Tire changing help

[subagon]

I'm in the middle of changing my tires by hand. No fancy tire changer, I what to know that I can do this on the side of the road.

I should add that I have no instructions for this, but I'm mechanically inclined, so no fear...

Bike info: 1975 R90/6, New tires = Avon Road Riders.

I statred with the front tire and got the old tire off. That was a b*tch, but I got it off :bluduh.

I put on fresh rim tape, plenty of tire lube, and got the first bead of the new tire on easy :dance. Now I slide the tube into the tire and around the rim. Next put the valve stem thru the hole in the rim. #$%&! :banghead There's no room to fit my hand(s) inside the tire and monkey with the valve stem. Plus I have to push down on the first bead so it goes past the valve stem hole at the same time. I either need three hands or I'm doing something wrong or in the wrong order.

Can someone please enlighten me as to how to get the valve stem thru the hole?

UPDATE:

10 minutes later... I couldn't go to bed knowing that tube had gotten the better of me. Tried one more time and with much cursing and dumb luck, the stem went in. :clap

BUT, I still think there's a better/easier way :scratch

[orbitangel]

I'm in the middle of changing my tires by hand. No fancy tire changer, I want to know that I can do this on the side of the road.

UPDATE:

10 minutes later... I couldn't go to bed knowing that tube had gotten the better of me. Tried one more time and with much cursing and dumb luck, the stem went in. :clap

BUT, I still think there's a better/easier way :scratch

Actually, it sounds as if you've got the drill. Yes, it can be a Royal PITA!

I've never had anybody else change a tire for me.

I've been doing this for thirty years (not every day, of course) and all I use are the two small tire irons in the BMW toolkit (and some detergent and water.)

The most I can say is this: take advantage of the drop-center part of the rim, take your time, be patient and one more thing:

The more you do it the easier it gets.

There may be better ways (fancy tools) but not on the side of the road.

Nice goin', dude! :bow

[dsenn]

I find it easier to put the stem in the hole first then stuff the tube into the tire around the rim.

[DennisDarrow]

Yes, put the stem in first, put the nut on the stem to make sure it stays in place, put the rest of the tube in and spread it out, hit it with some air, let the air out, and then put the other bead in place................Super hassle but no reason that with patience it can't be done............God Bless.......Dennis

[moose738]

Are you using rim protectors? If not, pick up a few of these also. Not only will they protect your rims from being marred by the tire irons, they may also prevent a small sliver of rim metal from getting lodged between the tube and the tire. If that happens, you will be redoing the tire change to repair the tube. Personnel experience...:doh

[tvrla]

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/tire/index.htm

Here's a bunch of data for you.

I've always changed my own tires and have gotten fairly good at it over the years. There are still times it's a bitch, and I'm still learning new tricks - and I've been doing this since 1966.

In the last few years I discovered tire lube. I'd always used a few drops of dish soap in a cupful of water, but the lube is much much better. And at about $15 for a gallon tub, it's damn cheap. Get it now and don't wait as long as I did.

There are a lot of tricks to changing tires, for something so simple that doesn't seem possible. But it is. My brother didn't know the tricks and resorted to cutting a tire off to give you the extreme. :)

Here are a few tips: make sure the tire is warm - some can be really stiff, especially old ones. Leaving it on the roof in the sunshine will soften it up in an hour or two.

Ensure the opposite end of the tire you're working is down in the well.

Whenever replacing a tire, service the bearings.

Clean off the black grunge from the bead area of the rim - it's sticky and may prevent the tire from seating properly. Cleaning it off will also make it easier to remove the tire next time.

Cut a shampoo bottle or oil bottle into strips and place between the tire iron and rim as a rim protector.

I've had major problems with the stem as well. There's a trick for that, but I've forgotten at the moment. It may be to start the tire at the stem hole with the tube already installed in the tire, but not all the way around. I think I'll make a tool for the next time I do it - something that threads into the center (where the core goes) with a cord or cable attached, and then just pull the stem through.

Replace the patch kit every year. The glue gets old and doesn't work (don't ask how I found that one out).

Knowing how to repair your tires is an excellent idea - it's one of those things that can be a major delay, even though not that expensive as bike breakdowns go.

[subagon]

Well after getting the stem in the hole around midnight I had to finish the job. Sometime around 1:30 AM :snore I had the new tire on the rim and holding air. Looking at the new tire on the rim really gave me a felling of pride.

This afternoon I'll balance it, change the rear tire, and go out and ride off the first hundred miles.

