View Full Version : HEXHEAD Tech - R1200X - Valve Adjustment - All Years
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 01:41 PM
The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.
The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.
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Specifics:
space-Bike shown is a 2008 R1200RT
space-Heated Seat Option
space-No Factory Radio
space-BMW Cylinder Guards
Tools
(top down)
- 3/8” Drive ratchet and extensions
- 10mm Combination Wrench
- 0.30mm Gap Tool - Exhaust Yellow Handle (BMW) 2x
- T-45 Torx Head Socket
- T-30 Torx Head Socket
- Spark Plug Coil Removal Tool – Reference www.marcparnes.com
- 0.15mm Gap Tool - Intake White Handle (BMW) 2x
- 3mm Allen Wrench
- Metric Feeler Gauge Set
- Extended Reach 5/8” Spark Plug Socket
space- Reference www.harborfreight.com Item number 91705
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 02:01 PM
1 - Place bike on center-stand and have suitable waste oil receptacle nearby to place underneath the respective valve cover being removed.
2 – You do not need to remove the plastic panels to do a valve adjustment – but a valve adjustment is usually followed by a Throttle Body Sync.
For details on how to remove the panels , please refer to this link http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35262
For details on how to conduct the Throttle Body Sync, please refer to this link http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35446
REMOVING VALVE COVER GUARD – below is shown the removal of the BMW Valve Cover Guards, if you do not have these, you can skip to the section on removing the valve cover itself. If you have another type of after-market guards refer to the installation instructions/user guide to remove.
You will be removing 3 T-30 Torx the first is shown:
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 02:34 PM
#2 of 3
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 02:35 PM
#3 of 3
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 02:37 PM
Cover removed with the respective screws - note the middle one is longer, this is important on reassembly!
Repeat for other cylinder
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 02:43 PM
VALVE COVER REMOVAL
The following pertains to both valve covers
The steps are as follows:
1 - Remove Spark Plug Coil Cover
2 - Remove Spark Plug Coil - special tool required
3 - Lay Spark Plug Coil and harness across Throttle Body/Intake
4 - Loosen 4 T-40 Torx bolts
5 - Remove Cover - note small amount of oil will spill out - have something below to catch the oil.
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 02:46 PM
Removing the Spark Plug Coil Cover
The cover is made of plastic - pinch here by where the Spark Wire exists the cover and pull off the cover towards you - set aside.
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 03:15 PM
This is the Marc Parnes tool to remove the coil.
Please note the highlighted area - it contains a notch which fits snugly into the groove of the spark coil.
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 03:16 PM
Groove Detail on the Spark Coil
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 03:19 PM
Squarely fit the spark coil removal tool onto the spark coil.
Note 1 - if it is not fit squarely to the coil groove and you pull out you may damage your coil - DAMHIK
Note 2- my thumb is intentionally placed in this position so the placement of the tool could be observed.
Once properly fit - pull straight out - it will be snug
Note 3 - for ease of next removal you may want to apply a little silicone spray (sparingly) to the inside of the spark plug tube.
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 03:21 PM
Coil popped out
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 03:22 PM
Once coil assembly has been removed off of the spark plug - lay aside and out of the way.
Semper_Fi
04-29-2009, 03:24 PM
Before removing the valve cover it is a good idea to blow out the spark plug area out with compressed air to get rid of
any debris before you remove the plug.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:24 PM
After the plug recess hole has been cleared you can remove the valve cover.
Using a T-40 Torx remove the 4 highlighted bolts.
Please note that there will be a small amount of oil that will be lost during the cover removal, ensure you have an appropriate device to capture the spill.
RECYCLE NOTE: for proper disposal of waste fluid please refer to this link to find approved recycling centers in your area http://earth911.com/ - special thanks to Ted for providing the link.
hjhjh
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:39 PM
With the cover removed you can now access the valve train.
Please note that there is a gasket seal for the spark plug which sometimes does not come out when you remove the cover.
You will find it in the highlighted area - please remove.
