Need Surge Fix Guidance + Where's my Cat Code Plug?

[Eman24]

I recently purchased a 1995 R1100R and there's much to like about this motorcycle. But I don't enjoy the surging. I've synched the throttle bodies, checked the valve adjustment and finally purchased a little item I read about called CO Potentiometer, part #13621461425.


This is what the post reads: "On the older R1100 series motorcycles, there is an electrical connector under the lift handle side panel. This electrical connector is for the Idle Regulating Valve (IRV), BMW Bosch Part # 13621461425 used for open-loop configurations for BMW motorcycles. The US versions were imported to the US in closed-loop with 02 sensors and Cat Code Plug (CCP). For the rest of the world, R1100 series used the IRV in open loop. For R1150 motors, this plug was eliminated since all were manufactured in closed-loop."

"By disconnecting the 02 sensor, removing the CCP in the electrical box and simply plugging in the IRV to the BMW connector, the R1100 series is converted to open-loop with total elimination of the dreaded surge."

I took off the cover above the center stand handle and saw two (not one) plugs there. I'm assuming the "electrical box" mentioned above is the box under the seat behind the tank with the several relays in it. Yes/No ??? I could use some step by step help from anyone familiar with this procedure. And given my level of ability, any pictures would make life too good !!!!

Thanks very much~!

[mtboulder]

The CCP is the colored relay (usually yellow or pink) in the center of the fuse box under the seat. If you remove this plug the bike will run surge free but your gas mileage will drop significantly.

[grumpyone]

There is lots of info here to find on this sub. but we tried our 96 R1100R with pulling the plug and it not only ran poor things didnt work right . Just us I guess but we plugged it back in and got a Techalucion (sp) for the bike and installed it. No more surge, ran fine and only lost about 2 or 3 mpg. if that. Make sure you follow directions for the kit but: make sure you have everything done before you install the kit; ie, valves , throttles and all that good stuff where it is supposed to be.
Good Luck.
Jim and Esther

[aaaaaa]

I recently purchased a 1995 R1100R and there's much to like about this motorcycle. But I don't enjoy the surging. I've synched the throttle bodies, checked the valve adjustment and finally purchased a little item I read about called CO Potentiometer, part #13621461425.


This is what the post reads: "On the older R1100 series motorcycles, there is an electrical connector under the lift handle side panel. This electrical connector is for the Idle Regulating Valve (IRV), BMW Bosch Part # 13621461425 used for open-loop configurations for BMW motorcycles. The US versions were imported to the US in closed-loop with 02 sensors and Cat Code Plug (CCP). For the rest of the world, R1100 series used the IRV in open loop. For R1150 motors, this plug was eliminated since all were manufactured in closed-loop."

"By disconnecting the 02 sensor, removing the CCP in the electrical box and simply plugging in the IRV to the BMW connector, the R1100 series is converted to open-loop with total elimination of the dreaded surge."

I took off the cover above the center stand handle and saw two (not one) plugs there. I'm assuming the "electrical box" mentioned above is the box under the seat behind the tank with the several relays in it. Yes/No ??? I could use some step by step help from anyone familiar with this procedure. And given my level of ability, any pictures would make life too good !!!!

Thanks very much~!

Sounds like the post isn't accurate,:buds

[kgadley01]

I stopped the surging on my 99 RT by removeing the CCP fuse block. Here's what you do... remove your fuse box cover, in the first row closest to the gas tank, remove the yellow cube. then count from the left side and remove # 5 fuse. after about 10 seconds replace # 5 fuse. go for a test ride. My bike runs perfect, and the fuel mileage has not changed. if this doesn't work, simply reverse what you did...

[rgeoffrt]

I swapped out the OEM Bosch plugs, for Autolite 3923's. My surging issue is still noticeable, but not really an issue at all.
The NGK 2095's work well also.
HTH's

[MotorradMike]

Hi Eman:

Mine quit surging after a valve adjustment and TB sync including a cleaning of the BBSs.
You said you did sync and valve adjust but I hope you know that order is incorrect. Valve adjust has to be done first.

[kgadley01]

I swapped out the OEM Bosch plugs, for Autolite 3923's. My surging issue is still noticeable, but not really an issue at all.
The NGK 2095's work well also.
HTH's

I also run the Autolite 3923's

[lostboy]

Installing a CO pot is a big help, but it won't fix surging completely. Everythig has to be right to get these bikes running (near) surge-free; no air leaks, proper synchronisation and throttle potentiometer adjustment.

Simply removing the coding plug to code the bike for a CO pot doesn't work on the R1100R. Remove the stock plug and install an R1100Rs/RT plug (or make up a jumper wire that will mimic one). The next problem is fnding someone with an exhaust gas analyser to adjust the CO. Some bike shops have them, but you may have to find a good car repair shop with a sympathetic owner.

