HELP!! Ignition Removal

[ltljohn]

Working on the wife's 97 F650ST. The ignition is stuck won't turn, I tried the WD40 etc no luck. I am trying to remove it. I have all of the screws/bolts out of the ignition assembly, the electrical section has been removed but I can not figure out how to remove the rest of it. It appears to have some sort of pin on the left side of the housing but I can not figure out how to remove it. The whole assembly is loose and pivots a little bit on the pin. Clymer manual is no help

[AKBeemer]

Sorry I can offer you no specific advice, but if you have not already done so, I suggest you post over on the f650.com (Chain Gang) site. You should also search the tech area; it is full of great mechanical info. f650.com is one of the most comprehensive model specific sites out there. Good luck.

Found this at the Chain Gang:

The cost of a new lock is about US$70. If you want it factory-keyed to match the rear lock, you'll probably have to wait for 3-4 weeks.

Factory Manual via Colorado Bob
• I got a look at the F650 factory manual today and you wouldn't believe what it takes to get that switch out !
• Remove front and side fairings, windshield, headlight fairing,
• REMOVE HANDLEBAR AND UPPER FORK BRIDGE,
• DRILL OUT AND SHEAR OFF A SCREW THAT IS IN THERE (A NEW ONE COMES WITH THE NEW LOCK),
• and then recheck the backlash on the steering bearing when putting it all back together.
• No wonder I couldn't figure out how to get it out while I was sitting on the side of the road.
• Dealer says he MIGHT be able to get the old one out in a few days.

From Flash 412 (CO)
• Remove windshield - 4 screws
• Remove side covers - 5 screws each
• Remove fairing - 4 screws to tank on each side, 2 screws to bracket, unplug lights, set aside.
• Using a Philips screwdriver, remove switch from bottom of lock.
• Take a piece of hacksaw blade in a pair of vise grips and a saw a slot in the shear screw.
• Remove shear screw with flat screwdriver (if it hasn't fallen out already).
• Remove other lock screw with Allen wrench.
• Fix lock.
• Reassemble in reverse order. (Use two ALLEN bolts and LocTite to secure lock and switch.)
• Whole thing should take about 45 minutes or an hour, plus time to clear the lock.
• Or... just pay the dealer $300.

Prevention:
I would add a dose of Tri-Flow. I've seen this stuff forever and never used it. While on my trip to BC this summer, my Triumph IGNITION switch became very sticky after several days of rain to the point I was worried it would fail while on the road. (Same switch & red thingy as the Fs) I stopped in at a locksmith thinking a dose of graphite lock lube might fix it. Locksmith sold me a small bottle of Tri-Flow, which he said is all he uses. It worked great. Two drops and switch was back to normal and has stayed that way since. (3 Months).
• WD will CLEAN the lock, but it won't PROTECT it from corrosion. Tri-Flow will, as well as lubricate it.
• Others have put a little Plastic Cap over the lock mechanism to try and protect it.
• The cost of a new lock is about US$70. If you want it factory-keyed to match the rear lock, you'll probably have to wait for 3-4 weeks.
• Flash#412 found that the red cap from a WD-40 can fits the lock housing perfectly. Todd#389 tried 3 cans and still can't find a big enough can of WD-40...

[ltljohn]

AKBeemer,
Thanks for the tip, I found exactly what I need.