View Full Version : Larger alternator an option?
CTellman
11-29-2008, 09:53 AM
My '93 R100RT is a great bike and I am very happy to own it. It is the nicest and prettiest of the four BMWs I have had.
My voltmeter usually reads 13.25 volts. I don't us the heated grips but if I turn them on, the meter can't reach 13 v. I would like to add a couple of road lights but I don't think there is enough electricity available from the standard alternator.
Is the an upgrade alternator available? Does it require other changes like regulators or relays? Finally, what about cost? Any experience out there in cyberspace?
Happy Holidays!
Campbell Tellman II
'93 R100RT
20774
11-29-2008, 10:09 AM
First, what is the voltage measured at the battery terminals as opposed to the bike's voltmeter? You'll probably find it on the order of 0.5v higher at the battery. Nearer 14v is more of an ideal situation. You could try cleaning all the appropriate connects to improve the battery charging voltage.
Even still, if you want to run other electrical items, the stock system will be marginal pretty quick. There are certainly options. Rick at Motorrad Electrik sells one...it's the Omega system.
http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm
Another system is the Enduralast. Several places sell both systems. Here's another:
http://www.beemershop.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=64&osCsid=ed78cdd435800c6a60ebb2f1a7f77f62
Sources for comparisons and information can be found at:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/AftrMrktAlt.htm
Also, search this forum...there's been many discussions about just this topic with people weighing in on their experiences.
DSBMW1
11-29-2008, 05:10 PM
I really like the omega. It seems to install easier than the enduralast
I went with the whole deal, alternator, diode board and regulator from Rick at Motorrad Elektrik. We plugged in two heated jackets this fall and the voltage did not drop. NICE!
I do not like the idea of an alternator that puts out FULL current ALL the time and dumps the excess to ground. To much power generated that just turns to heat that is likely to cause problems. But, this is just an electrician's and technician's point of view.
ant0n10
11-30-2008, 01:54 PM
Are you saying this is what the Enduralast does (dump "excess" into heat)?
beemerguru
11-30-2008, 02:41 PM
My little kit I import from Australia doesn't heat a thing except the heated grips, light the 2 sets of driving lights, the GPS and 2 Gerbing Jackets..and the occasional microwave.
So if 800 watts doesn't heat up the airhead, how can the others unless they're installed wrong and not grounded properly?
Never heard a complaint about heat before. Which part of Ohm's Law are you breaking ;-)
04R1150RS
11-30-2008, 02:52 PM
The enduralast takes longer to install, that's for sure, plus the extra wires you have to run.Easy to wire though. But it is about $100 cheaper and charges more at a lower RPM than the omega, not to mention no brushes and windings for the rotor. One bad thing not plug and play.
The enduralast whines a little and then you have to mount the regulator somewhere.
shire2000
12-01-2008, 10:37 AM
I went with the Enduralast for a few reasons. I like the idea of not having any brushes to replace, ever again. also like the idea of getting rid of the Diode board. Mounting the new regulator was a snap, unbolt old one and bolt the new, slightly larger one in place under the tank. Wiring was very simple and straight forward.
Now I have all the power I will ever need, and a reliable system that is actually quite similar to most automobiles made in the past 30 years. I haven't seen an exposed diode board in a car, like forever. Most cars have the regulator as a part of the alternator, but some did and still have a separate regulator.
Heat dissapation is not an issue. My bike is a 1981 R100RT, with lowers attached. I do not find any extra heat coming from under the tank. The engine makes way more than the regulator does. In fact, right after I installed the unit I took the bike out for a long freeway run. When I stopped, I was able to reach up under my tank and place my bare hand on the regulator. Not even uncomfortably hot.
Plus, the guys at Enduralast are excellent to deal with.
jbcollier
12-01-2008, 05:49 PM
I went with Greg's 800 watt kit and I have been absolutely delighted. I can run three vests, heated grips and auxiliary lights all without a worry and still have 14v at 1800 rpm.
AnnapolisAirhead
12-01-2008, 07:44 PM
I went with Greg's 800 watt kit and I have been absolutely delighted. I can run three vests, heated grips and auxiliary lights all without a worry and still have 14v at 1800 rpm.
Wow, you ride 3-up? Why three vests? :stick
Where can I find more info on the 800watt kit? So far, I've only seen Motoelektrik, EnDuralast and MotoIsreal.
keelerb
12-01-2008, 08:16 PM
I'm surprised by the comments about the Enduralast being more difficult or complex to install than the Omega. I've read the instructions for each, plus a few online "tutorials," and it seems to me the opposite is the case? (But I have no firsthand knowledge.)
80/85W H4 bulb + Gerbings heated jacket liner and gloves seem to be a bit more than my stock alternator can keep up with, so I'm eying them both....
tghsmith
12-02-2008, 08:36 AM
the longest part of installing the enduralast is removing the old stuff, diode board, volt reg, rotor, windings and brushes. the best part of installing the enduralast is not reinstalling all that stuff!!!!
keelerb
12-02-2008, 11:53 AM
So I understand - and you have to do the same with the Omega, so what makes that easier?
tghsmith
12-02-2008, 12:25 PM
you don't put all the weak points(remade or not) back in.... works great , exspecially if commuting daily on the bike..
AnnapolisAirhead
12-02-2008, 05:55 PM
Installation of any of these solutions isn't REALLY hard, relatively speaking. Imagine having to do the same on an older Goldwing--a fine machine for sure, but what a nightmare. Even my old CB750K wouldn't have been fun.