[Eman24]

Installing a CO pot is a big help, but it won't fix surging completely. Everythig has to be right to get these bikes running (near) surge-free; no air leaks, proper synchronisation and throttle potentiometer adjustment.

Simply removing the coding plug to code the bike for a CO pot doesn't work on the R1100R. Remove the stock plug and install an R1100Rs/RT plug (or make up a jumper wire that will mimic one). The next problem is fnding someone with an exhaust gas analyser to adjust the CO. Some bike shops have them, but you may have to find a good car repair shop with a sympathetic owner.


Can you tell me where on the bike the CO Pot is installed? Thanks much. Removing the CCP actually helped quite a bit. Still a bit of surging but not nearly as much as before. Thanks for everyone's help!

[barryg]

I have an early '94 R1100RS, built in '03. Since The RS was the only oilhead at that time their wern't the various map codes built into the system, just the one code for RS's. So I couldn't pull the coded plugs to even try them. I added the Techlusion kit to my bike and solved the surge problem. Also added the smaller intake tubes for more midrange torque.

[Andy VH]

My early build 94 R1100RS never had a surging problem. Back in 95 I was applying some of the tuning tips for better midrange, and one tip was to replace the yellow Cat Code Plug with the Pick Cat Code plug. So I bought one to install in the electrical panel under the seat.

The Pick Cat Code plug basically shifts the fuel map to a slightly richer mix, while maintaining the O2 sensor. However, my bike being an early Oilhead, had no Cat Code plug at all, which may be the main reason I never had a surging problem. My gas mileage average has always been about 40 to 42 for all around riding, and near 48 mpg for long steady speed rides.

So instead of pulling the CCP, replace it with the Pink CCP and it may improve your bikes riding quality like the very early oilheads.

[lostboy]

Each R1100 (and 850) has different maps for a given coding plug. A pink coding plug, for instance, gives a different map in an R1100RS than in an 1100R.

The connector for the CO pot on an R1100R is on the left side behind the side panel. The shed vent control valve has to be removed to make room for it.

[MrCrab]

Eman24:

I've been thru the same process on my 2000 r1100r. The potentiometer on my bike plugs into a connector on the right side of the bike behind the side cover. There should be a open connector there - look for the same pin set up on the potentiometer (3 pins if I remember right).

What I've learned in going thru this is that as described in your original post you must run without a ccp, or else it appears that the fuel mapping in the ccp will override the potentiometer, so that it will not adjust the fuel mixture. After some tinkering I gave up on the potentiometer (some day I may try adjusting it again). Instead I have installed a yellow ccp (the original was pink) and this has completely solved the surging problem. Only downside is a drop of 4-5 mpg (still around 45 mpg average), but I guess that is expected since the whole idea is to get the bike to run richer. Good luck.

[Eman24]

Eman24:

I've been thru the same process on my 2000 r1100r. The potentiometer on my bike plugs into a connector on the right side of the bike behind the side cover. There should be a open connector there - look for the same pin set up on the potentiometer (3 pins if I remember right).

What I've learned in going thru this is that as described in your original post you must run without a ccp, or else it appears that the fuel mapping in the ccp will override the potentiometer, so that it will not adjust the fuel mixture. After some tinkering I gave up on the potentiometer (some day I may try adjusting it again). Instead I have installed a yellow ccp (the original was pink) and this has completely solved the surging problem. Only downside is a drop of 4-5 mpg (still around 45 mpg average), but I guess that is expected since the whole idea is to get the bike to run richer. Good luck.


Thanks very much!

[Eman24]

Eman24:

I've been thru the same process on my 2000 r1100r. The potentiometer on my bike plugs into a connector on the right side of the bike behind the side cover. There should be a open connector there - look for the same pin set up on the potentiometer (3 pins if I remember right).

What I've learned in going thru this is that as described in your original post you must run without a ccp, or else it appears that the fuel mapping in the ccp will override the potentiometer, so that it will not adjust the fuel mixture. After some tinkering I gave up on the potentiometer (some day I may try adjusting it again). Instead I have installed a yellow ccp (the original was pink) and this has completely solved the surging problem. Only downside is a drop of 4-5 mpg (still around 45 mpg average), but I guess that is expected since the whole idea is to get the bike to run richer. Good luck.



I did find the connection on the right side. Thanks. Pulling the CCP helped. But before installing the CO Potentiometer, I did a careful valve adjustment and throttle body sync. The bike is not surging now. After installing the CO Pot, I couldn't really tell any difference. Not sure how to adjust it? I tried turning the brass screw clockwise to see where it would stop, but it didn't stop after 12 complete turns in. So I turned it out the same amount and left it at that. I guess it's a very fine adjustment of some sort. Any thoughts?? Thanks much for all your help. I'm very happy with the bike now.

