BMW brand oil $9/qt, yes or no?

[DWr100s]

NEVER Mind finally found the thread where this is beat to death, no more BMW oil for me (especially if it has indeed gone UP since my last purchase - crazy). thanks all. If I can figure out how to delete this post I will.

I've been using the BMW brand oil faithfully figuring, yeah its crazy expensive but a 30 year old bike deserves the 'best'. And mine loses oil, not burns it (yes, that's a fix long overdue) so it's about 2-3 quarts a month though I only ride this bike about 100 miles a weekend most times.

Should I use something more generic or go to synthetic?

A winter project is to fix the main source of loss, the gasket in the front but told it requires special tool, etc. And then redo the oil pan gasket and retorque.

thanks.

[20774]

Losing that much oil? It doesn't make sense to keep putting any more oil in the thing...synthetic will come out just as fast if not faster and cost more. Man, that's a leak. It's still winter...I'd fix it now.

Just exactly where is it leaking? Sounds like it might be the camshaft seal. No real special tool other than removing the rotor...the tool can be bought for less than $20. I'm pretty sure the seal can be removed from the and reinstalled...

With a dead loss oiling system like you've got, you're in danger of losing it all in one shot, taking the motor with it. As they say, pay me now or pay me later...

Interesting in the spark plug wire thread you classified yourself a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy...sounds like you're there...no offense intended, just an innocent bystander...

My 0.03...

[DWr100s]

I knew I shouldn't have mentioned this rate of oil loss I've ignored. But you're right, that's the problem and I will fix it. Actually I didn't think about the possibility it could suddenly while riding get much worse, and besides perhaps trashing the engine, spew enough oil to get on the tires while riding. That would not be fun.

Thanks for the guilt trip and sanity check, I needed the push, will do.

oh and I'm not into ain't broke don't fix it... as I mentioned, I believe in PM, I'm an IT manager and waiting for things to 'break' in my biz is almost as disastrous as that attitude on motorcycles and airplanes, a very bad landing awaits. THANKS!

[bikerfish1100]

once your bike is fixed, there is no reason on this planet to drop in any kind of oil that costs $9/qt- unless you really want to fund the retirement of your local shop owner.
good oil that meets BMW specs (20W50, SG or SH api rated) is all you need. Castrol has a number of m/c specific oils that fit the bill- i've been happy with their ACT-Evo 20W50 at around $4/qt from Cycle Gear. Buy a case or 2, get the bill over $100, and shipping is free!
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=CAS_12900_G

[kgadley01]

Your oil loss was called a total loss oil system back in the very early 1900's . If you don't have the time or the tools, put it in the shop and get it fixed. Otherwise one day you will have greater problems.:thumb

[Manfred]

once your bike is fixed, there is no reason on this planet to drop in any kind of oil that costs $9/qt- unless you really want to fund the retirement of your local shop owner.
good oil that meets BMW specs (20W50, SG or SH api rated) is all you need. Castrol has a number of m/c specific oils that fit the bill- i've been happy with their ACT-Evo 20W50 at around $4/qt from Cycle Gear. Buy a case or 2, get the bill over $100, and shipping is free!
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=CAS_12900_G

How far do you ride between oil changes, using the Castrol semi-synthetic?

[bikerfish1100]

i just go 6k, as BMW specs it (unless i'm on tour, in which case i might go a tad longer). probably should get the oil analyzed... i bet it'd be good for 10K or so.

[Manfred]

Thanks for your reply. I don't have a rider's manual for my airhead and am not aware of the recommended change interval. I have been using Amsoil MC in my Yamaha and going 5k miles, vs 3k recommended. I'll give that Castrol a close look.

[bikerfish1100]

on an airhead, i'd probably change semi-synthetic every 5k, as it only has a 2.5 qt capacity. i believe factory spec was 3K at the time, but that would have been with regular dino oil.
my oilhead calls for 6K changes, but it runs just under 4 qts.

time for you to buy a Clymer's or Haynes manual!

