be VERY careful in the construction zones.” On top of the fun of customs and unstable road surfaces, I got pretty well doused with rain in the area around the aptly named “Destruction Bay” (named by Alaska Highway road builders in 1942 when, while building the first highway, some mega storm came along and trashed everything.) Not only did I get doused but, when the storm came up the temperature dropped down to 40 deg. (F) for almost an hour. Good thing that I had the foresight to put on my NEW heated vest which works flawlessly!

The route today was simply to go nearly 400 miles down the Alaska Highway. No turns, no side trips. Just pounding out miles. Still contemplating what to do for a route to Prince George – Cassiar Highway or Alaska Highway to Dawson Creek, then over the Yellowhead to Prince George. Cassiar Highway is about 100 miles shorter and reputedly has better scenery, but has some unpaved stretches 20 miles or so in length and less in the way of services – lodging, gas, etc. I sure would like to run into some riders who have come up the Cassiar to see what they have to say about the condition of the road. In any case I’ll have to make a decision after tomorrow. We’ll see.

That’s about the story of today. I’m holed up in Whitehorse for the night. Hope I can get some more sleep that last night. Here’s a travel hint for everyone. Don’t stay in hotels occupied mostly by construction workers especially if there is a bar nearby. Noisy crowd, they. I've also been checking for hotels one and two nights down the road and nearly everything seems to be full. I guess all those northbound cars and campers I've seen the past two days need a place to stay too. It sure is different from even 2-3 weeks ago when I made the northbound trip. Then everything was empty - now everyone is sold out. I may actually have to do some planning it seems.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/566911460_RzTHB-M.jpg
Near Northway, AK

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/566912006_H3V76-M.jpg
Big Storm brewing near Destruction Bay, YT

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/566912203_7Ezh5-M.jpg
Kluane Lake

[Voni]

Just got caught up with your adventure. Thanks so much for sharing. Your pictures brought back so many wonderful memories! And a heart stopping scare or two in those construction zones!:wow

Voni
sMiling

[criminaldesign]

be safe and enjoy. take your time and absorb it all.

[jhbfly]

Day 29 - Thursday, June 18, 2009
Start: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory
End: Watson Lake, Yukon Territory
Trip Miles Today: 271
Total Trip Miles: 6557

Today was a pretty quiet day. There was no difficulty with construction zones as yesterday. The road conditions were much improved. The distance traveled was short-under 300 miles. The weather cooperated by remaining dry (though I’d wish for it to be a bit warmer-mid 50s most of the day), and the route was the same as I had traveled several weeks ago while northbound, so no surprises nor all new scenic wonders. Low intensity days like today give one lots of time to think. One thing to think about was the interesting guy I met in Teslin this morning. See the picture of the white pickup truck with the kayak on top, just behind my bike? The truck belongs to this guy, an Arizonan, who is headed for Eagle, Alaska – about 700 miles up the AK highway from here. When he gets to Eagle he’s going to put that kayak in the Yukon River, ride the river and the rapids some 1000 miles to the Bering Sea and then he’s going to paddle across the Bearing Sea to Nome. All this hopefully before September 1. Solo. Now THAT’S and adventure! It makes my trip seem like a quick ride down to the 7-11 for a slurpee (and return!)

I’ve made a decision regarding routing for the next several days. Rather than go to Prince George via the Cassiar Highway I’m going to continue on The Alaska Highway for 2 more days to Fort St. John, BC, then on to Prince George via that Route. It’s about 100 miles longer but I like the speed I’ll be able to maintain, and the towns with lodging seem to be spaced a little more to my liking. Also, I actually went South on the Cassiar for a few miles today and there are signs alluding to construction and highway closures some 400 miles South near Kitwanga. Besides that, I’d like to have a look at the mountainous portion of the Alaska Highway between Watson Lake and Fort Nelson. It’s supposed to be the most scenic portion of the highway and I kinda missed out while northbound due to snow/slush/ice/fog/freezing my butt off a couple of weeks ago. Unfinished business. In any case, after Prince George (I expect to arrive there on Sunday) it’s on southward toward Bellingham, WA and re-entry into the US on Monday or Tuesday.

The F650GS continues without any issues whatsoever. Keeping my fingers crossed. I did meet 2 bikers today who had experienced flat tire troubles recently. Don’t need any of that! The number of Northbound bikes has clearly picked up a great deal. The overpowering volume leader is (surprise!) GSs. The population is made up of mostly late model boxers, R1150Gs and R1200GS. Have also seen a few F(nowG)650GS thumpers but only two other examples of the new F650/600GS twins. I'd wager that the next most popular brand is either Suzuki V-Stroms or Harleys.

Onward to Ft. Nelson bright & early in the AM!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/567844272_9Qst3-M.jpg
The "Kayaking to Nome" guy!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/567847421_Yu38H-M.jpg
Teslin, YT. Metal grid bridges can sometimes be a little spooky. I kinda wonder about doing one with a trailer on!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/567839592_JegqB-M.jpg
Yukon River crossing just SE of Whitehorse, YT

There are always more pictures to see at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[Voni]

As I remember the metal grate bridge at Teslin is the WORST I've ever been on.

In the rain ; )

Voni
sMiling

[AKBeemer]

I cannot repeat what Annie said to me over the radio when she saw the Teslin Bridge looming before her. It was her first grated bridge; nothing like starting with the best.

Really enjoying your thread!

[jhbfly]

Day 30 – Friday, June 19, 2009
Start: Watson Lake, Yukon Territory
End: Fort Nelson, British Columbia
Trip Miles Today: 311
Total Trip Miles: 6868

Today was just an all around great day! It started out in perfect weather and the temperature was even a little bit warmer. By the time I had been on the road just over an hour I had seen (and photographed) another black bear, some bison were kind enough to pose with the bike, and the temperature was climbing into the 50s. What more could one ask for?

Today’s route, was once again simply Alaska Highway southbound. For nearly the first 150 miles of today’s route the highway follows the Liard River Valley. On the northbound trip this was where I saw the greatest concentration of wildlife, especially bears. I had hoped to see a number of them again today but at the end of the day the tally was only two. I did have a number of Bison sightings early in the day however. One thing that I saw, that I had hoped not to see, was a large area of forest damaged by recent wildfires in the area between Coal River and Liard River. The damage is pervasive, the smoke still hangs in the valleys, and the smell just goes on forever. Wildfires are an unfortunate element of life in this area. This fire, at the junction of the Smith and Liard Rivers was over 100 sq. Kilometers at it’s peak and the Alaska Highway was actually closed for some period on June 4. I spoke to some northbound riders last week and they said that even several days after the fire was brought under control they were using pilot cars to lead traffic through the smokiest areas because visibility was extremely limited. Glad I didn’t have to go through that!

After the small village of Liard River the Alaska Highway takes a turn up into the higher elevations of the Northern Rockies toward the Muncho Lake Provincial Park, one of the most beautiful places you will ever see. When I came through this area 3 weeks ago there was still ice on the lake and snow flying. Returning today I found the lake, and park, in full summer regalia. Lodges weer full, people were out on boats and in floatplanes and the whole place had an energy to it that I hadn’t seen even a very few weeks ago.

Following Muncho Lake I made a gas stop at the Toad River Lodge (where I met three guys from Calgary bound for Inuvik on KLR650s – now THAT’S an adventure!) then began the long uphill climb to Summit Pass, the highest point on the entire Alaska Highway. I am glad I chose this route today because I had unfinished business with this place! When I can through before it was 30 degrees (f), it was snowing/raining/sleeting, it was windy, and the mile long construction area just below the pass was doing it’s best to imitate a mud bog. And yours truly came very close to wallowing in that bog! Anyway, today it was some 30 degrees warmer, partly sunny, and even the construction area was firmed up to a point where it represented no particular challenge. So, I guess the score is even.

After the pass, it’s a long downhill ride to Fort Nelson, where I am holed up tonight in what is best described as the least “elegant” of hotels so far. Tomorrow, it’s a short day down to Dawson Creek, then on to Prince George on Sunday. It’s exciting to think about having time to do laundry once again – that’s on my short worklist for tomorrow! I’m still planning to re-enter the US on Monday or Tuesday near Seattle, then on to Oregon to visit friends a day or 2 later. At some point I’ll have to face up to the task of cooking up a route to take me East but I haven’t quite come to grips with that one yet. Soon.

