HEXHEAD Tech - R1200XX - Brake Pad Replacement DIY

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This pictorial is for replacing the brake pads on a R1200XX series bike. The rear set will be adressed first, followed by the front sets.

Specifics:
-Bike shown is a 2005 R1200RT
-Brake pads were not at end of life, however changed during major service


Process:
-Remove rear caliper
-Remove old pads
-Install new pads
-Re-set the brake system

Tools needed:
-T-45 Torx wrench
-Small punch & hammer
-Needle nosed pliers

Consumables:
-Brake pads of your choice
-Anti sieze paste
-Brake cleaner spray

Now to the fun part, rear brake:


Set bike securely on centerstand
NOTE: On GS models remove the mudguard held by three torx screws
Loosen, but do not remove the two torx-45 bolts holding the calipers as indicated by arrows #1

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Locate lock clip holding the retaining pin at rear of caliper, inboard towards the wheel and remove it. Set aside in a safe place for re-use.

The lock clip is # 1 in the photo, the retaining pin is #2

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NOTE: Before continuing - if you or your mechanic has added brake fluid to the reservoir between pad changes - you MUST siphon some off or it will overflow when you install the new pads! Normally - no fluid should be added between pad changes - the fluid level high/low corresponds to new pads/worn pads. BMW is clever that way.


Take the flat punch and gently tap the retaining pin from its bore and set aside.
After removing the retaining pin, remove the two Torx bolts you loosened previously and set aside.
Wiggle the caliper fore to aft and roll a little toward the wheel to widen the pads from contact with the rotor.
As you hold your finger where the retaining pin was removed, lift the assembly off the mounting points and turn it over upside down from normal.

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Lift the caliper off the disc, holding the pads in where you removed the pin.


Note the flat spring marked # 1... you may need to reset it in place before putting new pads in. The arrow faces in the direction of wheel rotation.

Note the orientation of the pads and when setting the new ones in place, there is a slot you need to be sure the leading edges fit in before you put the long pin back. This is also the edge of pad where a little dab of that copper anti-seize paste works well, as well as a small dab on the pin.

Note on rear pads - the inside (toward wheel) pad from BMW is thinner than the outside pad. No one actually knows why - but it is. Most aftermarket pads do the same. It's normal and not something to be concerned about!

Replace the pin by tapping it in (remember to orientate pin so you can put the lock clip in) and replace lock clip when you can see the small hole. This helps with a second set of hands to hold the caliper while you tap the pin in... it can be done without help....just is a bit easier with a helper.
Reinstall the caliper, you may have to widen the spacing between the pads a little, use a dull flat object and don't gouge the pads!
Install and torque the two Torx bolts, start bike and apply rear brakes to refill pistons.


New brakes do need some heat cycles to bed in... don't expect them to work 100% for a few stops . Also clean the rotor with brake cleaner while you have the caliper off, and a final swipe after installing the caliper isn't a bad idea.

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The front pads can be swapped without dropping the calipers from their mounts. In the first picture is one from a RT, the second picture will be from a R1200R. Same basic steps, the carriers are a bit different.

On the RT and GS:

Remove retainer clip #2 with needle nosed pliers
Remove pad retaining pin screw #3
Remove spring # 1 and notice arrow pointing in direction of normal wheel rotation

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A caliper from a R1200R

The first step is to remove the spring-cover by removing the two screws that retain it.

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One more shot of the R1200R caliper with the cover removed and the lock clip and pin visible:


On this style you first remove the lock clip with needlenose pliers and then slide the pin out of it's bore towards you (away from wheel center.)
On reassembly, lightly lube the pin with the anti-sieze paste

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Reassembly:

BMW makes snazzy tools, once again you can use a dull flat tool such as a small tire iron to push pads carefully apart.

Also, same as on the rear, if you added fluid to reservoir between pad changes, you will have to drain some off before doing this.. and it's a good time to check the fluid level anyway. Put a good absorbent rag between handlebar reservoir and painted parts!


Remove the brake pads and carefully set aside to match up new ones
Set new pads out and verify orientation as you removed old ones.


LIGHTLY grease the rear and the trailing end face of the pad backing plate. Anti-seize paste is used here, I use Permatex(tm) copper. Take care to grease ONLY the rear and the trailing end face of the backing plate. Excessive Grease on the backing plate could allow grease to make its way onto the friction pad and the brake disk. This would be a BAD THING!

A little grease goes a long way!:whistle


Install pads and reverse order of assembly using the first numbered picture:
Install spring (1) with the arrow pointing in the forward direction of travel.
Install screw (3). 7 Nm is the torque value...very small torque value so don't strip the dang screw!!
Install retainer (2).

Repeat process for second set...having fun yet?

Once the brake pads have been changed, clean both rotors with brake cleaner... you might have some of that copper paste on things.
With the ignition switched on, seat the new pads against the brake disks and check operation of the brake system.
Top off reservoir and remember the heat cycle and the bedding in of the new pads.

Congratulate yourself on a job well done! :clap