[Manfred]

Thanks, bikerfish

[bikerfish1100]

no problemo.
http://www.amazon.com/Bmw-R50-Through-R100Gs-Motorcycle/dp/0892878541/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1232920912&sr=8-4\

[DWr100s]

Nowy you've got me all paranoid, ok, will be getting that cam housing gasket problem fixed before another ride. It is messy I must admit and has become worse of late. $20 rotor removal tool someone mentioned, and I know someone on MOA back when I first mentioned this said a home made tool could do it but.. glad to spend $20 then donate it so the next guy in need. I'll check my Clymer for the tips.

thanks all, who needs a wife to make you feel guilty when there's MOA. THAT knowledge would have saved me thousands.

[20774]

$20 rotor removal tool someone mentioned, and I know someone on MOA back when I first mentioned this said a home made tool could do it but.. glad to spend $20 then donate it so the next guy in need.

Just make sure the tool is a hardened tool or bolt. It will be put inside the cam nose and pushed against. If it should bend, it will ruin your day. Here's a good description of what's going on and even instructions to make your own tool.

http://www.airheads.org/content/view/194/98/

Joe Cuda made a bunch of 'em back several years ago...sent them out gratis to a bunch of guys on the Airheads list. I carry mine around in my tool tray just in case.

[DWr100s]

I'll check that, thanks Kurt; that is a great pieceon this process thank you!

And finally after digging found it in my clymer in the Electrical System area, p 382 in my copy, "BMW special tool (oh I can only imagine what that 'special' will cost me at my dealer) Rotor Puller #12 3 600." But his is much more helpful to a hack mechanic like me.

Guess I'll replace the brushes in the process.

thanks again all, great info as always.

[bikerfish1100]

$8 from Cycleworks?

http://www.cycleworks.net/tools.htm

[DWr100s]

$8 from Cycleworks?

http://www.cycleworks.net/tools.htm

cool cause $8 versus the time from my weekend to make even this simple 'tool' is a big savings, thanks. If it were something I were going to use a few times.. no, still not worth the time. I'll use the $3 per gal gas prices came down in CA the last month or so to pay for it, while that lasts anyway.

[orbitangel]

1. $20 rotor removal tool someone mentioned...

2. ...glad to spend $20 then donate it so the next guy in need.

DW,

A couple of points:

On the first point: How many quarts of nine dollar oil will it take to pay for that tool? Hmmmm... let's see...

On the second point: That tool should be ONE of the items which you hang on to. Keep it in your tool roll for that "rainy day" whose arrival you cannot predict but CAN guarantee!

There are certain "MUST HAVE" tools for minimum basic airhead maintenance.

Everybody has their own take on this. For me, personally, this list includes:

1. Exhaust Nut wrench.

2. Swingarm pivot locknut socket (and some kind of breaker bar or ratchet to turn it with.)

3. Alternator rotor removal bolt (hardened.)

4. Decent digital Volt/Ohm meter and test leads.

5. These IN ADDITION to the stock BMW toolkit.

None of this stuff is expensive but ALL of it is pretty much indispensable.

Best of luck!:thumb

[DWr100s]

Yep, that's me; AAA motorcycle insurance whose tow policy is great and a cell phone to call them with. I agree and do carry some tools but the reason people disagree about what to carry is because there's just no end to it.

I broke a clutch cable last summer while buzzing down an expressway headed to the mountains for a ride. Now I maybe could have fixed that on the spot with a couple pairs of pliers and some creativity, whatever, but I called for a tow instead.

Making sure the bike is healthy before I ride it is more my concern, like the oil leak I've been putting up with until it got ridiculous. THAT I now realize was stupid and perhaps even dangerous.

If I were doing Paris/Dakar or crossing the Mojave, I'm all for tools and spares but I don't. I carry the basics to tighten a nut, bolt, pull a sparkplug or get the engine cover off but beyond that, nada.

And yes, Verizon is that good! Ha, thanks man, good advice just the same.

[orbitangel]

I agree and do carry some tools but the reason people disagree about what to carry is because there's just no end to it.