Thanks for riding with me!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/568567511_Dx7bM-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/568536727_Prjsp-M.jpg
Smoke still lingers from Wildfire near Liard River

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/568557293_QmKrU-M.jpg
Muncho Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/568565292_4ihuK-M.jpg

There are many more pics available at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[jhbfly]

Day 31 – Saturday, June 20, 2009
Start: Fort Nelson, British Columbia
End: Fort St. John, British Columbia
Trip Miles Today: 254
Total Trip Miles: 7122

As much as yesterday was just about a perfect day, today was about as nondescript as they get. A paltry 254 miles through the “Land of the Interminably Boring Straight Roads.” Ok so there were a few sweeping curves now and then but I’m back in the prairie for God's sake. There is very little clever or interesting to be said about today. Morning drizzle morphed into a full-on rainstorm for just over an hour through the middle part of the ride. Fortunately the rain presented no real problem as the roadway is well drained, traffic was light and I had appropriate rain gear. As usual, visibility was the main issue in the heaviest rain. That being said, I did re-prove the well known (to motorcyclists) scientific fact that rainwater is inexorably drawn to the human crotch- regardless of what rain gear you might wear. I take no credit for this discovery. This fact was discovered long ago, and previously documented by the journalist Peter Egan (among others.) For the most part the highway did not have standing water issues but the OEM Bridgestone Battle Wing BW501s are starting to get pretty worn (after about 8500 miles) and I'm becoming increasingly circumspect in the wet. Pretty fair chance I'll have to replace them before the end of the trip. I am starting to strategise when and where with no real conclusion yet. Also, not sure I want to replace them with another set of Battle Wings. I'd like something that copes with the off road stuff a bit better. Anakees? I'm open to other opinions and insights so don't hold back! Today there was also no scenery to speak of and wildlife pickins were slim. No moose (though there were signs indicating the presence of same), no bears, only a solitary whitetail deer, and the odd ground squirrel. Nor did I see a sasquatch, despite the presence of warning signs for them (him?) too. Just pounding miles in the rain with strange songs rolling over and over in my head (Katy Perry's "I Kissed a Girl" - don't ask 'cause I have no explanation) All in all just a day that I needed to get through in order to position myself for the next leg.

Despite yesterday's excellence, I truly regret not going down the Cassiar from Watson Lake. However, I am looking forward to tomorrow. First I’ll cover the 47 miles to Dawson Creek and arrive back at Mile “0” of the Alaska Highway. This will complete my AK Highway round trip: Mile “0” to Alaska and back to Mile “0”. After Dawson Creek I’ll get on a new (for me) route and head basically South and West, back into the Northern Rocky Mountains on my way to Prince George, BC. via the John Hart Highway, Canada Route 97. I am confident that this will be WAY more interesting than today! Two days later, on Tuesday, I plan to be in Portland, Oregon. In those two days I’ve got to cover over 700 miles but there are a couple of routes to pick from so I anticipate working that out in the next 24 hours. I'm very open to thoughts on routes south from Prince George. Is the Sea to Sky worth taking even though it's longer? Wish I had someone to tell me. I also looked at the British Columbia Highways website and it looks like a lot of construction that way. Decisions, decisions!

Tonight is the eve of my Birthday and I am celebrating by having microwaved popcorn in my hotel room while doing laundry. Is life good or what? Tomorrow I plan to celebrate by sharing a granola bar with a moose or some other worthy wildlife creature. If I can find one!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/569182224_9EYsT-M.jpg
Nice sign. No moose!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/569182382_FSymp-M.jpg
Quick! Get that rain gear on!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/569182695_5UK2v-M.jpg
Didn't see any of these either.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/569183054_RJ58n-M.jpg
Muddy gas stop after the rains came!

More pictures of my ride are available at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[Voni]

Happy Birthday!

The Sea to Sky highway is definitely worth it, BUT. Paul and I were planning on using it to go to Hyder but were cautioned by several people that the construction is endless and horrendous. Don't know from personal experience.

Voni
sMiling

[ddorwart]

Hi! I've found a number of local folks who have popped on to my radar scope as a result of my trip and my posts. It's very cool. Won't be going to the MOA rally this year as i have to be at a wedding in Vermont. Good luck planning your adventure trip. Keep me posted!
Jack


Keep going. The more I read the more I am inspired to head North!!

[womanridge]

I've been enjoying your ride reports. If you choose to buy tires, you may want to consider Tigard BMW in Portland Oregon. I made a trip out to the northwest last fall, and I too was concerned about the tread on my rear tire. I contacted another member of the MOA forum in the Portland area and he referred me to them. They got me in and out with only a short wait. New tires sure give a person peace of mind.
P.M. me if you need info on their location and thank you again for your reports.

[jhbfly]

I've been enjoying your ride reports. If you choose to buy tires, you may want to consider Tigard BMW in Portland Oregon. I made a trip out to the northwest last fall, and I too was concerned about the tread on my rear tire. I contacted another member of the MOA forum in the Portland area and he referred me to them. They got me in and out with only a short wait. New tires sure give a person peace of mind.
P.M. me if you need info on their location and thank you again for your reports.

Tigard was one dealer that I was thinking about contacting in the next day or 2. I've got their info from the Anonymous book but thanks for the offer. PS thanks for following my ride too! Ride safe, Jack

[jhbfly]

Day 32 – Sunday, June 21, 2009
Start: Fort St. John, British Columbia
End: Prince George, British Columbia
Trip Miles Today: 293
Total Trip Miles: 7415

It was quite easy to get up early today as the fire alarm in the hotel went off about 5:30. Nice! It was, of course, a false alarm but it’s pretty hard to go back to sleep after listening to that screeching for 5 minutes. Nonetheless this was the start of my day and, it turns out, the only untoward part.

At departure time it was already in the mid 50s and sunny so the weather part was handled, again! I almost actually felt a bit guilty about how good I’ve had it weatherwise after talking to two guys (R1150RT, R12GS) from Nebraska in the hotel parking lot this morning. They basically said that they they had been in rain almost continuously since they left Omaha. Whew, that’s tough. Anyway I’ll take all the good weather days I can get and this was a really good one all day long!

The early morning route down to Dawson Creek was a little more of the same uninspiring prairie route that ended the day yesterday. This being the case I did take the opportunity, about 20 miles out of Dawson Creek, to jump off the main route and enjoy a short stretch of the old, original Alaska Highway. The 6 mile side trip also includes the chance to drive across the historic curved wooden Kiskatinaw River Bridge. This 531 ft long structure is the only original timber bridge from the original portion of the highway, built in 1942, that is still in use today. A very interesting structure and there was the added bonus that nobody else was on the road, if even for that short distance.

Shortly after the Kiskatinaw Bridge I arrived in Dawson Creek for two items of business. One, to gas up, and two, to take the requisite photo at the Mile “0” marker and document having completed the round trip from Mile “0” to Alaska and return. Got my ticket punched for a round trip!

Then it was off for the 240 mile jaunt to Prince George. While this portion starts out with a bit more of the straight featureless stuff, two interesting things happened almost immediately. First the Mountains came into view to the Southwest. This instantly put me in a better frame of mind. Secondly I spied a momma moose and calf off the right side of the road. As momma mooses have been known to do, she ran right into the roadway and directly across the bow of the car that I was following. Based on his actions, I’m pretty sure the driver hadn’t seen her and was , shall we say, a bit surprised! Fortunately, no crash ensued. During all this commotion, baby moose elected to stay on the right side of the road and positioned perfectly so that I could cruise up , stop, get out the camera, and squeeze off a few shots. Which I did. While I was stopped it dawned on me that I was between a mother moose and her calf which is probably not a good place to be, so I buttoned up and went on my way. Never saw mom again and the baby just disappeared in my mirrors.

A short time later the road delivered me to the medium sized town of Chetwynd, the “Chainsaw Carving Capital of the World.” I was disappointed to find that I had missed a huge Chainsaw Carving Contest just one week ago! It turns out that chainsaw carving isn’t just an art form, it’s a competitive sport! Who knew?

The best part fo the trip came following Chetwynd as the highway follows the Pine River Valley and makes it’s way higher and higher to eventually arrive at the Pine Pass through the mountains. There is unspoiled scenic wonder to behold around every corner and my pictures don’t do any of it justice. Near the top of the pass is Azouzetta Lake, a setting that, in my mind rivals Crater Lake for natural beauty, even though my pictures don't do it justice.

Coming down the other side of the pass, the highway follows Misinchinka River Valley, then passes scenic McLeod Lake and subsequently follows the Crooked River most of the way to the lumber Industry Town of Prince George. There are great Provincial Parks and wonderful outdoor recreation opportunities throughout this area.

