K75s touring setup, need advice

[craigt]

I just got a used K75s (all stock). I want to set it up for "comfortable" touring. I have read about a lot of modifications like, Corbin seat, c-bars, bigger windshield, extra driving lights etc... Currently I have on order, a Corbin seat with backrest and the c-bars. Can anyone share their successful setups with me?

Thanks,
Craig

[Manfred]

Regardless of what bike you ride, suspension and seating are the top issues for long distance riding. Corbin seats are top notch. Progressive Suspension springs are a great improvement. I installed an HID Xenon headlight (http://www.alpha-bid.com/product196.html) rather than add extra lights - lower power drain and much brighter.

[craigt]

what model springs did you get and where? did you get the whole shock and spring or just the spring?

thanks,

Craig

ps: i like the HID suggestion.

[Manfred]

Craig,

I've used these products on two bikes and have been very pleased: http://www.progressivesuspension.com/productsearch.aspx

The HID light is extremely effective on dark rural roads - where critters like to play games. Side markers light up like torches.

[craigt]

were you referring to front fork springs?

craig

[Manfred]

were you referring to front fork springs?

craig

Both ends. I first put a Progressive Spring on rear of my old Virago. Then front springs. When I replaced that with a Yamaha triple, I put Progressives on both ends. When I was drooling over, er shopping for, my boxer - it came with Progressive Springs on the front and a Fox Shox high-end rear shock. Those were key criteria - along with the Corbin seat - in my decision to buy it.

[35634]

Aeroflow make the best windshield IMO. Looks good, works good, & needs no mods.
Parabellum's you need to use bar end mirrors, match the paint, and mine was noisey
and flexed alot. I like bar backs better than the C bars, but either way you'll want
the taller shield. Bungie buddies are handy but look horrible. I made some out of
coat hanger wire and pop rivets that are functional and inconspicuous. And get a good
fix-a-flat kit.

[craigt]

yes, i was checking out the aeroflow. i think i may try it. who makes a good tire fix kit?

[toddlamp]

I haven't done any serious touring yet. The longest trip i've done was 600miles and that was on my K75/2 standard with no fairing at all. I recently swapped over to a K75c setup. In case you don't know it's got a smallish cafe racer style front fairing/windscreen. It is a huge improvement over nothing :D

I tried an HID retro fit kit in my headlight and it was horrible. The light was anything but focused. I even tried a super expensive PIAA HIDish bulb and the results weren't much better. I ended up using a slightly more powerful bulb from the local auto parts shop and was happy with what I got. At some point I may upgrade the wiring as i've heard that's where the better output comes from. Currently I have a set of Lamp One front fork brackets that reuse the reflector mounting holes and attached a set of Hella Optilux 1500 driving lights; makes a very very big difference.

On my old bike I had a Stop N Go tire plug kit that had great reviews (http://www.stopngo.com/). I never had to use it and it was stolen with the bike.

[craigt]

Both products look good. where did you get the brackets you mentioned. google could not locate.

thanks,

craig

[marvhil]

I think you will enjoy touring with the k75s. I have tried a lot of things, but ended up with pretty much a stock bike with a Corbin seat. I use a duffel bag across the hard bags with 4 bungee cords(redundency) it's wide enough to hold the tent poles and if you cross two cords it stays where you put it. Enjoy

[bikerfish1100]

i toured x-c country on my '88 K75S. only mods to the bike consisted of a Corbin seat (i'd go with a Rick Mayer now) and a radar detector.

if you haven't taken yours out for some full day rides- i would hold off on making changes based on what other people say works for them, as each person finds different things to their liking (or their disliking, as the case may be). try the bike, see what you like about it, and what you dislike about it, THEN start making changes.

for example- some prefer C-bars, some like bar backs, but when i had a K75C, the first change i made was to swap out the stock bars for a set of S bars; they just work much better for me.

[mieczkow]

I've done a good bit of touring on my '87. I have the Aeroflow windshield (highly recommended), stock hard cases, Progressive springs in the front forks and a Progressive shock on the rear. I also have "C" bar with 1" barbacks, and a Russell Daylong low seat. Also put on PIAA lights (front caliper mounted), and I put the Eastern Beaver headlight wire/relay kit on the bike to brighten up the headlight and preserve the handlebar switch. I have done as long as 15 hours in the saddle in a single day and found it to be very do-able.

