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View Full Version : HEXHEAD Tech - R1200RT - Gas Tank Removal - 2008 Model


Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 01:51 PM
The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

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Apply all safety rules when handling volatile liquids

Specifics:
space- Bike shown is a 2008 R1200RT
space- Heated Seats
space- No Factory Radio

Tools Needed:
space- 5mm Hex Socket
space- T-25 Torx Socket
space- Small Straight Blade Screwdriver

Space – you will need a bit of space to stow away the panels and tank as they are removed 10’ x 6’ is minimal

Recommendation – Not required, but, it is easier to remove the tank the emptier it is,
can be done full but remember there will be 7+ gallons of fuel.

Process Steps:
space- 1 All appropriate plastic panels removed
Please refer to http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35262 for how to do this
space- 2 Remove Center Trim Screw
space- 3 Disconnect Electrical Connections to Fuel Pump
space- 4 Disconnect Fuel Lines (2)
space- 5 Disconnect Vent Lines (2)
space- 6 Remove Tank Mounting Hardware
space- 7 Remove Tank

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:11 PM
Once you have both sides of the bike plastic removed you can start working on removing the tank.

First off, you need to remove the center trim screw, this is a T-25

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:22 PM
Looking at the Clutch side of the tank you will see where the fuel/vent lines, electrical connections and harness which need to be removed.

In blue highlight you had the fuel lines, in green highlight is shown the electrical connections and in orange is the vent line.

To the left hand side is the wire harness that needs to be removed.

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:32 PM
There are 2 electrical connectors, one with 3 wires and one with 4.

Remove the 3 wire as shown below.

CAREFULLY open up the lock feature of the connector mount and remove the 3 wire connector.

I am using a small straight slot screwdriver and just barely opening up the lock feature

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:33 PM
Do the same for the 4 conductor connector

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:38 PM
Once the connectors are removed you can remove the wire harness from its capture points along the tank

If you note the construction of the clip you will see two sets of serrated "teeth" which are the locking features.

If you take your trusty small blade screwdriver and CAREFULLY Twist in a clock wise manner you will disengage the teeth

Below is the detail of the lock feature - the next picture is unlocking

NOTE - the red and green wrapped wiring is NOT OEM - it is owner installed.

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:41 PM
Twisting to open.

Once the harness is freed lay out of the way.

Next are the fuel lines

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:53 PM
Press down on this silver tab (highlighted in green)

The process is while pressing down on the tab hold the bottom fuel line on the tank head and pull on the top of the line and will disconnect.

Note - there may be a small amount of gas spilled

The next two pictures will show the removal

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:55 PM
Pressing the tab and holding the bottom of the fuel line

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:56 PM
Line disconnects.

Note again a small amount of gas will spill.

Simalar process is now done to the other fuel line.

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 02:59 PM
The other quick release is the same as the previous.

1 - press tab in (highlighted)
2 - pull connection up

Note - minimal gas spill will occur

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:00 PM
Push in tab

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:02 PM
Pull out connector

Note - minor gas spill

Last item to remove off of the tank control unit is the vent line.

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:14 PM
Carefully pry up on the vent line and lay out of the way

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:16 PM
Vent removed

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:19 PM
Once all the tank control connections are removed there are 2 additional items that need to be addressed.

1 - a vent line connection by the glove compartment box

2 - 4, 5mm hex screws that fasten the tank onto the frame.

Shown below is the vent line that needs to be disconnected.

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:22 PM
Tank Fastener Bolt #1 (Clutch Side)

Please note you do not have to remove the entire thing just loosen it as the fits into these 2 front retaining points

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:23 PM
Tank Bolt #2 Clutch Side

This one you do remove - please note that the screw goes thru a metal sleeve that usually falls out as you remove the tank.

Ensure you have this sleeve installed when you put the tank back on the bike.

Again 5mm Hex

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:41 PM
Tank Bolt #3 Throttle Side 5mm Hex

Loosen no need to remove.

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:42 PM
Tank Bolt #4 Throttle side - remove fully.

This one also has an internal metal sleeve that can fall out during removal.

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:45 PM
Removing the tank – there is more weight on the left side of the bike due to tank geometry, the best way is to grab the tank from the left (clutch) side with your left hand up under the front grabbing low, and your right hand grabbing by the rear right, lift up slow and pull back – the tank should come right out. Once removed set tank down in a clear out space.

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:47 PM
Sans Tank - you're done :dance

Semper_Fi
04-28-2009, 03:49 PM
Assembly Points of Interest

space-The bike assembles and disassembles cleanly and easily – if you find yourself forcing anything STOP because something is wrong.

space-When connecting the vent lines ensure they are not kinked, bound or trapped under the tank.

space-The rubber grommets contain inner metal sleeves insure that they are inserted prior to install.

space-If there is any possibility that you've nicked one of the O-rings on the fuel line disconnects, it should be replaced before reassembly.
These are a VITON Size 011 O-Ring, available from your friendly local dealer, or from Grainger Supply for MUCH less money (100 cost about $11.00). It's also helpful to put a smear of engine oil around the O ring before trying to reconnect the quick disconnects - they slide together much easier that way, and the engine oil isn't harmful to the engine or emissions systems.