Thanks for all the pointers!

[PMonk]

If you have three hands you can use tire iron's to pry down the tire so your hands can fit between the tire and the rim to install the stem.

Another trick is to use those big vise grips for woodworking that you can clamp the tires sides together to give more room to work. Also use them to clamp the tires to make them fit into the middle of the rims rather than hanging up on the shoulders while you are levering them on with tire iron's. You will have to stretch the tire much less if it is fit into the middle of the rims opposite of the last little bit of bead.

Also learned from my last screw up, I decided to re-use the tube since my last Conti Blitz rear was shot with only 4.1k. So I didn't order a new one. After a tube is inflated and used for a while it will contain air, It will not be nice and flat like a new one. And You guessed it, I pinched a hole in the tube with my last little bite with the tire irons. So I will always have a new tube available even if I decide to reuse the old one.

[subagon]

Front tire balanced and back on. :clap I had to use two 15g spoke weights to balance the tire (I hope that's no too much :uhoh ) The Avon tires don't have any marks on them.

Rear tire in sitting in the sun getting hot and I'm pulling the rear wheel off.

[James.A]

If it were easy, anyone could do it.

Your description sounds like my typical excercise. Get used to it. It gets easier.

[kgadley01]

here's a tip I learned out of frustration about the valve stem. I put one side of the tire on the rim, I then stuff the tube in the tire getting the valve stem as close to the hole as possible. I then grasp the valve stem at the base with a pair of needle nose plyers. then just push over and down towards the hole. the plyers are stronger than your fingers and this works for me. I use WD-40 on the tire beads. it works well and the excess evaporates or wipes off easy. :thumb :thumb

[keelerb]

You can buy a "tube snake" to help with this (google it - they go for about $15 if I remember correctly). Pornographic as it sounds, its basically a tool consisting of a part that screws into the valve connnected to a wire cable with a puller at the end to pull the valve through the rim hole. Haven't used one, but it looks like it would work a treat.

This is one of those jobs that is just a PITA, but it gets done. You try and try, curse and moan (at least I do), and then, out of nowhere, the thing just pops in there as pretty as you please. So I haven't bought a tube snake myself. But each time I do the job, I kinda wonder why....until it pops in.

To each his own.

[keelerb]

Here they are. $25, not $15. Memory not what it used to be.....

http://www.alaskaleather.com/tubesnake.html

[MotorradMike]

I feel your pain brother. Sometimes there's blood. Here's three things that helped me.

1) http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15338&referrerid=31621

2) Watch what's happening opposite where you're working on the wheel, keep the opposite bead deep in the rim.

3) If you're sweating, you're doing it wrong.

[subagon]

The saga continutes ...:violin

Okay, time for the rear tire. Read the owners manual, remove nut, slide out axel, "pull the wheel off towards the left swinging arm, then remove to the rear". Sounds easy. Nut, check, axel, check, pull wheel out, no check. First problem is the tire's too fat to slide between the brake shoes nad the "swinging" arm. To add to my greef, I have lugage racks, so no easy exit there. I figure that the fat tire problem is because the old tire is a 120/90 and not 4.00, maybe a littler wider I assume (more on this below). Well I don't really want to take off the lugage rack, it looks like it's really on there good. The read fender looks easy to take off. So off it comes. Oh, guess I have to take off the tail light too. No fight, curse and beg the rear tire out of there.

(...time passes...)

Okay the tire is out.

The tire doesn't look like it was made for this rim. the beads don't look right on the rim, too narrow. Pop off the first bead.

(...time passes...)

Okay first bead off, now the second one.

(...time passes............................................ ..............)

(Tradionalists are suggested to look away)

Screw this, I've proved that I can do this when I did the front tire. Out comes the jig saw.

(Seconds pass)

Tire off. :D

New tire on, first bead, no problem, stuff the tube in, wider tire, more room, valve slips right in:thumb Put a little air in the tube. Go grab the tire levers for the second bead. Look at rim tape on table. RIM TAPE :banghead Pull out tube AND stem. Put on rim tape. Tube, stem (easy again :D ). Second bead.

(...a little time passes...)

Ask wife for help :bow holding the tire down while I lever. No problem now. Tires done. :clap

Okay, balance it and put it back on the bike.

You don't need to hear the long story of how I couldn't get the wheel back on. Short version....

