New Member, First Post: 2000 R1100R Stalls

[big_ed]

Introduction:
Hello all, my first post since joining BMWOA. Name is Ed and I'm from Humble, Texas. I own a 2003 K1200LT and we really enjoy it but I've wanted the other kind of BMW, a boxer, for my daily commute. I found a 2000 R1100R and decided it's the one.

About the Bike With the Issue:
2000 R1100R. Good price so I expected a good scrubbing and a little work. I know nothing about the history of this bike. No papers, 66,000 miles in her, and kinda dirty. Runs a little rough compared to the K-bike but I don't know how a boxer should sound. It cleaned up good and I was happy... until today.

The Issue:
Full tank of premium gas, bike cleaned up, nice 80 degree day, time to give it a good test run. But after about 10 miles it just died, at highway speed. I coasted over to a stop and it would start again and run but die again after a mile or so. After a few miles of this it wouldn't start again. I could hear what sounds like the fuel pump running but the symptoms seem like lack of fuel.

I called AAA for a tow. When the flatbed arrived about an hour later I thought I'd try to start it again... It started right up. I told the wrecker driver I wanted to see if it would make it home and he agreed to follw me. Got a mile down the road and it died again. We loaded it on the flatbed. When we got it home it started right up then died again. I think it has something to do with the engine warming up, I dunno. But I can't take it out again until I figure out what's causing this.

Any help will be appreciated.

[Manfred]

Greetings from another newbie! I'm near Willowbrook. I'll invite you some rides - good people on bikes in these parts.

[jurgen]

Welcome to the club!
My first guess would be a bad hall sensor (that's the sensor that senses the crank position and controls the ignition timing).
Other culprits may be the engine cutoff switch or the sidestand switch - either one could intermittently go bad.
Good luck!

[zee05059]

Hi Ed

First thing I would try, especially w/ unknown history is to change out the fuel filter that lies in the gas tank.

[big_ed]

Thanks. I'll pull the tank, check the pump, change the filter, figure out how to bench test the Hall Sensor. Other items on the list are the coils, fuel pump relay, O2 sensor, oh my.

[Troutluck]

I would second the fuel filter. Probably needs a good tuneup too. Easy to do.

[mtboulder]

The fuel filter is a good place to start. Blow through the filter when you get it out and see if it's plugged. Also see what blows out of it (i.e. water) Your symptoms could be the result of water in the gas and/or tank.

Also make sure that the gas tank is getting air through the vent hose so as not to create a vacuum inside the tank. When the bike stalls try opening the gas cap. If there is a vacuum release when you do this then the vent hose is likely plugged. When you are replacing the filter check the condition of the two smaller rubber hoses inside the gas tank. One hose is for the small water drain hole you see on the lip of the gas fill neck when you open the gas tank. The other hose is the vent hose that comes from the charcol canister (if you bike still has one which may have been removed by now).

Look down by the rear brake foot pedal.

Depending on modifications made to your bike you will have up to 3 hoses there:

1) one hose is the battery drain hose. These usually get eliminated when a maintenance free or gel battery is installed.

2) one hose is the water drain hose from the gas tank filler neck. If you blow through this hose you will hear air coming out of the small drain hole in the fill neck of the gas tank.

3) one hose could be your vent hose if someone removed the charcoal canister. You can also blow through this hose to see if it is clear.

After all of the above, if you still have the problem try pulling out one of the injectors and hold it in a glass jar. When you turn on the ignition the fuel pump cycles for about two seconds and you should see a fine mist spray come out of the injector. Then when you crank the engine the injector should again spray a fine mist (vs squirting streams of gas). Check the gasoline in the jar for contamination (water).

Report back if you still have the problem and people will help out.

[big_ed]

I am starting to get encouraged. I am excited about performing these straightforward step-by-step procedures you suggest. I will report back Monday after having completed the checks.

I feel like a kid on Christmas.

thanks,
Ed

[bikerfish1100]

i'm also inclined to believe fuel filter. there is a method for doing a "rough field test" on the Hall sensor, with no removal of unti required- do a search on this forum to locate the procedure. or wait for Paul or Anton or one of the other guys that do those things frequently to chime in.

