For What It's Worth

[LRider]

Last year I did a ride report on my first long ride, a swing through western Canada (where I was born and raised). I had been riding less than a year at the time, and started riding after reading Neil Peart's book, "Ghost Rider". This thread is posted on Advrider.com and is called "Hittin' the Note" , after the title of the Allman Bros. latest release.

This year I decided to call my trip report "For What It's Worth", after the Buffalo Springfield song written and sung by Stephen Stills (I am probably giving away my age somewhat).

Most simply, I departed Ottawa, drove south to Syracuse, and turned right. And kept on going. The states pass very quickly on the I-80. The tolls were a little inconvenient, however I kept a few small bills in my tankbag at easy reach, which I used several times. Every state seems to have its toll portion, at least until you get to about Iowa or so. The posted speed limit reaches 75 mph once into Nebraska.

I was very impressed with Cleveland, and the nice drive along the waterfront, Lake Erie. I also really enjoyed crossing the Mississippi at Davenport. Later in my trip, on my way back east, I met a nice couple from Davenport, at Foothills BMW in Denver. They were each riding their own bike. And it seems that the Presidential runners seem to like Davenport too!

Next time I would avoid Chicago during the morning rush hour. It reminded me of my experience driving in downtown Birmingham, England, in rush hour, on "their" side of the road! That feeling of hoping that you will make it, and asking yourself why you are really doing this. Buffalo was similarly a challenge.

Being from Canada, a rider without a helmet is unheard of. But from about Pennsylvania on, thats all I saw. Harley riders, hundreds of them, not a helmet amongst them. As an ATGATT type, this really took me aback. I'm not passing judgement, it's just that it reminded me of when I moved from Saskatchewan to Ottawa, Ontario in 1969, and saw helmetless riders in Hull, Quebec. It had never crossed my mind up until that point that you could actually do such a thing.

I didn't see a BMW until much later. But I did see some great wide open vistas. As a prairie boy, the big sky feels like home. On a bike, you really are part of the "frame". Big sky just pulls you that much further into it, like being in your own movie. Here are a couple of shots from Wyoming, west of Laramie.

[LRider]

Another:

[jgr451]

Yes I love the BIG SKY too,you described it very aptly.
I grew up in Manitoba and have crossed the prairies from BC to the east by bike a number of times.People dismiss that drive as straight and boring but there is a majesty and subtlety there that is not like any other place.

[LRider]

I stopped for a coffee in Laramie Wyoming at a little spot called Granny's, attached to a service station. I was proudly wearing my new Savanna II gear. Granny (must be 80), looked me up and down, then asked, "you goin' fishin'??".

So much for vanities. BTW, I heard on the news last night that there had been terrible accidents on the I-80 east of Laramie, I remember that 8K elevation pass very well.

It wasn't until nearly Salt Lake City that I saw any beemers. In fact I saw 6 GS's
in half an hour, over that spectacular descent from Evanston to Salt Lake. It was hot, high 90s. My RID, which hadn't been over 5 bars, jumped to 7 bars, even at freeway speed.

On my way to Moab, the scenery was spectaular.

[LRider]

There were roads that seemed to go miles and miles into the horizon.

[LRider]

Another.

[LRider]

There were also some interesting side roads.

[LRider]

That ride to Moab sure cleared my mind. My job, and its pressures, were the last things on my mind.

It was hot and humid in Moab. I checked into the Super 8 and set out to do some exploring. But not before having the best peanut butter and jam toast in a little bakery on the Moab main street.

I found this road along the Colorado river. There didn't seem to be anyone else on it. Perhaps some sort of service road?

[LRider]

Another.

[LRider]

As I mentioned, I am a prairie boy. Big dents in the earth, or big things sticking out of the earth, really impress me. Arches and Canyonlands National Parks have lots of these.

[LRider]

Even in this hot weather, I was still ATGATT. It was a bit of a challenge constantly getting on and off the bike, walking or hiking to see things. I'm sure anyone who saw me thought I was crazy.

[LRider]

Another.

[LRider]

At the bottom of this photo, at about 6 o'clock, you can see a red dot which is actually a person.

[LRider]

This photo doesn't contain any object that gives a sense of size. Let me just say it was real big, the top boulder being maybe 100 feet across.