The new tire is too wide to fit back in between the swing arm and the brake shoes. I litterly took a baseball bat a hit the tire from the rear to drive it "home". I know I have to be doing something wrong.
Can someone explain? :ear

When taking off the wheel I must have knocked the top brake shoe off it's pivot point. It moved just enough so the brake drum wouldn't go on. Once I figured this out the wheel slipped right on. Game over. Fender back on. Put away the tools a nd out for a quick spin around the block.

So will I do it again (using only tire levers)? No. This ate up a big part of my weekend. I know each time I'd get faster, but I've got beter things to do. I'm glad I did it because now I know I can do this on the side of the road (given time). The next time I'm investing in a Harbour Frieght tire changer and a Mojolever (http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm).

To those of you out there that only use levers, :bow :bow :bow

[keelerb]

Your money, man, but you WILL get better with experience. I wouldn't recommend the expense of that stuff, but if it makes you happy, that's what money's for.

Just think of the mistakes you made this time that you WON'T make next time. It really does get better...,

[DennisDarrow]

When removing and installing the rear tire, DO NOT have any air in it. It gives it just enough slack to be able to compress the side of the tire and slip it past the brake...........Good job, glad you got it done...........Dennis

[sumran]

If you mingle with the local airheads you will probably find one of them that has a tire machine. And they will be happy and proud for you to drop by and use it. Then again, in your area you may be the guy with the tire machine.:)

[subagon]

When removing and installing the rear tire, DO NOT have any air in it. It gives it just enough slack to be able to compress the side of the tire and slip it past the brake...........Good job, glad you got it done...........Dennis

Dennis,

I did let the air out of the tire and it was still a b*tch to take out/put in. I've got to think I was doing something wrong:dunno . I'm looking for a Tech day in Florida and will try to learn more then.

[subagon]

Your money, man, but you WILL get better with experience. I wouldn't recommend the expense of that stuff, but if it makes you happy, that's what money's for.

Just think of the mistakes you made this time that you WON'T make next time. It really does get better...,

keelerb,

You either have time or money, but never both at the same time:gerg

Right now I have the cash :D

The second tire was faster and having my wife lend a hand helped a lot when levering the final bead.

[kgadley01]

The saga continutes ...:violin

Okay, time for the rear tire. Read the owners manual, remove nut, slide out axel, "pull the wheel off towards the left swinging arm, then remove to the rear". Sounds easy. Nut, check, axel, check, pull wheel out, no check. First problem is the tire's too fat to slide between the brake shoes nad the "swinging" arm. To add to my greef, I have lugage racks, so no easy exit there. I figure that the fat tire problem is because the old tire is a 120/90 and not 4.00, maybe a littler wider I assume (more on this below). Well I don't really want to take off the lugage rack, it looks like it's really on there good. The read fender looks easy to take off. So off it comes. Oh, guess I have to take off the tail light too. No fight, curse and beg the rear tire out of there.

(...time passes...)

Okay the tire is out.

The tire doesn't look like it was made for this rim. the beads don't look right on the rim, too narrow. Pop off the first bead.

(...time passes...)

Okay first bead off, now the second one.

(...time passes............................................ ..............)

(Tradionalists are suggested to look away)

Screw this, I've proved that I can do this when I did the front tire. Out comes the jig saw.

(Seconds pass)

Tire off. :D

New tire on, first bead, no problem, stuff the tube in, wider tire, more room, valve slips right in:thumb Put a little air in the tube. Go grab the tire levers for the second bead. Look at rim tape on table. RIM TAPE :banghead Pull out tube AND stem. Put on rim tape. Tube, stem (easy again :D ). Second bead.

(...a little time passes...)

Ask wife for help :bow holding the tire down while I lever. No problem now. Tires done. :clap

Okay, balance it and put it back on the bike.

You don't need to hear the long story of how I couldn't get the wheel back on. Short version....

The new tire is too wide to fit back in between the swing arm and the brake shoes. I litterly took a baseball bat a hit the tire from the rear to drive it "home". I know I have to be doing something wrong.
Can someone explain? :ear

When taking off the wheel I must have knocked the top brake shoe off it's pivot point. It moved just enough so the brake drum wouldn't go on. Once I figured this out the wheel slipped right on. Game over. Fender back on. Put away the tools a nd out for a quick spin around the block.

So will I do it again (using only tire levers)? No. This ate up a big part of my weekend. I know each time I'd get faster, but I've got beter things to do. I'm glad I did it because now I know I can do this on the side of the road (given time). The next time I'm investing in a Harbour Frieght tire changer and a Mojolever (http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm).

