Freeze plug replacement

[ironoxide]

OK, here's one to consider. My freeze plug located 1.25 inches behind the oil filter cavity on the bottom of the engine of my 04' 1150 RT is leaking. Time for a change. Anyone change one of these? If so, what advise can you share? i bought the spare, all at a cost of $ 0.51. I could apply hi temp RTV, but what fun is that!

[ragtoplvr]

How do you check the oil, that sounds like the sight glass location?

what size is freeze plug, about 1.5"

I am confused

[ironoxide]

How do you check the oil, that sounds like the sight glass location?

what size is freeze plug, about 1.5"

I am confused

Rag,

It's about 1/4" in diameter and it is located on the bottom of the engine case directly aft of the oil filter cavity about 1.25" back.

Thanks,

[bikerfish1100]

not looking at the bottom of my bike, so can't compare... but i can't think of a reason for a "freeze plug". in a car, a freeze plug is part of the anti-freeze cooling system- and we don't have that. you're not looking at the oil drain plug, are you? has a 7mm (+/-) hex insert in the center?

[ragtoplvr]

Rather than the RTV for things like this I prefer something like the Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker.

Another choice would be the 3 Bond BMW recommends.

As to what this is, I will look at my bike at lunch.

I wonder if it could be a repair of some sort.

I would have 4 quarts of you choice of oil handy just in case it all comes out.

Please do not list your choice of oil, we do not need a oil thread.

[ragtoplvr]

wow, there is a plug in that location. Must be access for some of the machine work inside the case.

I strongly suspect when you remove it all the oil will drain. If it does then drain on the center stand then put on side stand so the residual oil runs away.

Make sure you install it in the same direction with the open end facing down.

Use alcohol, gasket dissolve spray or spray carb cleaner to clean the bore without scratching. If you get any in the engine then when finished with the repair dump in a couple of quarts of cheap oil, rock around a bit and then drain to flush it out.

I would coat the bore with a thin coat of 3 bond, anaerobic sealant or good old hardening gasket lacquer

allow to dry as recommended on the package.

Then you can change the filter if close to a change or not, just refill and ride on.

Rod

[PGlaves]

That little plug goes up into either the sump or an oil galley - I can't tell which.

My first approach would be to take a drift that just fits into the plug and tap it more firmly into place. (An appropriate sized deep socket tapped with a small hammer would be a decent substitute for a real drift).

Otherwise, drain all oil - remove the old plug - be extremely careful not to nick the recess it goes into - and install a new plug. I would use Three Bond or Yamabond, or Permatex Ultra Gray spread lightly and evenly on the plug circumference as a sealant.

[osbornk]

not looking at the bottom of my bike, so can't compare... but i can't think of a reason for a "freeze plug". in a car, a freeze plug is part of the anti-freeze cooling system- and we don't have that. you're not looking at the oil drain plug, are you? has a 7mm (+/-) hex insert in the center?

A freeze plug is actually made due to the casting process. I think they became known as freeze plugs because it is the path of least resistance when the water freezes.

[ironoxide]

A freeze plug is actually made due to the casting process. I think they became known as freeze plugs because it is the path of least resistance when the water freezes.


Yes, I agree, but, That's what the BMW technician called it, a freeze plug. Perhaps Paul's suggestion is best, carefully remove the plug, apply Permatex and insert the new plug. My fear is that once I start there's no going back.

[ironoxide]

[QUOTE=ragtoplvr;380995]wow, there is a plug in that location. Must be access for some of the machine work inside the case.

I strongly suspect when you remove it all the oil will drain. If it does then drain on the center stand then put on side stand so the residual oil runs away.

Make sure you install it in the same direction with the open end facing down.

Use alcohol, gasket dissolve spray or spray carb cleaner to clean the bore without scratching. If you get any in the engine then when finished with the repair dump in a couple of quarts of cheap oil, rock around a bit and then drain to flush it out.

I would coat the bore with a thin coat of 3 bond, anaerobic sealant or good old hardening gasket lacquer

allow to dry as recommended on the package.




Then you can change the filter if close to a change or not, just refill and ride on.

Rag,

Thank you, That makes a lot of sense! To coat the bore, will Permatex do the trick?


TIA,

Bob

[ragtoplvr]

I have used Permatex aviation sealer on this sort of plug. "Theoretically", the plug will seal without anything so a little dab will do you. For this application I tend to like nasty messy sealers that that set up fairly firm, I would worry silicone would possibly lubricate the plug so it would fall out.

To pull it I would drill a hole in the center, thread in a screw and use that to pull straight out. Coat drill with grease as it starts to break thru and trap the chips.

Take your time and should be as simple as any repair, meaning 2 bruised fingers, one cut requiring bandages and another cut you will discover with the cleaning fluid. The bore is probably metric, I hope the plug you have is metric.

Rod

[ironoxide]

Many thanks to Rod and Paul (and all others) for their thoughtful advise. With my new found knowledge I'll give it a go. Rod, I bought the replacement plug from my local BMW dealer. it looks to be the same size.

Thanks again,
Bob

[ragtoplvr]

You said it cost $0.51 and I assumed it must be from someone other than BMW.

After all, it costs $0.50 for a crush washer. I would have expected it to cost at least $3.00 or so. My bad.

Rod