View Full Version : 94 R1100RS Quit running at speed
Bussp
04-16-2009, 08:50 PM
Well on my morning commute my bike just quit after about 30 miles. Cruising along at 50+ mph it just stalled. Coasted to the side of the rode and it wouldn't refire. Motor turned over but wouldn't start.
So far I've determined that I have spark, and fuel sprays out of the injectors. Also checked the compression and have 150 psi at both cylinders.
As for the fuel spraying out of the injector how do I know how much is the correct amount or can I assume that since it is spraying out there is enough fuel pressure.
Any place else I should look to see why it won't start? Can I suspect the hall sensor? If it is the Hall sensor is there a way to check it without just replacing it?
Thanks for the help.
Peter B
MotorradMike
04-17-2009, 06:51 AM
If you've got spark and injector spray the hall sensors are working.
Unlikely both plugs.
Unlikely timing went out.
I think it's down to water in the fuel.
Bussp
04-17-2009, 08:13 AM
I think it's down to water in the fuel.
If its bad gas wouldn't it just run really rough? I can't get it to start at all. It just turns over and won't catch.
Also, when it died it went from totally normal running to nothing in a matter of seconds.
MotorradMike
04-17-2009, 07:02 PM
Hi Peter:
Although 94 people have looked at this, nobody is answering. Not good.
Lets assume they are still thinking.
In the meantime, I think we can agree, if bad gas is bad enough, it won't burn at all. No sputtering, no nothing.
So, if you dump in some gas line antifreeze, shake it up as much as you can, drain some out, then try again, no harm no foul.
After that, I got nothing.
Prof. Robert
04-17-2009, 07:32 PM
Hey Peter,
I'm not familiar with the timing setup in the oilhead engine, but if you were driving a car, I'd suggest a stripped timing gear or broken timing chain. I've experienced both, and both exhibited the same symptoms that you describe.
Whatever the problem turns out to be, I hope it is an inexpensive and easy fix.
Robert
Prof. Robert
04-17-2009, 07:41 PM
Oh, I just had another thought, Peter.
Back when I was just a wee lad, my cousin (Jamie) got mad at his older brother (Donny) and put ping-pong balls in the gas tank of Don's Tiger Cub. The bike ran just fine (well, as fine as a Tiger Cub could) until the day it just quit running. The problem turned out to be an easy fix, and Jamie's keyster turned out to be easy kick. Donny was furious.
Robert
PGlaves
04-17-2009, 07:43 PM
The mere fact that it has spark and squirt does not automatically mean that the HES wiring isn't toast. I have seen them arc from wire to wire, sending a signal to the ECU that it is at top dead center when in fact in might be anywhere in the rotation. You can verify the integrity of the HES signal by shining a timing light into the hole and observing if it seems to be flashing the same place - or not while cranking the engine. Someplace around the OT or slightly advanced should ve visible somewhere in the window.
Bussp
04-19-2009, 07:19 PM
Here's an update and another question. Pulled the pump out of the tank and removed the filter. I'll put an external filter in the line. Reinstalled the pump, put gas in the tank. Did not reconnect the fuel line to the pressure regulator. Turned on the key and the pump ran for 2 seconds, as per normal. Now I wanted to measure the output of the pump so I figured that I could hold down the starter button for a five count and measure the volume pumped and compare this to recommended amount per the Haynes manual.
While holding the start button absolutely no fuel was pump and I could not here the pump running. Shouldn't the pump be running at this point?
PGlaves
04-20-2009, 11:41 AM
No - the pump is run by the Motronic - initiated by key-on power up, or a signal from the HES.
Now on the LJetronic equipped K75 and K100, it was the starter button that provided initial power.
Trying to measure volume is OK. I have never seen a running pump fail to produce enough volume though.
I would advise not to try to measure unregulated pressure. The last time I tried that I watched the pressure gauge hit the upper stop at 125 p.s.i., a split second before it came off the end of the hose, shot across the shop, hit the wall about 20 feet away, and fell to the floor, broken. I think I needed a better clamp. :)
Bussp
04-20-2009, 12:31 PM
I would advise not to try to measure unregulated pressure. The last time I tried that I watched the pressure gauge hit the upper stop at 125 p.s.i., a split second before it came off the end of the hose, shot across the shop, hit the wall about 20 feet away, and fell to the floor, broken. I think I needed a better clamp. :)
Paul
Can I get an accurate pressure reading from the 2 second pump run? Otherwise I can't get the bike running to have the pump start.
Last night I pulled the line going from the pump to the pressure regulator and then cycles the pump on (with the key) Gas just flowed into the can, but not with any real force. If 2 seconds is long enough then I'll try to check the pressure tonight making sure that I have the clamps tight!!
Thanks
mtboulder
04-22-2009, 12:52 PM
Try hooking a fuel pressure gauge up to the pump line. It should get up to 3+ Bars in the initial 2 secs.
Bussp
04-23-2009, 08:00 AM
Checked the fuel pressure and it is good.
Then removed the Hall sensor, stripped the insulation off the wires, and checked the pins. Turns out the lower sensor is cooked. Wires were actually good but testing the probes showed the sensor bad.
Time to bite the bullet and order a new sensor.
flars
04-23-2009, 08:02 AM
HES.
As PaulG said - just because it sparks, and has fuel delivery, doesn't mean they are happening at the right time.
I don't think a fuel pump problem would cause your symptoms since the bike should start to run badly, then eventually run out of fuel and die if it were strictly a fuel pump problem.
Is the tach doing anything weird when you try to start it?
If you haven't got a timing light, find someone who does. Otherwise, just replace the HES plate.
mtboulder
04-23-2009, 08:29 AM
Here's a source for the HES sensor. Go to Next Page at bottom of screen.
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/SearchResults.asp
Beemerboneyard.com also sells them.
Bussp
04-24-2009, 05:53 AM
Here's a source for the HES sensor.
Beemerboneyard.com also sells them.
Order from the Boneyard yesterday and the new hall sensor will be in my hand on Monday.
I'm away camping with the boys scouts this weekend so I wouldn't be able to ride anyways.
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