To those of you out there that only use levers, :bow :bow :bow

I would have loved to be a Fly on the wall to watch all this...LOL

[JeffMunn]

The saga continutes ...:violin

To those of you out there that only use levers, :bow :bow :bow

Not to beat a dead horse here, but I learned to change tires from an 80+ year old rider (Gene Walker of Virginia). If a guy that old who was all of 5' nothing and 120 lbs could do it with only two 10" tire irons, I had to learn.

First, use lots of lube, even on removal. You'll be amazed how much it helps.

One tire iron and a large rubber mallet does wonders to pop the second edge of the tire off the rim.

C-clamps or wood clamps often help keep the bead on the opposite side down into the deep well.

Always work the opposite side of the wheel with the tire iron, while using your thigh to keep the closer edge of the tire pushed down into the deep well in the middle.

Finally, if you are sweating and grunting, you are doing something wrong. Back off and calm down. You can bend older rims with too much force, especially if you use a mogambis tire iron for extra leverage.

Don't worry, it does get easier the more you do it.

If anyone lives around Richmond, Virginia and wants to learn, I'd be happy to host a tire plugging and changing session at my place. I've got plenty of old tires to work with.

This is a great thread. Lots of good advice here.

[20715]

After years of using just the two irons that come in the tool kit, I splurged $10 plus a little shipping and bought a couple of 15" tire irons off e-bay that make the job much easier. I just leave them in the saddle bag.

[47512]

I have changed all of my motorcycle tires over the years, about 50 years now. Alittle tire lube, and a decent set of tire irons are a must, WD40 works good but real tire lube works beter. When working with tube type tires, a couple of tips, put alittle air in the tube so it will take some shape, not alot but so it's no longer flat. I use tire talac, but any talcom powder will work, put some on your hands and coat the tube with powder, this will make the tube slide around inside the tire much easyer. Assuming you have delt with rim locks, and rim tape, road bikes don't use rim locks any more, put the portion of the tube with the stem in the area by the hole in the rim, use a tire iron to pry up on the bead that is allready on the rim, this will give you alittle more room to work with the stem, once in the hole thread the nut on two or three turns, tuck the rest of the tube in the tire, now make shure your stem is straight in the hole, alittle tire lube and you can work some the tire on by hand start at the stem, push the stem down in the hole so the bead does not catch it, I hold the bead in place with my knee and work around the rim. tip, don't go over 90 degrees to the rim with your irons because you can pinch the tube, just go slow and get another bite. I use a thick piece of leather as a rim protector, but the plastic ones work as well. For home tire changing a 5 gal paint bucket will get you and your wheel up off the floor and give you alittle more working room. A 5 or 6 gal bucket is big enough to fit most brake disc. I use a old automotive gear oil barrel for a tire stand, for me it is the ideal working hight, split some rubber hose and put it around the rim to protect the spokes. These little barrels are discarded when empty so they are around. Use a big C clamp to break the bead on a stuck bead, and more tire lube helps them to come off beter. alittle practice and this a 15 to 20 minute job including rim clean up.

Ken G.

[subagon]

I would have loved to be a Fly on the wall to watch all this...LOL

If I had filmed it I would have won the Oscar for best comedy :laugh

[kgadley01]

well I guess the word has got out on my $ 25.00 tire changing. A guy just brought me two to do tomorrow, and a friend of his has two he needs done as soon as he can get them removed. I guess they don't want to pay the extra $ 10.00 I charge for removeable and replacement. LOL Oh well it gives me something to do plus gas money.:thumb

[paulfinney2]

Pieces of old garden hose make good rim protectors. Shaped right.
Loosening the rear bolt on the luggage rack should give you room to pull tire out.

[ccolwell]

1) There was a recent blurb in, I think, Cycle World about a tool that lifts the tire to install the valve stem and rim locks.

2) http://www.nomartirechanger.com/video/showcase has good videos on tire changing. They are selling their products, but the videos are still good.

[kgadley01]

that no-mar setup looks good. I changed two tires yesterday, and I have three to do tomorrow. I may take a look at the Harbor Frieght setup also.

[JanMiller]

Tube type tires, always a good idea to inflate the tube just enough so it takes shape, prevents it getting caught under the beads, or helps anyway.

Stem, I used to carry a plastic tube I could push over the threads after inserting it from the outside, which would allow it to be guided to the hole. IF it didn't pull off, worked most of the time....

