View Full Version : 1996 R 1100 R Valve adj?
grumpyone
10-16-2008, 10:43 AM
Morning folks;
We have a question on our R 1100 R 1996 about adjusting the valves.
First is there a good complete referal someone could refer us to?? Our clymer book is like :seen better info. We have adjusted lots of valves and are not afraid of the job just want to make sure there are no hidden steps we overlook. The airhead for ex adj the head torque.???
I read on one where you torque some of the bolts to a certain torque in the operation then Turn the bolt another 90 dg. I find this wierd to torque something then add so much turn after you have a measured torque already???
Also are the rocker play critical? adj to .05 mm then we see torque and then 180 dg. turn . ???? this is probally correct but lets say I want to make sure and I trust the guys here MUCH ! more than the clymer book.
Thanks for any direction in the issue.
Jim and Esther. :violin
MotorradMike
10-16-2008, 11:22 AM
I like www.largiader.com/tech/ohvalves/.
You might want to search and see what Paul Glaves has to say.
bikerfish1100
10-16-2008, 11:30 AM
and here: http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml
bmwmick
10-16-2008, 12:53 PM
Morning folks;
We have a question on our R 1100 R 1996 about adjusting the valves.
First is there a good complete referal someone could refer us to?? Our clymer book is like :seen better info. We have adjusted lots of valves and are not afraid of the job just want to make sure there are no hidden steps we overlook. The airhead for ex adj the head torque.???
I read on one where you torque some of the bolts to a certain torque in the operation then Turn the bolt another 90 dg. I find this wierd to torque something then add so much turn after you have a measured torque already???
Also are the rocker play critical? adj to .05 mm then we see torque and then 180 dg. turn . ???? this is probally correct but lets say I want to make sure and I trust the guys here MUCH ! more than the clymer book.
Thanks for any direction in the issue.
Jim and Esther. :violin
You ONLY re-torque the head bolts (nuts actually) at the 600mi check. They should not need done again.
Angle torque is much more accurate than simply torquing them to a value.
The adjusters and the valve cover torque is 8Nm
grumpyone
10-16-2008, 01:04 PM
Mick; The article I think "you" wrote about the valves adj. Where you tighten the three trox and then the nut to I think without looking 15 lb and then 180 dg more . This nut or bolt you tighten that gets the 180 dg. extra is a head bolt or nut??? If so is it ok to tighten a headbolt alone without doing the others? I assume it is since you are reccomending it.?
This is where I got confused. :dunno
Thanks for all the help and great article too.
Jim and Esther
bmwmick
10-16-2008, 02:48 PM
Yes it's OK to do that one by itself. That is part of the rocker arm end clearance adjustment.
bmwmick
10-16-2008, 02:49 PM
Yes it's OK to do that one by itself. That is part of the rocker arm end clearance adjustment. I set mine to 0.002"
grumpyone
10-16-2008, 03:19 PM
Thanks Mick;
Will get it done .
Jim and Esther
maxscycle
10-16-2008, 07:42 PM
Angle torque is much more accurate than simply torquing them to a value.
Forgive please, how is angle torque "much more accurate" then simply torquing them to a valve. Let me explain my thought.......if I torque the head nuts on my 06 r12gs to the book spec of 20nm. Then 90 degree's. Then 90 degree's more.
If I used a direct reading dial torque wrench to make both the 90 degree turns. Lets say for instance the torque wrench reading is 50nm at that exact point.
Then why can't I simply set my clicker type torque wrench at 20nm, then 35 nm, then 50 nm and call it done.
Forgive please, it's the engineer in me. I don't see the difference.
max
bmwmick
10-16-2008, 08:08 PM
Forgive please, how is angle torque "much more accurate" then simply torquing them to a valve. Let me explain my thought.......if I torque the head nuts on my 06 r12gs to the book spec of 20nm. Then 90 degree's. Then 90 degree's more.
If I used a direct reading dial torque wrench to make both the 90 degree turns. Lets say for instance the torque wrench reading is 50nm at that exact point.
Then why can't I simply set my clicker type torque wrench at 20nm, then 35 nm, then 50 nm and call it done.
Forgive please, it's the engineer in me. I don't see the difference.
max
Lots of factors can cause erroneous readings when reading torque. Using the angle method, you set a low initial torque (15Nm) and then 180 degrees. This causes an exact amount of stretch in the bolt or stud to effect the clamping force required. No compensation for burrs or galled threads or damaged washers. The thread pitch is used to determine the exact stretch.
grumpyone
10-16-2008, 10:06 PM
Mick; Its real clear now : like mud :scratch : Actually it is clearer now.
What you are saying and it makes sense is you are getting to a starting point with the torque wrench. Then you are tightening an amount. Distance inward if you will. Where on a torque wrench you are only measuring an amount of force to get to some point not a given point or inward distance that is effected by several factors as you mentioned. Mud is great :thumb
Thanks for the help and explaining things
Jim and Esther
MotorradMike
10-17-2008, 06:51 AM
Lots of factors can cause erroneous readings when reading torque. Using the angle method, you set a low initial torque (15Nm) and then 180 degrees. This causes an exact amount of stretch in the bolt or stud to effect the clamping force required. No compensation for burrs or galled threads or damaged washers. The thread pitch is used to determine the exact stretch.
But Mick:
Now you are depending on the torque wrench to determine the starting point from which the bolt will be angle torqued. From my perspective, torquing is inexact at best. The mechanical guys at work always clean fasteners with alcohol to get all lubricant off before torquing them with a driver. These are usually small #4-40 or #2-56, maybe that's a different game.
Not arguing, just wondering.
I've stripped and broken a few things on purpose in scrap pieces just to see. I also torque off rusty exhaust bolts because it's often the easiest thing to do and I think I can feel when most bolts are tight enough. I always use the torque wrench on light and heavy torques though.
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