[MrCrab]

You are correct that there does not appear to be any stop to the screw, but I have been told that the working range is around 16 turns. You can find the ends of the range using a multi-meter connected to the center pin and one of the outside pins on the potentiometer, and then reading the resistance from zero to about 1000 m-ohms. Start at one end of the range and go thru the 16 turns to see if you can get any effect on the idle. It is a very fine adjustment so go slowly. Be sure you are doing this without the ccp in place and I think also without the O2 sensor connected.

As I said in my first post I did not have much luck with the setup and instead installed a different ccp plug. You say the bike is running better now. Is that without any ccp? You may want to go back to the stock configuration and see how it runs, and if it surges badly then you can try the setup with the potentiometer. You want to be careful about running without a ccp if you are not sure the potentiometer is doing it's job because you may be running in a default mode that will result in an over-rich mixture.

You can try this link if you want to do some reading about this:

www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11inj-surging-fixes.shtml

Let me know how it turns out.

[Eman24]

You are correct that there does not appear to be any stop to the screw, but I have been told that the working range is around 16 turns. You can find the ends of the range using a multi-meter connected to the center pin and one of the outside pins on the potentiometer, and then reading the resistance from zero to about 1000 m-ohms. Start at one end of the range and go thru the 16 turns to see if you can get any effect on the idle. It is a very fine adjustment so go slowly. Be sure you are doing this without the ccp in place and I think also without the O2 sensor connected.

As I said in my first post I did not have much luck with the setup and instead installed a different ccp plug. You say the bike is running better now. Is that without any ccp? You may want to go back to the stock configuration and see how it runs, and if it surges badly then you can try the setup with the potentiometer. You want to be careful about running without a ccp if you are not sure the potentiometer is doing it's job because you may be running in a default mode that will result in an over-rich mixture.

You can try this link if you want to do some reading about this:

www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11inj-surging-fixes.shtml

Let me know how it turns out.


OK - - here's what I did and how things stand at the moment.

First of all, I checked the spark plugs and the bike is running too rich. Fluffy carbon deposited on the threads under the electrode.

Second, I tried reinstalling the CCP only to once again experience an objectionable level of surging.

Then I tested the CO Potentiometer with my multi meter. It was pretty much as you stated. The effective range was about 14 turns in my case, and one outside pin registered from zero to 500 (approx) milliohms while the other went from zero to 1000. I did do some testing of the idle, but only in the extremely high end did I hear and feel it become more sporadic. Not knowing what the reading should be, I left the CO Pot at about halfway, measuring once again and finding readings of 415 and 570 depending on which end contact was used.

Lastly, not having previously done so, I disconnected the O2 sensor (at least I think I did . . followed it from the exhaust to a spot under the right front plastic cover) removed and replaced #5 (and #6) fuses, and left it at that. I'm hoping that will enable the ECU to "see" the CO Pot and give me a more acceptable fuel/air mix.

I suppose at this point I should run the bike for a few days and check the plugs again? Additional guidance is most welcome. Thanks again.

[MrCrab]

My only suggestion would be to do any further testing in a very controlled way. First, I assume that when you put the ccp back in that everything else was stock, like the O2 sensor being re-connected?
I would start at that point and run it for a while to see if the carbon goes away (it should since surging implies too lean, and running without any cpp results in a rich mixture). Then I would leave in the ccp but disconnect the O2 sensor and see if the pot has any effect on idle speed and mixture. I too have noticed that the only change appears to occur towards the far end of the range, but I'm not sure if it is the lean or rich end. I would probably find that point and turn the screw to just before it starts to run rough, hoping that it is at the leanest stable point.
If that does not work then I would next also pull out the ccp to see what effect that has, but my understanding from what I have read is that it is the lack of the O2 signal, not the lack of a ccp, that tells the computer to look for the pot.
Don't forget to pull the mototronic fuse between each test to reset the fault codes.
I went thru a similar process and ended up just installing the yellow ccp and ignoring the pot. This completley eliminated the surging so, since that was the desired result, I just called it good enough and have not tinkered with it since. It's been about 10,000 miles since and have not had any problems.
I would like to hear if you learn more about the pot adjustment since I do intend at some point to experiment more with mine to see if I can get back some of the mileage I lost.

[Eman24]

My only suggestion would be to do any further testing in a very controlled way. First, I assume that when you put the ccp back in that everything else was stock, like the O2 sensor being re-connected?
I would start at that point and run it for a while to see if the carbon goes away (it should since surging implies too lean, and running without any cpp results in a rich mixture). Then I would leave in the ccp but disconnect the O2 sensor and see if the pot has any effect on idle speed and mixture. I too have noticed that the only change appears to occur towards the far end of the range, but I'm not sure if it is the lean or rich end. I would probably find that point and turn the screw to just before it starts to run rough, hoping that it is at the leanest stable point.
If that does not work then I would next also pull out the ccp to see what effect that has, but my understanding from what I have read is that it is the lack of the O2 signal, not the lack of a ccp, that tells the computer to look for the pot.
Don't forget to pull the mototronic fuse between each test to reset the fault codes.
I went thru a similar process and ended up just installing the yellow ccp and ignoring the pot. This completley eliminated the surging so, since that was the desired result, I just called it good enough and have not tinkered with it since. It's been about 10,000 miles since and have not had any problems.
I would like to hear if you learn more about the pot adjustment since I do intend at some point to experiment more with mine to see if I can get back some of the mileage I lost.


