What about too much oil?

[DJACKSON141302]

This is going to sound really stupid, but I did some single-track riding on my '78 R100/7. The jostling seemed to annoy the oil sensor, because I soon saw the oil light flicker. I added oil, then continued on some fire roads and up another rough climb, the bike bouncing a lot. Again, the flickering oil light. By then it was dark, and when I checked the oil, it looked like I was again low. Not wanting to stint on oil, I added more. After another 40 miles at moderate speeds I was able to check the oil in a well lit parking lot, and discovered to my horror that I had overfilled.

Other than smelling a bit oilier than normal, there are no symptoms of trouble. Can anyone hazard a guess as to whether I've mucked things up?

Thanks,

-Doug

[shire2000]

I think you probably did no damage. Just drain out the oil and refill to proper level. The bouncing around on the trails probably moved enough oil around into areas where the pickup could not reach enough and possibly some foaming of the oil due to the bouncing. You ran with lower pressure for short periods. This can cause issues, especially if not using quality oil. A true fix would be to get a different oil pan with better baffling in it, which would cause the oil to not slop around so much.

always use top quality SG rated oil in your airhead.

[26667]

If I recall correctly, many years back I overfilled my wife's R65 by a quart. Took it to a dealer some time after and I believe he said that some of the excess had been pushed into the final drive and onto the brake shoes. Both dangerous and costly. Hope that's not the case w yours.

my memory may be faulty here, but I bet someone will correct me if that's not possible

[ccolwell]

Just because I did this once and overfilled the oil -- are you sure it wasn't the generator light coming on at low revs?

[20774]

If I recall correctly, many years back I overfilled my wife's R65 by a quart. Took it to a dealer some time after and I believe he said that some of the excess had been pushed into the final drive and onto the brake shoes.

Overfilled the engine by a quart? And how did the engine oil get back to the final drive and brakes? On my bike, this is not possible unless the oil comes out the bottom of the pan and soaks the entire back end of the bike.

[nealart]

It's pretty easy to back out the plug just to where it is at the last thread and then tip it up and let a little stream of oil out in a pan.

If you don't let go of the plug, you can screw it right back in without draining all the oil.

[shire2000]

If I recall correctly, many years back I overfilled my wife's R65 by a quart. Took it to a dealer some time after and I believe he said that some of the excess had been pushed into the final drive and onto the brake shoes.

That sounds like a really difficult thing to do. Did it travel along the output shaft, past the clutch (without contaminating the clutch), thru the Transmission, then down the driveshaft to the differential? Me thinks mechanic was looking for more money.

[RJM2096]

That sounds like a really difficult thing to do. Did it travel along the output shaft, past the clutch (without contaminating the clutch), thru the Transmission, then down the driveshaft to the differential? Me thinks mechanic was looking for more money.

It also sounds fishy to me.

[swall]

A flickering oil light could be indicative of oil leaking past the filter . You need to check the oil filter assembly to make sure the big o-ring is not cut, you have the shim to protect the big o-ring , you have a round seal on each side of the filter and you do not have a paper gasket under the aluminum cover. This should be checked ASAP. Potential big trouble, big expense.

[DJACKSON141302]

Thanks to all for such great feedback. To clarify, it really is the oil light, as the bike burns a bit of oil and I got familiar with the difference between the red charging light and the orange oil light very quickly. And, because it burns oil, most of the excess is gone and the bike is running well, so I think I'm okay. I did check the oil filter assembly and everything was fine there, too.

I've got a question about oil burning, but I'll start a separate thread for that. Thanks again!

[jforgo]

In ON a couple months ago - about the oil filter can to side casing clearance. You have a1978, and were thrashing it about, so this may well apply to your bike. You might wanty to verify how this is on your bike. You can buy the white filter O-rings separately.

[skiteach]

Oil burning occurs 2 ways (usually) rings or valve seals/worn guides. Breather issues can also lead to some.

[26667]

Overfilled the engine by a quart? And how did the engine oil get back to the final drive and brakes? On my bike, this is not possible unless the oil comes out the bottom of the pan and soaks the entire back end of the bike.

Yeah, well there's your old-guy memory. it didn't make much sense to me when I typed it either, but it's the way I remembered it. Back in the day, I didn't change my own final drive oil, only the crank case. Maybe it was the shop. But lever-the- ness, somehow a bunch of oil got on the rear brakes.