Looking for a bigger day tomorrow – ideally it will be solidly over 400 miles and leave me within shouting distance of the US border. The Canadian portion of my trip is quickly drawing to a close. I’m gonna try to get up early but hope to do so without the aid of a fire alarm ringing in my ears. Weather looks promising. Off we go. One last full day in Canada!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/570156060_MLWH4-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/570156446_9EsCX-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/570139458_btHNs-M-1.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/570157678_3CSa4-M.jpg
Pine River Valley

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/570154577_eJsBq-M.jpg
Azouzetta Lake

Lots more pics at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[jhbfly]

Day 33 – Monday, June 22, 2009
Start: Prince George, British Columbia
End: Abbotsford, British Columbia
Trip Miles Today: 437
Total Trip Miles: 7852


Up early again. No fire alarm, just want 2 get early start, as I had a long day planned. The Route today was, again, Rte 97 South, also known over this segment as the Cariboo Highway. Weather started out just perfect save for the fact that it was a little "nippy" at departure (39 deg F). Some rain showers later in the day and I climber in and out of the rain gear two times. Nonetheless a pretty pleasant day!

The first 250 miles of today’s trip was a pleasant enough, if unremarkable, tour through the lushly forested rolling hills of British Columbia. Forest Industries are a mainstay of the Province and the cities along the way, Quesnel, Williams Lake and others are dominated by the sawmills, wood pellet plants, and plywood manufacturing facilities that shape the economy of the area. Sadly, with the current economic downturn, especially the drop in new housing starts, demand is well off for building products so these communities are hurting along with much of the rest of North America. This industry is also being pressured by another issue that is not in any way related to the economy and is likely a larger threat. Beetles. In particular is the Mountain Pine Beetle which is responsible for the destruction of tens of thousands of acres of mature pine forests in this area. Dead mature trees can be seen almost everywhere, sometimes entire mountainsides of dead trees! Naturalists are working actively with forest industry teams to help combat this threat to the livelihood of the entire central portion of BC.

Over much of it’s length the Cariboo Highway follows the Fraser River Valley. At the northern end the river valley is spacious and wide. However, south of Grand Cache the valley becomes narrower, it becomes surrounded by higher mountains, and the river proceeds downhill more steeply through the Fraser River Canyon. The Fraser River and the Canyon were named for Simon Fraser, the first white man to descend the river in 1808. The Cariboo Highway through the Fraser River Canyon is a spectacular trip with fantastic scenery at every turn, and the ride lasts some 50 miles! Riding the Fraser River Canyon was definitely one of the highlights of my trip. Great twisties and spectacular vistas at every turn. I only wish there were more turnouts to provide photo ops. When I came through today it was also terribly windy and gusty. It made me wish, for the first time on this trip, that I was on a larger, heavier bike (R12GS ??). It also made me wonder, at times, if the standard 12 ft. wide highway lane is really wide enough. Nuf said about that!

Made 437 miles today, stopped for a lot of pictures and still found my way to a hotel in Abbotsford, BC by 5:30. Will overnight here then jump across the border into the US early tomorrow. Tomorrow’s goal is to be south of Portland by the end of the day, and to integrate a stop at the BMW dealer in Seattle (mostly to just check it out – don’t really need anything ‘cept possibly tires but I’m pretty sure he won’t be able to accommodate me unannounced. The tire deal will happen a few more days down the road, if at all. Still looking at possibilities. Wednesday I’ll make my way to the Medford, Oregon area to visit a friend from high school. Then some interesting plans for the weekend that I’ll tell you about tomorrow.


http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/571389607_ZP4wf-M.jpg
Williams Lake, BC

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/571396418_G6u7Q-M.jpg
Pine beetle infestation, near Ashcroft, BC

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/571452564_CFwot-M.jpg
Fraser River Canyon near Hells Gate
For more pictures from the entire trip go to http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[wezul]

Hey Jack!
Looks like you are having a great trip, what do you do for adventure? :stick

Man that F650 is packed up, how's it ride?
Thanks for sharing.

[jhbfly]

You're absolutely right. I'm having a GREAT trip! As you've correctly observed, I've got the bike pretty fully loaded. Still, I don't think the total load is more than having an adult passenger on the back seat. I intend to weigh all my stuff when I get home just to let everyone know how much there really was. The bike copes with the weight pretty well. The one thing that was a little disconcerting at first is that it doesn't seem to like a bunch of weight up high in the back and becomes demonstrably more "wobbly" at low speeds. This is something that I've gotten pretty used to but I can tell you that it makes the off road stuff less pleasant, especially in on softer surfaces. The bike also blows around in crosswinds more than I might have hoped but I'm willing to write that off to the fact that it's still just a middleweight bike. The topcase up so high and duffel on the rear seat may, contribute some to that too. I'm not really sure. All that being said the bike has been an overall excellent companion for this trip.

[jhbfly]

Day 34 – Tuesday June 23, 2009
Start: Abbotsford, BC
End: Lake Oswego, Oregon
Trip Miles Today: 302
Total Trip Miles: 8154


Today was just kind a fun day. Got on the road about 8:00 under (again) perfect sunny skies. From the hotel there was a perfect view of snowcapped Mt. Baker to the Southeast. And this time it was even warm – like over 60 deg (f) when I departed! Less than 10 minutes later I was at the US border between Abbotsford, BC and Sumas, Washington. Surprisingly enough they let me back in without any further comment. If only they knew! After the border crossing there is about 25 miles of secondary roads and then one gets dumped onto Interstate 5, my home for virtually the rest of the day. It’s been since the end of May since I was on one of these concrete slabs. It’s also been since the end of May since I’ve driven in this sort of traffic density. Quite a shock after nearly a month in the untamed wilds. Next stop was Seattle. I love Seattle for many reasons, not the least of which is that Seattle is where I met my wife Lisa in 2001. Ahhh…fond memories. This time my destinations in Seattle were simple. I dropped by Ride West, the BMW Motorcycle Dealer there. Nice store, nice people. I didn’t really buy anything but was mightily tempted! Then I took off for the Museum of Flight at Boeing Field, on the South side of the city. The Museum of Flight is a world class presentation of the history of manned flight from the Wright Brothers through current manned spaceflight. While it obviously brings a “Boeing” slant to things (the recreation of William Boeing’s first factory – the famous “red barn” is extraordinary) the museum is, in fact, very “non-denominational”, treating all the manufacturers and inventors fairly and equally. It is not a “Boeing” museum, it truly is a Museum of Flight. Worth every penny for the admission, the museum warrants 3-4 hours to do correctly. Unfortunately I only had about 90 minutes to spend. So, off I went further southward. The ride down I-5 presents you with a wonderful new, snow capped mountain to view off to the East every hour or so. First Mt. Baker near the Canadian border. Later, near Seattle, there is Mt. Rainier. Further south we can see Mt. St. Helens, of volcanic eruption fame. Finally, as we reach the Oregon Border near Portland, Mt. Hood comes into view. All were in clear sight today on a beautiful day as arranged by the local Chambers of Commerce, I suppose. Arriving near Portland I decided to drop in on another BMW dealer, this time BMW Motorcycles of Western Oregon in Tigard. Got into a discussion about tires, and my tire wear situation, with one of the parts guys, Rick. One thing led to another and now I have an appointment with their sister store, in Eugene (1 hour further South) to get new tires installed in the morning if we can work out the cost & details of getting it done tomorrow morning. I plan to be there when they open at 8:30. I've decided on Metzler Tourances – a tire with a bit more off-road capability than the Bridgestone Battle Wings I have now. The Battle Wings are beginning to get a bit long in the tooth. I could probably stretch them out till I got home but these guys have what I need in stock so, ithere's a good likelihood they’ll get changed out tomorrow.
Tomorrow evening I’ll be visiting an old high school friend near Medford, down near the California state line. Thursday, Ill head out, this time to the Northeast to make my way to Pendleton, OR in the NE corner of the state. Why go there? How about I just hold that piece of information till tomorrow.


http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/572445931_8VcaJ-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/572447755_7UzpA-M.jpg
Museum of Flight, Boeing Field, Seattle.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/572452313_nvPJf-M.jpg
Mt St Helens

Many more pictures of this trip available at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[dancogan]

Welcome back to the U.S! Great report and good writing. I'm not surprised you get blown around a little - just look at the side profile of that bike with the cases and duffel bag. That's a pretty big area. And the top case, expanded, holds a bunch. If you've got some weight up there it's not hard to understand a bit of slow speed wobble. Hopefully you were never caught off guard. How are those vario cases holding up? Are they waterproof? Have you found out yet whether they can handle a fall?
Keep up the great reports and thanks! :lurk

[Voni]

Thanks for bringing us along on your adventure!

