HEXHEAD Tech - R1200XX - Rear-Drive Oil Change - 2008 DIY

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The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.

Lastly, please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner. Most Auto Parts stores and service stations will accept used oil and lubricants, tires and batteries, please check for your local availability.

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Specifics:
- Bike shown is a 2008 R1200RT
- Heated Seat Option
- No Factory Radio

NOTE – please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner.
This procedure will generate approximately 0.25 liter (quart) of waste gear oil.

Process:

- Re-locate muffler
- Remove Rear Tire
- Remove Speed Sensor from mounting location on the final drive
- Drain and fill final drive to specification.


NOTE – products used are by personal choice and do not represent any affiliation to the product lines.

NOTE – this procedure is for a bike with the new style final drive – you can quickly identity a new style final drive because the drain port is located at the 6 o’clock position. The previous version had the drain port at the 9 o’clock position.

Since the drain is at the 6 o’clock position (refer to highlighted area) it is not necessary to drop the final drive to drain.

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Warm up final drive for easier oil drain - taking a short ride is an excellent way to do this.

Place bike on center-stand and place a suitable waste oil receptacle underneath the final drive of the bike.

Relocate the Muffler to allow access for Rear tire removal

Relocation of muffler and rear wheel removal:

Tools needed:

15mm Socket - for the Muffler Clamp Bolt
T45 Torx for the Muffler Hangar
T50 Torx for the Wheel Bolts

CAUTION - Exhaust Parts May Be Hot!!

Loosen the clamp bolt (highlighted) - no need to remove

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CAUTION - Exhaust parts may be hot!!

Using a T45 remove the muffler hangar bolt to allow the muffler to be swung out of the way.

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Once the Muffler hanger bolt is removed you can physically swing the muffler out of the way to gain access to remove the rear wheel.

CAUTION: Exhaust Parts May be Hot

Grasp with your left hand by the green highlighted area and grasp with your right the yellow highlighted area and then walk the muffler down with your right while supporting with your left.

You do not need to remove the muffler to remove the wheel.

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Put the bike in gear and using a T-50 torx remove the five wheel bolts and remove the rear wheel. Take care not to topple the bike off the centerstand.

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Special Note - the threads of the wheel bolts DO NOT get any lubricant of any kind applied to them, they come out dry, they go in dry.

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Once the rear wheel is removed put the bike in neutral so you can move the disc at will to be able to access the speed sensor and speed sesor wire retaining clip, highlighted in red

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After removing the the sensor and clip retaining screw (T-25) you can VERY CAREFULLY pry up the speed sensor and remove it.

There is an o-ring on the speed sensor providing a snug fit - be careful not to nick or tear it.

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Unclip cable retainer from final drive arm to maximize cable slack

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Once Speed sensor cable is unbolted and unclipped, rotate the rear disk in such a manner as to be able to pull out the speed sensor

Clean speed sensor and o-ring – please note that on 08 and newer models the speed sensor is NOT MAGNETIC

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Once you have the sensor removed you can use a T-45 Torx to remove the drain plug

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With the sensor removed you can now allow the final drive to drain.

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The Drain Plug is magnetic and extra work needs to be done to fully clean out the accumulated material. A Q-Tip would be handy for this.

Once the draining is complete, clean off the drain area and re-insert the drain plug carefully ensuring proper thread engagement, then tighten the drain plug to 20Nm with a T-45 and torque wrench.

RECYCLE NOTE: for proper disposal of waste fluid please refer to this link to find approved recycling centers in your area http://earth911.com/ - special thanks to Ted for providing the link.

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Filling the final drive. The final drive has a unique filling position so I use the following items – you can use what ever works.

[Semper_Fi]

You will need 180ml of Gear Oil – shown below is how I fill the rear drive – DO NOT go too fast, if you do it will leak out of the hole and you will get gear oil all over the brake and rear drive – it is a mess to clean up – it takes about 4 to 5 minutes to fill up the drive to spec – also rotate the disc back and forth a bit during the fill process.

- Please note as of the latest update to the BMW Repair Manual the specification for the rear drive fill was changed to 180ml as of 05/09.

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Lube the o-ring slightly with gear oil as that will facilitate re-insertion – do not pinch or cut the o-ring as you will develop a leak.

Push in firmly and evenly - you have to ensure proper seating and fit of the o-ring.

Once done tighten it with a T-25, the specification is 4Nm but i do it hand tight.

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SPECIAL NOTE - please ensure that the wire harness for the speed sensor is properly routed and clipped into the right locations. See highlight.

If not, due to its proximity to the disc there is high potential for chafing and damage.

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At this point the rear drive has had its fluid changed.

The only thing left to do is install the rear wheel and relocate the muffler back to it's orginal position.

Install the wheel and tighten the wheel bolts to 60Nm in a cross-star pattern (alternate opposite bolts.) Use care not to topple the bike off the centerstand.

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Re-align muffler and put back the muffler bolt in hand tight, as you need to double check some alignment points before final torquing

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Double check and confirm muffler clamp to muffler alignment mark are set correctly and hand tighten

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As muffler is held statically, check for tire to muffler spacing is even and about 10mm.

Adjust as necessary - once set then you can torque everything down.

Muffler Bolt = 19Nm
Muffler Clamp = 55Nm

Check for leaks

Fluid Change DIY COMPLETED

Go ride :dance