HEXHEAD Tech - R1200XX - Wheel Assembly R&R - All Years

[Semper_Fi]

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This DIY covers the removal and installation of the front and rear wheel assemblies

Specifics:
Bike shown is a 2008 R1200RT (other Hexheads will be similar, but not exactly the same.)
Heated seat option
No factory radio
Owner installed options of :
o Gerbing Permanent Heat Control
o Digital volt meter
o Modified accy socket (front) wiring harness
o Centech fuse panel and wiring for GPS


Overview process for the front wheel removal
Place bike on center stand - smooth and level
Remove brake calipers
Loosen fork pinch bolt
Loosen quick-release axle
Raise front of bike about one 1" (25mm)
Fully remove quick-release axle
Remove wheel assembly

Overview process for the rear wheel removal
Place bike on center stand - smooth and level
Loosen muffler clamp
Remove muffler support bolt
Swing muffler out of the way
Remove 5 wheel bolts
Remove wheel assembly

[Semper_Fi]

I used the following tools:

- Scissor jack to raise bike
- Small piece of wood to protect engine from jack
- T-25 Torx to remove fender bolts
- T-45 Torx to remove caliper bolts and loosen fork pinch bolt
- Front Axle Removal tool - from Marc PArnes - not affiliated - www.marcparnes.com
- 19mm Wrench

- Not Shown:
- 19mm socket 1/2 in drive
- 1/2 drive wrench
- Torque Wrench

[Semper_Fi]

Place bike on center stand on a flat and level surface.

[Semper_Fi]

Remove 2 T-25 Torx Bolts from the underside of the front fender

There are a total of four, 2 on each side

[Semper_Fi]

Once the four T-25 Torx are removed you can remove the front portion of the front fender.

Please note you have to pull apart SLIGHTLY from the back to clear the tab that is on the fender which mates to the rear portion of the rest of the fender.

[Semper_Fi]

Fender tab detail

[Semper_Fi]

Using a T-45 Torx - loosen - do not remove the fork pinch bolt on the clutch side fork tube.

There is no need to remove

[Semper_Fi]

Remove 4 caliper bolts (2 per) using a T-45 Torx

[Semper_Fi]

Remove the second bolt from the caliper

[Semper_Fi]

Removing the caliper.

You need to remove the calipers from the discs so as to be able to remove the wheel assemble.

As you pull the caliper off the mount you need to twist the caliper slightly so you are using the disc to push the pad back - this will allow the gap to be enlarged and you can then pull off the caliper.

Once done repeat on the other side.

Please note for those with ABS be aware of the ABS sensor wire is clipped to the fork leg - you can easily remove the caliper with no issue to the sensor wire - just be aware of it.

[Semper_Fi]

Rotating the caliper - tough to take a picture of the process but you can see from the angle how it was done

[Semper_Fi]

Once the calipers are off you can remove the quick release axle.

I use a Marc Parnes Tool - works well - there are others - I have no affiliation to Marc just use his product.

The first thing i do is break the quick release free with a 19 mm socket on a half in drive wrench, and then I use a regular ratcheting wrench to complete the removal

[Semper_Fi]

Breaking the axle bolt loose

[Semper_Fi]

After you have broken the axle bolt loose - raise the bike up so that the front wheel is up about an inch and a half or so - this will allow the wheel to drop once you remove the axle and clear the fender.

The image below shows the hardware removed and amount of lift on the jack to clear the fender

[Semper_Fi]

As you remove the axle bolt the tire assembly will tip to the throttle side, you need to remove the spacer, hold on to the wheel, and remove the axle bolt.

Once done the wheel will drop and you have removed the wheel assembly

[Semper_Fi]

RE-INSTALLING AND TORQUING THE WHEEL ASSEMBLY

The installation process is the reverse of the removal.


Install spacer on wheel (it is symetrical)
Hold wheel assembly in position and insert quick release axle
Hand tighten axle
Install Calipers and hand tighten bolts
Hand tighten pinch bolt.

