Fuses

[Langzaiguy]

Doing a quick search on here, it seems like I have a fuse out--My instruments and tail light do not work (my brake does). I read that the fuses are located in the headlight assembly. I opened up my headlight but I can't seem to find any fuses.

There's a circuit board that screws into the back of the headlight. The screws are kind of inaccessible because of the steering column. Do I need to take these screws out?

Thanks for any suggestions!

[26667]

On my '78 the fuses are, in fact, in the headlight. If yours is the same, open it from the front. That is, remove the lense and retainer ring etc, and you should find the fuse panel inside, at the back ( toward the handle bars) of the shell/housing.

good luck

[PGlaves]

On my '78 the fuses are, in fact, in the headlight. If yours is the same, open it from the front. That is, remove the lense and retainer ring etc, and you should find the fuse panel inside, at the back ( toward the handle bars) of the shell/housing.

good luck

If you've not seen them before you might not even recognize them as fuses. They are the pointed-end type used on old VWs, usually white ceramic with a single copper strip which may or may not be visible depending on the rotation of the fuse. They are held in place with a copper spring strip at each end.

[James.A]

Theyr'e in there, you may have to root around in the snarl of wires to find them.

[Langzaiguy]

Oh ok, that's what I was figuring. I had a white fust that just seemed like a piece of plastic or so. I guess it was missing the copper wiring. Where do I buy these fuses?

[James.A]

NAPA, or any auto parts store should have some.

[crazydrummerdude]

Oh ok, that's what I was figuring. I had a white fust that just seemed like a piece of plastic or so. I guess it was missing the copper wiring. Where do I buy these fuses?

Yep, a little white plastic piece with a thin wire. If the wire's "missing," the fuse is bad.

[orbitangel]

On my '78 the fuses are, in fact, in the headlight. If yours is the same, open it from the front. That is, remove the lense and retainer ring etc, and you should find the fuse panel inside, at the back ( toward the handle bars) of the shell/housing.

good luck

I had enough of this fuse nonsense on my '77RS. This is a Royal PITA if it happens out on the road, at night - where, in fact, it usually WILL happen.

Here's what I did:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/orbitangel/P1010053.jpg

If you look above the key you will see two miniature Klixon (trade name) aviation push-to-reset circuit breakers. They just BARELY fit into the dash panel on an RS (in that location) and if one pops (hasn't happened yet) you simply push it back in. They are what are known as "trip-free" breakers which means that they cannot be reset into a short circuit.

On a /6 or /7 (without a fairing) it would be easy to drill two small holes in an inconspicuous location on the bottom or side of the headlight bucket (use a Unibit for a nice, clean, ROUND hole - and install two circuit breakers.

I could have (maybe SHOULD have) used two 7 1/2 Amp breakers vs the 10 Amp ones I did use but I wanted a little extra margin there and they WILL trip if a short circuit occurs.
NO MORE FUSE BLUES! :rocker

The only downside is this: 1. A little extra wiring. 2. The breakers (unless you buy 'em surplus) can run $30 - $40 each. If anybody is interested, I'll provide a photo of the part and where to get them cheap.

Orbitangel

[crazydrummerdude]

If anybody is interested, I'll provide a photo of the part and where to get them cheap.

:ear

[barryg]

I've got a muv a fuse kit to add to my R90. Kit made by the old Luftmeister co. Complete assembly to move both fuses to the handle bar upper triple tree area with an metal angle bracket to mount it. Other venders may have made a similar product. Recycle up in Ohio or Matt over at Boxerworks may have some for sell. Pain in the ass to have to open headlight bucket at night, even more so If U run a Luftmeister/Windjammer fairing.

[airoilheadbeemerguy]

Had the same on my '83 R80RT, it turned out to be the ignition switch was worn loose from years of use. Hit a bump which wiggled the key and presto, had instrument and tail lights again.