Tom Mieczkowski
'87 K75S

[98lee]

Factory throttle friction screw:

BMW# 32721454414 Locking Bolt $10.09

A poor man's Throttlemiester that actually works better at 1/10 the price.

Rev-Pack large tour bag
22 liter top box
3rd generation saddle bags (largest integral cases) with Reflectguard reflective tape kits
Saddlebag liners
Multivario tank bag (electrified)
50 Amp alternator
Switched altitude plug
4-way flashers
Osram (not Sylvania) Silverstar headlight


:dance :dance :dance

[breyfogle]

Corbin seats are top notch.

Everybody's butt is different but I hated my Corbin seat. It was too wide, too flat, hard as a board, and the left & right edges were very squared off (uncomfortably so). Fit & finish was not the greatest either. A K75 already has a rather tall seat height and at 5'10" I just could not get comfortable with the Corbin's shape. If you are 6' or so mayber these issues go away.

I left it on the bike only long enough to have the OEM seat rebuilt.

YMMV

[98lee]

Everybody's butt is different but I hated my Corbin seat. It was too wide, too flat, hard as a board, and the left & right edges were very squared off (uncomfortably so). Fit & finish was not the greatest either. A K75 already has a rather tall seat height and at 5'10" I just could not get comfortable with the Corbin's shape. If you are 6' or so mayber these issues go away.

I left it on the bike only long enough to have the OEM seat rebuilt.

YMMV

Wouldn't that be : YBMV ?


:dance :dance :dance

[BillThornton]

Found the Corbin Seat uncomfortable (too high, hard, wide). What seems to work best is the Alaska Sheepskin seat cover over the standard seat. Givi 65 liter hard sided rear luggage needs optional bracket...but adds much needed luggage space. A close fit over the rear seat is the Marsee 50L Zipp Bag. Expensive but lots of storage options.

[joeangi]

The fork light mounts are from Martin Fabrication see cycle gadgets, they are made for the Piaa 1100x series. Great combo. Alternately member Toddlamp makes some great mounts that can be customized for almost any light.

[toddlamp]

The fork light mounts are from Martin Fabrication see cycle gadgets, they are made for the Piaa 1100x series. Great combo. Alternately member Toddlamp makes some great mounts that can be customized for almost any light.

Thanks Joe! Let me know when/if you need those other parts. I'll hold onto a set for you.

[scbmwrider]

First Join K-BMW at Yahoo (http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/kbmw/) if you haven't already.

Second HID light paterns will not work well with your current reflector. You will be better off first getting (or making) a headlight relay kit. I, along with many others can highly recommend Eastern Beaver (http://www.easternbeaver.com/) kits. A relay kit will get more juice to your light and save all the juice from going through your expensive hi/lo switch. after you have your relay kit installed get a good H4 bulb from PIAA etc. I like the PIAA Super Plasma GT-X myself.

Position and wind protection are largley a function of your height and body position. I'm 6'2" and like the "C" bars and stock screen. (I think that any others I have seen are UGLY :whistle ) I did have a K75C for many miles and they do offer better upper body wind protection for me.

Seats are a personal issue. Some bottoms like others better than others. My bike currently has a Corbin which I do not like. Thinking of getting it rebuilt locally if I can find a good place to do it.

If you have the $$ there are many rear shocks that will improve your bike.

Our trips are almost always 2 up. We find that between a the hard bags, tank bag and our LARGE dry bag, on the tail rack we make out OK.

Enjoy your bike !

Oh ya your year won't be complete if you miss the Klassic K Kampout!

[scbmwrider]

Oh ya another thing that works with C bars, Don't know about S bars. BMW handgurads (http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=1592) This link is from A&S but your FLD should be able to get them for you. They DO make a difference. I ride every day to work and keep them on from October to May.


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2184/2268331153_66f47c73c5.jpg

[jpeck]

I'm 5'8" with a 30" inseam and have been touring on a k75s for several years.

