PDA

View Full Version : Glaicier NP, approaching from the east?


nyfty
01-11-2009, 06:21 PM
I could use some regional knowledge about approaching Glaicier NP from the east. I would like to start the morning in St. Mary or Browning. But have heard several bad experiences about staying overnight in that area. (Esp. Browning) I do not plan on camping overnight that night.

Can someone more local share their experiences?

PGlaves
01-11-2009, 06:54 PM
My experience is that St. Mary is a nice town to stay in - we have camped there and stayed in a motel there too. Browning is a dump in my considered professional opinion.

rinty
01-11-2009, 11:48 PM
Browning is a dump...PGlaves

+1, and I won't even stop there for gas. For motels / hotels in the immediate area, I would suggest East Glacier, West Glacier, or St. Mary. If your budget can accomodate it, the Isaac Walton Inn in Essex or the Glacier Park Lodge in East Glacier, are wonderful places. But there is a good selection of accommodation in the area.

Montana
01-12-2009, 12:43 AM
Browning or St Mary is like saying, uh, breakfast bar or hot breakfast. Browning is a community (Blackfeet tribe), St Mary is a typical park entrance village.

Don't stop at the junction in St. Mary. Go N just beyond the entrance to the park and find Red Eagle Lodge and Johnson's, on the right, it is about the best place to stay and eat (http://www.johnsonsofstmary.com/); there's a campground, a motel, and one of the best restaurants in the area. Family-style meals, big bowls of food. Be forewarned, though, the driveway is a big uphill but there's plenty of flat at the top and you can park at your room.

The Park Cafe has the best pies.

East Glacier is a very small year-round town, at the best entrance to the park (Two Medicine Lake and Kiowa Cut off) and the lodge is nice if you can afford it. Otherwise, check on East Glacier Motel (get a little cabin, they're great) (http://www.eastglacier.com/). Right nearby is the Thimbleberry Restaurant. Or stay at the Whistling Swan (http://whistlingswanmotel.com/.

And, wow, eat at Serrano's if you like Mexican-American style. They used to have a place in Red Lodge (near the Beartooth Highway) and Whitefish but I think East Glacier is the only one, now, and it's only open in the summer. They have a Backpacker Lodge, it's like a hostel.

PGlaves
01-12-2009, 09:47 AM
Don't stop at the junction in St. Mary. Go N just beyond the entrance to the park and find Red Eagle Lodge and Johnson's, on the right, it is about the best place to stay and eat (http://www.johnsonsofstmary.com/); there's a campground, a motel, and one of the best restaurants in the area. Family-style meals, big bowls of food. Be forewarned, though, the driveway is a big uphill but there's plenty of flat at the top and you can park at your room.


Yes indeed - that is the place - stayed there at least twice. I couldn't remember the name so didn't try to guess in the prior post.

108625
01-12-2009, 12:07 PM
We live a couple hours away (southeast in Great Falls) and make frequent trips to Glacier, and just do dayrides as well. I don't know what time of year you're planning this visit, but it can affect what roads are open (Looking Glass and Many Glacier, for example might be open but get hammered by winter slides and/or spring washouts).
We've stayed at each of the main lodges (well worth it) and camped out. Rising Sun is our preference for campgrounds towards the east side. The Issak Walton Inn in Essex (Highway 2, south of the park) is a nice stay too, though we prefer it for wintertime visits.
PM me if you have more questions, I'll be glad to try to answer them.

rinty
01-12-2009, 12:17 PM
Jim:

There are a number of old threads on this area. Just do some searches under "Kiowa" and "Glacier" and you'll pull them up.

You'll have a great time in the Park; it's one of our favourite places.

Montana
01-12-2009, 02:16 PM
Time of year is important and so is time of day. Don't schedule yourself tight for time. It's not unusual to wake up in the morning, planning on an early start, and finding frost or even snow on the ground, in July. Give yourself the slack to wait it out.

The Izaak Walton is a long way out of the way, if you want to go into the park at St Mary. If you want to stay there, I'd go there after coming out at West Galcier. Go over the pass, East to West, in the morning, so the sun is mostly behind you. Then, from West Glacier, you backtrack East a bit, and by then it's afternoon, so you can ride to Essex and see animals along the river. If you are a train buff, it is a must-see.

We're "Boat people" from GNP: Used to run the tour boats on Two Medicine, St Marys, at Many Glacier and on Josephine.

rinty
01-12-2009, 02:58 PM
Go over the pass, East to West...Montana

:thumb And doing it that way, you're also a traffic lane away from the cliffs, which may be of some benefit if you, uh, hit a corner hot.

108625
01-12-2009, 03:20 PM
We're "Boat people" from GNP: Used to run the tour boats on Two Medicine, St Marys, at Many Glacier and on Josephine.

