Very hard to perform rolling start!

[kerbse]

Hey all,

The other day I was asking about why my RS seems so draining to start. I think it may be the alternator. I'm getting a volt meter today to check. But, one thing that baffles me is when I perform a rolling start in 2nd gear i skidded about 5 feet before the engine turned and started. Near wipeout! I tried the same thing in 4th and it didn't skid but really bogged the engine in order for it to start. Any idea's?

[GSAddict]

Hey all,

The other day I was asking about why my RS seems so draining to start. I think it may be the alternator. I'm getting a volt meter today to check. But, one thing that baffles me is when I perform a rolling start in 2nd gear i skidded about 5 feet before the engine turned and started. Near wipeout! I tried the same thing in 4th and it didn't skid but really bogged the engine in order for it to start. Any idea's?

It all really depends what the battery voltage is. The motronic needs a minimum voltage to activate (I am guessing 7 or 8v) You were probably on the threshold.

Gone are the days of the magneto's, points, CDI & carburetors. Everything needs power now. ECU, fuel pump, injectors etc. - all those have a minimum operating voltage and rely on the battery.

[kerbse]

Could my alternator be bad?

[GSAddict]

Could my alternator be bad?
Possibly, but the only way to tell is by checking the voltage at the battery when the machine is running 1700+ RPM - voltage should be 13.8 to 14.0 volts typically.
The alternators are very reliable and I would doubt that is the problem.
How old is the battery? You may want to have it load tested.

[kerbse]

Just bought the new battery. Just seems like it is try to pull so hard off the battery to get her started. The battery sounds like it's going dead when starting but it tests fine.

[ragtoplvr]

The alternator is not doing anything while you are starting, it will not self excite until engine RPM is over about 1200 Once it excites, it will charge at idle. These alternators are mostly reliable. Loose belt is more common failure

However you can buy a cheap voltmeter at walmart or something for under 10.00. Make sure it is set for DC volts or you will not see anything. I would remove the starter cover, it is easier than removing tupperware and you can ride with it off and no one would notice. Check while running at the starter, red lead on big bolt on solenoid and black lead on unpainted starter casting,You should see over 13 at idle and somewhere between 13 and 14. 5 at higher RPM. If you do then the alt is probably OK.

More likely is loose battery terminals or bad battery, for that you have to remove the tupperware.

If yours is pre 2000 or so, you could have loose magnets in the the starter, then the starter will be very inefficient and draw a lot if current and will fail very soon. That is much more common than bad alternator.

Rod

[kerbse]

Thanks guys, i'll try the volts and go from there.

[GSAddict]

If yours is pre 2000 or so, you could have loose magnets in the the starter, then the starter will be very inefficient and draw a lot if current and will fail very soon. That is much more common than bad alternator.

Rod

+1 on that

[osbornk]

If yours is pre 2000 or so, you could have loose magnets in the the starter, then the starter will be very inefficient and draw a lot if current and will fail very soon. That is much more common than bad alternator.Rod

It's not just the pre 2000 models. My friend had a 1994 GS that had the problem and he now has a 2004 GS with the same problem. I found him used starters at e-bay stores for $89.95 to $149.95 and $169.95 for new.

[RJM2096]

I agree with those thinking it is a starter.

Unfortunately, it also can be all of the above.

Once a battery, alternator, or starter start to fail the electrical system becomes overloaded and can damage other parts.

A weak battery makes the alternator over work and the starter draw too much amperage. A weak alternator can deplete a battery and also cause starter problems.

A weak starter can draw too much amperage and burn out batteries and alternators.

But a bad alternator does not keep a starter with a fully charged battery from cranking. Only the cables/connections, keyswitch, kickstand switch, or relay/selenoid can do that if the starter is OK.

Testing with a volmeter can tell you a lot. The hardest part is getting to all of the connections.

What you need to do is measure voltage drops across the various components.

Across the battery 14 sitting 9-10 cranking. If this shoots down to say 4-5 volts the battery is weak or the starter is real bad.

Across the starter motor 0 sitting 9-10 cranking If the cranking starter has less than the cranking battery, something is amiss. Check relays and connections as described below.

Acrross the relay/selenoid 14 sitting 0 cranking (if separate posts from starter). If the relay has voltage while cranking it is blocking power to the starter. (Now you must check switches that control the relay).

Battery connection, etc Attach one lead directly to the positive battery post and the other lead to the other end of the wirewire attached to the starter/selenoid. Youc an check the ground the same way. 0 Sitting 0-.25 cranking. If it shoots up during cranking, the connection or wire is bad.

[70783]

Could it be a little corrosion at the battery terminals? Try pulling the connections and shining them up with some sandpaper.

[kerbse]

Thanks all. Rob thanks for the specifics numbers at each point. At the battery seemed fine. I'm going to check the other points.