I got to where I could fix a tube on the side of the road without pulling the wheel, just broke the bead enough to be able to pull out the area of the tube with the puncture. Used those 'burn on' patches with the tin cup and lightable material, a clamp made for them. Carried a small square of plywood to put on the other side. Clean, peel, clamp, light.. stand back.... stuff back in, lever bead over, inflate TEDIOUSLY with a bicycle pump. Ugly, but beats walking to town....

I have not had to patch a tubeless tire yet.. How lucky is THAT.... Sure my day is coming... Knock, knock...:banghead

[keelerb]

Those are good suggestions Jan, thanks. The "plastic tube" in particular will be helpful to me I think.

I wouldn't worry about tubeless tires these days - if you have those "gummy worm" type of sealers and an air source, you should have no problems. It's the bloody tubes (and getting the wheels on and off, without a stand, especially bikes w/o centerstands - an abomination, in my view (but I don't run offroad)) that's the problem with most bikes.

Thanks again! - BrianK

[ccolwell]

that no-mar setup looks good. I changed two tires yesterday, and I have three to do tomorrow. I may take a look at the Harbor Frieght setup also.

I have the Harbour Freight stand with Marc Parnes rim blocks. It makes changing tube tires much easier. I also have the No-Mar mount-dismount bar for tubeless tires. I'm sure the no-mar changer is better, but it's also about $400 more expensive. Meanwhile, three more tire changes and the set up I have now has paid for itself.

[larson]

There have been lots of great info, so I thought that I would input:

put some hair around it!!

:)

[SkyRider]

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/tire/index.htm
Cut a shampoo bottle or oil bottle into strips and place between the tire iron and rim as a rim protector.

Now were talking, I've been using oil and especially gas conditioner bottles with with the bottoms cut off as funnels.

Cutting the material into strips for protectors, well, that is the next level!

Cheers

[Manfred]

I discovered a very good CBMMA solution to getting my rear tire & wheel out of the back of R80RT. The saddlebag mounts prevent the wheel from being cocked to either side and the rear fender interferes with any pulling the wheel out. The bike needs to be up in the air to provide more clearance! I made a wooden bracket for my motorcycle jack, but only succeeded in raising the front end.

Then it hit me.

I positioned my bike so the rear wheel would hang out past the garage floor, over the driveway, which is about 1.5" lower than the garage. Then I put a 2x6 where the center stand would land, on the garage floor. This raised the bike and lowered the floor enough for the deflated tire & wheel to be easily removed and re-installed.

Simple, easy, free.

[jpeck]

I started out changing tires with tire irons and rim protectors. It can be done, but takes lots of muscle. Several years ago I acquired a Harbor Freight changer, which was a big improvment, but still took a lot of muscle. After a time, I only used the changer to hold the wheel and used levers to keep from making so many marks on my wheels.

I recently added a Mojolever and Mojoblocks. I'd seen the Nomar demonstrations at rally's, but the price seemed pretty steep to change a couple of tires a year. At $130, the Mojo solution seemed like it was worth a try.

Today I changed my first tire with the new setup - the rear tire on my R1150R, which is a pretty big, pretty stiff piece of radial rubber. The Mojoblocks did a nice job holding the rim securely without any damage. The Mojolever worked exactly as advertised and greatly exceeded my expectations. I never had to use more than one hand to move the lever, and the old tire slipped off the rim so easily that I was almost giggling. Installing the new tire was the same, and no (new) marks on my rims.

The Mojolever and Mojoblocks work and are a great buy, especially if you already have the Harbor Freight changer.

John Peck
Maple City, Mi

02 R1150RA
93 K75SA

[jforgo]

Seems a lot harder with the drum than disc rear brake. I couldn't get the wheel out from the R65. I got the bottom of the wheel as far to the rear and left as possible. Then I tilted the bike to the right on the centerstand with my body, pulling slightly back on the lift handle so it wouldn't go forward on the stand. Then I reached down with my right hand, and slipped the wheel out. Assembly is reverse, of course.
Maybe this looked scary?

[lkchris]

The bike needs to be up in the air to provide more clearance! ... I positioned my bike so the rear wheel would hang out past the garage floor, over the driveway, which is about 1.5" lower than the garage.

You're getting close, but so far I think no one has mentioned the traditional way to work with rear tire, which is to do it with the FRONT wheel removed and bike tilted forward on centerstand so it rests on bottoms of forks.

An again "traditional" step in this process is to use your belt to tie front exhaust crossover to centerstand crossbar to keep the bike in this position while you work.

I think I've never changed a rear tire on my RS doing it any other way.