Voni
sMiling

[jhbfly]

Welcome back to the U.S! Great report and good writing. I'm not surprised you get blown around a little - just look at the side profile of that bike with the cases and duffel bag. That's a pretty big area. And the top case, expanded, holds a bunch. If you've got some weight up there it's not hard to understand a bit of slow speed wobble. Hopefully you were never caught off guard. How are those vario cases holding up? Are they waterproof? Have you found out yet whether they can handle a fall?
Keep up the great reports and thanks! :lurk

The vario cases seem to be holding up OK. I haven't dropped the bike (don't plan to!) so I can't comment on their durability in a drop. They are not utterly waterproof, but seem pretty good. The left one seems to leak a bit around the front/bottom. Others seem OK. If I were to be preparing for this trip again I would probably choose the TouraTech Aluminum-top loading cases. Way less chance of compromising the case sealing with a minor incident. Plus, when you drop the bike you can take all your stuff out to make it light enuf to lift back up! The one thing I really like about the OEM Vario cases is the easy on/off.

[jhbfly]

Day 35 – Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Start: Lake Oswego, OR
End: Ashland, OR
Trip Miles Today: 372
Total Trip Miles: 8526

The early portion of today’s ride was just about getting places. An early departure was necessary to get myself 100 miles down the road Eugene, Oregon early enough to be there when BMW Motorcycles of Western Oregon opened their doors at 8:30am. My business at BMW Western Oregon was to get a new set of tires installed on my trusty old steed. This couldn’t have worked out more perfectly. With help and support from Service Manager Hugo, and Doug in the parts department, the tire change was completed in just over an hour an a half. Excellent folks. Easy to deal with, courteous, and very supportive of the traveling rider. I’d recommend these guys to anyone, so if you’re ever in the area…! For you who are interested, I chose to install Metzeler Tourances to replace my Bridgestone Battle Wings that came on the bike as delivered. At something approaching 10,000 miles the Bridgestones still had some useful tread but I was getting some uneven wear on the front and the rear was getting pretty "square" from all the straight-down-the highway stuff.

The quick work at the BMW dealer got me back on the road just after 10:00AM. This allowed me some time to play! First order of business was to head West on Oregon Rte. 126 toward the coastal town of Florence, some 50 miles distant. From Florence I proceeded South on the Oregon Coastal Highway (Rte 101) through the Oregon Dunes National Recreational Area. My main business here was to shoot a couple of pictures on the Pacific Coast and document the completion of my trip “Coast-To-Coast”. That being completed I continued S on Rte 101 until arriving at Reedsport, where I again turned inland to follow Rte 38. Rte 38 follows the Umpqua River Valley and makes for quite the scenic ride as both the road and the river climb inland. After a subsequent turn southeast on to Rte. 138, some 60 miles later I was again back on I-5 heading South for my overnight stop in Ashland, OR.

Arriving at Ashland about 4pm, I checked in at my hotel before heading over to visit with my high school friend Anne Bellegia and her husband Terry Asnes. We had a very nice dinner and they treated me to a quick tour of Ashland. That about capped the day and I headed back to the hotel for some rest. Tomorrow is a big day. I plan on an early start with a side trip to Crater Lake National Park, one of my very favorite places on earth. Then it’s a northeasterly heading to see how far I can get in the direction of Pendleton, OR by tomorrow night. Why Pendleton? Because Pendleton is close to Athena, Oregon and Athena is the site of the annual “Hodaka Days” festival. Athena was the home of PABATCO, the company that brought Hodaka Motorcycles to the US in the sixties and seventies. As a dual-sport rider, I consider that Hodaka holds a special place in the history of the breed. Before there were Yamaha Enduros, long before there were GSs, there were Hodakas – arguably the precursor to every on road/off road bike that followed. More tomorrow about Hodakas and Hodaka Days! Lots more adventuring yet to come.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/573431737_gb5Hi-M-1.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/573431649_gBXru-M.jpg
Pacific Ocean near Florence, OR

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/573431448_dhYgp-M.jpg
Pacific Ocean near Florence, Or

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/573428470_Xx8Nb-M.jpg
Umpqua River near Reedsport, OR

There are plenty of pictures from my ride at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[jhbfly]

Day 36 – Thursday, June 25, 2009
Start: Ashland, Or.
End: Pendleton, Or.
Trip Miles Today: 436
Total Trip Miles: 8962

The trip is getting to be pretty close to 9000 miles now and this afternoon the very first pangs of “get home itis” began to creep in. From now on, every place I go will be closer to home than the last but I’m really nowhere done yet! Today, for example I banged out over 400 miles and visited one of my absolute favorite places on earth, Crater Lake National Park.

I got an early start because I knew I faced a long day. Off by 6:30 am I was headed north on I-5 out of Ashland. It was only a short stint on the super-slab today though. At Medford, only about 15 miles away I had the great pleasure of getting off the Interstate an on to California Rte. 62, The Crater Lake Highway. The highway generally follows the path of the Rogue River, which originates high in the cascades near the north side of Crater Lake. By following the river’s path the highway lends itself to many beautiful vistas over the 70+ odd miles from Medford to the park. Much of the route passes through the Rogue River National Forest. Especially notable is the Rogue Gorge, carved by the river over eons. A number of picture stops and a few stops just to say “Wow” caused the trip to proceed at a fairly slow pace. I was, nonetheless, at the Crater Lake National Park South gate by just about 9:00 am. Since first visiting Crater Lake in 2005 I have longed to go back. To me it is among the most beautiful, and tranquil places I know. I was fortunate, once again to have a visit unspoiled by inclement weather. The weather gods dealt up another perfect morning! Photo ops and stops to simply “take it all in” ate up over an hour before I Ieft to continue northward. Jumping on Oregon Rte. 97, I proceeded, in turn through Bend, Redmond, and Madras. Somewhere North of Bend the character of the terrain and of the entire environment changes. Out of the dense pine forests where I have spent the past few days and into a more desert like, more barren region. Still, however, always in sight are the snow capped peaks to guide one. Mt. Hood, and the Three Sisters, now visible to the West as I have moved into the central part of Oregon. Late in the afternoon I reach the Columbia River Valley and the east end of the Columbia River Gorge. It lives up to its reputation by being both considerably hotter and a fierce wind is swirling. No so much fun for me (and all those people in campers), but good news for the windsurfing crowd, who are out in force! At the Columbia I turned eastward, once again on the interstate, now I-84, for the quick 100 mile blast to my overnight destination, Pendleton, OR. I plan to stick around here for the next day or so. As I mentioned yesterday, I have come to the Pendleton area, in particular a little town called Athena for the 10th edition of an event called Hodaka Days. For those of you unfamiliar, Hodakas were popular 2 stroke dirt and street bikes made in Japan and sold exclusively in the United States by a company called PABATCO (Pacific Basin Trading Company) whose headquarters was in Athena. I think that all of todays dual-sport bikes owe a little to Hodaka for helping create the breed and define the market. In the 60's when Honda and Yamaha both offered "trail bikes" with lame pressed steel frames and some semi knobby tires, Hodaka was producing a steel tube frame bike with both amazing off-road capabilities and all the street "stuff" like lights, etc to be truly a dual purpose bike. When the Japanese Big 4 saw how well these bikes performed and how well they were being accepted in the US, they jumped into the market with bikes like the original Yamaha DT-1 Enduro and that was just about it for tiny builder Hodaka. The bigger trailies, like our GSs cam later. I am kind of a Hodaka fan and actually Lisa and I have a “project” Hodaka at home. I hope to have pictures and stories from this event tomorrow and maybe Saturday before I turn to the serious work of covering the 1700 miles between here and home. Hope you are still enjoying the story and pics.


http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/574227159_fYVXJ-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/574217341_uwkpa-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/574231929_G82Uh-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/574234883_ujLHL-M.jpg

You can look at a lot more pictures by going to http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[jhbfly]

Day 37 – Friday, June 26, 2009
Start: Pendleton, Or.
End: Pendleton, Or.
Trip Miles Today: 47
Total Trip Miles: 9009

