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View Full Version : Slip sliding away......


Boxwrench
01-15-2009, 04:54 PM
Is there an ( ya I know bmw nothings cheap) inexpensive way to stop my slding fwd on my 1100RT?
seems like if the horn of the seat was at an anglge more upwards I would stayto back of the seat.

I spend more time w/ the horn of the saddle caressing the family jewels than sitting where most of that thin padding is.

A new seat isn't likely at this time. Tho I have looked a Cee baileys police seats and richards seats but right now are pricey for me.

alien_hitchhiker
01-15-2009, 05:04 PM
Boxwrench, you might try raising the front of your saddle by shimming its mounting bracket with washers or a spacers. You'll likely need longer mounting bolts as well.

I believe this mod has been described on the forum here - a search might turn up some pics for you, or at least some more details.

1aretea
01-15-2009, 05:59 PM
That happened to me on my current R1150RT-04 and R1150GS-01, tried the homade seat jack. But didn't like it much. I recomend Sergent's world performance seat. not cheap but real comfy!

marbil
01-15-2009, 06:19 PM
I am sure there is a handle bar mount that will set the bars back a bit that would surely help
my 2 cnts

Boxwrench
01-15-2009, 06:28 PM
I Have the set back risers . However I keep sliding down the saddle.
No matter what.
I looked up shimming the front. Most reported no total satisfaction.

They ended up w/ a new $$$ seat.

queretaro
01-15-2009, 06:41 PM
I moved the Airhawk seat pad on my R1100R just a bit forward and found this solved the problem.

Rich
01-15-2009, 07:29 PM
http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2926

kgadley01
01-15-2009, 08:00 PM
BoxWrench,... look on E-Bay for the seat shim kit. thats where I got mine. it works great and comes with the longer bolts you will need. I think it was about $ 20.00 or so. It leveled my seat and made it much more comfortable. But if you can find the right size bolts, only about 3/8" longer you could use washers. the kit comes in two pieces for each side. you can shim it at 1/8" or 3/8" ( where mine is ) or 1/2" max. Good luck...

Boxwrench
01-15-2009, 11:59 PM
Thx, I will look into it.
Tho 3/8" don't seem like much.

Graben in his post noted."
I bought the kit described by Mr. Frank. The kit has parts that can raise the front of the seat 1/4", 5/l6" or 3/8" . I tried 3/8", but the passenger seat would not hook up. I then tried 5/16" and the passenger seat would hook up. This position of the seat is better than standard but not perfect. I read on this forum under FAQ, a sugestion by Fernando Belair to alter the rear seat bumpers by a 1/4" to complement the front adjustment. I will try this next."

Jfixit
01-16-2009, 05:07 AM
I use a seat pad and pull it forward enough to let my tail bone slide off the back, it creates a little pocket to sit in and I don't ride I jeans. Jeans stick too the seat and make the problem worse by bunching things up.

Rich
01-16-2009, 06:25 AM
Tho 3/8" don't seem like much."

You'll be amazed how much 3/8" changes things for you.

DPeakMD
01-16-2009, 09:06 AM
I had the same problem ('04 R1150RT). Bought the aftermarket solution seat jacks. They do improve the situation somewhat. I use the optional spacers to get the most benefit. It's better, but the tendency to slide forward still exists under hard-braking conditions. I agree that an aftermarket seat is probably the best solution. If I had it to do over again, I'd have saved my money and just gone for the larger $ seat replacement, which is still probably a near necessity anyway. YMMV. :wave

co_g30
01-16-2009, 12:41 PM
I'd used the shim kit, but later on wanted more "reachability" to the ground on my RT.

removed the shim kit, it does make a difference. however, now started sliding forward.

went with this: LINK (http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2008/09/homebrew-triboseat-rider-proof-of.html)

Boxwrench
01-16-2009, 02:18 PM
I'd used the shim kit, but later on wanted more "reachability" to the ground on my RT.

removed the shim kit, it does make a difference. however, now started sliding forward.

went with this: LINK (http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2008/09/homebrew-triboseat-rider-proof-of.html)


Thanks! Between this and the jacks it may solve my problem.

thompsonr
01-16-2009, 04:05 PM
Heres the same idea different materials but also cutting the bumpers.

http://home.comcast.net/~gsansoucie/wsb/R1100RT/R1100RTSeatRisers.htm

Give this a look...........

moshaffer
01-16-2009, 04:05 PM
Super glue??:scratch

awagnon
01-16-2009, 08:57 PM
I shimmed the front supports of my 1150RT by 5/16 inch and trimmed the rear bumpers by about 3/16 inch. That and bar backs made the difference. I bought a Sargent seat which really didn't help much more. It's OK, but I was about as comfortable on the OEM seat and a sheep skin. Also, consider taking your seat to a car upholstry place and have them tune it up. Can usually do that for about $50 with pretty good results.

Boxwrench
01-16-2009, 11:04 PM
I shimmed the front supports of my 1150RT by 5/16 inch and trimmed the rear bumpers by about 3/16 inch. That and bar backs made the difference. I bought a Sargent seat which really didn't help much more. It's OK, but I was about as comfortable on the OEM seat and a sheep skin. Also, consider taking your seat to a car upholstry place and have them tune it up. Can usually do that for about $50 with pretty good results.

I know one who redid my zuki mustang seat and added real gator.
I know he does harleys but not sure about BMW saddles.

my main problem is still not at all able to be sitting in the middle of the seat where the padding is.
The previous post are good leads and the non slip pad looks interesting.
I slide no matter what w/ my mesh riding over pants.

Boxwrench
02-09-2009, 02:37 PM
I have fabricated 2 sets of plates from 3/16" and 2 sets from 1/4" aluminium stock.

The how-to I followed only goes to 1/4", is that the max?

http://home.comcast.net/~gsansoucie/wsb/R1100RT/R1100RTSeatRisers.htm

can ya go to 1/2" and do I have to cut the 1/2" off the saddle bumpers that go into the seat hight mechanism?

1/4" don't seem like it would be enough for me.

I have the the 2 1/4' sets is now just to try it out and can sorta get the tab into the rear seat slot and lock but the front seat wiggles.

r11rs94
02-09-2009, 02:55 PM
http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=SJ
Have you looked at these.

awagnon
02-09-2009, 04:17 PM
The how-to I followed only goes to 1/4", is that the max?

I found that when I went thicker than 5/16 inch for the front shims, that the front of the seat hit the rear of the tank in one or two of the height positions. So I stopped at 5/16 inch. That and lowering the rear bumpers 3/16 made a world of difference, at least for me.

Still, a good upholsterer can add padding to the front and middle so you won't slide. They can also change the cover to something more non-slip.

Boxwrench
02-09-2009, 05:24 PM
http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=SJ
Have you looked at these.


Instead of buying a kit, I made them.

Boxwrench
02-09-2009, 05:42 PM
I rode with the homemade plates in at 1/2" today running errands First time the seat felt like a saddle No sliding to the tank., tho I wasn't wearing the overpants, just leather chaps.

The front of the seat is above the usual postion buy the amount I used and there is a gap between the front and rear seat interface.

This is why I asked if I hafta cut the full 1/2" of the bumpers.

I may go to the uhpolsterer I used before and ask what he can do on the cheap.

jvkato
02-09-2009, 06:11 PM
I think bob's bmw offers a kit that raises the front of the seat. Also the washers would probably work fine.

awagnon
02-10-2009, 08:44 PM
This is why I asked if I hafta cut the full 1/2" of the bumpers.

I'd be careful how much you cut off the bumpers. I'd go with raising the front or a combination of both.