[DJACKSON141302]

The bike (allegedly) has only 35,000 original miles on it, and burns as much as a quart every 600 miles. The engine runs like a top and it has plenty of power. I was told by the previous owner that the original buyer brought it over from Europe and had the valves "reground" for US gasoline.

My theory is that with this mileage, it must have sat for a while and that perhaps that caused the rings to go bad. My mechanic is recommending a top end job, but I'm thinking that's overkill until we get into the engine and see what's actually going on. Any thoughts?

[sumran]

The bike (allegedly) has only 35,000 original miles on it, and burns as much as a quart every 600 miles. The engine runs like a top and it has plenty of power. I was told by the previous owner that the original buyer brought it over from Europe and had the valves "reground" for US gasoline.

My theory is that with this mileage, it must have sat for a while and that perhaps that caused the rings to go bad. My mechanic is recommending a top end job, but I'm thinking that's overkill until we get into the engine and see what's actually going on. Any thoughts?

How much oil is leaking out? That is too much consumption for a healthy engine. A leakdown test would reveal if you have top end problems and where.
I would also check the breather valve. My consumption has dropped since I replaced a defective one. And my carbs work better on straight gas rather than the gas /oil mix they were getting with the defective valve.:D

[vanzen]

my thoughts, for what they're worth:

A quart low should never be a problem.

A quart extra, on the other hand, and crankcase pressures rise.
At best, the extra oil will be spewed out the crank breather.
Worst case scenario – the possibility of blowing seals (esp front cam, rear main) will become a reality.
A short run with excess oil is not likely to do any damage,
but this will depend on speed, and rates of acceleration.

Usually:
Oil migrating to the shaft, as evidenced by excess oil in the shaft, can be attributed to a trans output seal gone bad.
Leakage in the area of the shaft / FD connection due to gasket failure.
Leakage at the rear wheel due to FD seal failure.
And leakage at the FD breather due to pressure caused by expansion / heating of the FD lube, incorrect viscosity for conditions, or overfilling.
but then that would be gear-lube, not engine oil ...

a quart in 600 miles is excessive ... if it's not dripping out, time to do a leakdown and find out where it's goin' ...

[Polarbear]

Since 1978, when I bought my R100/7 brand new(February that year), it has used oil at the rate of about half a quart every thousand miles. Sometimes a little more or less, depending on how fast I ride it. The oil comsumption never quit from new and I live with it still, after 330000 miles it still runs very strong. I do add to my gas, a valve(fake lead additive) to keep my valves happy nowadays, but just started this practice a year ago. Yep, its all original stuff in this motor, except larger pistons at 104000 a long time ago. What a motor! Nothing else has been changed in that thing. I run 2 and a half quarts of oil, which is slightly above the fill mark on the stick and she is happy. To this day, a very quiet motor and I ride it far and wide. 2006, a 10000 loop across Canada to NS and back home and the old bike never felt better. I have a brand new one sitting in the garage, too, but cannot dismiss the old bike when the urge comes to ride far. It still performs with the best of the best. Randy:D :ca :usa

[DJACKSON141302]

How much oil is leaking out? That is too much consumption for a healthy engine.:D

There aren't any leaks - it's all burn-off, and I'm told the most conspicuous amounts of blue smoke occur when I accelerate. When I shared the consumption figure with one mechanic, he advised me to shop for another bike with a good engine and swap it out. I found that kind of disappointing, since the current engine has loads of power. I'll work toward the leakdown test/respirator valve approach - thanks!

[sumran]

There aren't any leaks - it's all burn-off, and I'm told the most conspicuous amounts of blue smoke occur when I accelerate. When I shared the consumption figure with one mechanic, he advised me to shop for another bike with a good engine and swap it out. I found that kind of disappointing, since the current engine has loads of power. I'll work toward the leakdown test/respirator valve approach - thanks!

The bike may need a top end but you don't need a new motor. Doing the top end on your bike is not a big deal. Changing the motor is time consuming, expensive and creates registration issues. Oak's top end manual is very helpful from what I have been told. The job can be done in one day. I imagine you have some good airhead wrenches in your area. If you meet them and mention you are going to be doing the top end on your bike, they won't be able to resist yur garage.:D

If you find you need head work you will have to send those out. Choose an airhead expert and nail down the turn around time before you send them.