Clutch Spline Lube, How often, How Hard?

[Boxwrench]

How often is this done and how and where to find the steps for it to follow?
A member here from my Zuki boardsays it is an all day job and not easy.

[PGlaves]

How often is this done and how and where to find the steps for it to follow?
A member here from my Zuki boardsays it is an all day job and not easy.

If the bike is clean - and all you do is take it apart and put it back together after lubing the spline - you can do it in one day. I usually wind up futzing with other things while it is apart so I take longer.

How often? I say every 40 to 50K. The first being the most important because how well it is done at the factory is spotty - some well, some a little dab won't do!

[Boxwrench]

bike even tho 9 years old is in BMW age a youngster at 16K+

Should I add it to my "to do list"?

[Lank]

I am just mildly confused as to the necessity of spline lube. Is this procedure model specific or all dry clutch bikes? Later models?? I have been told by a mechanic not to worry about it, to just ride it out but I prefer preventive maintenance over towing any day. R1150GS 2004 35K.

[PGlaves]

I am just mildly confused as to the necessity of spline lube. Is this procedure model specific or all dry clutch bikes? Later models?? I have been told by a mechanic not to worry about it, to just ride it out but I prefer preventive maintenance over towing any day. R1150GS 2004 35K.

There appears to be no correct answer: You won't find spline lubrication on a chart of recommended mileage intervals for service. Some dealers advise it needs to be done periodically. Some dealers ask, "Say what!

Yet just this month I read of a case where BMW denied warranty coverage on a trashed input shaft because splines were supposed to be lubricated. Or at least that is what the owner of the bike reported.

It is my carefully considered opinion that the clutch hub/input shaft splines ought to be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated at approximately 40 to 50K intervals. That opinion is based on taking a number of bikes apart and seeing the dry rusty splines slowly grinding themselves (or having ground themselves) to powdered metal shards.

Some folks claim only bikes with a misaligned transmission wear splines, while one of the most respected Oilhead repair specialists I know of has said he has never seen a real case of misalignment, and has seen numerous worn splines. Not that there haven't been a few cases of misaligned transmissions - just not all of the ones with rusty splines. And I have seen dry splines on bikes that have ultimately gone 300,000 miles with minimal shaft wear or hub wear - with periodic lubrication. It seems to me that if misalignment caused the lack of lubrication then the parts would not have lasted 300K miles.

So as an owner and rider you get to choose who you wish to believe. I believe me because I've seen too many dried up, rusty, worn, splines to think they don't need periodic lubrication.

As for which bikes: well Airheads, classic K bikes, and certainly the R1100 and R1150 Oilheads. I don't have any experience with moderate to high mileage R1200s to say for sure - but also have no reason to suspect they are any better than the 1100s or 1150s in the spline department.

[nrpetersen]

It is a simple job to remove the starter and look inside the clutch housing to view the area around the clutch disk spline. If you see any debris there, it is time for a lube job. If you happen to have a bike that has perfect spline alignment (i. the engine and transmission shafts run on perfectly on the same centerline) there will be essentially no debris around the spline area. Celebrate with a beer.

The debris is not a quantitative measurement, but it is the first indication of the need for lubrication. Even if you decide to tear it down for a lube job, get a good sharp closeup photo before cleaning anything up, and post it to give the rest of us something to compare it to.

Starter removal also gives you a chance (with sandpapered fingertips) to gingerly rotate the disk slightly with the clutch lever pulled in, and see the backlash in the spline, which is a measure of spline wear.

My 2000 R1100RT at 21000 miles was pristine inside the housing, and had less than 3/16 inch backlash on the outside diameter of the clutch plate. I'm not worrying about it (yet) as it obviously has good engine-to-transmission alignment. I now wish I had taken a picture (sorry).

Some of the other photo posters here that have experienced failures have a lot of obvious debris and much more backlash in the area. At 35K miles, do this inspection soon........

Measuring the alignment in the event of a spline failure is messy, and I suspect most don't know how or have the setup to do it properly. It is a $2000+ failure.

[Lank]

Thanks Big Bend, exactly the answer I was looking for. Only one way to know for sure and in about 10k I'm gonna find out. I will also pull that starter soon and do a prelim insp.


Take care of the little things and the big things just take care of themselves.

[Bohan]

If the bike is clean - and all you do is take it apart and put it back together after lubing the spline - you can do it in one day. I usually wind up futzing with other things while it is apart so I take longer.

How often? I say every 40 to 50K. The first being the most important because how well it is done at the factory is spotty - some well, some a little dab won't do!

Has anyone posted detailed instructions on how to accomplish this job?

[Jeff488]

Has anyone posted detailed instructions on how to accomplish this job?

If you like, I will send you a rather detailed checklist of how to do this.
It's a word doc.
I got it from another member based in Utah.
PM me with your email address, and you'll get it shortly.

[PGlaves]

If you have a good repair manual then follow the manual instructions for removal of the transmission. Then clean the clutch hub and input shaft. Carefully inspect.

APPLY FRESH LUBRICANT TO THE INPUT SHAFT ONLY.

Then follow the manual; instructions for the installation of the transmission.

[Jeff488]

If the bike is clean - and all you do is take it apart and put it back together after lubing the spline - you can do it in one day. I usually wind up futzing with other things while it is apart so I take longer.

How often? I say every 40 to 50K. The first being the most important because how well it is done at the factory is spotty - some well, some a little dab won't do!

Are there other things one should do while the back half of the bike is disassembled, or are the other things you speak of not related to the spline lube.
Reason I ask is that I plan to do the lube next weekend and will have to order parts this weekend to have them here on time. Seals or ??
My RT has 42700 miles on it. No sign of shifting problems.

TIA,
Jeff

[PGlaves]

Are there other things one should do while the back half of the bike is disassembled, or are the other things you speak of not related to the spline lube.
Reason I ask is that I plan to do the lube next weekend and will have to order parts this weekend to have them here on time. Seals or ??
My RT has 42700 miles on it. No sign of shifting problems.

TIA,
Jeff

Unless there are signs of lubricant (engine or transmission oil) leakage you shouldn't need to worry about seals. Some folks do replace the engine rear main seal just because they are close. I don't usually recommend that - because without a good seal driver leakage from a new seal happens too often. I do have a factory seal driver but generally don't disturb seals until they show signs of leakage.

You may disturb the ABS and if so need to have brake fluid on hand. I usually check any visible wiring and connections etc while I am in there with that much apart. I always drain and refill the final drive - less chance to spill it all over - so gear lube and a couple of crush washers are needed for that.

Other than that carefully inspect what you can see, and deal with what you find.

[jasonTDI]

FWIW, I just had Mischler's BMW in Beaver Dam, WI do a sintered clutch in my R1100GS. The bike had 30K on it of heavy touring loaded use and was getting soft. Love it. I just don't have time to do it myself since i own a VW Diesel repair shop...Cheaper to farm it out.

Anyway, the splines were slightly dry and needing lube in mine but in good condition.:clap

[Jeff488]

Unless there are signs of lubricant (engine or transmission oil) leakage you shouldn't need to worry about seals. Some folks do replace the engine rear main seal just because they are close. I don't usually recommend that - because without a good seal driver leakage from a new seal happens too often. I do have a factory seal driver but generally don't disturb seals until they show signs of leakage.

You may disturb the ABS and if so need to have brake fluid on hand. I usually check any visible wiring and connections etc while I am in there with that much apart. I always drain and refill the final drive - less chance to spill it all over - so gear lube and a couple of crush washers are needed for that.

Other than that carefully inspect what you can see, and deal with what you find.

OK, thanks for your time.
Jeff