Today was day spent in the Pendleton, Oregon area. Pendleton is pretty well known as the home of Pendleton Woolens and Knits (no woolen knits required today – 80 deg. and sunny!) Less well known, at least to people outside the motorcycling community, is that less than 20 miles up the road is Athena, Oregon the home of Hodaka Motorcycles. In the early 60s Athena based agribusiness company PABATCO (Pacific Basin Trading Company) found themselves in the motorcycle business through an odd set of circumstances including the bankruptcy of the obscure Japanese motorcycle manufacturer Yamaguchi, currency trading restrictions with Japan, and the critical mass of motorcycle enthusiasts within the PABATCO management corps (Long story made short!) The Hodaka product was pretty advanced for it’s time – employing a steel tube frame for it’s “trail Bikes” when the products from the Big 4 Japanese manufacturers were still pressed steel weldments. Also, these capable little bikes had lights, horns and other street equipment which allowed the owner to ride to the trailhead rather than haul them in a trailer. Success rapidly followed and the company sold 10s of thousands of bikes (in the US only) in just a few short years. This success was rather short lived as the little company never really had the resources to compete directly with the much bigger Japanese manufacturers such as Honda and Yamaha. When the big guys finally got it right with their “dirt bikes” (think Yamaha DT1) in the late 60s and early 70s, the Hodaka brand slowly wound down and finally closed about 1978. Nonetheless these bikes have quite the following nationwide and I firmly believe that every manufacturer who is in the business of dual-sport and enduro bikes (including BMW) owes something to Hodaka and other "lost" brands that have gone before. Hodakas' annual homecoming, "Hodaka Days" is in Athena this week. Attending the event is special treat for me as I have a “basket case” Hodaka at home awaiting its turn for restoration. It’s exciting to see all the different models (Hodaka was famous for it’s “tongue in cheek” names for the different lines of bikes – “Super Rat”, “Road Toad”, “Dirt Squirt”, and “Wombat” were all part of the fun). Importantly, these are not just show bikes but they are ridden and ridden hard! Nice to see classics out there in the dirt! Anyway, I was able to spend the afternoon at Hodaka Days just absorbing the ambiance. I plan to return tomorrow to spend another half day experiencing the bike parade, swap meet and bike show. But, all good things must end and I plan to depart about noon or 1:00pm for destinations east. I’ll try to put a couple of hundred miles under my belt tomorrow afternoon – perhaps over near Boise, Idaho. Then the next few days afterward will be mostly just pounding out those boring highway miles while making my way home. At this time I anticipate arrival in SE Pennsylvania on Friday, July 3. I should know more after a couple of days but that seems a reasonable projection for now. I hate to see the end in sight but there you are! However, we’ve got another week to ride and anything can happen so I hope you’ll stay with me! Thanks again, Jack.

There are many more pictures available to see at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/574922492_8g2hU-S.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/574923535_x5HC4-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/574925169_UYCAR-M.jpg

[jhbfly]

Day 38 – Saturday, June 27, 2009
Start: Pendleton, Or.
End: Nampa, Idaho
Trip Miles Today: 270
Total Trip Miles: 9279

On the way back to Athena early this morning I took a few moments to cruise by the Pendleton Woolen Mills. Founded in 1893, Pendleton Woolen Mills is known worldwide as a maker of fine Indian blankets and men’s plaid shirts. It could very well be the only thing you ever heard of from Pendleton, OR. My early morning ride also gave me time to soak up the views of the local farms and the agribusiness. The area’s main crops are wheat and hay but I’m also told that a great percentage of world’s commercial green pea crop also comes from here.

Back, then, to Athena I went. What I found were many more bikes now present – maybe as many as 150-200? Also, by attending Saturday morning I got to view the Hodaka Parade through downtown Athena – a sight not to be missed! Not only is the parade fun for the participants but local folks all come out and it’s a grand old time. Many of the local residents seem to look back fondly on the Hodaka era when the brand carried Athena’s name proudly to the furthest corners of the United States. The parade brings with it the sounds and smells (and smoke!) that was the signature of two-stroke motorcycling in the 60s and 70s. Just like a trip back in a time machine! Also by visiting again on Saturday I got some time to speak to Paul Stannard and his wife Patti who are the real catalysts for the continuation of this great event. Paul is the president of the Hodaka Club and also operates one of the premier outlets for Hodaka Parts, information, and accessories. Their company, Strictly Hodaka, is based in Vermont. Paul and Patti are friendly, outgoing people, willing to help in any way and they have made a successful business out of their passion. We should all be so lucky! However, even this fun had to come to an end as I needed to get on the road and cover some ground eastward. Before noon I was on my way, rolling eastward in I-84 and covering the last 100 miles of Oregon. Shortly after crossing into Idaho I decided that enough was enough and that I had to get off the Interstate if I was to retain my sanity. I took a chance and went south from the highway and worked my way into the Snake River Valley. I followed that for about thirty scenic miles before turning back north to Nampa, ID. my overnight destination. Unfortunately, going eastbound the time zone changes steal hours from you. When I crossed into Idaho I entered the Mountain Time Zone and lost an hour from the available riding time. Fortunately I’ll be in Mountain Time for the next couple of days so I don’t have to dial that correction into my travel plans again for a while.

It looks like each of the next few days will need to be over 400 milers in order to make my planned arrival at home on Friday, July 3. Tomorrow’s destination is Rock Springs, WY and Limon, CO the day after that. Riding the Interstates will make the mileage accumulation possible but I’m not looking forward to just highway miles. Hopefully I can cover ground quick enough to get off the highway from time to time and see the truly interesting stuff. Time will tell.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/575632989_M3ED2-M.jpg
Today: From Pendleton, OR (A) to Nampa, ID (B) via Athena, OR and the Snake River Valley

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/575598229_wUFdy-M.jpg
Hodaka Days Parade in downtown Athena, OR

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/575601248_TDvjD-M.jpg
Hodaka Days Bike Show

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/575601921_M9V5a-M.jpg
Snake River Valley, South of Nampa, ID

More pictures are available at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[jhbfly]

Day 39 – Sunday, June 28, 2009
Start: Nampa, ID
End: Rock Springs, WY
Trip Miles Today: 478
Total Trip Miles: 9757

What can I say about today? 478 miles (3rd longest day of the trip!) but all on the Interstate. My route of travel is easily described – I left Nampa, ID on I-84 East. I stayed on I-84 until it ends in Utah East of Salt Lake City and at that point I jumped on I-80 East for the rest of the day. You can certainly make good time on the Interstates, especially in the west where the speed limits are high (like 75 all day today!) You do miss out, however, on much of the scenery and interesting elements of how people live their lives in the localities that you pass through. That being said, for tomorrow I’m going to leave the Interstate for a few hours and cut through the Northeast corner of Colorado via secondary roads. It’s my last day in the mountains and I’m really looking forward to the diversion, regardless of how long it may take me to reach tomorrow’s overnight destination, Limon, CO.

Highlights for today were few but the one which always stands out for me is the ride from the Salt Lake City area heading east. The climb up through the mountains is eye-popping and even the Interstate is interesting here, with sweeping s-turns, many posted for 45 or 55 mph but capable of being negotiated at higher speeds. I am definitely looking forward to lots of mountain twisties tomorrow.

The bike continues to handle the miles without complaint. I did confirm today an observation I made at the beginning of the trip coming across North Dakota and Montana. That is that the gas mileage really goes in the pot when you try to cruise at speeds above 75. While I would suspect that the overall gas mileage for the trip is about 57mpg, by really twisting the throttle to cover ground quickly the rider can drive the mpg value into the 40s. On the other hand, proceeding at more “sedate” speeds on secondary roads often yields over 60 mpg. Take your pick!

As I mentioned, tomorrow it’s Limon, CO. I’m getting far enough along that it’s getting possible to predict where I’m gonna land for the rest of the trip. That projection kinda looks like this: Monday night-Limon, CO; Tuesday night- somewhere around Salina or Lawrence, KS; Wednesday night-St Louis area; Thursday night- Columbus, Ohio area; Friday night – HOME in Malvern, PA. Still lots of miles to go but the end is coming in sight!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/576440732_m5pnA-M-1.jpg
You probably don't want this in your backyard!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/576441641_rhYqw-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/576442058_u2Mo6-M.jpg
Just off of I-80 West of Salt Lake City in the mountains

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/576439731_KAngf-M.jpg
Typical view on I-80 eastbound near Evanston, WY


There are always lots more pics to see at http://jackb1.smugmug.com
(http://jackb1.smugmug.com)

[jhbfly]

Day 40 – Monday, June 29, 2009
Start: Rock Springs, WY
End: Limon, CO
Trip Miles Today: 497
Total Trip Miles: 10254

I feel really good about today and the route I took. By getting off Interstate 80 near Rawlings and heading south into Colorado, I was able to entirely change the character of the ride. My route took me off of the Interstate by 8:30 in the morning (yea!). Near the small town of Wamsutter I turned south on Wyoming Route 789 toward the Colorado border and the small town of Craig, CO. This portion took me through high desert and across the Continental Divide for the first of 4 times today. By the time I entered Craig, the terrain had transformed from the Wyoming High desert browns and reds to the Colorado lush greens. A VERY refreshing change. In Craig I turned East on US 40. Next location of note was the ski town of Steamboat Springs, CO. Steamboat is a little bit artsy and touristy but still with a taste of the old west. From Steamboat the Route 40 goes seriously uphill and into the Routt National Forest. The segment from Steamboat to Kremmling was the surprise and delight of the day for scenery. Forested mountainsides, alpine lakes and more. Then it was on to Granby, Grand Lake and Route 34 through the Rocky Mountain National Park. Pictures do not do these places justice, you must visit! Aside from about 15 miles of construction, near the West entrance, the Park was just about perfect. I also had my closest ever encounter with Elk. They were actually grazing in the roadway. After leaving the park I passed through Estes Park then continued on through Bolder, Denver and (sadly) out of the mountains and into the prairie. After Denver I joined I-70 and proceeded to Limon, CO, my overnight digs. I say sadly because there is a lot of flat and seeming featureless country before me as I proceed across Eastern Colorado, Kansas, and Missouri. I will be on Interstate 70 for well over 1000 miles before I exit in Pennsylvania some 4 days hence. The trip total miles is now over 10,000 and that seems like a real trek. Someday it will make me tired just thinking about it. But not yet. I’m beginning to get amped up to just pound out miles and get home. Thanks again for letting me share this little adventure with you.