Thank you for the suggestions. I'll keep you posted. In the event that the CO Pot never gives me a lean enough mix, can you tell me the part number of the yellow ccp as that may be the best solution?

[bikerfish1100]

not exactly sure (haven't had to do any of this futzing, as R11S models really don't surge much, if at all), but might this http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/zero528.shtml help?

[Flyer5]

Here's what worked for me on my 1100RT .Autolite 3923's .Remove the throttle body's and clean thoroughly they were filthy after only 100k miles .Adjust valves then sync the TB's at just above the rpm range that the surging was the worst. I went just above because of the lack of load on the engine . Worked great there is a very little surge once in a while but very very slight . I account that to the tbs having a little play in the bushings .(next project ) .Either that or it may be me because if I use the fast idle lever in that range it dosen't do it. Good luck hope you get it . Also make sure you take it for a good ride before the sync get it nice and warm then use a fan to keep it cool . Dave

[MrCrab]

The part # for the ccp should be 61-36-8-366-282 (not the stock r1100r part). I found it listed on some dealer sites but not all that I looked at. Hammersley here in VA has it listed for some bikes like the r850r and the r1100s.

[cruisin]

I have been messing with the TPS settings, TB sync and CCP variations since July on my '98 RT but still cannot seem to get a suitable (to me) balance of smoothness and acceptable fuel mileage. When I use the pink CCP, I get great fuel mileage but considerable surging. If I switch back to the OEM mustard colored CCP, there is virtually no surging at any RPM but my fuel mileage drops to around 40 and I find that hard to deal with as well.

what to do what to do? :scratch

Does anyone know if there is a CCP that sets the fuel mixture somewhere between that of the pink plug and the mustard colored one? I would really like to find a happy medium here.

[Eman24]

The part # for the ccp should be 61-36-8-366-282 (not the stock r1100r part). I found it listed on some dealer sites but not all that I looked at. Hammersley here in VA has it listed for some bikes like the r850r and the r1100s.

Thanks much.


Last night I reset the CO Pot at 979 and rode the bike for 50 miles. Today the plugs were noticeably less carbonized at the base. A definite improvement, but not perfect. I'm going to leave it this way through this tank of gas and see if the mileage is acceptable.

After that I plan to check the color of the flames in the combustion chamber with the glass plug made by Colortune in England. It's an ingenious device that a friend of mine uses to tune his carbs on an R80. My thought is to carefully mark the TPS position, then adjust the TPS and see if I can get a leaner mix.

I'll keep you posted

[kenk]

I wrote the information you used in the original post for this thread. Since 2001, I used all three versions of the Techlusion on my RT for almost 80,000 miles and was one of the original testers for Mark Dobeck (Techlusion inventor). I've tried all the solutions, some working with very good results as well as the Idle Regulating Valve (IRV) - 02 pot.

With 112,000 miles, my RT is now totally surge free using stock plugs and a stock setup. What fixed my surge problem? Last summer, my RT fried the halls effects sensor. So, its now new. I then replaced the O2 sensor with a new Bosch sensor from Beemer Boneyard. http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11781464492n.html After 14 years, the 02 sensor was heavily soiled with carbon deposits. In a closed loop system, the 02 sensor give a signal when the mixture strays from stoichiometric and the ECU immediately corrects the mixture back until the signal disappears. I makes sense that if this sensor is out of tolerance, the signal would cause an erratic riding condition.

I'm not claiming this is the cause of all surging. If it was that simple, BMW would have simply replaced the 02 sensor on all surging oilheads. There are some oilheads that have surged since the first day they rolled out of the showroom. Some oilheads develop a surge over time. However, I do believe that if your oilhead has higher mileage or if you've used lower octane gasoline over a period of time, you may want to replace the 02 sensor and test the results. The motronic M2.2 on those older oilheads receives input from the TPS (factory set), air intake sensor, oil temperature sensor, hall sensor, and 02 sensor. It stands to reason that if your bike has good plugs and is properly tuned with no air leaks, the condition of the input sensors to the ECU like the 02 sensor could be the cause of your surging. For $80, it's worth a try.

Since replacing my 02 sensor two weeks ago, I've ridden about 1,000 miles on my RT and its frankly never been better. There is absolutely no sign of any surge. It's now running as smooth as my dual plug 1150 GS.

[Eman24]

I wrote the information you used in the original post for this thread. Since 2001, I used all three versions of the Techlusion on my RT for almost 80,000 miles and was one of the original testers for Mark Dobeck (Techlusion inventor). I've tried all the solutions, some working with very good results as well as the Idle Regulating Valve (IRV) - 02 pot.