From what I understand the Omega upgrade's advantages are swap out of old part, swap in of new parts. You'd have to deal with the brushes and that little PIA soldering part, but all in all pretty simple.
The EnDuralast just requires a bit more reading of the wiring since you are effectively removing the old diode board. No brushes to solder. As I understand it, the rectifier and regulator are in a single component mounted outside of the front engine cover (like where the OEM regulator mounts or inside the left side cover, etc. out of water spray). So the time you saved by NOT having to solder the brushes to the new Omega stator, you can use to read and re-read the wiring instructions. I read them, and I'm no expert on electrics, but they made perfect sense to me.
Either one provides a good time to clean up starter and starter relay connections (amongst others).
We've got it easy. I can't tell if I like tinkering and learning as much as I do riding.
So...whats the 800w kit link? Anyone?
:brow
The_Veg
12-02-2008, 09:34 PM
So...whats the 800w kit link? Anyone?
:brow
Contact Greg directly.
boxerr
12-02-2008, 11:10 PM
"contact Greg directly"
I have, and no reply. Is he away??
The_Veg
12-03-2008, 11:32 AM
You can find his contact info in the Ambassadors section of the Anonymous Book, listed under California.
35303
12-03-2008, 12:47 PM
Here is the 800 watt link.
http://www.geocities.com/jimmywanger/alternator.html
I have the Enduralast kit which I recommend.
keelerb
12-03-2008, 10:06 PM
Engine case alterations??? 800W???
I think the Enduralast will do me fine, thanks! Only wish I was sending the business to Rick at Motorrad Electrik. (Rick - add the enduralast to your offerings, please!)
AnnapolisAirhead
12-04-2008, 07:04 AM
Engine case alterations??? 800W???
I think the Enduralast will do me fine, thanks! Only wish I was sending the business to Rick at Motorrad Electrik. (Rick - add the enduralast to your offerings, please!)
+1. I guess I could plug in a coffee pot, a hair dryer and a toaster...er, otherwise, I'm making do with what I have. I lust for the Omega or EnDuralast, but don't have a real serious need right now to justify the $400-600. I agree with Keelrb though, would be nice to get rid of brushes and diode board AND send biz Ricks way if he'd sell EnDuralasts.
jbcollier
12-04-2008, 04:07 PM
I have three vests running because its a sidecar rig. I am also adding another headlight!
beemerguru
12-05-2008, 11:57 AM
This topic comes up every couple years. Like I state, the kit I bring in from Australia is for the .001% of the market. The Omega and Edurlast meet almost everyone's needs. This kit is at the extreme end of the market.
You have to modify the timing cover, front cover and top engine cover. Total 20 minutes with a band saw. You have to drill and tap one hole in the engine case. 15 minutes. And it's so much easier with the engine out so if you're doing a rebuild, perfect time.
What you get rid of is the rotor, diode board, stator, and VR. What you get is an industrial strenght Bosche alternator mounted in a CNC aluminum casing complete with the drive pulley, brackets, and rectifier ready to mount.
The only spare part I carry now is a $5 V belt you can get from any automotive store.
No problems with element exposure..same situation as the alternator on your F150..hanging off the engine behind the radiator is the only protection it gets and they last 100's of K of miles. Same here.
But to me the ability to handle all the electrical options you want and know the battery won't die riding in stop and go traffic is worth the "buck a watt" price.
beemerguru
12-05-2008, 12:07 PM
sorry, work got in the way of replying. Too many projects and not enough time lately ;-(
ghutchin@pacbell.net for more pictures and details.
Polarbear
12-06-2008, 08:04 AM
Greg does nice work and I have known him for years as an aquaintance at rallies, etcetc., over the years. He has quite the invention, in his alternator rigs and they look first rate. I use the Omega in my R100/7 because a friend had done his before me and I liked the bolt in, simple stock looking proceedure. My Omega is perfect and very well done. Greg has a "very nice" alternative, unmatched by anybody for the old bikes, producing juice as many autos do:). Kind of like all the new BMW R bikes, in his belt driven system. If you want lights and lights and a lot of juice left over for whatever else, the Greg Built units are the perfect solution. I've seen guys that need it on their bikes. Multiple everything plugged in! Happy Trails, Randy:thumb
The_Veg
12-06-2008, 10:05 AM
I'll vouch for Greg too. I've met him at some rallies and he's truly a good guy. I saw the bike too; and his setup is very well thought-out and put together.
keelerb
01-28-2009, 04:12 PM
I ended up installing an EnduraLast, and I like it - a lot. In-dash voltmeter reads a volt or two higher, and the battery tender goes to "85% charged" indicator after 15 minutes, and full charge after an hour, as opposed to taking overnight (after a several hour ride with 85W headlight and Gerbings jacket liner and gloves on).
criminaldesign
01-28-2009, 04:57 PM
Just installed the omega. Took a couple of hours for the whole procedure, the longest bit of time was messing with the 4 mounts. Tight spots. Time for lights! The brushes that were on the bike were in great shape by the way.
keelerb
02-07-2009, 08:49 PM
My hat's off to Criminaldesign and others who have done diode board replacements. I did the Enduralast, and left the fricking diode board mounts in there rather than try to get them out. My god, who designed those bolts AND HOW SMALL WERE HIS/HER HANDS??@?@??@
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.