ABS Bleed valve confusion

[Boxwrench]

It is past time to bleed the ABS system on my 2000 RT according to the bike records.
This is my 1st BMW and ABS system.
On the bikes ABS system I am at square one.

I have the PDF file on the how.
W/ a member suggestion I contacted Speed Bleeder.com to find out what one I need for my bike ( not listed on the chart I used.).

My confusion comes as the PDF shows the need for 2, max, of one type.

Speed bleeders says :

"The size(s) for your application is as follows:

2 bleeders on the ABS unit takes SB1010
6 bleeders on the ABS unit takes (2) SB7100 and (4) SB7100S"

Do I buy 2 or 6 or 8? :scratch

[norton]

You need 2 Speed Bleeders for the front. One for each caliper.
You need 1 for the rear. One for the lone caliper.

You do not need anything for the ABS unit under the tank as you do not bleed that on a regular basis. On the 1100 there are 2 bleed valves on the ABS, and if you are new to the bike then you may want to bleed those once. Just follow the lines to see if they are front or back.

The downside to the Speed Bleeders is that if there is a lot of air in the line they don't work well. What I had to do in that case is use the OEM bleeders to get the system working and then switch to the Speed Bleeders.

The original question confuses the 1150 with a servo and the 1100 with ABS.

[Boxwrench]

thanks.

Since it is still new to me I think I will do the ABS unit too.
how much of the bike do I hafta take apart to get at it?

what about using a vacuum hand pump that can be used on brakes also in addition to the bleeders?

[norton]

To bleed the ABS you'll have to remove the panels as well as the tank. To do just the bleed you don't have to remove anything (body wise). For a brake bleed the proper thing to do would be remove the calipers, clean, inspect, and lubricate them. Remove the pads, depress the the caliper pistons, shim them with wood or other appropriate material and do the bleed with them in that position.
As far as a vacuum bleeder, folks use them, but in this case (with Speed Bleeders) it's one more thing. Speed Bleeders do make it easy.

One thought on the ABS bleed, to remove the tank just to bleed the ABS is a lot more work. Consider doing that portion along with some other maintenance item such as a fuel filter change, new front shock, throttle cable replacement, or any time that the tank needs comes off.

[DrPaul]

Bleeding is necessary ONLY if air is introduced into the system. If the ABS modulator unit reservoirs are not drained too low, no air will enter the system and there will be no need to bleed them. I remove most of the old fluid with a turkey baster and refill w/ fresh DOT4. Open the caliper bleeders and let the old stuff out and the new stuff in. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the modulator and add as it drops. When the fluid exiting the caliper is purty and clear, close the bleeder and bring the modulator level up to the full ring. I've never messed with pushing the caliper pucks apart but it will force some of the old stuff back into the caliper for a more complete drain. Remember if you do that, you need to recheck the reservoir level after actuating the brake and top off again.

[Boxwrench]

Bleeding is necessary ONLY if air is introduced into the system. If the ABS modulator unit reservoirs are not drained too low, no air will enter the system and there will be no need to bleed them. I remove most of the old fluid with a turkey baster and refill w/ fresh DOT4. Open the caliper bleeders and let the old stuff out and the new stuff in. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the modulator and add as it drops. When the fluid exiting the caliper is purty and clear, close the bleeder and bring the modulator level up to the full ring. I've never messed with pushing the caliper pucks apart but it will force some of the old stuff back into the caliper for a more complete drain. Remember if you do that, you need to recheck the reservoir level after actuating the brake and top off again.

but how much of the bike do I have to dissaemble to get at it?

like mentioned above...fairing, sides, tank and battery? Sheeesh not much bike left after that! Almost might as well do the clutch spline lube while I'm at it!

[DrPaul]

but how much of the bike do I have to dissaemble to get at it?

like mentioned above...fairing, sides, tank and battery? Sheeesh not much bike left after that! Almost might as well do the clutch spline lube while I'm at it!You will have to remove both side panels and the fuel tank. The battery can stay put. I know this sounds daunting but with a good manual or one of the many threads from this and other forums, it is not really that difficult. Besides, you don't have to do it that often. I set aside an early Spring day each year to do the brakes (wheel and control circuits), adjust valves, clean and balance the throttle bodies. Every other year I add fuel filter replacement and check/retension/replace alternator belt. None of this requires much in the way of special tools or expertise. Clutch spline lube is a different matter.

[OLSENSAN]

I have read the procedure to do ABS bleeding and I have a question concering the thickness of the shims. Do they need to be exact or aprroximate. My one shimm measures .435 inches and the write up says.430. Is a few thousanths a big deal or is it that the pistons just stay retracted far enough to bleed asmuch of the old fluid out? -go

[DrPaul]

Is a few thousanths a big deal or is it that the pistons just stay retracted far enough to bleed asmuch of the old fluid out? -goIn the order your questions were asked: No, yes.

[MCMXCIVRS]

Like others have noted, there is no need to bleed at the ABS modulator unless you get air into the system. The only reason the bleeder are there is to allow air to be purged from the unit. Since it is situated fairly high in the system and due to its design, air can become trapped in it and not be pushed through to the calipers. Thus, you need to be able to bleed air out at that point, When doing a fluid flush, as long as you never pump the resevoir dry and introduce air, the fluid will be completely flushed from the master cylinder through the ABS modulator and through to the calipers. There will not be any need to flush at the modulator to just change fluid. If you want to take all the body panels and the tank off and flush there for absolutely no gain whatsoever that is your option, but it is a lot of work for no usefull purpose.

To make the job quicker and easier, it does help to push the caliper pistons back to force as much volume of fluid out of them. I do so with the bleeder cracked open rather than forcing the fluid back through the system. Secondly, I use a syringe to suck the majority of the old fluid out of the resevoir first so I don't have to flush that through the system to get rid of it. The remaining fluid in the lines and modulaotr is all you end up needing to pump through and takes very little to do so.

[DrPaul]

If you want to take all the body panels and the tank off and flush there for absolutely no gain whatsoever that is your option, but it is a lot of work for no usefull purpose.To properly flush the wheel circuits (ABS unit to brake calipers), the side panels and tank must be removed to access the reservoirs in the ABS unit. Likewise, the control circuits (master cylinders to ABS unit) can only be bled at the ABS unit. There's no way to avoid tupperware and tank removal.

[flars]

"...To properly flush the wheel circuits (ABS unit to brake calipers), the side panels and tank must be removed to access the reservoirs in the ABS unit. Likewise, the control circuits (master cylinders to ABS unit) can only be bled at the ABS unit. There's no way to avoid tupperware and tank removal..."

This statement only applies to the 1150. The 1100 doesn't have two seperate circuits.

[MCMXCIVRS]

This statement only applies to the 1150. The 1100 doesn't have two seperate circuits.

Exactly, no servo brakes on his 2000 R1100RT.

[DrPaul]

"...To properly flush the wheel circuits (ABS unit to brake calipers), the side panels and tank must be removed to access the reservoirs in the ABS unit. Likewise, the control circuits (master cylinders to ABS unit) can only be bled at the ABS unit. There's no way to avoid tupperware and tank removal..."

This statement only applies to the 1150. The 1100 doesn't have two seperate circuits.Of course. I need to pay more attention!