Making sure the bike is healthy before I ride it is more my concern...

If I were doing Paris/Dakar or crossing the Mojave, I'm all for tools and spares but I don't. I carry the basics to tighten a nut, bolt, pull a sparkplug or get the engine cover off but beyond that, nada.

And yes, Verizon is that good! Ha, thanks man, good advice just the same.

DW, my good man!

I NEVER meant to suggest that you CARRY all that stuff! (and I think you will agree that it isn't all that much stuff anyway, in the way of tools.)

Like you do, I believe in doing MY maintenance AT HOME, in the garage - NOT along the side of the road someplace.

If one does that, one will GENERALLY not need to carry too many tools on the bike.

But that alternator rotor removal tool is so small and easy to carry, it would be foolish to own one and NOT carry it in the factory tool roll.

You could have the alternator rotor fail, limp into a cheap motel in Mudville, USA.

Get on the phone to Bob's BMW, get a new one shipped UPS Red and be back on the road the same morning you get the part. Vacation/Rally/Ride SAVED!

Airhead maintenance can be that easy!

[20774]

DW -

I don't remember where you said the leak was coming from in the front of the bike. If it's the camshaft seal, you don't need the special tool. Only if the leak is coming from behind the alternator...in that case, you'll need the tool to pop the rotor off. I wasn't sure where the leak actually was.

If you have to go behind the alternator, be careful removing the stator. There is some delicate wiring that you don't want to damage. Use pieces of wood and gently walk the stator off its mounting points. Then you have access to the rotor where the special tool comes in...

[DWr100s]

DW -

I don't remember where you said the leak was coming from in the front of the bike. If it's the camshaft seal, you don't need the special tool. Only if the leak is coming from behind the alternator...in that case, you'll need the tool to pop the rotor off. I wasn't sure where the leak actually was.

If you have to go behind the alternator, be careful removing the stator. There is some delicate wiring that you don't want to damage. Use pieces of wood and gently walk the stator off its mounting points. Then you have access to the rotor where the special tool comes in...

Kurt, thanks AGAIN, I am adding this to my notes on how to do this; yes, it will require the alt coming off. You have a 78 R100 and 69 R69s, I last summer sold a 68 R69s I'd had for about 30+ years, still have one of those universal keys that go in the headlight as a great memory, Earls front end. It had got beyond my ability to restore and needed it, the guy who bought it a total enthusiast and boy did he make it cherry, at a cost to him of about $4K+ after buying it from me for I think $4200 not running. Enjoy and thanks again man.

[keelerb]

Rotor removal bolt is $5 from Rick Jones:

http://www.motoelekt.com/newaltbolt.htm

[aaaaaa]

NEVER Mind finally found the thread where this is beat to death, no more BMW oil for me (especially if it has indeed gone UP since my last purchase - crazy). thanks all. If I can figure out how to delete this post I will.

I've been using the BMW brand oil faithfully figuring, yeah its crazy expensive but a 30 year old bike deserves the 'best'. And mine loses oil, not burns it (yes, that's a fix long overdue) so it's about 2-3 quarts a month though I only ride this bike about 100 miles a weekend most times.

Should I use something more generic or go to synthetic?

A winter project is to fix the main source of loss, the gasket in the front but told it requires special tool, etc. And then redo the oil pan gasket and retorque.

thanks.

I'd fix the leak and not worry about the oil brand.
aaaaaa

[DWr100s]

Rotor removal bolt is $5 from Rick Jones:

http://www.motoelekt.com/newaltbolt.htm


Thanks, added that to my order for new rotors and plug wires, if I'm not careful I'm going to have this thing all fixed up THEN what will I do??

Oh yeah. Ride.

[crazydrummerdude]

My sarcasm-meter is bouncing all over the place on this thread.. maybe I need to infer (or read) better.

[DWr100s]

OK, I never did the fix on this oil leak.. friend keeps promising to help do this and some other fixes (carb rebuild) in his garage versus me doing it out in the street.

