Bing Type 53 - Idle Adjustment

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I have a question about tuning type 53 slide type Bings. Now that I got the bike running, I need to get it to hold idle so I can check timing, etc. unless I keep on the throttle to about 1500 rpm. Granted it hasn't run in years and I just rebuilt the carbs but I was hoping it'd at least idle after being warmed up (no choke on this model, R60/5). How does the larger, idle screw work? In is faster idle? It doesn't seem to make a difference.

I set the idle mixture screw to the setting in the Bing book (1/2 turn out).

Also, I have the cable barrels adjusted as far down as I can--should adjust those to hold idle and then fine tune the idle screw or the other way around?

Thanks in advance.

[PMonk]

I assume you are talking about the idle adjusting screw which is the large screw that adjusts the throttle stop right?

turning out counterclockwise should slow it down.

then adjust your idle air screw to fine tune.

Mine is happiest a a little more than one turn out. It doesn't take much to cause the idle to increase or decrease. I turned mine in until it starts to slow, then out to get max rpm, past that until rpm starts to drop again and set in the middle.

then you go back to the idle stop screw again.

I just put my twinmax up after raising my needle back to the second notch.
It seems happiest there.

PS cut a piece of old tire (tyre if continental) to grip needle to make adjustments
on the needle, don't use pliers.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I assume you are talking about the idle adjusting screw which is the large screw that adjusts the throttle stop right? Yes.



turning out counterclockwise should slow it down.

then adjust your idle air screw to fine tune.
On my other bike, I set the idle air mixture screw first according to the Bing book recommendations, then on to the idle adjustment screw.


Mine is happiest a a little more than one turn out.You are referring to the big idle adjustment screw here, right?
[/QUOTE]

I just put my twinmax up after raising my needle back to the second notch.
It seems happiest there.
These are the Type 53 carbs, no vacuum port unless you install one--which I have not. A friend suggested the old VW snail device to balance them without vacuum ports.


PS cut a piece of old tire (tyre if continental) to grip needle to make adjustments on the needle, don't use pliers.Continentals indeed are on the bike currently (groaner intended) and agreed, pliers are not friendly to needles, but these are simple to put in to the correct notch. It fits into a washer of sorts, not the hidden spring clip of the Bing 32mm and 40mm CV type carbs. So in that sense, they are much simpler and you can see which notch is set.

Thanks for your help. :drink

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I assume you are talking about the idle adjusting screw which is the large screw that adjusts the throttle stop right? Yes.



turning out counterclockwise should slow it down.

then adjust your idle air screw to fine tune.
On my other bike, I set the idle air mixture screw first according to the Bing book recommendations, then on to the idle adjustment screw.


Mine is happiest a a little more than one turn out.You are referring to the big idle adjustment screw here, right?


I just put my twinmax up after raising my needle back to the second notch.
It seems happiest there.
These are the Type 53 carbs, no vacuum port unless you install one--which I have not. A friend suggested the old VW snail device to balance them without vacuum ports.


PS cut a piece of old tire (tyre if continental) to grip needle to make adjustments on the needle, don't use pliers.Continental tyres indeed are on the bike currently (groaner intended) and agreed, pliers are not friendly to needles, but these are simple to put in to the correct notch. It fits into a washer of sorts, not the hidden spring clip of the Bing 32mm and 40mm CV type carbs. So in that sense, they are much simpler and you can see which notch is set.

Thanks for your help. :drink

[20774]

I believe you'll want to iterate on the idle speed and mixture settings. When you make a change on one, it will affect the other. I'd start with the idle speed. Snowbum talks about the shorting method to find what speed each side will run at by itself. Once you get a reasonable balance left vs right, then try the idle mixture. In this case, you're turning the screw in until one side stumbles, then turning it out until it stumbles, and then returning to the approximate midpoint between these two. Repeat for the other side. Since these are slide carbs, I'm thinking that the idle screws adjust air and not gas as the CV carbs do. Once you find the approximate middle, I think you want to turn them CW a tad (maybe 1/8th turn) to make them slightly rich at idle. Then recheck the idle speed with the shorting method. Finally, move on to the cable tension adjustments which can also be done by shorting the spark.