With 112,000 miles, my RT is now totally surge free using stock plugs and a stock setup. What fixed my surge problem? Last summer, my RT fried the halls effects sensor. So, its now new. I then replaced the O2 sensor with a new Bosch sensor from Beemer Boneyard. http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11781464492n.html After 14 years, the 02 sensor was heavily soiled with carbon deposits. In a closed loop system, the 02 sensor give a signal when the mixture strays from stoichiometric and the ECU immediately corrects the mixture back until the signal disappears. I makes sense that if this sensor is out of tolerance, the signal would cause an erratic riding condition.

I'm not claiming this is the cause of all surging. If it was that simple, BMW would have simply replaced the 02 sensor on all surging oilheads. There are some oilheads that have surged since the first day they rolled out of the showroom. Some oilheads develop a surge over time. However, I do believe that if your oilhead has higher mileage or if you've used lower octane gasoline over a period of time, you may want to replace the 02 sensor and test the results. The motronic M2.2 on those older oilheads receives input from the TPS (factory set), air intake sensor, oil temperature sensor, hall sensor, and 02 sensor. It stands to reason that if your bike has good plugs and is properly tuned with no air leaks, the condition of the input sensors to the ECU like the 02 sensor could be the cause of your surging. For $80, it's worth a try.

Since replacing my 02 sensor two weeks ago, I've ridden about 1,000 miles on my RT and its frankly never been better. There is absolutely no sign of any surge. It's now running as smooth as my dual plug 1150 GS.



Thanks for the new info. This bike was stored for quite a bit of time and only has 5000 miles on it. It's one of those that has surged since day 1 inasmuch as it's day 2 now! At this point I've got the O2 sensor disconnected, the (pink) CCP removed and a CO Pot installed and adjusted at a point where it gives almost maximum resistance readings. I'm pretty sure there are no air leaks but don't really know how to test for that. The plugs are good - - The standard Bosch plugs and the Autolite both seem to do about the same job in my case. So I'm trying lots of things to get to a point where I have a lean enough mix not to pollute the atmosphere with unburned HC and being able to ride surge free. I think it's still burning a little rich and my less than advanced tech knowledge beckons me to advance the iginition timing a bit. That's why I'm interested in trying a Colortune and adjusting the TPS setting. I'd appreciate your comments.

[Eman24]

I wrote the information you used in the original post for this thread. Since 2001, I used all three versions of the Techlusion on my RT for almost 80,000 miles and was one of the original testers for Mark Dobeck (Techlusion inventor). I've tried all the solutions, some working with very good results as well as the Idle Regulating Valve (IRV) - 02 pot.

With 112,000 miles, my RT is now totally surge free using stock plugs and a stock setup. What fixed my surge problem? Last summer, my RT fried the halls effects sensor. So, its now new. I then replaced the O2 sensor with a new Bosch sensor from Beemer Boneyard. http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11781464492n.html After 14 years, the 02 sensor was heavily soiled with carbon deposits. In a closed loop system, the 02 sensor give a signal when the mixture strays from stoichiometric and the ECU immediately corrects the mixture back until the signal disappears. I makes sense that if this sensor is out of tolerance, the signal would cause an erratic riding condition.

I'm not claiming this is the cause of all surging. If it was that simple, BMW would have simply replaced the 02 sensor on all surging oilheads. There are some oilheads that have surged since the first day they rolled out of the showroom. Some oilheads develop a surge over time. However, I do believe that if your oilhead has higher mileage or if you've used lower octane gasoline over a period of time, you may want to replace the 02 sensor and test the results. The motronic M2.2 on those older oilheads receives input from the TPS (factory set), air intake sensor, oil temperature sensor, hall sensor, and 02 sensor. It stands to reason that if your bike has good plugs and is properly tuned with no air leaks, the condition of the input sensors to the ECU like the 02 sensor could be the cause of your surging. For $80, it's worth a try.

Since replacing my 02 sensor two weeks ago, I've ridden about 1,000 miles on my RT and its frankly never been better. There is absolutely no sign of any surge. It's now running as smooth as my dual plug 1150 GS.


After putting another hundred miles on the bike, my mileage for the last tankful with the current set up is actually worse than it was before putting the CO Pot in the system. And the plugs show just as rich a mix as they did with just the CCP removed. I'm going to try to adjust the CO Pot differently and try a bit more before returning to stock as I don't want to damage my catalytic converter, but I need to ask you, what color was your CCP? Mine was/is pink. Thanks again.

[cruisin]

I have been messing with the TPS settings,. . . . . .
Does anyone know if there is a CCP that sets the fuel mixture somewhere between that of the pink plug and the mustard colored one? I would really like to find a happy medium here.


