Poorly aimed headlamp?

[Grover]

Hello all...I have a 2008 R1200RT. Love the bike and it's not my first RT either. However, I have been getting that feeling people think I have my high beams on. Why? Well, they flash their high beams at me even when they are off. Now, I know about that little adjusting toggle that raises or lowers the beam when you are carrying a large load. That has not stopped the problem flashes. Am I still too heavy in the back when I'm loaded up? Do I need to adjust the rear suspension tighter, or all of the above? Has anyone else experienced this?

[Professor]

I've noticed on my '07RT that on low beam I see well down the road and occasionally get flashes from oncoming drivers. When I turn on the high beam, I don't see the road any better, but I light way up into the trees.

When I took it in for the 6,000 mile service, I asked them to check it out. There was no change after the service so they either did not check it or they checked it and it was within their guidelines.

I've never ridden a bike (or driven a car) with lights set so high. On previous bikes, I've ridden with high beams on during the day as recommended by many, but not on the RT. The beams are too high.

[rmeisen]

Here's what I found out.. There are two adjustments on the RT, one on the bottom right (looking over the Speedo/Tach, and one on the top left. The one on the bottom right will change the beam left / right and the one on the top left does the up/down. I had the same problems you describe, but a few trys with a 12 MM socket and mine settled right down.. On the upper left one, there is a lever that will adjust for two up riding. It lowers the beam to compensate for the rear settling lower.. The owners manual describes it so be sure (if you intend to use it) that it is positioned properly while you adjust..

Ron

[dumfounded]

Definitely try the lever first. I flipped it and don't get any more complaints from oncoming drivers, one-up or two-up.

[leadfoot]

I did the same on my 08 RT. I got a lot of hi beams at me, had the dealer check it at 600 miles, and they said it was fine. I figure the brightness of the lights coupled with the hi stance of the bike might make it worse for oncoming traffic than the lower rides. I flipped the left toggle, and also set the ESA to two up, since I usually carry extra gear in the bags. I weigh 210, and that might be more than the calculated solo weight for the bike. I have had no issues since doing those two things.

[PGlaves]

Unless something has drastically changed the flip lever is only part of the equation. The adjusting knob is the other part.

Put the lever so it is sticking out in the horizontal position. (Not up).

Place the bike on its wheels, rider astride. Measure the vertical distance from the ground to the center of the lens.

Place a mark on a flat wall with level paving adjacent to the wall. The mark should be 2 inches lower than the measured vertical distance to the center of the lens.

Position the motorcycle so the headlight lens is 17 feet from the wall. Adjust the knob so the flat top of the LOW BEAM cutoff is at your mark on the wall with the bike on its wheels, rider astride.

The headlight will then be aimed correctly for the bike and one-up rider.

If you add a passenger and heavy load - flip the lever to the "up" position and you will still be right, or close - depending on suspension settings of course. If you ride most or all the time two up, then do the 2" down at 17 feet low beam adjustment with the passenger on board too, but with the lever in the up position. Then if you go solo you can flip the lever to horizontal and will be close.

My marks are on the wall permanently, and there is a mark on the floor 17' from the wall. I can check the aim with any load condition - and do so fairly often.

[leadfoot]

Thanks Paul! Glad to hear a methodical way of setting this instead of just moving things untill the oncoming traffic stops flashing at me.

[r11rs94]

My marks are on the wall permanently, and there is a mark on the floor 17' from the wall. I can check the aim with any load condition - and do so fairly often.

Paul, does this work with all models or just the R-1200-RT? Thanks in advance..

[PGlaves]

Paul, does this work with all models or just the R-1200-RT? Thanks in advance..

The 2" drop at 17 feet is pure trigonometry to cause a downward angular deflection of the top of the low beam. It works on all DOT approved headlight assemblies.

The flip lever and knob has been on almost every BMW with a fairing enclosed headlight that I can remember. Some - like my R1150R and K75T have a headlight that simply pivots on the two mounting bolts on the ears mounted to the fork, as on the unfaired Airheads.

Most of the flip levers that I've seen on BMWs have been designed to stick back horizontally for one up and to allow them to be flipped up vertical for two-up or loaded conditions. But I have a vague recollection of one that stuck down for one up and out for two-up. How to use the flip lever is in the Rider's manual for each model that I've seen that had one.

