Cylinder head threads stripped

[enjine]

yeah. one, maybe two of the threads are stripped in the head.

I'm getting a bit of oil out of the one corner that I know is stripped.
(and some from the oil fill plug despite its new rubber washer)

am I completely out of luck? is there a way to get the screws to bite?

[riderR1150GSAdv]

yeah. one, maybe two of the threads are stripped in the head.

I'm getting a bit of oil out of the one corner that I know is stripped.
(and some from the oil fill plug despite its new rubber washer)

am I completely out of luck? is there a way to get the screws to bite?

Timesert is your friend http://www.timesert.com/

[enjine]

whoah, that looks perfect. thanks for the link. i'm researching now.
hopefully i'll find some documentation for R1100 sizes. thanks!

[enjine]

installing the timer-sert looks like a relatively straightforward process.

however does anyone know what size set I will need for a '99 R1100R?

the guy on this post: http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?p=99295
used a M6 x 1.0 Time-Sert set, but he has an 04 1150. would i use the same or smaller size?

[mtboulder]

If you are talking about the 4 valve cover screws then M6 x 1.0 is the correct thread size for the R1100.

Be sure the mark your drill bit with tape to avoid going too deep. Be careful about making the drill hole too wide. Put some grease on the drill bit to help collect the small aluminum shavings so as to keep these out of the engine.

[enjine]

If you are talking about the 4 valve cover screws then M6 x 1.0 is the correct thread size for the R1100.

Be sure the mark your drill bit with tape to avoid going too deep. Be careful about making the drill hole too wide. Put some grease on the drill bit to help collect the small aluminum shavings so as to keep these out of the engine.


yup, that's what I'm talking about, thanks!
and those are great tips, I'll make sure to do all of that and maybe snap a few pics while I'm at it.

[jm1515]

TimeSerts rock! :dance

There's a kit you can buy that has everything you need except the drive handle...

http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

It's kit #16101.....9.4mm M6x1.0 in carbon steel. Kinda pricey and hard to find locally, but.....
I bought one + some xtra inserts to do both covers. No worries now.....

[swall]

There are many inserts out there and many pitfalls in using them if you haven't done this before. Helicoils have the advantage of requiring the smallest oversize hole. In many cases, you can run the helicoil tap into your stripped out hole. As you get into drilling bigger holes, you can run into big trouble if you do the drilling by hand. A drill press if preferable. Otherwise, you can end up with a crooked hole. Been there, done that. Minor job turns into major job.

[barryg]

Most of the theaded holes in the oilhead have very little material or 'meat' around the hole. Swall is on to it. The helicoil is probably the best fix in this application, due to the removal of the least amount of material. TimeSert application will cause the removal of quite abit of more material. If this fix is attempted and fails, the results can be catastrophic.

[enjine]

Most of the theaded holes in the oilhead have very little material or 'meat' around the hole.


you know, the more i read, the more i find this is a fact.
i'm going to helicoil first and if i mess that up, then i can time-sert.
thanks for all the info, i'll let you know how it goes.

can't even ride the bike right now because of the oil that pumps out of it.
i've got new gaskets and bolts on order. aside from one other big issue (post coming soon) i hope to have the R in the best shape its been in in ages in time for a promising riding season.

[PaulF]

I repaired a few of the threads for the valve covers using the Heli coils. The kit was about $ 95. cdn at an industrial supply co.

It was straight forward to do. I used tape on the drill to control the depth.

A drill with a built in level helps keep the hole straight.

Paul

96' R1100RS

[cb75076]

I have also used the helicoil kit to repair two threads where the valve cover bolts had stripped it out. I used a standard handheld power drill, marked with tape on the drill bit for depth, stuffed clean rags around any open areas of the valve assemblies, was generous with grease to hold and remove the cuttings, and proceeded very, very cautiously (the "measure twice, cut once" rule to keep the drill and then the tap level), and it all worked out fine. I was a little concerned about taking a drill to that beautiful engine, but I got over it. Some say that the helicoil repair is stronger than the original threads. It's been a few years since I did it, and the repaired area remains in great shape. You can do this successfully. Just take your time and be patient.

Jerry
NJ

[MEM0317]

I've had the same problem on my 1100. A helicoil was the proper fix. I'll probably end-up with h-coils replacing all the original threads before I run- out the motor. Stainless just bites better than aluminum too. good luck Matthew

[riderR1150GSAdv]

Timeserts are stronger, if you mess up helicoil you have no material left to use a timesert.....DAMHIK.....:bluduh

[MEM0317]

"You eat what you like & I'll what I like". - Yukon Cornelius

[enjine]

helicoil action was adventurous and successful.
i took some pics, might write up a report if all of the views are there.

[MEM0317]

I think they are durable enough to last the life of the bike if you are competent at your work. -Matthew

[riderR1150GSAdv]

Glad it worked out for you!