Just thought I would emphasize the question a bit seeing as how there has not been a response either way. :ear

[kenk]

Here's a good article that you may want to view before you start modifying the stock configuration of your bike. It was written by the late Rob Lentini. Rob's testing was done on a BMW oilhead about the same year as your bike.
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11inj-surging-fixes.shtml

I would recommend going back to stock and then ensuring the bike is properly tuned before making any changes. Small variations in tune on a twin can give you sensations that feel like a surge. You've stated the bike is 14 years old, with very low miles. Are you certain the fuel injectors are not gummed up? If I bought a bought a bike with so few miles at that age, I would drain the tank, change the fuel filter, refill with good premium gasoline, and add Chevron Techron to help clean the fuel system. I would also check the fuel injectors to insure a good even mist. I would then use a Twinmax or other types of device afterwards to ensure the throttle bodies are still synchronized. Have you cleaned the large brass screws, setting the idle with the Twinmax as well.

Only after I have ruled out the mechanical settings, electrical deficiencies, no air obstructions and fuel contamination for the problem, would I then recommend purchasing a Techlusion that operates off the stock configuration as a last resort. This should be the model that fits your bike. This model is plug and play and operates while your bike is in closed-loop. Properly set, this should only increase your CO from the stock setting of 1.5 CO +/- .5 to around 2 CO. The Techlusion model is the FI-1033ST TFI Fuel Injection Module for BMW R-259 R1100R/RS/RT/GS 1994-00 (Plug and Play). I was one of the original testers on a beta version of this product 4-5 years ago for Mark Dobeck and the product generally has positive feedback from its users. I used one successfully for 50,000+ miles. This product simply extends the duration the fuel injector pintle is open to provide a richer mixture. Key to success for any Techlusion is richening the mixture by only a very small amount to eliminate the surge. You can with this product, overly richen the mixture. Again, I wouldn't operate my bike without a CCP. On a EGA, without a CCP, your CO emissions are well over 4 CO ppm (about three times higher than stock). http://www.techlusion.com/shopping660/shopexd.asp?id=28

Do you know if the previous owner attempted to fix this problem with home cures? Many of these bikes have been fiddled with by folks that really didn't know what they were doing. If you're not certain, you may want to take your bike to a dealer to ensure the TPS is correct and properly tuned for the first time before attempting to do it yourself. I would not recommend attempting to check the TPS yourself unless you are a school trained mechanic. Again, this is factory set and very sensitive to the smallest changes.

Here's the CCP information. Recommend pulling your plug and compare numbers. In the upper left, click on 61 - Electrical and then click on the square for various relays. Your CCP is #6 on the Diagram.
http://maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/MainDiagrams.asp?mospid=47947

Personally, I would not operate my bike without a CCP. Before installing a Techlusion, I would also replace the stock 02 sensor with this new version from Bosch. 02 sensors have improved over the years. Bottom line, rule out the mechanical, electrical, air, and fuel possibilities as the problem before attempting to change the stock configuration. Changing the CCP or adding a Techlusion while having any of these problems will have you chasing your tail. Nothing you will do will make the bike run better than it does properly tuned with good sensor inputs to the motronic. Believe me, I have tried every solution over the course of 80,000 miles and eight years.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11781464492n.html

[Eman24]

Here's a good article that you may want to view before you start modifying the stock configuration of your bike. It was written by the late Rob Lentini. Rob's testing was done on a BMW oilhead about the same year as your bike.
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11inj-surging-fixes.shtml

I would recommend going back to stock and then ensuring the bike is properly tuned before making any changes. Small variations in tune on a twin can give you sensations that feel like a surge. You've stated the bike is 14 years old, with very low miles. Are you certain the fuel injectors are not gummed up? If I bought a bought a bike with so few miles at that age, I would drain the tank, change the fuel filter, refill with good premium gasoline, and add Chevron Techron to help clean the fuel system. I would also check the fuel injectors to insure a good even mist. I would then use a Twinmax or other types of device afterwards to ensure the throttle bodies are still synchronized. Have you cleaned the large brass screws, setting the idle with the Twinmax as well.

Only after I have ruled out the mechanical settings, electrical deficiencies, no air obstructions and fuel contamination for the problem, would I then recommend purchasing a Techlusion that operates off the stock configuration as a last resort. This should be the model that fits your bike. This model is plug and play and operates while your bike is in closed-loop. Properly set, this should only increase your CO from the stock setting of 1.5 CO +/- .5 to around 2 CO. The Techlusion model is the FI-1033ST TFI Fuel Injection Module for BMW R-259 R1100R/RS/RT/GS 1994-00 (Plug and Play). I was one of the original testers on a beta version of this product 4-5 years ago for Mark Dobeck and the product generally has positive feedback from its users. I used one successfully for 50,000+ miles. This product simply extends the duration the fuel injector pintle is open to provide a richer mixture. Key to success for any Techlusion is richening the mixture by only a very small amount to eliminate the surge. You can with this product, overly richen the mixture. Again, I wouldn't operate my bike without a CCP. On a EGA, without a CCP, your CO emissions are well over 4 CO ppm (about three times higher than stock). http://www.techlusion.com/shopping660/shopexd.asp?id=28

Do you know if the previous owner attempted to fix this problem with home cures? Many of these bikes have been fiddled with by folks that really didn't know what they were doing. If you're not certain, you may want to take your bike to a dealer to ensure the TPS is correct and properly tuned for the first time before attempting to do it yourself. I would not recommend attempting to check the TPS yourself unless you are a school trained mechanic. Again, this is factory set and very sensitive to the smallest changes.