The formation is called 'Balanced Rock', which is, it seems to me, self-explanatory. I though about it balancing long before I was on this earth, and that it would be balancing for many years after I am gone. So, in comparison, do my daily challenges, balancing many things, seem so daunting?

[LRider]

I had a good 20 minute hike to see this formation. Without the respite of an air conditioned vehicle, and with plus 90s heat, I was losing lots of water. I always carry a liter or two of water on my bike, which was a lifesaver, given there are no services here. I drank this water quickly, and new that I couldn't safely stay out too much longer.

The "Delicate Arch" adorns many Utah vehicle plates. You can see a few dots to the left, which are people.

[LRider]

This is one of my favourite shots. Most of my photos are about 1-2 megs in size, so I have downsized them significantly to satisfy the 160K upload limit. I would be pleased (and flattered) to send a full sized photo should anyone care for one.

Here is a a vista from Arches park, near the Fiery Furnace viewpoint.

[LRider]

It was time to take stock and handle some administrative matters. My wife, who graciously supports my cross country "walkabouts", managed to get a last minute air ticket from Ottawa to Denver, where she would be in 36 hours. We would spend a few days in Denver together. I had been to Colorado Springs (Cheyenne Mountain), but never to Denver. Nor had Sheila.

Georgia Sue (my GS) was now clocking almost 5K kms on this trip. Given faithfull unflinching service in all temperatures and altitudes, I figured an oil and filter change was the least I could do. I called Foothills BMW-Denver and arranged to come in the next day. They are on the west side of Denver in Lakewood. Knowing I would approach Denver from that side, and that it would be new territory for me, I wanted to keep my routing simple.

Last summer I had a very unfortunate and frankly unsatisfactory experience with the BMW dealer in Calgary, Alberta. I'd had an oil leak in southern Saskatchewan, and needed help. Without going into details, let me simply say that the dealer didn't want to help me, and in fact refused even to change my oil.
(I ended up changing it myself at my brother-in-law's home in Canmore. I always carry the tools, filter ratchet, and filter/crush washers in case I get stuck just like this.)

So when Murray at Foothills BMW said "no problem, come on in, we will make room for you" , I was both relieved and impressed with the service orientation.

[LRider]

I like to get up and ride early. When I am on the road, every morning feels a little like Christmas morning. As soon as I am awake, I get excited by the thought of pushing that starter button and getting into gear. So sleeping in is almost unheard of for me on the road, I just can't do it.

Generally I am an early riser anyway. This trip I was usually on my way "out of town" by 5:00 to 5:30 AM. To do this, I would be out of bed by 4:00 AM. The daily preparations are the same every morning. Do my personal routine, check the weather channel, pack my duffel and side bag, clean and ready the gear, pack the bike, check fluid levels, tires, lights, log entry, zero the GPS, final check of maps etc., gear up and go. All in the same order, at least I tried to (good advice from Ron Ayres in his book "Going the Extra Mile").

I love watching the sunrise, especially from the back of my bike. Particularly from 30 minutes before the sun actually appears. If lucky, I would see lots of colours. At that time, you also own the road.

Here are a few shots at sunrise, around 5:45 AM, just north of Moab. The first appears quite lightful, but it was really very dusky.

[LRider]

The rock formations seemed to abruptly butt up against what I would call semi-desert. Here is the sun just peeking over a rock formation.

[cgarr]

Nice photos rider......:clap :clap :clap

Southern Utah is one of my favorite places to kill time on the bike, no matter how many times you go, there is always something you haven't seen yet

Thanks for taking the time to share your ride with the rest of the asylum

[LRider]

About 20 minutes later.

[LRider]

On my way to Denver, I came upon the Colorado again.....

[LRider]

Another.

[LRider]

It was at this point in my trip that I had my closest calls with danger. Three in fact. I've heard that things come in three's, perhaps getting this all over within 30 minutes was a good thing? All near Loveland Pass on the I-70.