[PMonk]

sorry about that, you obviously said 53 not 64.

my mistake

[kstoo]

A. Airhead,
This may be irrelevant or not but do you have the 53's with the cable operated enricher or the tickler type? The reason I ask is that I had a lot of trouble with my R60 carbs until I realized that there is supposed to be a rubber plug on the bottom of the enricher, without that plug the enricher is always on and obviously it is too rich until you open the carb up past the idle stage.

53 (http://www.bingcarburetor.com/bmw/53kits_files/Type%2053.pdf)

[AnnapolisAirhead]

A. Airhead,
This may be irrelevant or not but do you have the 53's with the cable operated enricher or the tickler type? The reason I ask is that I had a lot of trouble with my R60 carbs until I realized that there is supposed to be a rubber plug on the bottom of the enricher, without that plug the enricher is always on and obviously it is too rich until you open the carb up past the idle stage.

53 (http://www.bingcarburetor.com/bmw/53kits_files/Type%2053.pdf)
KSTOO: My carbs have the tickler, no enricher.


sorry about that, you obviously said 53 not 64.

my mistake
PMonk, no worries. I wish they WERE CV's...but this is more fun to learn something new. Anyway, it's always good to get input, our collective genius. It's what makes a forum a forum. :beer

I believe you'll want to iterate on the idle speed and mixture settings. When you make a change on one, it will affect the other. I'd start with the idle speed. Snowbum talks about the shorting method to find what speed each side will run at by itself. Once you get a reasonable balance left vs right, then try the idle mixture. In this case, you're turning the screw in until one side stumbles, then turning it out until it stumbles, and then returning to the approximate midpoint between these two. Repeat for the other side. Since these are slide carbs, I'm thinking that the idle screws adjust air and not gas as the CV carbs do. Once you find the approximate middle, I think you want to turn them CW a tad (maybe 1/8th turn) to make them slightly rich at idle. Then recheck the idle speed with the shorting method. Finally, move on to the cable tension adjustments which can also be done by shorting the spark.
Thank Kurt. Ok, so I need to iterate (not totally unlike the CV types), but I think I need to tighten up the cable barrels to at least get it to idle. I thought I could get away with total slack there and adjust the idle speed, but no luck so far. It could also be waaaay out of time and/or points fouled but seems to run ok at 1500RPM manually.

I haven't done anything yet, not until I finish Snowbum's articles (always a colorful read) on shorting. I've heard about it, but have never done it. Maybe I'll bring it up at the local barley therapy session this weekend and get a better understanding.

[rocketman]

KSTOO: My carbs have the tickler, no enricher.



PMonk, no worries. I wish they WERE CV's...but this is more fun to learn something new. Anyway, it's always good to get input, our collective genius. It's what makes a forum a forum. :beer


Thank Kurt. Ok, so I need to iterate (not totally unlike the CV types), but I think I need to tighten up the cable barrels to at least get it to idle. I thought I could get away with total slack there and adjust the idle speed, but no luck so far. It could also be waaaay out of time and/or points fouled but seems to run ok at 1500RPM manually.

I haven't done anything yet, not until I finish Snowbum's articles (always a colorful read) on shorting. I've heard about it, but have never done it. Maybe I'll bring it up at the local barley therapy session this weekend and get a better understanding.

The big idle screw is what should be used to set the idle, the cables should have some free play in them so that the slides both sit on the idle screw stop and that they are set so that both lift at the same time. The mixure screw is maybe not set right if the bike won't idle are between 900~1100 rpms when warm. Make sure the timing is set, points are good and valves adjusted, then do the carb work last, using the shorting method. You will probably find that after each side is set when both sides are running you will have make a final adjustment with the idle stop screw to get the rpm's down a bit. And since they don't have a choke getting it warned up and idling does take a few nimutes, I used to ride mine around the block once or twice to get it warm enough to idle smoothly. Don't set idle when cold or will go way up when warmed.

RM