Here's the CCP information. Recommend pulling your plug and compare numbers. In the upper left, click on 61 - Electrical and then click on the square for various relays. Your CCP is #6 on the Diagram.
http://maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/MainDiagrams.asp?mospid=47947

Personally, I would not operate my bike without a CCP. Before installing a Techlusion, I would also replace the stock 02 sensor with this new version from Bosch. 02 sensors have improved over the years. Bottom line, rule out the mechanical, electrical, air, and fuel possibilities as the problem before attempting to change the stock configuration. Changing the CCP or adding a Techlusion while having any of these problems will have you chasing your tail. Nothing you will do will make the bike run better than it does properly tuned with good sensor inputs to the motronic. Believe me, I have tried every solution over the course of 80,000 miles and eight years.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11781464492n.html


Thanks very much.

Having gone back to stock once and experienced the same amount of surge, I decided to try the mustard yellow CCP rather than the pink one that I pulled out. This helped quite a bit. There's still some slight surging but it's pretty much as Mr. Lentini described in his article. Responding to some of your other points - yes the fuel filter and air filter were changed a few hundred miles before I purchased the bike. I will check the injectors this weekend. I used a Morgan Carbtune to synchronize the throttle bodies; I will clean the brass screws and do another synch this weekend.

I don't know whether the previous owner tried any "home cures." It seems the previous owner didn't do very much at all with this bike. I'm not a trained mechanic but have taken two years worth of motorcycle tech and repair classes at LA Trade Tech and work as an intern in a motorcycle shop one day per week (probably the oldest intern in Southern Calif!) - I emailed my instructor who confers that fiddling with the TPS is not the thing to do as the digital equivalent of a carburetor's mixture screw is built into the Motronic program.

I will order the new O2 sensor and keep you posted.

[cruisin]

I have been messing with the TPS settings,. . . . . .
Does anyone know if there is a CCP that sets the fuel mixture somewhere between that of the pink plug and the mustard colored one? I would really like to find a happy medium here.

Just thought I would emphasize the question a bit seeing as how there has not been a response either way. :ear

hmmmm, guess no one knows; I withdraw my question.

[Eman24]

I haven't personally tried these, but according to the late Rob Lentini, the answer appears to be no.

Here's the section from his article on the subject that pertains to your question:
[B][I]
I evaluated seven (7) different map configurations on my R1100RS. GS and R folks might experience differences due to compression ratios and cam timing.

BTW: CCP connections were made to configure the Motronic unit in accordance with BMW data. I made up a four-wire jumper connector with spade terminals so I wouldn't have to buy all the different CCPs. Connection pins are related to the pin numbers you will observe on the pin-side of your CCP. Early "Beta" pre-production R1100RSs were "hard wired" for catalytic converters, and have no CCP socket.

1. R1100RS without cat, no CCP connections, CO pot installed:

Best overall power
No surging
Significantly higher emissions
Converter damage likely
Poor fuel consumption
2. R1100RS with Golden Yellow CCP, 30-87 connections, no CO pot

Performance very close to #1
Very slight surging
Low emissions
Better fuel consumption than #1
3. R1100RS with CCP, 30-87 connections, with CO pot (to observe if pot can be coinstalled with O2 sensor)

Performance same as #2
Same emissions
CO pot has no effect, appears to be ignored
4. R1100RS - CH (Switzerland) with cat, Dove Blue CCP, 30-86-87a connections, no CO pot

Breaks up under hard throttle; won't full beyond 7000rpm
More surging than #2
Performance SUCKS!
5. R1100GS without cat, Beige CCP, 30-87a connections, no CO pot

OK midrange power; relatively weak top end
Defaulted to 1.8% (because of no CO pot)
No surging
6. R1100GS with cat, Rose Pink CCP, 30-87-87a connections, no CO pot

Weak mid range power, weaker than #5
Significant surging
(Note: This CCP when matched with GS Intake Tubes (see http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11pwmod.shtml) can significantly improve mid range torque on RTs and RSs)

7. R1100GS - CH (Switzerland) with cat, Mahogany Brown CCP, 30-86-87-87a connections, no CO pot

Starts, but won't idle unless throttle is held open. I did not ride my bike in this configuration.
UNRIDEABLE!
Conclusions:

Config #1 is best for power, has high emissions, increases fuel consumption (O2 sensor seems ignored or overpowered--no closed loop) and will probably damage a catalytic converter. Use only with non-cat exhaust system.
Config #2 is very close the #1 in performance, has some surging, low emissions, better fuel consumption, and will work with or without a converter.
No other CCP configuration will work acceptably in an R1100RS. It would be interesting to observe the performance of an R1100GS with RS mapping.
The CO pot, if installed with a "with cat CCP", is ignored. YOUR money is wasted!
If the CCP is removed, and the CO pot is not installed, the "1111" CO pot fault is set, and the Motronic control unit defaults to 1.8% CO value.
It is IMPERATIVE when making ANY Motronic changes to clear faults by removing and then reinstalling fuse #5, and to be safe, fuse #6.