The first was a near collision. A minivan pulled in front of me and nearly cut me off. I backed off and let it go. This, however, is just the begining, and I should mention I am hard not to see from the front since I run "on" at all times PIAA 540s with H3 extreme white bulbs. A mile or two down the road I am passing a transport truck and rounding a dogleg-right corner. Suddenly in front of me is the offending minivan, in my lane, moving slower than myself or the transport. The van puts on its left turn signal (yes left, and this is in the left lane of a two lane interstate where vehicles are travelling 75 mph) brakes hard, and starts to pull over to the left. The only problem is, there is no room for it on the left. Those of you who have travelled this road I'm sure can relate. I hit my brakes, horn, and try to think of what evasive action I can take so as to not hit the back of this vehicle. Or more importantly, stay in one piece. The transport truck sees what is happening, anticipates a possible move by the van to the right across its path (remember there really isn't room to stop on the left), and hits the brakes as well. So, there is a transport on my right braking hard, about 3 feet away from my right shoulder, a van in front braking hard moving left, and cars behind me doing 75 mph. Basically I am boxed in. A 5 foot gap between the right side of the van and the left side of the transport opens, and I go through it, at about 60 mph. I don't know what happened after that, because I didn't stick around to find out.

I don't like to judge situations when I may not have all the facts. For example, what if the minivan driver was having a medical emergency? All I can say for sure is that it was a close call.

Now for number two. I'm usually pretty calm. But I don't mind admitting this shook me up a little. A few more miles up the road I pulled off at a rest stop, to collect my wits and calm down. I stop the bike, put the sidestand down, and start to swing my right leg back over top to dismount. But I haven't paid attention to the incline. The bike starts to roll forward, the sidestand collapses up, and in this compromised situation I am trying to keep this heavily laden bike upright. I struggle for what seems like an eternity (a few bystanders look on with wide eyes and don't know what to do), and need every ounce of my strenght to right the bike and swing my right leg back on. I sit with my right foot firmly over the brake, preventing the roll, panting out of breath. I sat like that for 15 minutes remembering there would be days like this.


So, once calmed down, I'm off again. Now for number three. As I climb Loveland Pass, elevation 11,902 feet, I see dark clouds looming. But in other parts of the sky, it's reasonably clear, so I press on. The sky gets darker, and it starts to rain. I don't mind rain at all. Like yourselves, I am geared for it, often ride in it, and sometimes would even say I like it. Hail, however, is different. Especially big hailstones that hurt when they hit you. Which is exactly what happened. Beside damage to me and my bike, I was concerned about traction. And the traffic wasn't slowing down much. I drove for a few minutes looking for a safe place to pull off. A clearing on the right appeared, at what I would later determine to be the entrance to Eisenhower Tunnel at Loveland Pass. As I am standing in the hail, by the side of the road, trying to put my 'stitch triple digits on, all of a sudden a very loud siren wails (even through my earplugs I hear it loudly), and lights start to flash. Gates are closing. I see a huge truck coming to a quick stop in front of the tunnel. There is a man in a yellow outfit with a big stick running towards it, in the hail, and the cars are stopping as well. What is going on!? Am I safe? What more could happen today?

There is a reasonable explanation for most things. As best I can figure after the fact, the truck tripped a height sensor which prevents oversized vehicles from running into the top of the tunnel. The man with the stick uses it to measure maximum permissible height.

In any event, the hail stopped, and I moved on. This photo shows my GPS at an elevation of 10.6 K feet, somewhere near where all this happened.

[LRider]

When I got to Denver I found Foothills BMW easily. True to his word, Murray the service man looked after me efficiently and happily. I looked through the store, and found things I had never seen before in Canada. All manner of BMW gear. Gloves and other apparel in the flesh. "Held" gloves, very nice. And a waiting lounge with coffee and cookies. Life can't be bad can it?

I met a nice couple from Davenport. They had lived in the Denver area and gave me some tips for things to do with my wife, who would arrive the next morning. They said they were considering a move to Canada, but were concerned about the short biking season. I explained that in some parts of Canada, such as southern British Columbia and southern Ontario, the season is almost all year, other than for the odd bit of nasty weather. My home province, Saskatchewan, would have a much shorter season.

All done in short order, I'm off to the hotel to meet with Sheila the next morning.

[LRider]

Rocky Mountain National park was great. The road over the top spectacular, above the tree line and at the snow line. Here are my wife and I at the visitor center at over 12 K feet elevation........

[LRider]

I'll do the rest of the trip later. I hope you have enjoyed it so far....... :)

[username]

great report, great photos, great writing. your 'three dangers' section was well put-together. sounds like you kept a cool head and did well in all situations.

keep it coming! :thumb

[LRider]

Originally posted by jgr451
Yes I love the BIG SKY too,you described it very aptly.
I grew up in Manitoba and have crossed the prairies from BC to the east by bike a number of times.People dismiss that drive as straight and boring but there is a majesty and subtlety there that is not like any other place.

