Leaky valve cover gasket

[keelerb]

1984 R100RT. Just had to replace a valve cover gasket when it tore despite best efforts during a cover removal.

I put in a new one, and it's leaking. No obvious cause - surfaces are undamaged, flat, and clean. Gasket is official BMW issue.

I guess I can order silicone ones but I'm wondering, is it the case that these gaskets leak for a while and then seal themselves (after they absorb enough oil, etc.)?

Thanks folks

[DennisDarrow]

Your theory, of letting it absorb a bit of oil, and giving a bit of time to "conform" to the mating surface MAY be right. Just a drop or two? Or is it a solid steady drip?
Did you clean the surface there on the bottom side of the head where it mates with the cover? Of course you did. Often times this bit of fluid will promote a bit more leakage. If it was me, I would remove it, clean it good, and reseat it............

Not to steal the thread but wondering what is BEST to use to get off a gasket that the PO stuck on with "gasket seal" and wont come off................Another thread..........

Good Luck Bud..........Dennis

[62373]

A new gasket should not leak at all. They do not absorb oil. If you want to try silicone pm me at hawksledge@yahoo.com. I have a set of valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket.

Jerry

1984 R100RT. Just had to replace a valve cover gasket when it tore despite best efforts during a cover removal.

I put in a new one, and it's leaking. No obvious cause - surfaces are undamaged, flat, and clean. Gasket is official BMW issue.

I guess I can order silicone ones but I'm wondering, is it the case that these gaskets leak for a while and then seal themselves (after they absorb enough oil, etc.)?

Thanks folks

[keelerb]

Thanks. I already ordered a set of the silicone ones as I need some for my Norton anyway. I was just hoping that the ones I bought from BMW could be made to work.

Right now it will leave a half-dollar sized puddle, maybe not quite that much, overnight.

BMWs should not leak oil - that's what Nortons are for.

[airhead78]

Just in case... make sure you install them with the correct side facing the head. Off my own head I do not rmember which one it is, but there is a right and wrong side of the gasket to face the head. They are not the same..

[Bob_M]

Cinch it down tighter. the correct torque setting for the center bolt is to tighten until until the threads tear, then back it out 1/4 :whistle

[swall]

It is possible that the threads on the center stud are stripped and on the verge of failing. If so, when you tightened the center nut, it may have put hardly any load on the gasketed joint and that may be why it leaked.

[keelerb]

Center nut is on barely more than finger tight, but the two side nuts are on there good, so I think there's sufficient compression.

I ordered a pair of the gaskets from Max BMW (who are pretty good at parts in my experience). I got two identical gaskets - i.e., not "handed." To install both, one would have the printed side inwards towards the head and one would have it outwards toward the valve cover.

The old ones, which I believe were OEM, seemed to me like they'd absorbed oil along the way and become a bit more compact, "slick"-sided, and perhaps better able to conform to the mating surfaces.

Anyway, I'll run it like this at least until the silicone gaskets come and maybe I won't even need them.

62373, I apologize, my original post refers to ordering the silicone gaskets as though I hadn't already done so. I should have said "I guess I can INSTALL silicone gaskets" instead of "ordering" them. I thank you for your offer.

[squiffynimrod]

Just in case... make sure you install them with the correct side facing the head. Off my own head I do not rmember which one it is, but there is a right and wrong side of the gasket to face the head. They are not the same..

One side has an adhesive that goes towards the head, the non adhesive side goes towards the valve cover. Or buy silicone ones and it won't matter. I'm having to replace mine as during setting valves I found some water in the r side cover. The gasket had a wee unadhered part, on the top center right about 3/4" long. Just enough to let water in after a wash.

[keelerb]

In case anyone else is in a similar boat, I'm told another solution is simply to double-up the gaskets - use two instead of one. No idea how/why this would work, but apparently it does. I may give it a shot just as an experiment.

Getting those little 10mm nuts back on the valve cover used to be very difficult. I now am pretty good and quick at it. I guess the experience has at least done that for me.

Thanks folks - BrianK

[lkchris]

The side with the adhesive is the side with the printing and it can be mounted against the head on either side and should be.

[Rollifahrer]

I had a similar problem. I ended up wacking the cover ever so gently with a rubber mallet to "encourage it to conform", then retightened all 3 nuts. Not sophisticated, but it worked. I doubt it was the gasket's fault, I think maybe the valve cover was not true, and the new gasket wasn't pliable enough to conform without help. I used some gasket sealer on the head side, but didn't want a sticky mess every time I set the valves.

[fracture]

I gave up on the factory valve cover gaskets some time ago. I know some have had good luck with them, but not me. Even used some Hylomar but still had drips. And there was a bit of a gooey mess.

I went with the silicone gaskets from Real Gaskets. No leaks and reusable. When I replaced the oil pan gasket I used the silicone gasket there as well.

[keelerb]

I did the oil pan gasket just a month or so ago with an OEM gasket and that's been fine - you definitely DO need to retorque in sequence after a few hundred miles.

I tried Yamabond, doubling up the gaskets, and both of the above - leakage was reduced but not completely eliminated. Just installed the silicone gaskets - seems to have cured the problem, based on a quick run and cool. I will report back if it does NOT cure the problem.

Thanks as always folks! - BrianK