Tourque wrench

[vizslaowner]

Is there anyone who can tell me about tourque wrench's? I mean, I know what they are and how they're used. I guess my specific question is ....is there a special one that would be best for using on my RT, short handled,long handled, ect. I've always taken my ride to the shop for repairs,but, its time I did my own work, to an extent.
I know almost everyone here does at least some of their own work and I'm sure at some point has said,gee I wish I would have gotten this tool instead of the one I bought. This is the kind of info I'm looking for.Almost everything on the CDROM repair manual has tourque specs. Does everyone tourque evrything all the time like that? Please point me in the right direction and THANKS in advance.:bikes :bikes

[LoneRanger]

Here you go.....

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44443

[marchyman]

First rule: one isn't enough. But if you're going to start with just one pick one with a range that will cover most of the work you want to do. Keep in mind that most torque wrenches are accurate from 20% of the full scale reading to full scale, e.g. a 100 Nm torque wrench is accurate from 20 Nm to 100 Nm (which is why you need a second wrench for the small stuff and possibly even a third if you're going to do any heavy stuff).

Look at the torque tables for your bike. Figure out what you are likely to touch when doing normal service work, then look for a mid price torque wrench that will cover most of what you need. My guess is you want to start with something that will go up to about 75 Nm for most normal maintenance. That will probably be a 3/8" drive clicker in the $60-$80 range.

// marc

[GlobalRider]

Is there anyone who can tell me about torque wrenches?

Yes, buy quality, buy once. Look after it, use it properly and it will last you a lifetime.

Something that is used for measuring is useless unless it is both accurate and precise...and that also means...over time.

Get the basic mechanical clicker type in the 5 to 75 lbf.ft. range, usually in a 3/8" square drive, like the Snap-On QD2FR75 (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=55258&group_ID=954&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog).

I have that exact unit that is now 34 years old that is "in spec" over its full range...including the bottom 20% of the range. I've calibrated it a few times and it has never needed adjustment.

There is one in Nm, but its 20 - 100 Nm range isn't as wide. Besides, its easy to covert from Nm to lbf.ft. I can send you a few Excel spreadsheets with the conversions.

Later, you might want a 1/4" square drive 40 to 200 lbf.in. clicker type for the smaller fasteners, like the Snap-On QD1R200 (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=55256&group_ID=953&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog).

And lastly, a 1/2" square drive that'll take you to 250 lbf.ft.

I got away with the first one for about 20 years and then added the 1/4" and then 1/2" torque wrenches.

[AZ-J]

Buy this one (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/tools/hand+tools/ratchets+%26+wrenches/ultimate+digital+torque+wrench%2C+1-2%22+drive.do)!

It is great, and includes Lifetime Calibrations.

[GlobalRider]

Buy this one (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/tools/hand+tools/ratchets+%26+wrenches/ultimate+digital+torque+wrench%2C+1-2%22+drive.do)!

Its electronic! Will it work in 10 or 20 years? :whistle My Snap-On dealer offered me what I paid for one of my wrenches a few months after I bought that 1/4" clicker towards a new "electronic" one. The difference was a mere $50. I said "no thanks".

It is great, and includes Lifetime Calibrations.

Correction! It includes free "Lifetime Testing Service". That only means they'll tell you whether it meets spec or not. I'm sure calibration is at additional cost because it is time consuming. Give them a call and ask.

[AZ-J]

Its electronic! Will it work in 10 or 20 years? :whistle My Snap-On dealer offered me what I paid for one of my wrenches a few months after I bought that 1/4" clicker towards a new "electronic" one. The difference was a mere $50. I said "no thanks".

Correction! It includes free "Lifetime Testing Service". That only means they'll tell you whether it meets spec or not. I'm sure calibration is at additional cost because it is time consuming. Give them a call and ask.

1. a small battery makes it work, and easily replaceable.
2. I called them already and calibration is included if it tests "off"

Any other questions?

[GlobalRider]

1. a small battery makes it work, and easily replaceable.
2. I called them already and calibration is included if it tests "off"

Any other questions?

Yep, there is more to electronics than just replacing a battery. I wonder how long the strain gauge (if that is what they use) will work/last. I don't mind spending big coin on tools (my three wrenches ran about a grand), but I expect them to last.