PART NOTE - the valve cover gasket is very robust - there is no need to replace it. Treat it with care and you can reuse the gaskets many times with no issues.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:43 PM
Shown below are the gaskets associated to the valve cover.
These parts will later be cleaned and properly mounted during re-assembly.
Highlighted is the circular gasket for the spark plug shown earlier
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:47 PM
REMOVING THE SPARK PLUG
I use an extended socket I obtained from Harbor Freight - there are different solutions to this I opted for this one.
Socket information below:
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:49 PM
Plug Removal.
In preparation for the valve adjustment, it is a good idea to have both covers off and the spark plugs out.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:52 PM
At this point you can continue to the valve adjustment section - The next step, removal of the secondary spark plug is optional.
Detailed next is the location and removal of the Secondary spark plug.
Note - it is not required to remove the secondary plug to adjust the valves.
Location of spark coil for the secondary plug is shown highlighted in green.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:55 PM
You remove this cover to remove the spark coil
Please note that one of the screws is missing as that is also used for the Cylinder cover.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:57 PM
Once cover is removed you have full access to the spark coil and you can pull it off.
No special tools needed to remove this spark coil, grasp it and pull down gently.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 01:58 PM
Final point of secondary plug.
The plug is not vertical in the head - something to note for re-assembly
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 02:04 PM
VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
1 - set respective cylinder to TDC
2 - adjust valve to specified gap
3 - repeat for other cylinder
Once complete with item 3 the valve adjustment procedure is complete and this is followed by a TBS - Throttle Body Sync.
4 - reassemble bike
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 02:19 PM
Setting the cylinder to TDC.
It is CRITICAL that the respective cylinder to have it's valves adjusted be at TDC (Top Dead Center)
To do so you need to position the drive train in two specific locations by "bumping" the transmission for each respective cylinder.
It is CRITICAL that when the transmission is bumped the "bumping" is done with the rear wheel going in the Drive direction.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 02:25 PM
How to bump:
1 - Turn ignition on but DO NOT start bike
2 - With the Instrument Panel illuminated watch the gear indicator and put the transmisson in 6th Gear
3 - Turn ignition off
Now bump the rear wheel in the direction of travel until the required alignment mark is reached to adjust the specific valve train.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 02:33 PM
Adjusting the CLUTCH SIDE Valves
Bump the bike in gear until you see the following alignment mark shown below.
It needs to be at the 3 o'clock position - if you missed it - bump the engine around until you get it - DO NOT BUMP BACKWARDS!
Please note the alignment marks are only visible from the Throttle-side cylinder
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 02:42 PM
It does not matter which valves you adjust first - I selected the Exhaust.
SPECIAL PROCESS NOTE - before you loosen the lock nuts make sure that the valve train has some minor movement. Meaning that you can grab a set of valve followers and move them up and down and you will hear and feel some clicking as the valve train moves - this is an other supporting indication for TDC
With the engine in the correct position to adjust the Clutch side valves - gently loosen the 10mm lock nuts as shown, you want them so they are just loose - not unscrewed.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 02:44 PM
The exhaust valves require a 0.30mm clearance.
Below shows the placement of the feeler gauge.
I use BMW gauges
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 02:49 PM
Adjustment process
Get's a little busy but what you do is:
- with the feeler gauge checking the drag
- adjust the 3mm hex to get a nice steady drag
- tighten the 10mm wrench and check the drag again - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN - as you can strip out adjuster; Using three fingers and a short grab on the wrench will be enough
Please note the addition of the second feeler gauge - this is placed to ensure that the rocker does not move during the adjustment.
When complete swap positions and repeat.
Repeat as neccesary until the drag tension on each exhaust valve is as close to each other as possible.
May take a few minutes - do not rush - take your time.
Semper_Fi
04-30-2009, 03:08 PM
Once complete with the step above do a double check by simultaneously checking the drag with both hands; confirm the tension of the feeler gauges are equal – if neccesary adjust, else you have completed the exhaust side clutch valves and can proceed to adjust the clutch side intake valves.