Things I've did that I like:

Corbin Seat
Aeroflow Windshield (provides extra protection for long trips and cold weather. I still like the stock shield for warmer weather, as it allows more air flow. I believe that the stock shield is also more stable in cross winds)
Schneiders lever-lock throttle screw
Kathy's seat bag (U-shape fits over seat and extend to top of side bags. Mine is made of the heavy vinyl material) I use it for camping gear on long trips)
Tank Bag
22l top case (small but useful)
Side case liner bags.
Works Shock
Heated grips
R100gs handguards (helps the heated grips work better by keeping hands out of the wind.)
Bungee buddies at strategic points on side cases and top case
R100gs fork boots

Things I've did that I didn't like:

bar risers
C-bars (My bike came with C-bars installed. I tried bar risers with the C bars, but they were no improvement. I finally installed the original S-bars and like the riding position a lot better. I believe that the Aeroflow windshield is a lot quieter with the S-bars, as it lowers my helmet just enough to get it out of the airflow)

[nh7robmw]

I did a windshield mod with some plastic spacers, rubber washers and longer stainless screws from Ace Hardware---check out the article on Web Bike World's site---it helps a good deal with the wind noise and buffeting and only cost me a few dollars and some time to make the lower two spacers a bit shorter.

I'm 6' tall and the windshield is now more upright and is mounted about an inch or so further out ahead of me than before. If I really want quiet air, I tuck down a bit and all is well.

I'll post a photo another time when I have more time online.

[GregFeeler]

I just got a used K75s (all stock). I want to set it up for "comfortable" touring. I have read about a lot of modifications like, Corbin seat, c-bars, bigger windshield, extra driving lights etc... Currently I have on order, a Corbin seat with backrest and the c-bars. Can anyone share their successful setups with me?

Thanks,
Craig

Assuming you have just recently gotten this bike, or haven't taken in it on a "tour" I would suggest you go ahead with the seat, and then just take it out and ride it.

You may - or may not - find the front forks to your liking. Progressive brand fork springs will be stiffer and you may get better results from a combination of more and/or slightly heavier fork oil. However, IMHO the stock rear K-bike shocks are over-spring and under-dampened and will always benefit from an aftermarket replacement. I have a K75S to which I added a YSS rear shock ($375) and it made it a whole new bike. I think you'd have to spend $600 to find it's equal. I also went with 10w fork oil and left the stock springs. I also have a K75 standard on which I installed a basic Progressive rear shock and for the $225 it cost me it was worth every cent - not the shock that the YSS is, but easy to adjust for preload which was a requirement on that bike since a) I don't ride it as hard, and b) my significant other rides on it with me and the stepped preload adjuster was much easier to use than the treaded rings of higher end shocks.

Buy good tires. I've used just about everything available for a Klassic K-bike and my current favorites are the BT-45 Bridgestones. Very responsive and stable handling. Almost as good as the Dunlop radials that were available at one time. I went with the 80 series profile for slightly more rubber and stiffer sidewalls.

I personally prefer the standard "S" bars and standard windscreen. You might or might not, which is why I suggest you take it for progressively longer rides to see for yourself what you like and don't like - then make the changes.

[scbmwrider]

Buy good tires. I've used just about everything available for a Klassic K-bike and my current favorites are the BT-45 Bridgestones. Very responsive and stable handling. Almost as good as the Dunlop radials that were available at one time. I went with the 80 series profile for slightly more rubber and stiffer sidewalls.


Yes BT-45's ROCK on Klassic K's!

[nh7robmw]

Buy good tires. I've used just about everything available for a Klassic K-bike and my current favorites are the BT-45 Bridgestones. Very responsive and stable handling. Almost as good as the Dunlop radials that were available at one time. I went with the 80 series profile for slightly more rubber and stiffer sidewalls.


I gather that the 205s are no longer available in K-bike sizes, Greg?

Regarding the BT-45 80 series, did you go with 110/80-18s for the front and 140/80-17s for the rear?

I'm looking around for some new tire ideas for my K75S and I'd heard somewhere else around here that D205s were the way to go for K75 models... But if they're no longer available I might give the Bridgestones a go instead.

Don't mean to hijack this thread but my curiousity got the better of me after reading your post above:brad

[GregFeeler]

I gather that the 205s are no longer available in K-bike sizes, Greg?

