Koni shocks...where is the rebound adjust?

[kheerema]

Hi everybody,

I just did a front end overhaul on my 90/6 that included steering bearings, all new internal fork urethane? bushings, fork seals, progressive springs, 9oz. of 10wt fork oil (from Harley dealership : ) in each fork tube and some other things. I also added a nifty Telefix fork brace.

I am very happy with the results. Ride seems very compliant over short quick bumps but no major "dive" under braking. I had so much preload dialed in previously to stop the dive that the front end was a littel too harsh. It seems to be a good compromise now, just what I was looking for.

I also had a slight 70mph highway "weave" that I think I may have solved as well but further testing will be needed to completely verify.

My question is this: I have Koni rear shocks that were on the bike when I bought it. I am hoping I do not have to spend the $$$ to replace them. From what I've read these shocks are preload AND rebound adjustable? Or am I wrong? Maybe I'm not seeing the adjuster, but I just don't see anywhere to adjust the rebound. Back "in the day", did Koni make shocks for this bike that were not rebound adjustable?

The Koni's are great with a passenger and/or luggage, but solo riding they seem a little harsh. I was hoping to see if I could adjust them rather than replace them. I'm hoping I am just not seeing where the adjuster is. Any thoughts?

[20774]

Kevin -

On my Konis, 7610P (IIRC), there's a small wheel on the top of the shock, possibly under a cover or something. Unfortunately for me, I think access to that is on the inside and hard to get to. That allows some adjustments. Preload is adjusted by turning the bottom portion against the spring using the special wrench that was provided.

Ikon basically makes these shocks now...here's their website for the 7610 series...

http://www.ikonsuspension.com/content/product_ranges/7610_series_shocks.shtml

Here's the page on adjustments:

http://www.ikonsuspension.com/content/shock_fitting_and_adjustment.shtml

[kheerema]

Kurt,

Cool, thanks for that link and the information. I bet the adjuster is on the inside, I don't remember seeing it on the outside of the shock body. I'll have to take a look to see if i can get in there without having to take the rear fender/wheel off. I know that is not too much fun!

Thanks for the heads up!!! :bow :D

[Bill Burke]

On my 7610's, the rebound adjust is a spin wheel sort of hidden at the top of the shock, as Kurt suggests above. I also understand it to be true that some Koni's had a rebound adjust and some didn't.

[Polarbear]

I have them too and the cheapie Koni's had NO adjust for the rebound, but most folks bought the better ones with the adjust and its under a rubber cap on TOP of the shock. They are great shocks, lasting a very long time and not made under the Koni name anymore. I forgot who has the shock nowadays, but they are still made(I Think), under another name. The rubber cap hides a black plastic wheel, numbered 1 thru 4, white numbers:). My number 4 is still very stiff, after around 20+ years of use. I'm over 330000 miles on my R100/7 and put the Koni's on so long ago, I forgot the year. They sure are great shocks. Randy:D

[GregFeeler]

I have them too and the cheapie Koni's had NO adjust for the rebound, but most folks bought the better ones with the adjust and its under a rubber cap on TOP of the shock. They are great shocks, lasting a very long time and not made under the Koni name anymore. I forgot who has the shock nowadays, but they are still made(I Think), under another name. The rubber cap hides a black plastic wheel, numbered 1 thru 4, white numbers:). My number 4 is still very stiff, after around 20+ years of use. I'm over 330000 miles on my R100/7 and put the Koni's on so long ago, I forgot the year. They sure are great shocks. Randy:D

IKON: http://www.ikonsuspension.com/ They seem hard to find and get prices for.

[26667]

I got mine from Bench Mark Works a couple years ago. Best price of the few I checked.

[lkchris]

Switch the shocks from side to side if the adjuster wheel is on the inside. Or, just turn them around.

[sbosbach141157]

Kevin,
I also have an R80RT with the same handling issues. I think it might be worthwhile to compare notes and see what works and what doesn't. I also have Koni's on the rear and it looks like they are non adjustable for damping. I have done just about everything except the head bearing, but so far have not seen any sign of notchiness or tightness in the bearing.
I'd also like to compare notes on the engine timing and smoothness issues I'm having. Let's try to get together and get this handling issue figured out.
Steve in Oak Hill
sbosbachataustindotrrdotcom

[kheerema]

I removed one yesterday to examine it up close and inspect. There is no rubber cover, no rebound adjust wheel on either end shock perch. I guess, as someone mentioned, that Koni did make a "cheapie" non-rebound adjust shock, and thats just whats on my steed. I couldn't identify a serial make or model # from looking at the really really tiny ingravings on the shock body, but it was made in Holland. I guess when you ride with wooden shoes, there is no need for rebound adjustments. Just kidding! (I am Dutch, I am allowed to make fun of them).

At any case, I will have to start looking for a new shock set this set this Spring after Christmas credit cards are paid off.

sbosbach141157- I too didn't notice any discernable notchyness or tightness in my steering bearings. I even removed the head stock, regreased, and re set the preload but I still had a side to side weave at highway speed. I tried everything, checked subframe bolt torque, changed fork spring preload, fork oil weights, tire psi, everything including other stuff recommended to me by BMWMOA folks, but it wasn't until I installed new OEM steering bearings, progressive springs, and a Telefix fork brace was I able to get rid of the weave. I attacked the problem using the "replace and upgrade everything approach" because the handling was seriously pissing me off and once I don't want to have to tear down the front end again anytime soon :scratch Only problem is I'm not exactly sure which corrective measure is most responsible for getting rid of my issue, but I do suspect the bearings had something to do with it. I'll PM my phone # to you and we can chat.

Today was the test ride into work, and so far I am not clinging so hard to the bike at 65-75 because the bike is actually going straight. Lane changing over lane reflectors, paint strips, and "tar snakes" don't seem to affect the tracking of the bike like it used to.