I couldn't agree more!! Thanks....

[LRider]

Originally posted by cgarr
Nice photos rider......:clap :clap :clap

Southern Utah is one of my favorite places to kill time on the bike, no matter how many times you go, there is always something you haven't seen yet

Thanks for taking the time to share your ride with the rest of the asylum

Thanks my pleasure!! You are lucky being close to such great riding......

[LRider]

Originally posted by username
great report, great photos, great writing. your 'three dangers' section was well put-together. sounds like you kept a cool head and did well in all situations.

keep it coming! :thumb


Thanks!!

[LRider]

I'll try to finish this report now, but I've caught a little bit of trouble. My wife read the post on the dangers, and although I had previously "alluded" to that day, I hadn't quite related it with the same precision and detail. Sheila supports my biking, but understandably doesn't enjoy hearing about the danger parts.

I have always done what I can to be safe. I believe in proper training, safe equipment, and mostly an appropriate attitude. I try my best to never let annoyance or even anger stand in the way of good judgement. As my wife's grandfather (who was a train engineer on the famous Newfoundland or "Newfie" Bullet) often said, "it's better to be wrong than to be 'dead' right". Nonetheless, as you well know, there are risks.

Denver was great. We enjoyed many good meals, the 16th Avenue walkway, and the spectacular scenery. We also visited the famous Red Rocks Amphitheatre to the west of Denver. I had first heard about this theatre in the rocks when watching the DVD of Neil Young at Red Rocks. I subsequently found out the Beatles played here on August 26th, 1964. Almost exactly 40 years ago. In Neil Young's DVD the amphitheatre seemed like an incredible place, in a natural red rock setting, and it absolutely is. With huge natural rock formations on either side, the sound is apparently spectaular. Here is a picture of the rock formation to the north of the seats, with my wife sitting on a ledge at ground level.

[LRider]

Here is a picture of the stage area, looking to Denver in the background.

[LRider]

It came time for Sheila to fly home, and for me to ride home. On the day of my departure I left Denver at about 4:45 AM. I wanted a solid mileage the first day, to make a reasonable three day return possible. The northern route, avoiding Chicago, was my plan. I rode through Colorado, Nebrsaka, and Iowa into Albert Lea Minnesota. About 840 miles. I knew in advance what this would feel like, since I had previously completed the Saddlesore 1,000 in 16 hours. When I pulled into the Comfort Inn in Albert Lea at about 7:30 PM, there were several HD riders in the lot, checking in. They asked me if I was on the 'circuit'. I wasn't sure what the circuit was, but thought it could be an arranged routing for HD riders. I had seen dozens of them, and put two and two togther given that I was close to Milwaukee as well.

I don't think it's good practice to brag at any time, especially out on the road. But I couldn't help replying that I had left Denver earlier in the day, and that yes, I was a little beat too. I figured my 15 hour ride earned me that small indiscretion. I wasn't asked any more questions, but they did look at me as if I was somewhat over the top.

[LRider]

Riding north through Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan was great. As I crossed into Michigan, helmets appeared. It was like seeing a long lost friend, and I no longer felt as different in my ATGATT. The other appearance in Michigan was of highway police. I saw more patrol cars on highway #2 than in the rest of my trip combined. I watched my speed closely.

Northen Lake Michigan was really pretty. Here are a few photos.

[LRider]

Another.

[LRider]

Taking the trans-Canada highway from the Sault home to Ottawa was covering well known territory. I made my customary gas stops in Espinola and Mattawa.

It was terribly cold. In fact the whole trip home, while trying to stay ahead of some bad weather, I had worn my electric vest. I never rode without it, and it was on most of the time. I can't imagine what it would have been like without the vest to keep me warm. The grips were on often as well. Beside the hail and rain at Loveland Pass in Colorado, the only other precipitation I encountered on my trip was this rain the last few hours west of Ottawa. Heavy rain.

Just west of Deep River I was passed by a couple riding two-up on a cruiser. A half an hour later I pulled into Deep River for a coffee and found them stopped having coffee and food at the same place. Both about my age. I felt so badly for them, they looked miserable, cold, and drenched. As I sat having my coffee, I noticed that neither had any electric clothing. The woman was wearing a North Face winter coat and a winter overall. The man had a rain suit, but was wearing running shoes that were soaked. Neither had full face helmets. The man poured over maps, barely looking up, while the woman stared vacantly into the rain outside. They hardly spoke a word to each other.