Regarding the BT-45 80 series, did you go with 110/80-18s for the front and 140/80-17s for the rear?

I'm looking around for some new tire ideas for my K75S and I'd heard somewhere else around here that D205s were the way to go for K75 models... But if they're no longer available I might give the Bridgestones a go instead.

Don't mean to hijack this thread but my curiousity got the better of me after reading your post above:brad


Last fall I found out that Dunlop had dropped the D205 140/80R17 rear radial tire. Avon is the only company who makes a radial that size (in their Azaro series), but they only offer the 110/80R18 front tire in their Storm ST series. I figured mixing tires from two different series wasn't a good idea, so I had to find something in a bias-ply tire.

After talking to a number of folks who's opinions I respected (including a retired Grand Prix racer) who all said the BT45 was the only tire they would run on an airhead or Klassic K, I put a set on my K75 standard (the K75S still has the D205s). I did go with the 80-series since that was the size I used in the radials, I knew they would fit, and a shorter (read: stiffer) side wall and wider tread seemed like a good idea.

I've been very impressed with them, and much to my surprise I think they are a fine substitute for the D205 radials. The handling is light, but stable. Easy to pick a line, and they have really neutral and linear turn-in that encourages you to lean deep into the corners. The BT45's are a dual-compound design and I don't know much about tire life, but handling comes first for me. One good part about these is they were less expensive than either the Metzelers or Michelins.

[GregFeeler]

Yes BT-45's ROCK on Klassic K's!

:thumb

[scbmwrider]

I ran a 80 profile set once. They were fine but I didn't like the front, it turned in slower than the 100/90. On my bike I need another spacer to keep a 140/80 from touching my swingarm.

Living where I do, very close to the GA/SC/NC mountains, handling is VERY important to me. The BT's get me 10-11K on the front and 5K on the rear. Rear were is mostly due to my daily commute stopping and starting and my right wrist :brow

As with most things YMMV

[nh7robmw]

I trust your opinions and your tire philosophies, guys---handling is paramount to me, too. I could almost give a hoot about mileage; over here I ride far fewer miles than as if I was on the mainland. It's all about sticking to the road and good handling.

Without a doubt and further ado, I'll go with the BT-45s for sure. I have Bridgestones on our 4-wheeler and they're great tires, too.

One last question for GregF: will the 110/80s fit on the front wheel (K75S 3-spokers) or should I specify the 100/90? I would also go with the 140/80 rear assuming it fits without any problem.

Thanks in advance for your reply and now we will return the thread back over to craigt...:)

[GregFeeler]

I trust your opinions and your tire philosophies, guys---handling is paramount to me, too. I could almost give a hoot about mileage; over here I ride far fewer miles than as if I was on the mainland. It's all about sticking to the road and good handling.

Without a doubt and further ado, I'll go with the BT-45s for sure. I have Bridgestones on our 4-wheeler and they're great tires, too.

One last question for GregF: will the 110/80s fit on the front wheel (K75S 3-spokers) or should I specify the 100/90? I would also go with the 140/80 rear assuming it fits without any problem.

Thanks in advance for your reply and now we will return the thread back over to craigt...:)

The 110/80-18's fit the front no problem. The 140/80-17 on the rear should clear the swing arm but there won't be a lot of room (just clearing is good enough). Keep in mind that the plate between the rear wheel and the rear drive is *not* a spacer - it's a "friction coupler". It's job is to help the wheel and rear drive "stick" to each other. It's thickness is allowed for in overall rear end design. You shouldn't need an extra one for the 80-series BT-45's.

[scbmwrider]

Keep in mind that the plate between the rear wheel and the rear drive is *not* a spacer - it's a "friction coupler". It's job is to help the wheel and rear drive "stick" to each other.

??? This is the first that I heard this. I always thought that the 4 bolts made the wheel "stick" to the final drive. :dunno The parts catalog (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0572&mospid=47908&btnr=36_0164&hg=36&fg=10) calls it a "spacer".

[nh7robmw]

OK, thanks GregF (and GregH)!

[TMCKRS4V]

Mr. Ellenbergers very trick K75s that has since changed hands..
Great comprehensive write up

http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/K75S.html


Also be sure to check out Paul Glaves "Old Smokey"