Semper_Fi
05-26-2009, 02:26 PM
Adjusting the Intake Side Valves
As on the Exhaust side you need to loosen the lock nuts
Shown below are the lock nuts on the Intake valves
Semper_Fi
05-26-2009, 02:32 PM
Check the clearance using a 0.15mm gauge - shown is the BMW one.
Semper_Fi
05-26-2009, 02:51 PM
Adjusting the valve.
Place a 0.15mm feelt gauge into the valve that is not being adjusted - this is to eliminate any rocker movement - this is exactly how it was done with the exhaust valve; except now you use the required feeler size for the intake.
I check the amount of pull on the feeler gauge by setting the wrench in such a position that it does not move when I let it go and then pull on the gauge.
I control the tension with the 3mm allen - once set then I tighten and re-check.
Once set repeat the process for the other valve, except now you swap feelers.
Take your time - don't rush
Semper_Fi
05-26-2009, 02:55 PM
The goal is to be as close to each as possible.
If both have the same amount of drag then the Clutch Side Valve adjustment is complete and you can proceed to the Throttle Side Valve adjustment.
Semper_Fi
05-26-2009, 03:13 PM
Adjusting the THROTTLE SIDE Valves
Bump the bike in gear until you see the following alignment mark shown below.
It needs to be at the 3 o'clock position - if you missed it - bump the engine around until you get it - DO NOT BUMP BACKWARDS!
Please note the alignment marks are only visible from the Throttle-side cylinder
Once set in the position below - proceed with the Throttle valve side adjustment as was done with the Clutch side.
Semper_Fi
05-26-2009, 03:16 PM
VALVE COVER REASSEMBLY NOTES
Once you have completed both cylinder valve adjustments it is time to put the bike back together.
There are two items to be aware when re-installing the valve covers.
1 - is the o-ring gasket for the spark plug
2 - be aware of the shouldered bolts for attaching the valve cover to the head.
First the oring
Make sure it is clean and prepare to install on the inside of the valve cover.
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:20 PM
Mount o-ring onto the valve cover
Special note - the valve cover screws were not installed - they can not be removed.
Please note how they are shouldered - more details to follow
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:23 PM
Close up of the shouldered bolt for the valve cover.
The imporantance of this is that as you are tightening you will bottom out onto the head. once there do not continue to tighten.
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:26 PM
Prior to mounting the valve cover you need to reinstall the valve cover gasket.
A couple of things to be aware:
- it is very robust, take good care of it and it can be installed many times
- it is directional - it can not be put in incorrectly.
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:34 PM
Installing the cover
Note that the spark plug gasket can move during the installation process so it is very important that when you put on the cover it is not canted in any way.
Go straight in and then as a guide align the top two valve cover bolts.
Once the bolts are touching start them by hand - ensuring proper thread engagment - and tighten enough so that you can then start all the other cover bolts.
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:36 PM
Be aware that the valve cover bolts have washers with gaskets that move around all over the place.
Ensure you have proper alignment before final tightening - this will prevent oil leaks
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:38 PM
Example for properly secured bolt - repeat for all 4
Tighten diagonally opposite to 10Nm.
Note - I tighten them until the shouldered part of the bolt bottoms onto the head.
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:52 PM
Once the cover is on - install the spark plug.
Torque spec is 20Nm - I set them for hand-tight
Once the spark plug is in push on the spark plug coil - you will hear and feel an audible "pop" as it seats in.
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:54 PM
Pop on the spark plug coil cover
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 04:55 PM
Install any Cylinder Guard covers that you may have
Semper_Fi
05-29-2009, 05:10 PM
At this point the Throttle Side has been reassembled.
Repeat the same steps for the Clutch Side.
Once that is complete the Valve Adjustment is complete :dance
**************SPECIAL NOTE****************
The Throttle Body Service is usually done after a valve adjustment, at this stage, before putting the rest of the plastic back on the bike is a wonderful opportunity to do just that.
If desired to do the Throttle Body Service - follow this link for those instructions, http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35446, else button the bike up and go for a ride!!
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