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/577911113_TFrJo-M-1.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/577916468_qxgRW-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/577916780_eu4Y6-M.jpg
Near Steamboat Springs, CO

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/577917544_mW7uz-M-1.jpg
Rocky Mountain National Park

Always more pics to look at - http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[firefly]

Wow...what an OUTSTANDING trip! I LOVED The pic of your bike by Crater Lake. I've never been there but I will some day.......Looking forward to more!

(I've got the exact same bike as you...even the same color....it's cool seeing it loaded up for travel!)

[jhbfly]

Wow...what an OUTSTANDING trip! I LOVED The pic of your bike by Crater Lake. I've never been there but I will some day.......Looking forward to more!

(I've got the exact same bike as you...even the same color....it's cool seeing it loaded up for travel!)


Crater Lake is one of my favorite places on this, or any other planet! Go there. Do it! Soon! Jack

[jhbfly]

Day 41 – Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Start: Limon, CO
End: Wichita, KS
Trip Miles Today: 433
Total Trip Miles: 10687

Today was the first of several days in a row of highway mileage that will close out my trip. Eastern Colorado and Kansas are really lovely places but I am very sure that riding through these states on Interstate 70 doesn’t show off their beauty to maximum effect. The first thing I noticed this morning, upon leaving Limon, CO before 7:00 AM was that it was already over 60 deg (f)! I took this as a clue that today might be a “warm” day. Riding eastward and looking directly into the morning sun is always a challenge but I guess that’s the price to be paid for these early morning departures. Today was, again, all about covering maximum distance so I didn’t factor in adequate time to check out many of the “ attractions” to be found in this part of the world. For example I had to pass up the “World’s Largest Prairie Dog” in Oakley, Kansas. I also made the mistake of failing to leave time for visits to any of the many “boyhood homes of famous people” scattered across the Kansas landscape. For example, I drove right past the boyhood home of Walter P. Chrysler in Ellis, KS and completely missed the boyhood homes of both Bob Dole and Senator Arlen Specter in Hays, Kansas. First thing tomorrow morning I will likewise miss, no doubt, the boyhood home of Dwight D. Eisenhower in Abilene, KS. What I did see today were the rich farmlands of Kansas which deliver wheat, corn, and other important crops to all of us. Not the most scenic of views but beautiful in their own way. The heat of today was pretty oppressive. By the end of the day I was looking at 98 degrees on the bike thermometer. Hope fully tomorrow will be a bit cooler as I make my way to St. Louis and hopefully beyond the Mississippi river. Thanks for being along for these last few days of the ride. Jack


http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/578784510_QJsC5-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/578784910_qeH4j-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/578785015_m8cqd-M.jpg

[dancogan]

Nice to hear you appreciate the beauty and importance of the farmland you're riding through. It is beautiful and even neater when it can be appreciated in each season. Great to hear your trip is going well - don't let down your guard as you get closer to home!

[ddorwart]

I know you have "get home itis"; however, sitting here reading your comments, all I can say is "take your time" getting home. No regrets. You have a wonderful adventure in the works and I know the instinct is to push on, get the miles out of the way. Take stock in the fact that there are wonderful things to see along the way from where you are now to Philly.

Enjoy...

Thanks for sharing the ride and the wonderful documentation of it.

[jhbfly]

Day 42 – Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Start: Wichita, KS
End: Vandalia, IL
Trip Miles Today: 527
Total Trip Miles: 11214

This was a day for which I had no real expectations, except that it would be a long ride on a hot day. Well, as it turned out, this was a day of a number of fun surprises. My only real goal for the day was to make it across the Mississippi River before calling it a day. To do so, I felt the need to leave depart early, which I did by getting underway just before 6:30AM. It seemed a bit unusual to be packing up the bike in the pre-dawn darkness inasmuch as two weeks ago I was in Alaska where there was virtually no darkness at all. It was 65 degrees when I took to the Kansas byways and I took that as an omen that another sweltering day was in store. Anyway, off I went. The initial part of the trip took me on the Kansas Turnpike toward Kansas City, about 200 miles distant. I relished the lack of traffic at that hour and in the bright morning sunlight one could see lots of deer grazing in the farm fields. Pretty nice! I covered 100 miles before 8:00am and that amount of progress gave me confidence that my Mississippi Crossing goal was in reach as well as reinforcing the notion that I could stop in St. Louis and visit the Headquarters of the BMW Motorcycles Owners of America. So on I pressed. It was shortly after passing Kansas City that I got my first exciting “surprise” sighting of the day. Just barely into Missouri and what should I see but a sign proclaiming that the town I was passing through, Blue Springs, was the home of American Idol 2008 winner David Cook! The “World’s Biggest Prairie Dog “ yesterday and now this! I guess it’s just plain wrong to say there’s nothing to see on the prairie! And on I rode. About 2:30 I arrived in Ellisville, just outside St Louis at the BMW MOA headquarters, an organization to which I have belonged since the early 1990s. They gave me the grand tour and I spent some time speaking with the organization’s magazine editor about doing a piece based on this blog and on my trip. We explored ideas and left open the possibility. Maybe the best part of stopping in at BMW MOA was that it’s just right down the street from the Historic Route 66! I’ve spent days (no weeks!) following all manner of pioneer trails – the Oregon Trail, The California Trail, the Mormon Trail, etc, etc, etc. However, to we geezers from the motorized travel era nothing is bigger that Route 66. The Mother Road! And I got to ride on it (if only briefly) on my bike. How cool is that? Later in the day I had another encounter with Route 66 as I stopped just before crossing the Mississippi at the location of the historic “Chain of Rocks Bridge” that carried Route 66 over the Mississippi “back in the day.” All in all a pretty good day. Oh yes, it never really got hot either. Highest temp I saw all day was about 85 and after crossing the River I rode for another hour in mid 70s temps. Just about perfect I’d say.

The plan for tomorrow is to get another early start and to arrive in the Columbus, Ohio area early enough in the afternoon to go and visit the American Motorcyclist Association Motorcycle Heritage Museum in Pickerington, Ohio. The distance is reasonable (only about 370 miles) but I get hit with another of those pesky time zone changes and lose an hour! Fortunately it’s the last one as, by this time tomorrow, I’ll be back in the Eastern Time Zone where I belong! I'm trying hard to avoid the temptation to make a mad rush to the East Coast and think I have an orderly plan laid out to get home with reasonable mileages, 370 tomorrow and about 450 on Friday. I only have one other thing to tell today but this is really weird. Tonight I’m in a hotel in Vandalia, Il. My room number is 312. In fact my room number has been 312 for 3 of the last 4 nights! Rock Springs, WY – 312. Limon, CO – 312. Now Vandalia, IL – 312. Very creepy! Maybe this means something but I don’t quite know just what yet. Stick around and maybe we’ll see before the trip is over!!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/579662157_zSh7q-M.jpg
Pretty dark at 5:30 AM!!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/579662731_KToxK-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/579662958_mZfXg-M.jpg

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/579663591_42vi6-M.jpg

More pictures are available to be seen at http://jackb1.smugmug.com
(http://jackb1.smugmug.com)

[jhbfly]

Day 43 – Thursday, July 2, 2009
Start: Vandalia, IL
End: Pickerington, OH
Trip Miles Today: 358
Total Trip Miles: 11572

Today started out a little differently. At departure time it was cloudy, overcast, and it looked as if I might get rained on. The lack of that early morning sun burning my retinas was actually a welcome relief from the past few days. Off we went, first through the southern Illinois farmlands, then into Indiana, and ultimately through the cities of Indianapolis, Dayton and Columbus. These are bigger cities now and they come at me more often as I near the more populous Northeast. There is not much to really say about the ride as it was all Interstate 70, as it has been for days now.