[cruisin]

When Lentini refered to more than two connectors does that indicate that all three are tied together?



with Golden Yellow CCP, 30-87 connections, no CO pot

with CCP, 30-87 connections,

with cat, Dove Blue CCP, 30-86-87a connections,

I have also noticed that the CCPs will fit two ways; 180 degrees apart. Do you know if this makes a difference or will yield the same result either way?
edited 03/10/09 @ 6:01 cdt: did some tinkering over the weekend and discovered that my statement about fitting two ways was totally incorrect. I guess I had just lucked out each time I inserted one and happened to have it land in the correct orientation. I took the time to pull the yellow CCP out and rotate it 180 degrees and discovered that the pins are no where near correctly aligned when doing this; said all that to say NEVER MIND on this particular question. Could still use all the other info though.

greatly appreciate the information and anything else you have. I now have the RT running very smoothly, but the fuel mileage is horrible (with original mustard yellow CCP) compared to what it was just a couple of years ago with same CCP. Now getting 40mpg driving mostly 65mph; two years ago was getting 45 to 48 consistently when I drove 'nice' like that. Then it began to taper off and I have been through or checked everything that might have an effect on it. (plugs, plug wires, coil, O.2 sensor, TPS setting, TB sync, valves, cleaned injectors, air filter, fuel filter, air leaks; have I left anything out?) :scratch

[cruisin]

I asked a couple of folks questions through PMs a day or two ago and got no replies so I thought I would kick this back to the front page to see if anyone else has the answers I seek.

:scratch

[cruisin]

ok; if no one has the answers, where is the best source for purchasing the CCPs? I am thinking I need something slightly leaner than the the mustard colored one but not as lean as the pink one; maybe the blue one. I currently have the pink plug installed and it runs fine (smooth) until I put it under heavy load like accelerating away from a stop or turn, or going into strong headwinds. Then it wants to buck a little and as soon as I level off or back off the throttle a little, it smooths out again. Seems like it is starved for fuel under those heavy loads.

thoughts?

[Hoorenga2]

I stopped the surging on my 99 RT by removeing the CCP fuse block. Here's what you do... remove your fuse box cover, in the first row closest to the gas tank, remove the yellow cube. then count from the left side and remove # 5 fuse. after about 10 seconds replace # 5 fuse. go for a test ride. My bike runs perfect, and the fuel mileage has not changed. if this doesn't work, simply reverse what you did...

I did exactly the same thing and have no more surging. It runs like it should. I haven't checked the mileage yet but it seems normal.

Doug

[jamesdunn]

I swapped out the OEM Bosch plugs, for Autolite 3923's. My surging issue is still noticeable, but not really an issue at all.
The NGK 2095's work well also.
HTH's

I find the Autolite 3923's to be sufficient on my "94 RSL. Surging is unnoticable. Sure, I could spend more funds on a Telelusion kit or some such, but am unsure I'd gain value in return. I am satisfied with the inexpensive "fix".

[abe456]

I've owned/worked on many a oilhead, and have learned the simple things are the most important:

-start with careful, accurate valve adjustment. Even a small error will amplify surge problems.

-do the lentini 0=0, be slow, careful, precise. Make sure results are repeatable, and voltage doesnt drift as you blip the throttle and let it rest against the idle stop.

-pay close attention to throttle cable adjustment during right side sync. Watch the free play, if it's out of spec, you will not get satisfactory results with sync, no matter how hard you try. Check the adjustment at the throttle grip. If most/all of the adjustment has been used up, there's a good sign new cables are needed.

After you have done a sync, wait a day or two, check idle sync and speed at 2500 to 3500, whatever you choose. If the sync drifted, check the throttle cable free play, touch up the sync again. Dont' put all the tupperware back on until you can get repeatable results!

[RedSledRider]

http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle-performance-accessories/techlusion_fuel_injection_control_module.htm#BMW_

I will let you know how it goes in a couple of days.

[RedSledRider]

I will give up 2-3 MPG not to fight the bike for the other 40.
I could tell right off the bike it was running better because it started without fast idle. After dialing it in. It ran great.
Coming into work this morning (50 miles) of highway, not once did it start to surge or act up.:dance