At what intervals do they do the calibrations? Low, mid and high end? In other words, 3 points? Or do they go every 5 lbf.ft.? I also take 5 readings at each point to check its precision and talk about a tight standard deviation. Repeatability is just as important.

Nice looking wrench but I have this thing for the KISS principle.

[AZ-J]

You do your thing, I'll do mine. I have a calibration report from when it was new about 6-9 months ago but I see no reason to reproduce it here. The tool runs on 2 AA batteries, and for the rest, I suggest you read the description on Griot's website.

Excellent customer service, too. And the unit works very well, on to 200 nm or change it to ft-lbs, and hit the down arrow. It scrolls down fast or s-l-o-w, in 0.1 increments, and can scroll up if you overshoot.

[Rich]

I'm not a fan of the electronic versions either, but to each their own. For something I may use once a year I don't want to be searching for batteries.

I bought three Craftsman torque wrenches a few years ago, to cover a wide range of settings. They include both scales so they are easy to use on our bikes or your favorite American car or truck. They seem to work fine, and I would purchase them again. I know they aren't Snap-Ons, but you don't pay Snap-On price for them either. (Ouch)

Another rule: If you get the standard clicker type, when you are done using it make sure you back off on the wrench setting to take the pressure off. It's in the directions, which you should read especially if you are not familiar with torque wrenches and their use.

EDIT: I just opened my Sunday flyer and Sears has their tool sale going on right now. The $80 Craftsman Microtork torque wrenches are $10 off. It doesn't show up on their web site until you go to checkout, and then the $10 off is applied.

[BMWRich58]

I'm not a fan of the electronic versions either, but to each their own. For something I may use once a year I don't want to be searching for batteries.

I bought three Craftsman torque wrenches a few years ago, to cover a wide range of settings. They include both scales so they are easy to use on our bikes or your favorite American car or truck. They seem to work fine, and I would purchase them again. I know they aren't Snap-Ons, but you don't pay Snap-On price for them either. (Ouch)

Another rule: If you get the standard clicker type, when you are done using it make sure you back off on the wrench setting to take the pressure off. It's in the directions, which you should read especially if you are not familiar with torque wrenches and their use.

EDIT: I just opened my Sunday flyer and Sears has their tool sale going on right now. The $80 Craftsman Microtork torque wrenches are $10 off. It doesn't show up on their web site until you go to checkout, and then the $10 off is applied.


If your a Craftsmen Club member,all three of the torque wrenches are on sale at $59.99 each until March 8,2009.

5 years ago,I compared my Craftsmen Torque wrenches to my SnapOn's.
Maybe a 32nd of a turn difference on one setting if I recall,and that was with the 3/8th's drive. For what we use the torque wrench for on our bikes the Craftsmen will work fine. But to each his own....

Most definately unscrew the torque wrench when done and stored and don't drop or bang the wrench.
Also,the fastner and it's mating area, must clean and dry unless specified that a lube is to be used.

[GlobalRider]

5 years ago, I compared my Craftsmen Torque wrenches to my SnapOn's.

Maybe a 32nd of a turn difference on one setting if I recall,and that was with the 3/8th's drive.

Brand isn't of importance, as long as it is accurate and precise, although you do get what you pay for...normally.

What is important is having a calibration table supplied with the wrench. If I set mine to 50 lbf.ft., I am actually applying 51.73 lbf.ft., so if I wanted 50, I'd set it to 48. And in the end 2 lbf.ft. isn't worth talking about. BTW, standard deviation is less than 0.15 lbf.ft. at that setting...repeatable...huhhh.


Most definately unscrew the torque wrench when done and stored and don't drop or bang the wrench.

Also...
- don't store it in an area of high humidity. Try to store it in as dry a location as possible.
- don't use it as a breaker bar to loosen or tighten fasteners. It should never have any excess torque applied after the click.

[maxscycle]

Here you go.....

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44443


Don't forget most clicker type wrenches need calibrating every so often
max

[MrGrocer]

I have a simple craftsman torque wrench. You really don't probably need several, just a quickie chart that shows you haow various extensions and doo-dads affect the reading.

[PGlaves]

I agree with most of what has been posted here - and won't delve into the electonic vs non, area of the thread.