We haven’t really talked much about “road warrior cuisine” but I do want to give a shout out today for one of my favorite road foods – Skyline Chili! Skyline Chili is the prototypical “Cincinnati Style” chili. The company was founded in 1949 by Greek immigrants and has, over the years grown from the original store (within sight of the Cincinnati “skyline”) to outlets through Ohio, Indiana, Michigan and a few others. Mostly it’s a Midwest thing. I believe I previously mentioned that I lived in Michigan for many years and going through the Cincinnati area always required a stop for Skyline Chili. I was fortunate enough to find a restaurant near Dayton today and boy did that make me happy! I heartily recommend the 5-way (Chili, beans, onions, cheese, and spaghetti) if you ever get the chance. Skyline Chili can sometimes be found in food stores in other parts of the country but it’s somehow not the same as having it served to you at one of the restaurants.

For lack of time, I passed up two stops that ought to be on every traveler’s short list. I skipped the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum because it was sort of out of the way and also because the Indianapolis Beltway, I-465, is all torn up with construction and I feared taking a huge amount of time getting to and from the Speedway. I’ve also been there in the past 7-8 years so I just kept on riding. Likewise I drove past the U.S. Air Force Museum at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base in Dayton. As much as I would have like to stop in I just didn’t have the time. Since this is a motorcycle trip, I voted to allocate my time to the American Motorcyclist Association Motorcycle Hall of Fame Museum just outside Columbus, OH. I’m glad I did. The museum has two currently active displays. The first is “Moto-Stars” a display dedicated to celebrities and their motorcycles. Among the notables with strong motorcycle connections are Steve McQueen, Tom Cruise, and Keith Urban and there are both bikes and cycling memorabilia from these and others on display. Also featured, in a different gallery is a collection of the customs from noted builder Arlen Ness. Not exactly my cup of tea stylistically but nonetheless incredible craftsmanship that anyone can surely appreciate. In addition to these special displays there is the Motorcycle Hall of Fame Gallery and much more. If you ever travel this direction the Museum is just moments off I-70 a few miles East of Columbus in Pickerington, Ohio.

Well, tonight is my last evening in a hotel and for that I am grateful. Another 450 miles or so tomorrow and I’m back home after 6 ½ weeks on the road. I have no particular stops in mind for the final day. Just whatever coffee and “stretch your legs” breaks are required to get me through. It’s been fun but I’m not quite through yet. Maybe something surprising or interesting could yet happen. If so I’ll let you know. I really enjoy having others travel along with me.
Jack

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/580504812_y9qWj-M.jpg
Welcome to Ohio. Only one more state to go!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/580504906_apADu-M.jpg
AMA's Motorcycle Hall of Fame Museum in Pickerington, Ohio

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/580505020_7QuSF-M.jpg
One of the galleries at the Motorcycle Hall of Fame Museum

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/580504858_BmF6i-M.jpg
People go to museums to learn. Here's something useful that I learned at the Motorcycle Hall of Fame Museum. You gotta love John Wayne!

More pics to see at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[osceola]

Been following your trip the whole way through and it turned out great for all of us! Ride safe to home tomorrow and you'll get to sleep in your own bed for the first time in a while! Thanks so much for sharing your trip with all of us.

[dancogan]

Yes, ride safe tomorrow and thanks for taking us along. Really enjoyed the journey. Glad it didn't end for you and for us when you left Alaska. There's a lot to see wherever you go! :beer

[jhbfly]

Day 44 – Friday, July 3, 2009
Start: Pickerington, OH
End: Malvern, PA
Trip Miles Today: 447
Total Trip Miles: 12019

I can only say WOW! After 44 days, 20 states, 2 Canadian Provinces and a Territory, 4 time zones and 12,019 Miles I am, at last, back home. No crashes, no tickets, no bike drops. Just home. Safe and sound.

There isn’t a great deal to say about today’s ride. I slept in just a bit and didn’t get on the road until about 8 AM. I ground out 100 miles in the first 90 minutes across Eastern Ohio via I-70. Inasmuch as I skipped all those “Boyhood home(s) of ……” in Kansas the other day I decided to catch at least one in Ohio. In New Concord, OH. I stopped by the boyhood home of astronaut John Glenn – now set up as the John and Annie Glenn Historic site, right there on the main street in New Concord. As a kid I was enthralled by the space program so John Glenn was a boyhood hero of mine, as he was for many of my generation. Alas, the house was not open for visitors so I kept on rolling. Sometime later, when I was about 200 miles out, and just beyond the Pennsylvania State Line it began to rain. A fine welcome back! I rode on the Pennsylvania Turnpike for about an hour in and out of showers. Nothing drenching, just enough to require full rain gear and the increased attention rain riding requires. Later the rain abated and I took the opportunity to leave the PA Turnpike to follow US-30 (The Lincoln Highway) through the western part of the state. Route 30 is a marvelous ride from Breezewood, PA headed East for about the next 30-40 miles. It’s mostly mountain views and twisties up and downhill. Any road posted “Dangerous Curves Ahead – Truck runaway Ramp 1 Mile!” has to be prime motorcycling territory. The number of other bikes out confirmed my assessment. A great ride. Further on I stopped briefly in Gettysburg, PA sight of the famous Civil War Battle (fought July 3-4, 1863…146 years ago to the day.) Pretty facsinating stuff for the Fourth of July weekend. After that it was just grinding out those last hundred miles. I was met just as I exited the PA Turnpike for the final time by my wife Lisa, and friend Don Verdiani who had ridden out to the same place they left me on that Thursday Morning 6+ weeks ago as I departed. Then my “posse” escorted me the last few miles home. That’s it. I’m home now. Of course, with ideas for other adventures after a suitable rest period!


As you know, an important part of this entire enterprise was to raise awareness for and generate donations to the Austin Hatcher Foundation (www.hatcherfoundation.org). If you have enjoyed this story and have, at any point felt compelled to join me in doing something good for those who are in need then I’d ask you now to make a donation to the Austin Hatcher Foundation. Just go to their website and click on the “Donations” tab. If you do so please make a note in the comments field that you are supporting the “Ride to Alaska” or similar. If you don’t wish to donate online but would feel better writing a check simply send a check along to The Austin Hatcher Foundation, 7421 Savannah Drive, Ooltewah, TN. 37363. Again, please enclose a note that says you are supporting the 2009 Ride to Alaska. The Austin Hatcher Foundation is a 501c3 charity.

A big part of the fun of this adventure was meeting new friends, both on the road and online. I consider all of you who are reading this to be my friends and it’s been great to have you along for the ride.

Over the next few days I’ll be posting some “epilogue” and summary stuff so don’t stop visiting just yet!!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/581285878_ERwjB-M.jpg
Astronaut John Glenn boyhood home

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/581285900_MAvzJ-M.jpg
Back in the state of Pennsylvania!

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/581286019_DDj3v-M.jpg
Back home!!

more pics always available at http://jackb1.smugmug.com

[dancogan]

:clap:clap:clap :dance

[BeerTeam]

I can only say WOW! After 44 days, 20 states, 2 Canadian Provinces and a Territory, 4 time zones and 12,019 Miles I am, at last, back home. No crashes, no tickets, no bike drops. Just home. Safe and sound.

Very nice report.:thumb

I liked your daily narrative and photos.

[Statdawg]

OUTSTANDING JOB, and mission accomplished. :usa

I enjoyed following your journey of inspiration and it was nice that you dedicated it to a worthy charity. Sadly Jack the travel bug will infect you and I suspect that it will not be long till you are doing the Labrador 500, James Bay, or asking us if you should fly or use a pirate boat to travel beyond the Darie'n.

[jhbfly]

Day 45 – Epilogue
Miles Today – 0

Here I sit on 4th of July. A mountain of mail needs to be sorted and the bills paid. The first of several loads of laundry is underway. Even so, I am drawn to reflect on the events of the past month. By several thousand miles this was my longest motorcycle trip to date. Friends have pointed out that 12,000 miles is equivalent to just about halfway around the Earth. Even so I don’t feel particularly weary. Rather, I feel invigorated by having been so far and having seen so much. Were there things I would do differently? Sure.

