intermittent total electrical loss

[glwestcott]

Bike is a 2001 R1100RT with about 90,000 miles on it. Yesterday when I started it, it started fine and then shut off as if I had turned the key off, no display lights, no headlight, engine stopped. I turned key off and then back on and everything lit up so I started it again and the same thing happened. I apparently can repeat the process as often as I like, but it does seem to not bode well for a trip out the garage. Any thoughts?

[tommcgee]

Start at the battery and tighten the terminals. Common problem.

[glwestcott]

Thanks, Tom, I'll try that first after work.

[bmwmick]

Since you can re-create the failure, get it in the failing state and then wiggle the main wiring harness that feeds the ignition switch. There have been several cases of broken wires in that harness up near the switch. Usually, the break is near a cable tie that was installed too tightly from the factory.
Another possible failure is the ignition switch itself. Item #6
here: http://tinyurl.com/c7trxg

Good luck

[glwestcott]

Since you can re-create the failure, get it in the failing state and then wiggle the main wiring harness that feeds the ignition switch. There have been several cases of broken wires in that harness up near the switch. Usually, the break is near a cable tie that was installed too tightly from the factory.
Another possible failure is the ignition switch itself. Item #6
here: http://tinyurl.com/c7trxg

Good luck

Thanks, Mick. It appears that's it. When I wiggle the harness, I can get it to go on and off. Will check out the wiring in it and see what's what. Thanks for the tip and the link!

[bmwmick]

Thanks, Mick. It appears that's it. When I wiggle the harness, I can get it to go on and off. Will check out the wiring in it and see what's what. Thanks for the tip and the link!

If you can identify the exact area of the break, you should be able to splice a new piece of wire in. If it's the switch, just replace it.

[FrankCann]

did you fix the problem yet? I just fixed a shutoff problem on my 04 1150rt. The main group of wires coming out of the key switch pay attention to the green and the red wires. mine was the green.Post when you find it so others can learn. Good luck.

[sportridertex]

A friend of mine bought a new R1100RT in 1996, and he had a similar problem, bike went totally lucas on him (electrically dead), turns out it was a wiring connecter that was not fully seated.

I don't know where it was on the bike, but it was a main wiring harness connector.

Dealer was able to find it, finally after the 3rd road service call

That's when Perry of Fort Worth BMW was the local dealer.

[CanadianGS]

I'm sure I'm having the same issue on my 97 r1100GS. Everythings fine until I try to steer, bike goes dead and I lose all power/lights. Moving the wires going into the switch, cause the power to come and go. How do I tell if its a wire or the switch? The white plastic part that the wires go into appears loose, is that normal? Is that part the connector plug or the switch itself?
Thanks

[PGlaves]

3 weeks ago I put new battery in a bike (F650 but that's not material to the story). Yesterday I tried to start the bike - heard a little crackle sound and got nothing. I checked the connections. They were all tight. I could read 12.7 volts on the battery post but .48 volts on the other end of the cable where it connects to the starter relay. Recheck the connection again.

I finally took it apart and used a pen knife to lightly scrape the side of the terminal post where the cable clamps up against it. I'm not sure what was on the battery post but it was a pretty good insulator.

[CanadianGS]

After fiddling with the switch/wires, It appeared to be a bad wire not the switch itself. I cut back the black "protective" sheath the the ignition wires run through. The red wire was completely broken in two and the green was well on its way, about 3" from the switch. I was planning on splicing in a small section of new wire as a repair. However, the wires look and feel a little brittle, I think its just a matter of time before they break close to or right next to the ignition switch, making a repair impossibe.
The switch/wire assembly is available in Canada for the crazy price of $165.00can, approx. $150.00US. (which maybe the subject of another thread. Why does it sell in the States for $90.00 us! come on Motorrad Canada get real, be fair!). I going to do the temporary repair until Im in the states this summer, and buy the switch there.

Anyways, My question now is: How do you remove those tamper proof bolts to remove the ignition switch for replacement? Or do they not have to come out? :dunno

Anyone know?

Thanks

[bmwmick]

You drill the heads of the anti-tamper screws just enough to be able to remove the ignition switch.

[CanadianGS]

Thanks,
So I drill off the heads, pull down the switch (white plastic part), now how does the new switch stay in place. I'm sorry if this is obvious, but I just dont want to screw anything up.

[bmwmick]

The switch will come with two new screws. The heads will break off as you install them.

[CanadianGS]

Nice, Thanks very much.
It comes with two new screws, well that explains the $160 Can.:scratch

[bmwmick]

I believe you only have to remove the switch and not the ignition lock. P/N 61322306103 Unless I'm missing something. There is one socket head cap screw holding the switch to the lock asm.