I have several torque wrenches acquired over the years. None of mine is adequate by itself. If I could have only one and could find one that had a range from 10 ft.lb. to 100 ft.lb. in a 3/8" drive I would consider it just about perfect.

I have a 3/8" drive clicker that goes from 10 to 75 ft.lb. Almost good enough but wheel bolts are off the scale a little bit. I have a 1/2" drive that goes from 20 to 150 ft.lb. which is good for wheel bolts and a few other items. I have a smaller 3/8" drive that goes down to a few inch pounds and up to about 40 ft.lb. and it is handy for small stuff.

I also have a 3/8" and a 1/2" beam type.

I got the beam types years ago and they work well for many applications - but are a pain on some. Oil pan bolts on the bottom of Airhead engines comes to mind. I could never get my head where I could easily read the scale - that's when I got the small clicker.

While on the topic - various aftermarket manuals have errors in the torque values provided. Get a good general table of torque values for various sized fasteners. And when you see a torque value that seems odd for that size - stop and think about it. Check it out. It may be wrong. Or not. For example - driveshaft bolts on Airheads are a special application - small bolts, 12 sided heads, hardened flange, tighter than their size would normally require. Just an example - but don't take every value you read in Haynes or Clymer as the gospel without thinking about it.

And remember - in controlled testing many folks can get repeatable results plus or minus 30 percent by "feel", and repeatable results plus or minus 25% with a torque wrench. The specified values take the 25% into account for most applications - nuclear reactor and aircraft assembly excepted. :)

[AZ-J]

Paul, can you say how good/bad the torque values are in the BMW RepROM materials?

[GlobalRider]

Paul, can you say how good/bad the torque values are in the BMW RepROM materials?

I put one together on a spreasheet using the BMW Owner's Manual (a few common torque values), the Haynes, the Clymer and the Chilton manuals for my R100 GS.

Some were way off, but looking at the fastener, you could tell which one was in error.

[GlobalRider]

Don't forget most clicker type wrenches need calibrating every so often
max

Not just clicker types...anything that makes a measurement needs to be recalibrated and that would include a strain gauge digital torque wrench.

[PGlaves]

Paul, can you say how good/bad the torque values are in the BMW RepROM materials?

I have only found one clear error in a factory manual (paper or CD) over the years. It was a swingarm pivot pin value on an Oilhead if I recall correctly.

But - translation from ft.lb. to nm. or the reverse can mess up manual writers - so be aware of normal values for typical fastener sizes. This doesn't help with oddball stuff like the Paralever pivots for sure, though.

By the way - overtorquing the flat headed fixed pivot will shear the head off so clean it looks like it was cut with a tool.

[henzilla]

By the way - overtorquing the flat headed fixed pivot will shear the head off so clean it looks like it was cut with a tool.


I worry about those for sure...even removing after heating makes me cringe until they start moving!

[Andy VH]

Like others have said, on any of the "clicker" style or electronic torque wrenches, back them off to relax the spring in the clicker device in the wrench.

NEVER use a torque wrench as a breaker bar.

Once the torque wrench "clicks" there is NO gain in making it click again or for giving it "that extra nudge".

Know the difference between "dry applied torque" and "lubed or wet applied torque". Generally, any type of lube, oil, grease, anti-sieze, probably even Lok-Tite (if too much is used) will reduce the effort applied to make the wrench "click", but the result will be that for the same setting, a "wetted" torqued assembly will be at higher applied torque than a "dry" torqued assembly. If you use lube on the threaded connection, decrease the torque setting by at least 5%.

Always torque the assembly for the weakest material in the connection. Meaning, a 10mm steel bolt threaded into steel threads takes higher torque than the same steel bolt threaded into aluminum threads, or brass threads. Reduce the torque setting, by as much as 40% to avoid stripping out the threads in the weaker material.

[GlobalRider]

Once the torque wrench "clicks" there is NO gain in making it click again or for giving it "that extra nudge".

Thats because you have to overcome the "static" friction to get the fastener moving again...exactly why it takes more force to initially move a crate than it takes to keep it moving.

I'll go in two or three evenly spaced torque stages on things like wheels...where multiple fasteners hold down something like a cylinder head, etc.