I imagined them talking about and eagerly anticipating this trip, through northern Ontario. Time off together, on the bike, enjoying the scenery and the wind on their faces. And then this, days of cold and rain. I was embarrassed for how smug I had been the day before, and made a silent wish for their improved comfort.

I finally made it to Ottawa, after hours of rain. Miraculously, the rain let up just as I arrived home, looking a bit like a refugee from a home for wayward motorcyclists:

[LRider]

That smile on my face is real. Glad I did it. Glad to be home. After several thousand kms.

(Many thanks to Jessie McGrath, Master BMW mechanic (the best!!) and owner of Premier Cycle in Ottawa, who keeps my bike going).

[jgr451]

Speechless.Man.

[GlobalRider]

Originally posted by L Rider
There were roads that seemed to go miles and miles into the horizon.

Lord, that is straight! Too straight!

I wonder if that explains why raked out Harleys originated down there?

Thanks for the report. Ahhh, to win a lottery and travel. Wouldn't that be pure heaven?

[LRider]

Originally posted by jgr451
Speechless.Man.


Thanks.

[dbrick]

Rod,

What was happenin' there was *exactly* clear. A wonderful ride. Wish I'd been along. With your fine photos and great description, I was.

[LRider]

Originally posted by Global Rider
Lord, that is straight! Too straight!

I wonder if that explains why raked out Harleys originated down there?

Thanks for the report. Ahhh, to win a lottery and travel. Wouldn't that be pure heaven?



My pleasure.......

[kbasa]

Outstanding report, L. Absolutely outstanding!

[LRider]

Thanks for the kind words folks!!!

[gec343]

Excellent reading. Thanks for taking the time to write. Also, the photos were great!

[Cliffy777]

Great report. Utah is amazing. The rocks are the best. #2 in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan is a great stretch of road.
Well written. (Too bad your wife read the scary parts!) I really appreciated your attitude toward the minivan that caused so much hassle for you. I would have punctuated the story with lots of %$#& and *&%#'s.

[BradfordBenn]

Yup, you have nailed this one. This summer I did a trek out west, and it seems like I missed all the fun stuff. Time to start planning for next year.

Also I agree with you about the dealer in Calgary, Alberta (Blackfoot Motorsports). I went in there this summer and well... I was under whelmed good thing all I needed to do was purchase oil.

The photos are spectacular.:rocker

[LRider]

Originally posted by gec343
Excellent reading. Thanks for taking the time to write. Also, the photos were great!

Thanks, I enjoyed writing it.....

[LRider]

Originally posted by Cliffy777
Great report. Utah is amazing. The rocks are the best. #2 in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan is a great stretch of road.
Well written. (Too bad your wife read the scary parts!) I really appreciated your attitude toward the minivan that caused so much hassle for you. I would have punctuated the story with lots of %$#& and *&%#'s.

Thanks Cliffy.........have you tried #17 (the transCanada) north of Lake Superior? You would like it as well if you enjoyed #2.......

[LRider]

Originally posted by Blue Knight
Last time we met was in Deep River having a Timmy. We were on our way to the Gaspé Peninsula.

Mike

Hi Blue K yes I remember well meeting you and your wife in Deep River. Busy little spot, isn't it?

Thanks for the pic. Looks like you had a great time in PQ. Bike looks good.

[LRider]

Originally posted by BradfordBenn
Yup, you have nailed this one. This summer I did a trek out west, and it seems like I missed all the fun stuff. Time to start planning for next year.

Also I agree with you about the dealer in Calgary, Alberta (Blackfoot Motorsports). I went in there this summer and well... I was under whelmed good thing all I needed to do was purchase oil.

The photos are spectacular.:rocker

Thanks for the comments. I agree, time to start thinking about next year! Lima is close to Ottawa, and since I haven't been to a BMWMOA rally, I think I'll build it into the loop.......:bliss

[lkchris]

A prairie guy, huh?

Then you might enjoy ... this (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0312278500)

[lorazepam]

awesome report! I would love to take a trip like that someday. Your report at least let me ride along...

[LRider]

Originally posted by lkchris
A prairie guy, huh?

Then you might enjoy ... this (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0312278500)

Thanks for the great link, looks like a good read!!