[guitardad]

I suspect a fuel system problem of some sort, too. Plenty of good advice alread on the fuel filter, but try this: Take it for a ride, and as soon as it quits, pull over to the shoulder and open the fuel filler. If you hear a "whoosh" as air rushes in, the problem is in the vent.

If the problem is related to the vent, next I'd find the vent hose that goes back to the charcoal cannister, mounted on the right side of the bike on the rear subframe. Pull the hose from the tank off the cannister and ride again. If you get past your 10-mile limit, the problem is that the cannister has gotten gas or water into it, and it's now clogged up. Either replace it, or perform a Cannisterectomy, depending on your environmental sensitivity.

[big_ed]

UPDATE as promised.

Took the tank off, pulled the pump and changed the fuel filter. Suprised that the tank looked clean.

While it was apart I pulled the rear body plastic and ispected the remnants of a "canireserectomy" performed by prior owner. Noticed the rubber hose going to an electric emissision valve near the rear brake fluid resevoir on the right side of bike was capped.

Put the tank back on, started it up, it ran a little while then died. So out of curiosity, I uncapped that valve (which must have originally connected to the charcol cannister) and it RUNS! I drove it to work, it never died.

Now if I can figure out what to do with that valve. And even more disturbing, the left exhaust pipe is turning cherry red when the "choke" is on.

You guys are good.

[bikerfish1100]

when you say the pipe is turning red when the choke (actually, just a hi idle control) is on... i'm suspecting that you're letting the bike warmup before riding it, right? if so... DON'T DO THAT!!!! start it, take off within about 30-90 seconds, it's fine.

do a search on "canisterectomy" here, or on the Pelicanparts.com website (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/forumdisplay.php?f=24 )- it will show you that that solenoid valve should have been removed along with the canister.

good job tracking things down!

[PGlaves]

If the canister is gone - then cap both pipe stubs on the bottom of the throttle bodies with vacuum caps - the OEM caps for a K75/K100 work great; run both the vent and drain lines from the tank down to just inside the right foot peg; eliminate any other hoses, and just let the hoseless valve sit there.

[big_ed]

Exellent. And the electrically operated valve back there... just disconnect the electrical plug and we're good?

[kgadley01]

Like BikerFish1100 said, never let the bike sit and warm up or idle for more than a few seconds. I had to get re-educated also. Start it and ride it. I think you have everything else figgered out. Good luck and welcome to the Forum.

[big_ed]

Thanks to all of you, we're well on the way to a nice bike. Today's progress:

-Unplugged and removed the electric canister valve back there and removed all the old hose routed to the throttle bodies;

-Lengthened the vent hose that originally ran from the tank to the canister and ran it down behind the right footpeg alogside the filler neck drain tube;

-Capped the nipples under the throttle bodies;

-Installed new Autolite 3923 sparkplugs gapped to .028";

-Finished reupholstering the seats (what a PAIN to do).

Runs much better already and looks a little better with the new Naugahyde.

Next mission is to adjust the valves and balance the throttle bodies. I need to do more research before I tackle those. But I'm determined.

Thanks everybody. Here's a pic....
http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/42731/2279225830104705647S600x600Q85.jpg

[big_ed]

With the valve adjustment finished, all is done but the TB balancing. Waiting on the Twinmax I ordered for that.
Boy o boy, it is running faily smooth and STRONG. I love this boxer, er, oilhead.

Thanks for the tips. Got some extra help from Mr. Grocer, thanks bud.

Thanks again... Ed
:bow

[mtboulder]

Nice work Big Ed.

Glad you got it sorted out. It's a good idea to read these posts from time to time as you will learn about known Oilhead issues and what to do about them should your bike start to exhibit any of the symptoms. After a while you'll be helping out other guys that need it.

[big_ed]

Here's an update on the R1100R.

As previously posted, I bought this bike knowing I'd have some work to do (Got a great price 'cause it was so rough). I had done all but the TB balance. Well, tada, I just syncronized the throttle bodies, took me awile this first time out, but WOW.... What a difference. Crazy. Purrs at idle, no surge at 4000 RPM.

So I think the last check I have on the "must do" list is the spline check. Think I'm going to keep riding until the weather gets cold again. I'll wait a bit to do that scarry job.

I'm sure glad there are so many internet resources for DIY's. I hate to think what all this would have cost to have a professional do it. Of course they could have done it quicker. Thanks for all the tips.

Happy, happy boy.