So it still goes through/leaks a lot of oil and now, while riding this a.m. the GEN light came on and stays on.

I'm hoping (I think) it's the oil problem. Or for $90 I've heard this rotor replacement costs should I just do it and the gasket in one swoop? 78 R100s with about 56K on it.

THANKS
DW

This by Kurt is in my notes on this:
I don't remember where you said the leak was coming from in the front of the bike. If it's the camshaft seal, you don't need the special tool. Only if the leak is coming from behind the alternator...in that case, you'll need the tool to pop the rotor off. I wasn't sure where the leak actually was.

If you have to go behind the alternator, be careful removing the stator. There is some delicate wiring that you don't want to damage. Use pieces of wood and gently walk the stator off its mounting points. Then you have access to the rotor where the special tool comes in...

[jforgo]

be very careful with the rotor and the little plastic brush holders. It is very easy to push it in and break one of those - i have heard they are unobtainium. I used and saved the little plastic sleeve that came with my rotor, to use as a "special tool" to slip the rotor past the brushes.

Also a good time to replace diode board, rubber mounts for same, and cable from there to starter. There are good threads about all this...

[DWr100s]

be very careful with the rotor and the little plastic brush holders. It is very easy to push it in and break one of those - i have heard they are unobtainium. I used and saved the little plastic sleeve that came with my rotor, to use as a "special tool" to slip the rotor past the brushes.

Also a good time to replace diode board, rubber mounts for same, and cable from there to starter. There are good threads about all this...

Thanks, good tips and yes I found a great thread 'GEN light dimly on' that really covers all this. GRACIAS.

[26667]

I thought I'd read years ago that BMW oil has more zinc (?) than other oils and that the zinc(?) is really helpful somehow to the 247 engine.

maybe I have the wrong element, but the BMW had a higher % of 'something' that was helpful to the bmw power plant.

My policy is to run it fast and change the oil and filter frequently; every 2-3 K mi, and occasionally spring for 'the good stuff' rather than Golden Spectro which is only slightly cheaper, but available at the nearby Yamaha shop. But never any oil by the case from Costco.

BTW, Any opinions on changing the oil w/o changing the filter?

My own theory is that since I have a deep sump that adds a qt to the total, I'm only leaving in a 1/4 pint of dirty oil, thus making the total oil 90% cleaner!

IF I did that bad thing which i'm not saying I would ever do. Even to save the pita of replacing the filter cover. and those three damnable bolts...because i'm a patient grasshopper

[airhead78]

BTW, Any opinions on changing the oil w/o changing the filter?

My own theory is that since I have a deep sump that adds a qt to the total, I'm only leaving in a 1/4 pint of dirty oil, thus making the total oil 90% cleaner!

IF I did that bad thing which i'm not saying I would ever do. Even to save the pita of replacing the filter cover. and those three damnable bolts...because i'm a patient grasshopper[/QUOTE]



FWIW, if you change the oil every 3K the filter should be good for 3 oil changes unless you see some other problem. But do so at your pweril. just what I do. I tend to think we tend to over maintain our machines.

[Jimmer]

BG ( Bearings and Gears ) makes a product called Shear Power in a synthetic blend made for 4 stroke engines. BG Products are known for their racing lubricants. I have been a distributor of their products for years and swear by them. I just purchased a gallon from my local rep for $20.00. Many bikers who use it claim their engines run much cooler. I use it in my R65. The part number is 7771.
Jimmer

[SoreCheeks]

I think swapping oil out early with out a filter swap makes great sense. I believe you can do this at least once between oil filter changes. It's just so easy there's no reason not to spend $10 on 2 quarts and 15 minutes to make it happen. Over maintenance can get out of hand but running clean oil without over doing it is a great long term investment.

I'm pretty sure Spectro makes BMW's oil, or at least some of it. I run spectro dino in crankcase, trans, and final. I know the syn vs dino issues and have stuck with quality mineral oil with more frequent changes. I don't care if syn can last 12k miles and keep viscosity. I want to get the dirt out and check that magnetic plug a bit more frequently.