[r11rs94]

I've got a muv a fuse kit to add to my R90. Kit made by the old Luftmeister co. Complete assembly to move both fuses to the handle bar upper triple tree area with an metal angle bracket to mount it. Other venders may have made a similar product. Recycle up in Ohio or Matt over at Boxerworks may have some for sell. Pain in the ass to have to open headlight bucket at night, even more so If U run a Luftmeister/Windjammer fairing.

:nod yes it was.

[barryg]

:nod yes it was.

Back when I ran a Windjammmer, I got very good at removing one of the rearview mirrors to look inside the bucket. Glad those days are long over. Got to looking at the muvafuse kit and the included metal angle bracket. It has 3 holes to mount it. I've been working on my BMW windshield mount so I have that whole upper triple tree assemble in the living room. It has the instrument cluster mount attached for a /6. That mount has three slots in it. They match up perfectly with the muvafuse bracket. So that is where this kit mounts. Mystery solved. I also plan on running the 4-way flasher kit, Hope everything will fit.

[moose738]

If anybody is interested, I'll provide a photo of the part and where to get them cheap.

Orbitangel[/QUOTE]

I like it...where did you source the circuit breakers? Thanx, John:whistle

[orbitangel]

If anybody is interested, I'll provide a photo of the part and where to get them cheap.
Orbitangel

I like it...where did you source the circuit breakers? Thanx, John:whistle

Hey, John.

B&B Aircraft Supplies - This is a mom and pop shop with a whole warehouse full of new aircraft parts. Super nice people and great prices.
Check here before you go elsewhere. No website, so you need to call or fax your order. Phone - 913-884-5930. Fax 913-884-6533. Dan Brown, proprietor.



http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/orbitangel/P1010008.jpg

In the picture above, you can see the part number: 7727-2-3 (dash 3 indicates 3 Amp breaker.) Relative size is shown by 9 volt battery.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/orbitangel/P1010009.jpg

Here is how it looks when tripped. You can also pull it out manually.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/orbitangel/P1010013.jpg

This (out of focus) photo shows what the "business end" looks like. I think I paid about five bucks each for this type of fuse.

You will probably want 7 1/2 Amp breakers for the Airhead lights. I used 10 Amp breakers to provide a little extra margin - probably not needed.

The "fuse holder clips" on the circuit board inside the headlight are (as I'm sure you know) are shaped a little like a slightly cupped hand. I used a pair of duckbill pliers to flatten them out. Then, you can slip on a spade terminal.

I used an appropriate length of 16 or 18 Ga. wire, thru a grommet in the headlight bucket. Crimp a high quality (such as AMP PIDG) spade lug terminal on one end and the correctly sized ring terminal on the circuit breaker end. Mount the 2 breakers in a convenient location, install 4 wires. Done!

No more screwing with fuses inside the headlight bucket (or anywhere else!)

John, I see you're running a '78 R100/7. Are you running a fairing? If yes, you could find a nice, accessible, DRY spot in the fairing. If no, you could (if you're CAREFUL) mount them thru the headlight bucket. Just plan it carefully first! Also, "Unibit" tm drill bits make nice, clean, ROUND holes in thin sheetmetal. Conventional twin-fluted drill bits tear a nasty, jagged hole in thin metal, then accelerate on through as they dig-in, destroying anything in their path. IF you're going to drill that headlight bucket and DON'T have a Unibit - STOP! Go get one.
You'll be very glad you did! A SMALL fluted drill bit (say, a no. 40) is fine for a pilot hole. Then use the Unibit. If you already know all this I apologize for "preaching" at ya'.

orbitangel

Good luck! Me? I will NEVER miss those two little bastard fuses!

[barryg]

Orbitangel's fuse upgrade looks like the way to go. I did a little more research on the old Luftmeister Muvafuse. If U run across one in the original package the part # is on the back of the pack. 20015. This kit has the bracket already attached to mount the kit to the bike or can be removed so the kit can be attached to a fairing panel; drilling the round hole method. I ran across an old '87 San Jose catalog and they had them for sell, too. This kit is also pretty neat because it comes with a complete wiring harness and instruction sheet to install it.