*****PUMP UP BRAKES TO RESEAT PADS****

Torque Axle Nut to 50Nm
Torque Caliper Bolts to 30 Nm
Torque pinch Bolt to 19 Nm
Install front fender

[Semper_Fi]

The front wheel assembly is directional.

If your bike has ABS then the ABS ring will be located on the clutch side for installation

[Semper_Fi]

If your bike does not have ABS look for the direction arrow on the rim and mount accordingly

[Semper_Fi]

Install spacer

[Semper_Fi]

Place wheel assembly between the forks and insert the axle - catching the center of the wheel and the spacer.

Please Note that the axle threads into the clutch side fork leg

ENSURE you have proper thread engagement before you start tightening

[Semper_Fi]

Tighten axle, tighten calipers and tighten pinch bolts hand tight.

Once complete

PUMP YOUR BRAKES TO SEAT PADS

You do not want to rock the bike off the center stand and have no brakes.

At this point, you can remove the jack from under the engine, and allow the front wheel to touch down.

After the brakes have been pumped torque the following:

Axle Quick Release - 50Nm

Caliper Bolts - 30 Nm

Pinch Bolt - 19 Nm

After torquing the bolts install the front of the fender - I put the screws in snug (hand tight) as they are T-25's

Front wheel removal and install is done.

Now onto the rear!

[Semper_Fi]

REAR WHEEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Tools needed:

15 mm socket or wrench to loosen muffler clamp
T45 Torx for the muffler hanger bolt
T50 for the wheel bolts


Removal process in brief:

put bike on centerstand - flat and level surface
put the bike in gear

*****Make Sure the Muffler is cool to the touch for the following steps!!!*****


loosen the muffler clamp
remove muffler hanger bolt
swing muffler out of the way
remove 5 wheel bolts
remove rear wheel assembly


Shown below is the bike on centerstand in gear and looking at the muffler clamp bolt - loosen using a 15mm socket

[Semper_Fi]

Remove Muffler Hanger Bolt using a T45 Torx

[Semper_Fi]

Make sure the muffler is cool and rotate the muffler down and out of the way.

Grab the big end with with your right hand and with your left hand grab down by the loosened clamp and just walk the muffler out of the way by gently lifting on the big end and bringing your right hand down.

There is no need to remove the muffler, but you can do that also if you desire.

[Semper_Fi]

Ensure bike is in gear and remove the 5 wheel bolts with a T-50 torx

[Semper_Fi]

IMPORTANT NOTE!!!

The wheel bolts DO NOT get any form of lubricant applied - they go in dry, they come out dry.

[Semper_Fi]

Putting the wheel back on.

Mount the wheel on the rear hub, install the wheel bolts dry and then torque in a criss-cross pattern to 60 Nm

[Semper_Fi]

You next can return the muffler into it's normal position by reversing the process you used to move it out of the way. Gentle wiggling will make it rotate back up into the normal position.

Next install the muffler hanger bolt hand tight - please note that there is a psuedo captive nut on the muffler hanger itself that is able to move - please be aware of this when you go mount the bolt. Make sure the captive nut is centered as best you can in the mount on the bike.

With the muffler being temporarily supported properly, align the muffler clamp to its marks as shown in the photo below:

[Semper_Fi]

Fully insert Muffler into clamp and then torque to 55Nm using a 15 mm socket

[Semper_Fi]

Once muffler is torqued install and torque the muffler hunger bolt - T45 bolt to 19 Nm

[Semper_Fi]

IMPORTANT NOTE

Double check your wheel to muffler spacing you should have a minimum of 10mm.

If you do - then the job is complete, if not loosen the hanger and clamp to achieve proper spacing.

[deilenberger]

I'd like to once again thank Luis for taking the time to create an excellent DIY. He will be adding to the DIY library, and redoing some of the earlier ones more in this style as he gets time.

If you happen to run into him at a rally - buy him a beer! It's well deserved! :drink