Regarding the bike:
My F650GS performed almost perfectly throughout the trip. The exception was an intermittent stalling issue that appeared at about 4000 miles into the trip. I lived with the issue for about a week before putting the bike in the BMW dealer in Anchorage. Whatever they did (they weren’t talking) fixed the issue as it neveroccurred again. If I were starting out again I would do two things differently with the bike. First, I would add an extension to the side stand to make the foot bigger. I had repeated issues with the small “foot” sinking into the soft gravel and dirt in gas stations and parking lots in the North. Likewise, when it was just about 100 degrees last Tuesday in Wichita the bike began to sink into the soft asphalt. Fortunately things never quite so far out of hand that the bike fell down. Secondly, I would have replaced the very good, but street riding focused original equipment Bridgestone Battle Wing Tires with something a little more appropriate to the dirt and gravel I regularly found myself riding. In Oregon, on the way back I had a set of Metzeler Tourances installed but, of course, by then most of that sort of riding was over. The greatest “pucker”/”heart stopping” moments of the trip were in the mud and soft gravel of construction areas in Northern BC and the Yukon. Sure did wish I had some more appropriate tires then! The BMW Vario bags are spacious and seal well (though not perfectly. The hardware that latches the bags to the bike is a little "fiddly" and I worried throughout about the possibility of breaking the plastic latch handle. Nonetheless they held up pretty well. Fortunately the bike never got dropped so I can't comment on how they endure the incidental "muddy gas station drop". If I were starting from scratch I think I'd probably opt for some aluminum Top-loads (Touratech or other). They have the advantage that you don't compromise the sealing or hinges in a static drop over and also, if you drop the bike you can easily empty the bags to make the bike light enough to pick up. Admittedly they don't clip on and off quite so easily as the OEM BMW Stuff. Based on the number of times I got peppered with rocks by trucks going the other way in construction zones, some sort of headlamp protection is mandatory. I did actually see two other bikes with broken headlamps. Don't leave home without protection! As I have mentioned several times in previous commentary, the F650GS (as most other bikes) doesn't like all that weight up high which makes it a bit "wobbly" at low speeds. It also makes it more "entertaining" in the soft stfff. Again, if starting today I would try real hard to develop a packing scheme that kept weight out of the topcase and off the back seat. Likewise for crosswind stability - I had a lot of "Sail" area out back and it does blow around a bit at highway speeds. Bike (with stock gearing) seems perfectly happy to cruise at 75 all day. Average gas mileage for the return trip was about 56 mpg. Used about 100ml of oil every thousand miles though that seemed to be reducing as time went by and the bike was further broken in.


Regarding the route:
If I had this amount of time to make this trip again I don’t think I’d alter my route much. I did keep a pretty aggressive travel schedile and if I had wanted to have the opportunity to stop and see more things, make more sidetrips along the way then I just flat would have needed more time. Disregarding the days when I layed over somewhere, I averaged 332 miles per day on the Northbound trip and 375 miles per day coming back. That’s quite a bit and doesn’t leave a huge amount of time to enjoy the incredible number of diversions to be found virtually everywhere I went. On the other hand, if I had cut back to 200 or 250 miles per day it would have taken another month to make the trip. There are places that I should have gone (Cassiar Highway in BC) but it’s a little late to second guess now.The seat, well, was tolerable but certainly not as comfortable as my R1150RT was. Nonetheless not a big problem. Overall the bike was a very good compromise for this trip. Given the nature of the routes available in Northern BC, the Yukon, and Alaska, and that I really wasn't getting very far off the beaten path I didn't feel at a loss for not having a GPS.


Regarding my equipment:
My only equipment failure of the whole trip was when the heated vest quit (conveniently-the day before the coldest/wettest day of the trip!). I carried all the appropriate gear that I needed for the conditions I encountered – everything from the high 20s with freezing rain and sleet to nearly 100 degrees (F). One irony of the trip is that I carried camping gear but never camped. It’s a little hard to explain but during the Northbound portion of the trip it was mostly too cold to seriously think about it. Overnight temps around the low 30s were just beyond what my stuff would have been comfortable with. Then on the return trip I had gotten so geared up to have internet each night and do daily postings here and elsewhere that I kinda forgot about the camping thing. Of course, it was always there if I needed it in a pinch. Which I did not. I think for future travel I’ll be a little more specific in planning whether it’s a camping trip or not. My RevIt Sirocco Jacket performed brilliantly, although it is now so filthy that the only appropriate thing to do migh be to burn it (only kidding!). It (along with my helmet) was the only piece of equipment that I wore every mile of every day. I might have wanted it to be a bit warmer on those 30 and 40 degree mornings but, on the other hand, it remained mighty comfortable in the 80 and 90 degree afternoons toward the end of the trip. For sure it’s a sound 3 season jacket not a piece of winter gear. Maybe I just didn’t understand that winter wasn’t quite over everywhere I went.

Other thoughts:
One of the very best parts of the trip was meeting new friends, whether on the road or online through my blog or web forum postings. There are plenty of motorcyclists on the road in the North from the end of May on. They are friendly, helpful, and most are also fascinating to listen to as they tell their stories. People in the hotels, restaurants and other motorists are also helpful, interested and attentive. Traveling North America is easy and it’s as rewarding as it is interesting. I have just this one additional interesting anecdote to add. I had no GPS and, frankly didn’t really need to use maps all that much. However I did usually have a map in my tankbag. Occasionally I would stop alongside the road to look at or study the map. I did this a number of times throughout the trip. I specifically recall that I did it 3 times in Wisconsin. The reason I remember Wisconsin so well is that EACH time I stopped, someone pulled up in a car or pickup to ask if I was having any trouble or needed any help. On the other hand this NEVER happened anywhere else I went. I don’t know what it is about Wisconsin people but they sure are eager to help. Fascinating. Reassuring.

While there were many highlights to this trip, the biggest of all was to be able to do something for others who are less fortunate than I. The trip has managed to raise several thousand dollars for The Austin Hatcher Foundation (http://www.hatcherfoundation.org) and, even now, additional donations continue to arrive. Thank you all for your generosity!

I also need to thank, once again, the fine folks at RevZilla (http://www.revzilla.com) and RevZilla.com. Their support and encouragement was first rate throughout. If you need motorcycle gear & equipment they’re your guys. Give ‘em a call or check ‘em out on the web at www.revzilla.com (http://www.revzilla.com). Likewise a shout out to Hermy’s Cycles (http://www.hermys.com) in Port Clinton, PA. They’re my BMW dealer of choice and became a supporter of the ride early on. I especially liked being able to participate in their Spring Open House back in May before the trip began. The F650GS is going to go to Hermy’s for it’s regular service just as soon as it can be scheduled. See them for your BMW and Triumph needs.

Anyone who is contemplating such a trip, even remotely following my route, is welcome to contact me at jhbfly@yahoo.com for insights, advice , or just to talk about the great adventure of it all.

While others are contemplating a trip of this nature I'm, even now, noodling a few other trips I'd like to make. I have no doubt a plan, and details, will emerge in due time. Meanwhile I'm just gonna chill for a few days. Pretty quick I've got to get geared up for my "other" motorcycling affliction. I have an entry at the 61st Speedweek at the Bonneville Salt Flats in August. Lots of work to get done! Another bike, another kind of fun.

A sincere thank you to everyone who has joined me on this trip. You’ll never know how much encouragement your interest has provided me.

Be Well,
Jack Broomall

[david46]

Thanks for taking all of us on your trip. Great job!

[firefly]

Thank you again for sharing your fabulous trip! I felt like I was right there with you!

[jhbfly]

Now I've been invited to give a presentation on this trip as part of the October 17th Fall Open House at RevZilla Motorsports (Philadelphia, PA). I intend to cover all elements of the trip....bike, planning, route, lodging, etc, etc, etc. If you want to know more about long distance travel on an F650GS twin or about making that once in a lifetime trip to Alaska please come on out. The more the merrier! Have questions or things you would like me to address? Message me here or email to jhbfly@yahoo.com! Please join me at RevZilla on Oct 17!

My trip to Alaska is covered at www.2wheels2alaska.com (http://www.2wheels2alaska.com)

Preparing the presentation by looking at all my trip pictures brings it all back for me as if it were yesterday. This is one of my favorites:

http://jackb1.smugmug.com/photos/568528954_BmrPu-M.jpg



Jack Broomall

jhbfly@yahoo.com

[jhbfly]

FEAR OF PUBLIC SPEAKING !!!!

ALASKA PRESENTATION NEXT SATURDAY, 10/17, IN PHILLY !

I'm spending part of the weekend getting ready for my presentation next week at RevZilla Motorsports in Philly! Their open house goes from noon till about 4:00PM. Lots of deals on gear and the Alaska Ride Presentation goes off at 2:00PM. I've still got zillions of pics to sort through and I also need to make some time to pile up those last few miles for the MOA mileage contest which ends tomorrow!. So much to do, so little time! Get more details by checking out the Sept 29th entry at the RevZilla blog at http://blog.revzilla.com (or you can email/IM me!) Hope to see some new friends there!!
Jack Broomall
jhbfly@yahoo.com

[firefly]

I wish I was closer! Good luck and I'm sure it will be a wonderful presentation!