Some day I'll post how to adjust the headlight and lock it into place with a shop rag and velcro strap during an 11 day long-distance rally of some repute. :)

[Greenwald]

Unless something has drastically changed the flip lever is only part of the equation. The adjusting knob is the other part.

Put the lever so it is sticking out in the horizontal position. (Not up).

Place the bike on its wheels, rider astride. Measure the vertical distance from the ground to the center of the lens.

Place a mark on a flat wall with level paving adjacent to the wall. The mark should be 2 inches lower than the measured vertical distance to the center of the lens.

Position the motorcycle so the headlight lens is 17 feet from the wall. Adjust the knob so the flat top of the LOW BEAM cutoff is at your mark on the wall with the bike on its wheels, rider astride.

The headlight will then be aimed correctly for the bike and one-up rider.

If you add a passenger and heavy load - flip the lever to the "up" position and you will still be right, or close - depending on suspension settings of course. If you ride most or all the time two up, then do the 2" down at 17 feet low beam adjustment with the passenger on board too, but with the lever in the up position. Then if you go solo you can flip the lever to horizontal and will be close.

My marks are on the wall permanently, and there is a mark on the floor 17' from the wall. I can check the aim with any load condition - and do so fairly often.

WHERE on a 2005 R1200RT is the 'adjusting knowb?'

I know of the 'flip lever,' conviniently located in an almost impossible to reach location deep in the forward fairing.

Is the 'knob' you refer to the bolt within the flip-lever that can be turned with a socket wrench?

[marchyman]

Don't know about the RT, but on the GS it is a ridged knob surrounded by the flip lever.

http://www.snafu.org/pics/r1200gs/headlight/p-20090122-1517-4933.jpg

The knob and flip lever are to the bottom left of the headlamp. There is another knob at the upper right which is used for adjusting the horizontal aim of the headlight. I can andjust both with my fingers (the GS has more space) but I do notice that it is made so you can use a hex wrench, too.

// marc

[lensuz]

Check this link of the rear side of the 12RT headlight assembly.

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=35467&Number=381871#Post381871

[GregoryT]

Believe it or not, in the last 11 brand new motorcycles I purchased in recent time (9 of them, BMWs) not even one of them had a properly aligned headlight. Paul's rule, 2 inches and 17 feet probably works fine because it creates proper angle of light beam versus the horizontal line of the road. In reality, what really counts is the length of the lightbeam, providing proper vision without glare to upcoming traffic. The rule of thumb is very simple (even though sometimes takes some time to correct it) lowbeam headlight, should light the road ahead of your vehicle in the distance of 50-60 yards and 100-120 yards for highbeam regardless of the load of the motorcycle, since this is such a simple procedure, I wonder why dealers who charge quite a bit of money for PDI, didn't figure this out yet.

[PGlaves]

Believe it or not, in the last 11 brand new motorcycles I purchased in recent time (9 of them, BMWs) not even one of them had a properly aligned headlight. Paul's rule, 2 inches and 17 feet probably works fine because it creates proper angle of light beam versus the horizontal line of the road. In reality, what really counts is the length of the lightbeam, providing proper vision without glare to upcoming traffic. The rule of thumb is very simple (even though sometimes takes some time to correct it) lowbeam headlight, should light the road ahead of your vehicle in the distance of 50-60 yards and 100-120 yards for highbeam regardless of the load of the motorcycle, since this is such a simple procedure, I wonder why dealers who charge quite a bit of money for PDI, didn't figure this out yet.

The 2" drop at 17' used to be published in all of the BMW Rider's (Owner's) manuals. I don't recall when they stopped putting that in there - probably when the cost of paper and ink became more important than rider safety. Or when they had to put in all the stuff like "warning - the exhaust pipes get hot" so didn't have room any more.

The 2" at 17' describes in simple inch and feet measurements the requirements set by the DOT, by the way.

[Grover]

Thanks for all the useful information you guys handed out. It has helped. I'm glad everyone got to add their expertise. This forum has a combined experience of 1000 BMW mechanics.