I love the boats and the "Jammers" (the red bus fleet). Both give you an opportunity to rubber neck and see more than you would riding or driving (that whole trying not to fall off a cliff thing again). Better yet, be sure to pack some hiking shoes and a canteen or camelback get out on foot for a while. There is a shuttle service now that will pick up hikers and return them to where they started:thumb

Montana
01-13-2009, 12:07 AM
:thumb And doing it that way, you're also a traffic lane away from the cliffs, which may be of some benefit if you, uh, hit a corner hot.Ha ha ha! Until you cross over Logan Pass. Then you're on the outside again. Especially after the Big Loop:

http://www.chromeheads.org/discus/messages/8/76349.jpg

It was still smoldering, that fall.

rinty
01-13-2009, 08:44 AM
True, but the West side is a gentler, kinder, place. :D

Sanders
01-15-2009, 05:10 PM
Browning is a ghetto in my opinion. Beautiful vistas on the approach, but the closer you get the more boarded up public buildings (schools, churches) you'll see. I (we) made a wrong turn in town and one block off the highway, I say again...one block off of the highway, I observed two burned automobile hulks and numerous homes (still lived in) with boarded up windows, glass scattered across the street along with regular old garbage strewn about.
1 block away...
My buddy pre warned me about staying in Browning, good thing he did. While perusing a map its the logical place to overnight in preparation for a shot into Glacier NP

Manifest Destiny. We hosed 'em (reparations would never be enough)

nyfty
01-18-2009, 11:26 PM
I really appreciate the input. You've confirmed my concerns about passing through Browning.

Plainsscout
01-19-2009, 07:54 PM
Unfortunately every thing that was said about Browning is true.

My last trip that way included a pedal bike tour stretched out for miles with their support vehicle an open box pickup hauling all the luggage. I samsonite suitcase bounced out of the truck struck the road in front of me went airborne and was head level as it zoomed by me and between me and my son who was riding on a bike about 30 yards back in the other tire lane. Missed Dave who we had picked up along the way (lost Beemer rider from MI).

We all stopped in the next town and got on our knees and thanked Jesus for not killing us with a samsonite suitcase on an Indian reservation.

Adventures of the open and crowded road.

108625
01-20-2009, 08:57 PM
We all stopped in the next town and got on our knees and thanked Jesus for not killing us with a samsonite suitcase on an Indian reservation.

Is getting killed by a suitcase on an indian reservation somehow worse than getting killed by a suitcase somewhere else?

I will say this about Browning, my wife's bike broke down there, just outside of town at the junction of Highways 2 and 87. She called a local tow service, who responded promptly (about ten minutes) and brought a tilt bed with a winch to load the bike properly. We had reservations made west of the park and didn't want our weekend ruined, so they stored the bike indoors on a word and a handshake until I could come back to pick it up with my truck three days later. Total bill: $92. And they helped me load the bike on my truck.
I'm sure there are a few MOA members who would have appreciated service so good in non-"ghettos".

If you explore a little bit, you'll find the Museum of the Plains Indian there, and some fantastic Bob Scriver sculptures in the old mercantile.

Montana
01-20-2009, 09:45 PM
They have the best July 4th pow-wow in the region, if that is what you are looking to attend.

Plainsscout
01-20-2009, 10:10 PM
"Is getting killed by a suitcase on an indian reservation somehow worse than getting killed by a suitcase somewhere else?"


No I just thought it would be ironic. Especially if it were a samsonite suitcase.

Was not meant as a slur and if you took it that way ---- you are way too sensitive. :violin

I live within six miles of and Indian reservation and grew up here. Have a bus load of Natives who are good friends. Don't attempt to label someone until you know them.

:thumb

108625
01-20-2009, 10:39 PM
I was commenting on the getting killed part, as in: dead is dead, regardless of location.

PGlaves
01-20-2009, 11:13 PM
Is getting killed by a suitcase on an indian reservation somehow worse than getting killed by a suitcase somewhere else?



Not for the deceased, but yes for the family. The Bureau of Indian Affairs and FBI will treat it like a Federal case - because it is a federal case. I suspect the paperwork would be horrendous.

Same goes in a National Park so don't get hit by a Samsonite in Glacier either - that would be my advice.

Plainsscout
01-21-2009, 10:00 PM
Dead is dead, but I think I would rather have my grand children say he was eaten by a bear in Glacier Park than say, a suitcase flew out of the back of a pickup and took him out.

Dead is dead. But then there is the legend that lives on with those that follow.

:burnout

gs100bert
01-21-2009, 11:31 PM
all good info i live 60 km north of the us border and going to the sun highway is a favorite day ride of mine . i did end up in browning once typical reserve i remember a burned out broken jeep in every other yard always wanted to go back and look for parts but have not .

rinty
01-22-2009, 10:38 AM
Over the years, I've learned to trust my instincts, and when I'm standing at the pump there, filling up a German flashbike, I can feel the stares.

I'm also advised by the locals to be very careful which bars to go into.

getset
03-11-2009, 07:25 PM
I would also recomend staying at Johnson's campground. You will be up on a little hill so you can overlook the valley in some places. The KOA is also a nice spot. Make sure you get there before 9:00 so you can have dinner at the best restaurant anywhere in GNP St. Mary's Cafe. Just across Hwy 2 from Johnson's. Best Pie anywhere in the world. You will have to wait in line, as it is become a little famous.